Peter HS
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Location: Crawley, West Sussex, UK. Member Since: Sep 2009
Posts: 133
Crawley, West Sussex, UK.
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« on: October 25, 2009, 06:47 AM » |
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I've got a mixed assortment of jigsaw blades for my Makita jigsaw. Over time, the cryptic part numbers have faded and I can't really tell which type of blade is best-fit for the material I'm cutting. So I generally pull one out and see how it cuts.
Question: I was wondering if there's a general rule you can apply when you look at a blade and think to yourself: this one's good for wood, this for metal, perspex/plastic, etc?
I've tried various blades on the same material and not all of them seem to behave any differently. True, the more aggressive-looking blades seem to be more "aggressive". I was also thinking why manufacturers don't colour-code the blades. Say, something like, brown for wood, silver for metal, white for plastic, that sort of thing.
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Peter. As nice a guy you'll meet anywhere.
(Domino, TS55, OF1400, MFT3, various goodies, yum, yum)
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jvsteenb
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Location: The Netherlands Member Since: Oct 2008
Posts: 321
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« Reply #1 on: October 25, 2009, 07:51 AM » |
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Hi peter,
Here's a HUGE shortcut...
If it's gound, it's for precise cuts. If it's stamped, it's probably for coarser cuts. If its broad, it's for straight(er) cuts. If it's narrow (little depth) it's for scroll cuts. Small teeth, wavy set: It's for metal - smallest teeth are for steel and such, somewhat larger teeth are for aluminium and the likes. Large teeth, hook style: coarse for wood. slightly smaller teeth, ground style: fine for wood. Teeth pointing down from the top of the blade: splinterfree cut in TOP of material. Teeth pointing down on the top of the blade, but pointed up on the bottom: Bosch T308 style, for splinterfree cut in top AND bottom. Ground teeth, on an angle, alternating between the left and right side of the blade: crosscutting for wood. Ground teeth, almost perpendicular to the blade: ripcutting for wood. No teeth or set, but wavy knife-like pattern: foamcutting. No teeth, but gritty embedded stuff in edge; tile-cutting. Smaller teeth, almost no hook, no set: acrylic cutting.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Job
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TS55, OF1010, RO150, RTS400, PS300, T15+3, CTL22E, CMS-TS55+Basis5A (OF1010), MFT/3, MFS400/700, FS800-1080-1400-1900, Centrotec-SYS 09, some accessories  |
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counterfix
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Location: Des Moines, WA Member Since: Jul 2009
Posts: 62
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« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2009, 11:28 AM » |
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the rule is its best to have a minimum of three teeth on the material at all times  Lance |
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paul_david_thomas
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Location: Winchester, Hampshire, United Kingdom Member Since: Aug 2008
Posts: 196
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« Reply #3 on: November 3, 2009, 05:52 PM » |
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Job,
I thought I knew some really sad things - I pass my trophy to you :-) Very interesting however !
Paul...
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TS55, MFT/3x2, Domino, CMS, C12, RO150, RTS400, Kapex 120, Midi, OF1400, MFK 700 & Two German Wirehaired Pointers :-) They really help ! Winchester, Hampshire, UK
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