Author Topic: From richard.selwyn  (Read 12685 times)

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Offline Overtime

  • Posts: 265
  • Eastern Iowa USA
Re: From richard.selwyn
« Reply #30 on: October 18, 2007, 11:07 AM »
 Jim, I have not thinned any of the Target products (yet)  I have used the SC9000 tinted over tinted 8800 as the sealer to get an opaque white finish.  I find that the 8800 is a rather thick sealer that mutes the grain the most but it also acts as a good filler. I don't use the 8800 for any clear finish work.  I think thinning the SC9000 for a wipe on sealer is a good idea. Try a small sample, start with like 10% and see what results look like before going to 20%. 20% sounds like allot but they know their stuff !
  The Super Clear finish coats gave great results but waiting 2 hrs between coats is no fun.

 I have some Hybrivar that I have not used yet and was also told to thin it for use as a sealer. So thats what I plan to do. I'm looking forward to trying the Hybrivar.
     
   The WB ultraseal shellac is Very thin straight up and will saturate most woods easily. I find that I have more control ( more uniform coverage with less runs and or splotches ) when I wipe it on rub it in and then off in one quick session. Then repeat for deeper color effects. Don't let it set too long before wiping it off. 
   Spraying the WB shellac can be a little tricky as absorption rates vary and can lead to uneven coverage and runs. But this could also be just my lack of experience. And I find it's much faster for me to wipe it on. I usually use a foam brush to apply then rub off with clean rag.

   
Patrick

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Offline Dave Ronyak

  • Posts: 2234
  • Flyin' from NE Ohio
Re: From richard.selwyn
« Reply #31 on: October 22, 2007, 11:35 PM »
Overtime, Emmanuel, and Jim,

I did purchase the whip hose and the mini-cup set, and used these over the past weekend to finish a pair of shop cabinets made from Chinese? birch plywood from HD.  I used Target's amber WB shellac to which I added some aniline dyes (from my ancient stock, from Day company) to impart a slightly reddish cast to a medium brown finish.  It worked well.  My only regret is not adding enough dye to the mini-cup to make the color more intense.  One thing I realize is that I did not have any way to reverse the color toward brown if I added too much red (I had no green available).  I applied 3 - 4 coats of shellac (dye stain only in the first two), let it dry and knocked off the nibs.  I used dry microfiber towels to remove the sanding dust (220 grit).  Then I switched to Target WB lacquer, and sprayed 2 coats, knocked down the nibs, microfiber wiped, then sprayed 2 more.  Then I quit.  Hey, these are only intended to be shop cabinets!  I used semi-gloss USL.  I am satisfied with the results, but I believe I could achieve the same or even a much smoother and thicker coating if I was using traditional solvent based lacquer and HP spray equipment.   Maybe that is simply due to my having much more experience with the old technology.  Clean up was a snap, and the absence of fumes a delight.  I did make one mistake - I forgot to clean my shop glasses and today (a day later) discovered they have a nice, even coating of fine overspray adhered to the polycarbonate lenses.

I confirm that the Fuji GT-2 gun and 4-stage turbine work quite well in atomizing the Target (Oxford) coatings.  I also found it very simple and quick to rotate the nozzle cap to change from a flat fan spray pattern to a smaller cone. 

Not knowing any better, I did not clean out the gun between uses except to flush it with water before leaving overnight, and did not cover the nozzle between coating applications.  But I had no problems despite my lack of care.  The gun cleaned up easily when I was done.  There was a very slight buildup of overspray on the nozzle cap which very slightly degraded the fan shape, making a vertical fan asymmetric when viewed from the side.

Dave R.
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