Can somebody who has one of these tell me how tall it is. I have searched but can't find it's height I'm going to buy one and have a upper cabinet I need it fit under Thanks. 

Thanks a lot. It really came down to the Nova or Powermatic. The Powermatic gets mixed reviews at almost the same price but the only negatives I heard of on the Nova was it's very low audible beep and not being able to take small diameter bits. Neither is of much concern to me plus the Nova has a lot of added features over other offerings in the same price range.     

The beep volume is definitely an issue. 

My plan, when I get around to it, is to purchase one of these from Lee Valley to take care of the issue of not being able to handle small drill bits

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=75987&cat=1,180,42334

Hope this helps

I have been debating over the Nova or the PM2800b also. Both are available at my local Woodcraft and are on display. The Nova is shorter than the PM. The table is not as nice for woodworking as the PM table, no so easy to replace insert is a concern for me. Yes it can be replaced but PM has a square piece of Masonite or MDF that you can make a couple dozen from scarps, the Nova is round and a little more work to make or you have to buy them. Might seem minor but still. The PM comes with a fence the Nova does not.

There are some reviews on the Teknatool site worth reading. Every one of them complained about the low volume of the warning beep and that the chuck will not tighten up on anything smaller than a 3mm bit. I think I'm going to give it some more time and see if the competition comes up with anything to challenge Teknatool. So far no one has brought out a lathe like the DVR-XP. I've had mine for about 6 years now and love it.

http://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-drill-press/

A woodworking store near where I live (2 mile) has the Nova drill on display.

Its a nice drill if you do a lot of repetition work.

That's so true!

I've been using the Nova DP to drill hundreds of holes in aluminum and tapping many of them.

The features I use the most are the function keys that instantly change speeds and the digital depth stop.

While the Nova DP is supposed to have a tapping function (one of the main reasons I bought the machine) in my experience it only works correctly about 10 percent of the time. But when it does it's kind of a miracle it's so cool.

The basic features of the Nova DP can be used as a work around for the flakey tapping feature. I simply set the digital depth stop and at slow speed the tap stops instantly when the quill has traveled the specified distance. I have set one of the function keys to be a forward/reverse switch and when I touch that key the tap backs out.

I did upgrade the machine with a keyless chuck and a cross slide milling table. The chuck allows use of a wrench to tighten taps enough to withstand reverse motion. It holds smaller bits than the standard chuck. I also swapped the long table elevation crank for a wheel. It makes changing the table height swifter and smoother.

With the above very productive setup I was able top complete the project myself. With any other DP I would have had to sub-contract much of the work which would have cost more than the Nova DP cost.

I'd be interested in the handwheel info in addition to the chuck you chose.

Here's another keyless chuck option...Albrecht. They come in a number of sizes and mounting configurations. Some have diamond coated jaws to bite into hardened tooling/shafts.

No matter what make the chuck is, you'll also need a pair of wedges to remove the chuck. There's a minimum drill size for all keyless chucks, usually around 1/16" diameter. So if you're using a drill smaller than that, you'll have to remove the keyless and replace it with the keyed chuck.

The removal wedges are purchased for whatever Jacob's taper is needed. The 2nd picture below shows #3 wedges above the Albrecht keyless, while #2 wedges are lying on the drill press table.

Hmmm, I wonder would my SnapOn tie rod end fork work? 

JK, it hasn't seen use in a number of years and was just trying to justify
its existence in my tool chest along with my other outdated or obsolete
automotive tools. Ya know, stuff like the special Ford upper control
arm adjusters for doing front end alignments, only needed for early 70s
Fords, Mercurys, and Lincolns or a fan belt tension gauge. 

Now for the depth stop.  I can't even hear the beep.  But honestly, since the press stops itself, the beep may be redundant.  However, the press stopping itself is really annoying.  I haven't figured out how to start it back up in reverse so generally the bit is stuck in the work piece unless I clamp it down, which of course kills the productivity of the feature.

