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Author Topic: Picture Framing and Festool?  (Read 3777 times)
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ericbuggeln
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« on: July 23, 2012, 08:53 AM »

I have verbally committed to framing a lot of artwork for a client who has an infinite budget. I have no picture framing equipment or experience, just a lot of measuring, layout , and installation experience. What should I do? I was planning on winging it and buying a bunch of stuff that I will be able to use for the rest of my life, for friends and family, maybe even a client or two.

Any websites or company names? I would like to do some with picture frame stock and some larger ones with the domino and stock from my mill, with mitered corners, Eric
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Tinker

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« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2012, 09:57 AM »

I don't have the info you have asked for.
About 30+ years ago, i was taking care of a property of a woman who made her living by doing picture frames.
She bought all of her material (molded) from a local (?) supplier.  She did all of her cutting by hand.
She had a series of wood miter boxes made up to various miter angles.

I don't have a kapex (yet), but i bet you could do your mitering with your own Kapex.
I would guess that you could find suppliers for your moulded framing stock.

With some fiddeling, i have been able to make some very accurate miter cuts with the ATF 55/guide plate and MFT 1080.
If you have the TS 55 instead of the Kapex, i bet you could do a lot of miter cuts anyhow.
Tinker
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Wayne H. Tinker
Kev

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« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2012, 10:43 AM »

Nothing stands out more than a bad corner on a picture frame, whatever technique you choose, practice ... practice ... practice!

I've seen picture framing guillotines, but I've ignorant of their range of application. May be worth a search.

Frame clamps will be a necessity.

Backing boards? Glass? Borders? There's a lot to consider if you're going to take it on.

Maybe a little reading ... http://www.booktopia.com.au/books-online/crafts-handiwork/decorative-wood-metalwork/picture-framing/cWFLF-p1-l0.html

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kent B

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« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2012, 10:46 AM »


 Sorry its www.pictureframingequipment.com

 
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kent B

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« Reply #4 on: July 23, 2012, 11:00 AM »


 also www.framingsupplies.com is an excellent company.

for some reason having problems trying to post messages , can not modify posting , several times would not post my message.
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hockey_magnet

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« Reply #5 on: July 23, 2012, 11:19 AM »

Foe best results get the best quality mitre box set up you can find - Lee Valley has a Nobex professional that is excellent as well as offering very fine tooth blades. Even though I have a Kapex, and you could use it, you will get better results with a hand tool in this case unless you are willing to put out a LOT of $ for a specialized power tool. You can pay a lot for picture framing tools but depending on how much money you are going to generate, you can also get relatively inexpensive tools that can do the job. Once again, Lee Valley has some good tools that are reasonably priced and there are also the other sites mentioned. If you are just building frames and not worrying about matting, it simplifies things somewhat.

Chris
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RL

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« Reply #6 on: July 23, 2012, 11:36 AM »

I've done several picture frames, and they are pretty straightforward. The two hardest parts of the process are moulding the profiles and clamping it all together. I didn't buy any special extra equipment, other than router bits for new profiles.

For the moulding, it is easier to run one or two pieces of timber over the router table before cutting it to length and mitering it. The MFT/3 with fence and guide rail excels at cutting mitres, because you can reverse the timber and get a perfect corner as the two angles will total 90 degrees even they are 47/43 not 45/45.

For the clamping, I made up corner clamping jigs that hold each corner square and make it easier to use basic clamps. I don't have a good photo of one but you can glimpse it in the background of this photo in the middle on the wall.



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ericbuggeln
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« Reply #7 on: July 23, 2012, 11:58 AM »

That Nobex looks like a good saw and doable price and i was already looking at other tools at Lee Valley. They make nice stuff. An MFT would make a nice workstation for all this stuff, thanks Eric
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rdesigns

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« Reply #8 on: July 23, 2012, 12:16 PM »

I have both the Nobex top-of-the-line miter box and the Kapex.
My experience is that the Kapex excels.
Because cutting at a 45 angle always produces some lateral stress, the advantage of the Kapex (properly calibrated) is that it cuts with very little lateral stress.
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pugilato

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« Reply #9 on: July 23, 2012, 12:17 PM »

I am thinking of starting a framing shop, and the best equipment is at http://www.logangraphic.com/. They have mat cutters and others, most of which you can get at amazon. Grizzly sells a guillotine which you can use to perfect your miters.

