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Author Topic: The only circle jig I will ever use again - Micro Fence  (Read 2392 times)
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nickao

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« on: March 4, 2009, 01:29 PM »

I have tried so many circle jigs my head spins just thinking about it.

I finally broke down and went with the Micro Fence version. I will never go back.

This is the first circle jig I have ever used that was precise enough out of the box to match radius's with a simple turn of a screw. I never, ever, could trim my inlays with a circle jig because of backlash or whatever. Even my Woodhaven Circle Jig which I consider fantastic is relegated to just cutting circles in ply for templates, but never used for cutting the edge of an actual inlay or used to make two matched radius pieces. Even with the Woodhaven's precision screw adjustment it was to wiggly and imprecise to produce two exactly matched radius's. I had to use specialized jigs. Until I went Micro Fence!

With this Micro Fence jig I now have no fear at all of damaging or ruining my work.

It is the perfect precision and quality to match up with the Festool routers.

Micro Fence





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« Last Edit: March 4, 2009, 01:52 PM by nickao » Logged

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alanz

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« Reply #1 on: March 4, 2009, 01:55 PM »

Nick,

Thanks for posting this.  Your work with inlays and experience with other jigs makes for quite an endorsement of this solution.

I look forward to hearing more of your thoughts as you use it for various projects.

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Triton 2.25 router; CMT Industrio table; Jointech fence; SC planer; Dewalt miter; Delta 14" bandsaw; Festool TS55, MFT/3, CT22, ETS150/3, OF1400, PSB300EQ; Dewalt Scrollsaw; Nova DVR XP lathe, JJ-6CS jointer, Ryobi OSS; Grizzly 1023s cabinetsaw
nickao

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« Reply #2 on: March 4, 2009, 02:16 PM »

The Micro Fence stuff IS EXPENSIVE. If I had to pay for it myself I probably would not even have it right now.

I am going to take some pictures and post them showing how to match up two radius exactly using this jig. In the past I have made specialized jigs for the router to do this.

It is shown on their site, in short:

Just make your first radius, then measure your router bit thickness with a caliper. Then dial in that bit thickness to the circle jig to move the router the exact amount of the bit thickness. The next radius you cut will be an exact fit to the first radius.

Sounds simple and it is on the Micro Fence set up, not so simple any other circle jig I ever used. Heck most circle jigs only have 1/16" graduations to begin with! Lead screw technology with NO backlash is the key, just like on the Incra stuff.

Micro Fence is definitley Festool quality and compliments the Festool routers.
« Last Edit: March 4, 2009, 02:47 PM by nickao » Logged

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Robert Robinson

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« Reply #3 on: March 4, 2009, 05:32 PM »

I seen them at the Indy woodworking show. It looks like real nice stuff, and I had to pick up a brochure.
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Barry Londrigan

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« Reply #4 on: March 4, 2009, 06:18 PM »

Nickao,

What are the size (smallest to largest) of the circles you can cut with the setup you have and your 1400?  I would love to have something like that to make speaker hole cutouts with.

I just read on the site....6 - 48 inches...  how would you cut holes for smaller than 6 inch holes?  MFS??
« Last Edit: March 4, 2009, 06:22 PM by Barry Londrigan » Logged
Rutabagared

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« Reply #5 on: March 4, 2009, 07:38 PM »

Barry,
They sell an adaptor for smaller holes.  It's called the Center Bar and Levelers and costs $39.95.

http://microfence.com/center-levelers-p-47.html

However, I believe this is an accessory to the Micro Fence not the circle jig.

They have a good video page as well.

http://microfence.com/video-i-6.html



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PeterK

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« Reply #6 on: March 4, 2009, 07:41 PM »

For speaker holes and rebates, I use the Jasper jigs. Definitely accurate enough for that purpose and with a precise 1/4" bit, I can find no error in the hole diameters. I utilize the Porter Cable 7529 plunge router dedicated for that and have not had any problems for this purpose. Now if I was doing what Nickao does, I would surely be looking for something that had micro adjustability.
Pete
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Henrik R / Pingvinlakrits

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« Reply #7 on: March 5, 2009, 05:22 AM »

Nick; looks like the one to get, my wallet is starting to ache all the way from the hallway - and I even closed the door to the study before taking a look!  Grin
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wnagle

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« Reply #8 on: March 5, 2009, 08:58 AM »

Nick,

Did you get the vacuum base for your circle jig?  I've been looking at micro fence for a while, just haven't pulled the trigger yet.  Also which routers do you have it set up for?
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Wayne

 

TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, DELTEX 93, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
JayStPeter

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« Reply #9 on: March 5, 2009, 02:26 PM »

I looked hard at the MicroFence at the last WW show I was at.  Real nice system all around.  It's definitely on my list.  But, there are a number of things ahead of it right now.
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nickao

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« Reply #10 on: March 5, 2009, 05:23 PM »

Nickao,

What are the size (smallest to largest) of the circles you can cut with the setup you have and your 1400?  I would love to have something like that to make speaker hole cutouts with.

