Author Topic: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.  (Read 1718 times)

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Offline HarveyWildes

  • Posts: 788
I'm thinking of getting a Saw Stop professional 3HP saw with a T-Glide fence.  For years I've had an auxiliary face on my Delta fence, with several attachments.  I built the face based on ideas from Jim Tolpin's "Table Saw Magic" book.  The Saw Stop fence design is more of a Biesemeyer fence, while I had a Delta Unifence with a Peachtree Woodworking aftermarket extrusion made just for the Unifence on which I built my face.

I've seen a couple of different designs where people have replaced the stock SawStop faces with Woodpecker's super track or other similar track.  For the cost of two 36" pieces of super track, it looks like an attractive upgrade.  Next would be some kind of sacraficial face on that to protect my blades.  After that, start to rebuild my set of Jim Tolpin-like jigs, but based on the super track.

Has anyone tried something similar?  Good idea, bad idea?  Anything that you would do differently?  What kinds of jigs have you made that use the slots?

Does anyone know where to get t-slot extrusions that are wider than super track? - Say 5-6 inches wide rather than 3.8?

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Offline rst

  • Posts: 1973
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2018, 07:21 AM »
I have 8020 1545 (1.5" x 4.5") extrusions attached to my two Biesemeyer fences.  These allow me to use different hold downs, I have a piece of .375 acrylic on the faces which can be easily removed (but seldom is).

Offline Birdhunter

  • Posts: 2338
  • Woodworker, Sportsman, Retired
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2018, 12:06 PM »
I have the Sawstop Industrial saw and have made a number of fence attachments, but 90 percent of the time I just use the saw stock. I find the stock fence very adequate.

I built an L shaped attachment I use when the fence is so close to the blade that it hits the kick back pawls. I also built a sacrificial fence that I use occasionally.

The best attachment I built allows a Woodpecker Micro-adjust to move the fence to sneak up on a very precise cut.

I have started watching Rough Cut reruns on Amazon. The woodworker on the show uses a Sawstop Professional. He has a really thick wood beam attached to the stock fence. I’m not sure how much this attachment improves the saw’s functionality, but it looks really cool.
Birdhunter

Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 617
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2018, 01:42 PM »
Next would be some kind of sacraficial face on that to protect my blades. 

 What kinds of jigs have you made that use the slots?


I use my Professional SawStop's mitre slots with mainly three accessories: the mitre gauge, the cross cut sled and panel cutting jig. For featherboards, I made my own with the mag switches.

The earlier version of the saw fence stock was using the inferior grade of plywood and in response to customers' feedback, SawStop has used better ply, I think for the last 7 to 8 years. My saw is about 5 years old and I have used it with the T-glide stock fence with zero issues. The fence is straight and flat, as checked against a 50" Aluminum Straightedge.

The best after-market addition to my SawStop is this: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=72471&cat=1,41080,51225. Not only is it complementary to the SawStop's safety regime (there is practically no chance for kickbacks, if the guides are used properly), but it also enhances the already fantastic ripping quality and results of the SawStop. I was at one time thinking of getting a rail square for use with my TS75, but this stock guides now allows me to cut 4 x 8 as square as the tablesaw set-up allows.

I also use an L-fence which is particularly useful for cutting wide mitred cases. I only use a sacrificial fence for dadoing work (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=72984&cat=1,41080,51225).

By the way, I have known cases in which SawStop users triggered the brake because the blade hit the aluminum (extrusion) fence on their mitre gauges.
« Last Edit: May 23, 2018, 06:36 PM by ChuckM »

Offline ben_r_

  • Posts: 1088
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2018, 05:14 PM »
If I were going to make any more changes to my SawStop fence it would only be to replace it with a Very Super Cool Tools aluminum extrusion fence (LINK) that was still compatible with my Jessem Clear-Cut TS Stock Guides (LINK).
If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 617
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2018, 06:16 PM »
Holy...dust, that guy on the verysupercool clip was breathing sawdust!

Offline JCLP

  • Posts: 868
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #6 on: May 22, 2018, 06:37 PM »
Next would be some kind of sacraficial face on that to protect my blades. 

 What kinds of jigs have you made that use the slots?


I use my Professional SawStop's mitre slots with mainly three accessories: the mitre gauge, the cross cut sled and panel cutting jig. For featherboards, I made my own with the mag switches.

The earlier version of the saw fence stock was using the inferior grade of plywood and in response to customers' feedback, SawStop has used better ply, I think for the last 7 to 8 years. My saw is about 5 years old and I have used it with the T-glide stock fence with zero issues. The fence is straight and flat, as checked against a 50" Aluminum Straightedge.

The best after-market addition to my SawStop is this: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=72471&cat=1,41080,51225. Not only is it complementary to the SawStop's safety regime (there is practically no chance for kickbacks, if the guides are used properly), but it also enhances the already fantastic ripping quality and results of the SawStop. I was at one time thinking of getting a rail square for use with my TS75, but this stock guides now allows me to cut 4 x 8 as square as the tablesaw set-up allows.

I also use an L-fence which is particularly useful for cutting wide mitred cases. I only use a sacrificial fence for dadoing work (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=72984&cat=1,41080,51225).

By the way, I have known cases in which SawStop users triggered the brake because the blade hit the aluminum (intrusion) fence on their mitre gauges.
Hi Chuck,
Thinking seriously of upgrading to the Sawstop PCS175 model. Which one do you have and why?

Thx,
JC

Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 617
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #7 on: May 22, 2018, 07:05 PM »
JC,

I have the PCS with all the upgraded options except the outfeed table (the slider was not released yet). I have used the ICS and still do now and then, and I detect no difference in performance and quality except power. Mine is 1.75HP, 110V, on a 20amp outlet, because it would cost me $400 Cdn to run a 220v outlet to my shop. One day, if I move, I may convert it to 220V with the upgrade kit. If you have the 220v supply, get the 3HP. My shop is also pretty small to house a full-fledged ICS (it is a double garage for my cars at night).

The overarm dust collection and the dust collection blade guard are a must and so is the upgraded mobile base (unless you don't need to move the saw around).

Pass the Titanium blade as it is no where near the Woodworker II. The one that comes with the saw, if used, will actually downgrade your saw! Give it away or save it for rough cuts/non-furniture quality projects. Also make sure you don't use the anti-kickback type of blade with SawStop.
« Last Edit: May 22, 2018, 07:09 PM by ChuckM »

Offline JimH2

  • Posts: 610
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #8 on: May 22, 2018, 07:09 PM »
+1 on the JessEm Clear-Cut Table Saw Stock Guides. Very well designed and they can easily be moved out of the way if you don't want them. Best addition to the saw other than their newer folding extension table. My only complaint about it is that it takes a decent amount to assemble it, but once done it is a massive improvement and is made for their saws so attaching it is easy.

Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 617
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #9 on: May 22, 2018, 07:16 PM »
The installation manual can be improved for clarity. The way they present the three screw holes is confusing.

I saw a video by an Australian woodworker who installed the stock guides on a plywood base and he uses the mag-jig magnets to attach the whole set-up on the SawStop fence. That would make the installation easier.

Offline HarveyWildes

  • Posts: 788
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #10 on: May 22, 2018, 08:18 PM »
The installation manual can be improved for clarity. The way they present the three screw holes is confusing.

I saw a video by an Australian woodworker who installed the stock guides on a plywood base and he uses the mag-jig magnets to attach the whole set-up on the SawStop fence. That would make the installation easier.

Can you post a link to the video?  That sounds very interesting.

Offline Birdhunter

  • Posts: 2338
  • Woodworker, Sportsman, Retired
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #11 on: May 22, 2018, 08:50 PM »
I came up with a way to use MagSwitches to attach the Jessem guides to my SawStop fence.

I embedded two switches in a piece of oak that runs the length of the fence. The Jessem guide mounts to the oak board. This set up works well. The guide goes on with a turn of each MagSwitch.
Birdhunter

Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 617
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #12 on: May 22, 2018, 08:53 PM »

Offline ChuckM

  • Posts: 617
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #13 on: May 22, 2018, 11:15 PM »
For those of you who have the clear-cut stock guides, I also use one of the guides as a cross-cut fence stop, saving the need to clamp a stop block on the fence when using the mitre gauge to make repeated cuts.

Offline blaszcsj

  • Posts: 369
  • I like building stuff with my hands.
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #14 on: May 22, 2018, 11:32 PM »
I have the 48" Verysupercooltools fence with the clear stock guides from jessem on my uni. It is an awesome bit of kit! I would never change it for anything else, only add to it.  It is my favorite tool in the shop! Let me know if you have any questions!
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Offline ben_r_

  • Posts: 1088
Re: Replacing the Face Plates on Saw Stop T-Glide Fences.
« Reply #15 on: May 24, 2018, 12:21 PM »
For those of you who have the clear-cut stock guides, I also use one of the guides as a cross-cut fence stop, saving the need to clamp a stop block on the fence when using the mitre gauge to make repeated cuts.
Ha! Great idea! I hadnt thought of that one!
If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!