Picture framing is like woodworking, and you can make your own moldings and such, but by doing so you may price yourself right out of the market. Find an art supply store and get moldings that are pre-made... much less expensive than shaping your own, which you can do if the client wants something special.
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neilc

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« Reply #10 on: July 23, 2012, 02:55 PM »

I have done picture framing with the Kapex and a Lion Miter Trimmer.  The Miter trimmer does a great job for accurate angles. Typically I will cut close with the Kapex and then final trim with the Lion unit.  I don't do enough volume to justify one of the v-nailers, but if I was doing it in volume, would definitely use one.  For now, I use a Grex pin nailer. 

While I have done dominoes on some of the larger frames, but more for mirrors than pictures, I think for most pictures, glue and the V-nailer would probably suffice.

I think trying to make jigs for the MFT and rails would be a lot of extra work, and would suggest the Kapex instead.

neil
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ericbuggeln
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« Reply #11 on: July 24, 2012, 12:09 AM »

Thanks guys. What would the pros and cons of the Noex Pro vs Miter saw and Miter trimmer? The Lion Miter Trimmers website made it seem like they were out of business, buty Lee Valley sells the same thing. If you use the Miter Trimmer and you want a final piece at 24", do you cut to 24 1/8" and shave a 1/16" off each side? Im just much more familiar with setting stops for production runs?

Looks like Logan is the clear cut favorite for matting tools. Any intel would be appreciated, Eric
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SRSemenza
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« Reply #12 on: July 24, 2012, 12:26 AM »

Since you already have the Kapex, why not get some stock and try it out before buying the other types of frame cutting tools?

I find that I can trim miniscule amounts off with the Kapex when needed.

Seth
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ericbuggeln
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« Reply #13 on: July 24, 2012, 12:32 AM »

Seth, i am in the market for a Kapex, but havent found the extra $1350.00. My Dewalt is perfectly tuned but a twelve inch.

The Nobex looks real nice and how cool is trimming wood? Eric
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SRSemenza
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« Reply #14 on: July 24, 2012, 12:36 AM »

Seth, i am in the market for a Kapex, but havent found the extra $1350.00. My Dewalt is perfectly tuned but a twelve inch.

The Nobex looks real nice and how cool is trimming wood? Eric


Ah, I just figured you had one.   I almost bought that Nobex to take to sites when I knew I would only need to make a  couple of cuts.

I have seen framing set ups that use two power miter saws locked into the left and right 45 positions. The idea being that once they are tuned in you simply do not move them.



Seth
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Michael Kellough

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« Reply #15 on: July 24, 2012, 11:03 AM »

The Frame Square Miter Saw is interesting.



It's kinda like the Mafell Erika "push-pull" saw except instead of moving the saw the Frame Square has a sliding table. The entire table is mounted on linear bearings so the factory adjusted fences produce complimentary cuts resulting in a perfect joint.

If you had an Erika you could mount a similar jig and get similar results.

In both cases potential tearout is restricted to the bottom and outside of the molding which is easier to control with zero clearance inserts and back stops than some systems.

The blade cuts with the grain as a sliding compound miter saw does however the teeth are cutting down into the profile with the Frame Square and Erika rather than cutting up and out of the profile as when sliding a SCMS.

If you moved the fence forward on a SCMS and built it up and only used the chop motion you could get a similar cutting motion and reduce tearout.
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RonWen
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« Reply #16 on: July 24, 2012, 11:21 AM »

http://thebestthings.com/newtools/nobex_saws.htm
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ericbuggeln
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« Reply #17 on: July 24, 2012, 03:00 PM »

Ron, the Nobex Miter Box prices are the best ive seen, but the mat cutters are way out of my league. Seems like $750 seems like a good investment? Let me know, Eric
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Trosey

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« Reply #18 on: July 24, 2012, 08:37 PM »

pictureframes.com

They have all things related to pictures frames. Logan 750 is great for cutting mats and backing boards.

Mill your own molding and cut it with the Kapex.

Be sure to tell pictureframes.com that it is your first order...good discount.
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RDMuller
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« Reply #19 on: July 24, 2012, 08:50 PM »

For joining corners, I purchased one of the Hoffmann dovetail cutters several years ago.  WOW.    I just bought the simplest desktop model at the time and couldn't be happier.

Think of the Lion trimmer as a plane to do very slight corrective trimming of corners that have been already been cut. 