I just read on the site....6 - 48 inches...  how would you cut holes for smaller than 6 inch holes?  MFS??

Yep Rutabagared  is correct for the way I show the system you can not go smaller than 6"

Like he says they have the center bar and levers to go with the edge guide for smaller circles. I generally use a router and hole templates I have for almost any size less than 6" though.

I will be getting the edge guide and center bar  for the smaller circles when I do I will post.

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nickao

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« Reply #11 on: March 5, 2009, 05:25 PM »

Nick,

Did you get the vacuum base for your circle jig?  I've been looking at micro fence for a while, just haven't pulled the trigger yet.  Also which routers do you have it set up for?

No I have a different set up I made for vacuum. But I really do not like the Micro Fence way very much. I do not like using compressor for vacuum because it is so loud and that is what it is set up for, plus it is a little cumbersome for the way I move.

If I did not have ample vacuum clamping capabilities I might go for it. I am intrigued by their center piece, but thats about it.
« Last Edit: March 5, 2009, 05:25 PM by nickao » Logged

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nickao

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« Reply #12 on: March 5, 2009, 05:30 PM »

For speaker holes and rebates, I use the Jasper jigs. Definitely accurate enough for that purpose and with a precise 1/4" bit, I can find no error in the hole diameters. I utilize the Porter Cable 7529 plunge router dedicated for that and have not had any problems for this purpose. Now if I was doing what Nickao does, I would surely be looking for something that had micro adjustability.
Pete


Yep for that the Jasper Circle Jigs are fine, I have 3 different Jasper. I do use my Woodhaven for the templates as well and sometimes the newer Rockler circle oval combo jig.

The reason I stopped using the Jasper is that I make every inlay by hand and they always come out a little differnt size.  I have to make the inlays disc sized for the Jasper instead of making the circle jig work for the size I make(make sense). I think one Jasper I have goes to a 1/16", but for an inlay that can be a fairly big gap. Thinking about it, now that I have the micro adjustment to cut the inlays with the Micro Fence it would be simple to cut the disks to be sized for use with a Jasper. Just another reason to get the Micro Fence jig!

The main reason to spend the big bucks on the Micro Fence circle jig is for matched radius work, that is where it excels over the other jigs out there.
« Last Edit: March 5, 2009, 05:31 PM by nickao » Logged

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nickao

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« Reply #13 on: March 5, 2009, 07:39 PM »

Nick,

Did you get the vacuum base for your circle jig?  I've been looking at micro fence for a while, just haven't pulled the trigger yet.  Also which routers do you have it set up for?

Sorry I missed the router part of the question  earlier.

I have it set up for the Festool OF 1400 right now. The one that is coming for the smaller circles(edge guide with center bar) will be used with the OF 1010. I wanted to use the top routers with the circle and edge guides so I get as good Z axis movement as the X, Y movement I get from the Micro Fence system. As good as the Festool routers are I want that Micro Fence base too! It is even more accurate than the Festool routers and matches the edge guide technology from Micro Fence. I probably would toss a Bosch Colt in the Micro Fence Base..

I have the stuff to hook up the Micro Fence to the Festool guide rail also, but I doubt I will ever need it.
« Last Edit: March 5, 2009, 07:41 PM by nickao » Logged

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Steve-CO

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« Reply #14 on: March 5, 2009, 07:52 PM »

Their base does look real nice.  I'm a believer in you get what you pay for, but $400 would be hard to swallow, maybe not for you since you use routers so much. 
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nickao

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« Reply #15 on: March 5, 2009, 07:56 PM »

DAM hard to swallow. But the prices are deceiving as when I called I paid much less, plus it was a gift.

If you want to match radius out of the box there is no other choice, at least I have never found one and I must have 15-20 circle jigs. You can always make something that works like I did for a long while.

The new Festool parallel system is about the same I paid for the circle jig, so really its not that much in the scheme of a Festool shop.

Still, very hard to swallow as you say. That's why I had not purchased for many years, big mistake. All the jigs I got over the years easily cost more money. Trying to save money cost me more in the end.
« Last Edit: March 5, 2009, 07:59 PM by nickao » