Peter Parfitt
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
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« on: June 12, 2012, 05:00 PM » |
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Hello Everyone I was introduced to Osmo Oils by Guy Ashley who used it on some gates that he was making. I asked him a few details and decided to buy some. It was really good and so I was rather cheeky and contacted Osmo to ask for some samples in order for me to have enough variety for a short video review. The review is now complete...
Most people are aware that I am an absolute Festool fan and now I have discovered another great company. Peter |
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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Festool USA does not pre-approve the contents of this website nor endorse the application or use of any Festool product in any way other than in the manner described in the Festool Instruction Manual. To reduce the risk of serious injury and/or damage to your Festool product, always read, understand and follow all warnings and instructions in your Festool product's Instruction Manual. Although Festool strives for accuracy in the website material, the website may contain inaccuracies. Festool makes no representations about the accuracy, reliability, completeness or timeliness of the material on this website or about the results to be obtained from using the website. Festool and its affiliates cannot be responsible for improper postings or your reliance on the website's material. Your use of any material contained on this website is entirely at your own risk. The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice.
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awdriven
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Feb 2009
Posts: 281
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« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2012, 05:48 PM » |
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I am curious how the Osmo products compare to the Surfix oils. They seem similar in a number of ways.
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woodguy7
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Location: wick, scotland Member Since: Apr 2009
Posts: 2403
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« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2012, 07:07 PM » |
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Been using the hard wax oil for a number of years. Must say, I have never looked into their other products ! I will now.
Thanks Peter.
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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Peter Parfitt
Magazine/Blog Author
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 964
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« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2012, 11:39 PM » |
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I am curious how the Osmo products compare to the Surfix oils. They seem similar in a number of ways.
I can't answer that question yet... I have seen a demo of the Surfix system and I was very impressed with the 'system' part in that it appeared to be so easy to use, store and transport. Obviously there are times when one might still need a brush or rag as the Surfix pad might be too awkward. I do have Surfix on my shopping list and will get some straight away if a job with 'Surfix' written on it comes along (I cannot just buy some as all these things have to pay their way). When I get some I will review it. In the meantime I will continue to use the Osmo Oils - they are excellent and compare well, price wise, with other 'top end' finishes. Peter |
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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John G
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Location: Herts, UK Member Since: Sep 2009
Posts: 66
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« Reply #4 on: June 13, 2012, 03:37 AM » |
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yes I used the Osmo Polyx 3063 (Matt) for the oak floor in the previous house (after sanding out the damage from children, grit and high heels)- Two coats and it looked superb and certainly lasted for a couple of years (we moved)
- a distinct advantage is that I was able to let in some additional boards and re-coat the area seamlessly
- sanding the floor to 240 was too fine! 240 granat + 2 coats + socks (outdoor shoes are now discouraged) are a dangerous combination
 - the only other comment about the Polyx was the vapour - you would want to have all the windows open...
I'm just about to try: - the Oak 425 Peter mentioned (in conjunction with the 4005 base coat) on a trailer I've just refurbished, which had rotted and rusted badly - will be interesting to so see how that copes with weather.
- the Osmo 7600 fence & garden stain - the cottage we have moved two has a great deal of creosoted fencing in need of TLC
Actually I would be very interested to see if the Osmo oils could be used with the Surfix, it was about 50sq.m. of flooring by hand and I could see the Surfix system being a lot easier. |
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TS55, MFT, OF1400, Domino, RO150, RTS400 and a race between a growing collection of clamps, guides etc and additional systainers...
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Peter Parfitt
Magazine/Blog Author
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 964
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« Reply #5 on: June 13, 2012, 04:06 AM » |
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John
Why not do a short video or post some pictures of your progress with the trailer?
Peter
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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woodie
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Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa Member Since: Nov 2011
Posts: 180
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« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2012, 10:31 AM » |
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I recently applied Osmo One Coat HS Plus on an outdoor table. It's only been on for a week, so I can't comment on the durability of the product. It looks great right now though  . |
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Tim Raleigh
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Location: Oakville Canada Member Since: Jan 2010
Posts: 1685
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« Reply #7 on: June 17, 2012, 01:13 PM » |
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Peter:
Thanks for your review. I purchased some Osmo oil for my outdoor teak furniture. I am getting tired of sanding and refinishing/coating after only one spring summer. I also picked up some hard wax finish to try on some projects.
Tim
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Peter Parfitt
Magazine/Blog Author
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 964
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« Reply #8 on: June 17, 2012, 01:30 PM » |
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Hi Tim
You will have seen what I used the Osmo for in the video - it is very impressive and I would not hesitate to recommend it. They are oil finish specialists and so one must expect them to get it right.
Just like Festool are power tool specialists - they get that bit right too.
Peter
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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Peter Parfitt
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 964
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« Reply #9 on: July 20, 2012, 02:53 AM » |
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ANYONE WHO HAS USED OSMO FOR OUTDOOR FURNITURE AND DOORS.....