For cutting miters for frames, I haven't found anything that beats a left and right sliding Dubby table for a table saw.  These are inexpensive and really help you get your lengths absolutely perfect.  They are very reasonably priced.
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ericbuggeln
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« Reply #20 on: July 25, 2012, 10:13 AM »

It sounds like buying the Kapex and making no money on this job maybe the winning solution. I dont see why i would drop $250 or more on saws that I will primarily use for picture framing, when I could be using that money to go towards a Kapex, which remodeling business could desperately use.

Lee Valley offers http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=52289&cat=1,43293 and http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=31162&cat=1,43293

while The Best Things offers the last two items http://thebestthings.com/newtools/frameco.htm

Both appear that they will secure miter and press v nails for me. Some of the big frames I would like to use dominoes.

It looks like everyone sells this Logan Simplex model for mat cutting http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32123&cat=1,43293

Will 40" be a hindrance, seems to me it could. I was trying to make this a one time buy for all my needs.

What is the average 24" x 24" frame with single mat worth? Just ballpark, thanks Eric
« Last Edit: July 25, 2012, 10:19 AM by ericbuggeln » Logged
Tinker

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« Reply #21 on: July 25, 2012, 02:57 PM »

>>>It sounds like buying the Kapex and making no money on this job maybe the winning solution. I dont see why i would drop $250 or more on saws that I will primarily use for picture framing, when I could be using that money to go towards a Kapex, which remodeling business could desperately use.<<<

Eric, you know you are going to get the Kapex.  You cannot get off of that slippery slope trap. Oops! The kapex you will find a hundred uses for right away.  You just mentioned your remodeling biz needs it. If you get the framing equipment, you will only use for occasional items, mostly for non paying (gratitude not included in pricing with this discussion) friends and relatives.

I have made window frame trim with my ATF 55 and the MFT 1080 as well as with MFT/3.  With care, small frame ends can be cut at exact angles and can fit.  I have made small frames with 1/4 and 3/8 inch revealed and cut the corners perfectly at 45º.  with scrap, i have done 6 sided frames.  I have a hitachi 8-1/2 SCMS that I have also made trim to fit square with 45º miters at the ends.  I have to admit, i do need to do a bit of fussing to get the set up of jigs and machines perfect, but it is possible.  (I'm not gloating here.  Just trying to get, as Struther Martin suggested about Paul Newman in Cool Hand Luke) your thinking right. 

Of course, there is always the idea that whoever dies with the most tools wins  Poke Beating a dead horse
Tinker

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Wayne H. Tinker
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« Reply #22 on: July 25, 2012, 06:51 PM »


Of course, there is always the idea that whoever dies with the most tools wins  Poke Beating a dead horse
Tinker


Was there a problem here???  I just don't understand... 

 Big Grin
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« Reply #23 on: July 25, 2012, 07:33 PM »


Of course, there is always the idea that whoever dies with the most tools wins  Poke Beating a dead horse
Tinker


Was there a problem here???  I just don't understand... 

 Big Grin


Seems a bit like saying "the sky is up"...  Wink
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neilc

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« Reply #24 on: July 25, 2012, 08:13 PM »

Eric

I think you are on the right track - Kapex, miter clamps from Lee Valley, v-nailer from Lee Valley and some glue and a mat cutter and a nailer for inserting behind the picture, mat and backing.

For one cost comparison, Two weeks ago, I just framed a 24 x 20 frame with no mat at the local do-it-yourself frame shop.  I went there because of finish frame selection and a need to get it done for my daughter.  Nothing fancy, but with me doing the labor, it was 75.00 for the wood and the glass.  If you were to go to a custom shop, that price is probably 150-200 in the chicago area depending on the moulding.  Add more for the mat.

You should be able to quickly pay for a Kapex and get a lot of other work out of it.  I have a miter box called a joint maker that I got maybe 20 years ago that works with a L-N back saw.  Used to do frames with it and there is no comparison to that versus the Kapex.  Personally, I would whatever you might spend on the Nobex toward the Kapex. 

You asked about the Lion trimmer.  I have one and they are still in business because they just resharpened my blades earlier this year.  There are foreign knock-offs that you can get cheaper.  I have personally find the trimmer excellent for finely fitting moulding.  It's most useful on smaller frames where you want the precision.  You could start with the Kapex and determine if it is accurate enough for what you are doing. 

neil
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ericbuggeln
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« Reply #25 on: July 25, 2012, 09:37 PM »

Thanks Neil
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