These 2 items are directly from the manual, maybe they'll help out unless you've already tried to work with them.

 Sounds/Warnings – This toggles various sound settings.
 Set Depth Reached – List of actions for the user to select from on what to do once the set depth has been reached.


If these don't help, I'd suggest you contact Teknatool directly. As this drill has a tapping feature that allows it to reverse just like a Tap-Matic would, there must be some way of enabling the reversing feature to work with the depth sensing feature.

Support:
http://www.teknatool.com/support/#

Manual:
https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpdesk/attachments/production/19001497568/original/833%20Voyager%20Drill%20Press%20Manual%20FINAL%20version%208.Nov.2016.pdf?X-Amz-Algorithm=AWS4-HMAC-SHA256&X-Amz-Credential=AKIAJ2JSYZ7O3I4JO6DA%2F20170904%2Fus-east-1%2Fs3%2Faws4_request&X-Amz-Date=20170904T145914Z&X-Amz-Expires=300&X-Amz-Signature=25ffbdbb378b763a7cf5b59b4224956e5ac3d128745ba8e61dadbc0e0032d270&X-Amz-SignedHeaders=Host&response-content-type=application%2Fpdf

Now if you could program the depth and the DP automatically advanced
until the set depth was reached then withdrew the spinning bit you'd really
have something. But that would probably be another $500 on the retail price.

That's the reason I suggested that the OP contact Nova. This drill press operates 80-90% of the time on the response from software.

It understands reaching and acknowledging proper drill depth, it also understands automatically reversing the spindle when a limit has been identified. Consequently it's relatively easy to connect the 2 functions to produce the desired result. They'd be fools to charge $500 for this simple functionality.

Instead of watching the drill spin into the work watch the depth display and just stop advancing when you get to your depth. You do have to properly "zero" the right part of the bit to the work before you start.

That's how I do it now. I wouldn't like the bit to stop turning at the bottom of the hole.

So I figured ou the reversing mode of the depthstop feature.  Even still, the bit stops at the bottom of the hole (and not instantly, but runs down if you know what I mean).  But the reversing feature helped out quite a bit.

So the drill doesn't just come to a halt, rather it slows down and then reverses direction, is that correct?

This DP does requires a small behavior adjustment on the part of the operator.
Just watch the digital depth readout, something not possible on any many other DP's.

On the other hand, just like nearly all other DP's, there is a mechanical depth stop so you can use that instead of watching the DRO. But, like nearly all other DP's the mechanical stop is crude.

Quote from: Michael Kellough on October 02, 2017, 03:25 PM

On the other hand, just like nearly all other DP's, there is a mechanical depth stop so you can use that instead of watching the DRO. But, like nearly all other DP's the mechanical stop is crude.

I'll go along with that, the only drill presses that I know of that actually have a decent depth stop is a Clausing 15/20 and a Powermatic 1200/1500.

I looked at (and played with) the Delta 18‑900L and it has a really, really nice depth stop system. Hard to explain, but it has above and below stops and each are micro-adjustable. It, and the Nova are tops on my list. Still haven’t pulled the trigger but both are nice machines.

Oh, and the rubber band swapping for speed changes is also dirt simple on the Delta. It is the only one that I thought was easy.

Cheers. Bryan.


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Those nuts used on the Delta and other make DP depth stops are available rom McMaster-Carr.

Thanks Bob. I figured they might be but the Delta stop plate was about the most robust I had seen. I am sure the combo makes for a quality “true” stop.

Cheers. Bryan.


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I agree. I have seen the stop nuts on the Delta and like them.
The ones I pointed to are similar but not as nice, same for the
Grizzly variants.

Years ago I made a crude one from a shaft collar that fit my DP
and a thumb screw in place of the set screw. It works and is
fairly quick to adjust, and no complaints since it came from
parts in the junk box.