There is a big project around the corner which is currently in negotiation and subject to contract and hence no details, sorry. The project centres on the treatment of solid wood benches (I think that they are oak but they could be Iroko or Idigbo) which are left out in all weathers 365 days a year. There may be a requirement to treat some external oak doors which are all probably nearly 100 years old and still in remarkable condition. The oak doors look as though they have been treated with some varnish at one point.
So HELP chaps and chappesses...
What are the very best Osmo products for the benches and for the oak doors? Please do not make a guess if you have not used a particular product yourself. Also, Osmo is the manufacturer that the client wants after independent research (not me) so no Surfix suggestions!
Many thanks.
Peter
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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John G
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Location: Herts, UK Member Since: Sep 2009
Posts: 66
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« Reply #10 on: July 31, 2012, 07:11 PM » |
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John
Why not do a short video or post some pictures of your progress with the trailer?
Peter
Peter ok - we've just finished the metalwork, and I'm just about to start on the wood not so sure of my video skills, as yours... kind regards John |
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TS55, MFT, OF1400, Domino, RO150, RTS400 and a race between a growing collection of clamps, guides etc and additional systainers...
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Yeti fan 19
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Location: Worcs UK Member Since: Jul 2012
Posts: 21
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« Reply #11 on: August 01, 2012, 08:19 AM » |
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I use osmo uv-protection oil extra for all hardwood external Joinery. 2 coats of that is the most bomb proof coating that I have come across. Been using it for years and had no call backs from jobs
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woodguy7
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Location: wick, scotland Member Since: Apr 2009
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« Reply #12 on: August 01, 2012, 01:12 PM » |
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Yeti, that's good to know. How often does it need to be re coated ?
Cheers
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5203
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« Reply #13 on: August 01, 2012, 02:24 PM » |
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I have used Osmo for a long time good stuff! but I found its very very poor on Cedar which has not been weathered in yet even with this special Osmo which says its thinner made for Cedar for when your applying it to non weathered Cedar for Clients who cant wait! I found the Osmo never goes off it stays tacky and forms a little white skin on Cedar. Its fine if you leave the Cedar to weather for a good few months and apply the Osmo then but not all clients like the wait. I think it was this MonoCoat C2 (expensive) we used it works well on non weathered Cedar but the UV protection isnt Brilliant The OSMO UV protection works extremely well. I found the MonoCoat faded but the Osmo has still kept the colour. So I now make clients wait let the Cedar weathers before applying a finish to bring the colour back JMB |
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2012, 02:33 PM by jmbfestool »
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Yeti fan 19
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Location: Worcs UK Member Since: Jul 2012
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« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2012, 02:40 PM » |
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Woodguy, on the tin it says re coat after about 3-4 years. Though underneath there's a whole section on conditions that could shorten that time e.g.wood is exposed to a lot of sun / water is not able to drain away etc... I think as long as there is no water traps in the design of the Joinery then I think it is ok. I always say to customers re coat after about 5 years.
Been back to houses that I ve done doors or windows for ( mostly in oak and iroko)4 plus years later and the finish still looks pretty tidy, without any re coats.
I used to use Danish oil but over time come to the conclusion that it is not suitable for exterior finishing. I needs re coating every year to keep it workin right
Osmo is pricey but in the long run I think it's a more economical way to finish exterior wood
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Yeti fan 19
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Location: Worcs UK Member Since: Jul 2012
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« Reply #15 on: August 01, 2012, 02:54 PM » |
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Jmb, talkin of it staying tacky that is only downside of osmo. I made some iroko french doors about a month ago, coated them up in the work shop and they were still tacky 3 weeks later.  . Took them outside for a day a and they dryed straight away. I suppose it's to do with the air getting to it. |
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
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« Reply #16 on: August 01, 2012, 03:13 PM » |
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Jmb, talkin of it staying tacky that is only downside of osmo. I made some iroko french doors about a month ago, coated them up in the work shop and they were still tacky 3 weeks later. . Took them outside for a day a and they dryed straight away. I suppose it's to do with the air getting to it. No it stays tacky for weeks OUTSIDE and wont accept a second coat. I coated cedar shingles and I went onto the roof and slid right back down! To my surprise the Osmo was still sticky and slippery on foot. My mate made a Porch out of Cedar he coated it in Osmo 2 weeks later he came back and it was still tacky. So lesson one LEAVE cedar to weather or any other exotic wood well thats what ive learned from using osmo on Cedar to soon lol JMB |
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2012, 03:15 PM by jmbfestool »
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woodguy7
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Location: wick, scotland Member Since: Apr 2009
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« Reply #17 on: August 01, 2012, 03:28 PM » |
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Don't spose you have any videos of you sliding back down the roof   |
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5203
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« Reply #18 on: August 01, 2012, 03:36 PM » |
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Don't spose you have any videos of you sliding back down the roof lol sorry dude afraid not! JMB |
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Yeti fan 19
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Location: Worcs UK Member Since: Jul 2012
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« Reply #19 on: August 01, 2012, 04:19 PM » |
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Wow that is odd. Maybe it's got something to do with the cedar already having
preservative oil occurring naturally in the wood. This might be affecting the drying process of the osmo.
Just shows ya how much trial and error there is in wood finishing. That's handy to know about cedar though.
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jmbfestool
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« Reply #20 on: August 01, 2012, 04:27 PM » |
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Wow that is odd. Maybe it's got something to do with the cedar already having
preservative oil occurring naturally in the wood. This might be affecting the drying process of the osmo.
Just shows ya how much trial and error there is in wood finishing. That's handy to know about cedar though.
Yeah it is. I didn't know at the time but applying a finish to cedar is a lot easier if you leave it to weather for a a bit about 6 months or so, so it starts to turn grey then when you treat it it brings the colour back up like brand new. Live and learn! |
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« Last Edit: August 01, 2012, 04:29 PM by jmbfestool »
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Joseph C
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Location: Los Angeles, California Member Since: Jan 2008
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« Reply #21 on: March 21, 2013, 12:54 AM » |
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Wow that is odd. Maybe it's got something to do with the cedar already having
preservative oil occurring naturally in the wood. This might be affecting the drying process of the osmo.
Just shows ya how much trial and error there is in wood finishing. That's handy to know about cedar though.
JMBn - don/'t you wipe the oil off of wood surface to "dry" in 30-60 minutes? |
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TS75, OF1010, Domino500, MFT/3, CT22 + WCR, CT MIDI, RO150, ETS150, DS400, Grex 2" micropinner (festool green), and packing everything else into systainers, too.
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5203
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« Reply #22 on: March 21, 2013, 03:18 AM » |
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Wow that is odd. Maybe it's got something to do with the cedar already having
preservative oil occurring naturally in the wood. This might be affecting the drying process of the osmo.
Just shows ya how much trial and error there is in wood finishing. That's handy to know about cedar though.
JMBn - don/'t you wipe the oil off of wood surface to "dry" in 30-60 minutes? What you saying? The oils in the wood or wipe on wipe off with the osmo?? |
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Joseph C
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Location: Los Angeles, California Member Since: Jan 2008
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« Reply #23 on: March 21, 2013, 03:40 AM » |
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The Osmo
Most of the oils I use suggest wiping off all the wet excess after a period of time.
Once, when I was putting together a small deck, I waited too long to wipe off the oil, and the surface oil never cured - it was slick when I got back to it, and always tacky later. (Thank goodness that was the back of the boards!)
I've never used Osmo's exterior oil; when I've used their interior oil, I apply nearly "Dru" at the beginning, and still buff the excess within the hour.
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TS75, OF1010, Domino500, MFT/3, CT22 + WCR, CT MIDI, RO150, ETS150, DS400, Grex 2" micropinner (festool green), and packing everything else into systainers, too.
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jmbfestool
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Location: UK Member Since: Jan 2009
Posts: 5203
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« Reply #24 on: March 21, 2013, 03:47 AM » |
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Pretty sure osmo doesn't say to wipe it down. Just says use a brush roller or cloth to apply.
Not got a tin on me so can't check.
I never had a problem with Oak which is what I normally use osmo for or sheet material. (Birch ply, oak veneer)
The problem only came up when applied on cedar. I asked the dealer and they said osmo supply one for use on cedar but he said its basically normal osmo watered down. He said you use that if you want to treat cedar straight away but said best is to leave it to weather.
Jmb
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denovich
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA USA Member Since: Nov 2011
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« Reply #25 on: March 21, 2013, 10:32 AM » |
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We redid our oak floors with Osmo's Polyx hard wax oil about 3 years ago. Still looks amazing, minimal scratches, and no peeling, which is remarkable considering the movement of our floors (humidity goes from 20%-80% winter to summer.) Dead easy to apply and it doesn't stink, and it can be repaired.
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Peter Parfitt
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 964
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« Reply #26 on: March 21, 2013, 11:10 AM » |
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Pretty sure osmo doesn't say to wipe it down. Just says use a brush roller or cloth to apply.
Not got a tin on me so can't check.
I never had a problem with Oak which is what I normally use osmo for or sheet material. (Birch ply, oak veneer)
The problem only came up when applied on cedar. I asked the dealer and they said osmo supply one for use on cedar but he said its basically normal osmo watered down. He said you use that if you want to treat cedar straight away but said best is to leave it to weather.
Jmb
JMB is right - there is no need to wipe off the excess. The instructions say that there is no need to sand between coats and apply with a brush, roller or rag. For the interior products I do sometimes follow a routine similar to that of Surfix in that I give a very light sand between coats (240 grit or a green vlie) and then use a cloth to remove the excess of the second coat. It looks great. Peter |
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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woodguy7
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Location: wick, scotland Member Since: Apr 2009
Posts: 2403
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« Reply #27 on: March 21, 2013, 03:00 PM » |
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My experience with osmo oil is to wipe off the excess. I did a walnut wardrobe & never wiped it off but it never really dried. The next one I did I wiped it & wow, what an excellent Finnish ! It don't say it on the tin but I always wipe the excess now.
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If its made of wood, i can make it smaller.
Shirt size medium
p.s- ive started reading these too
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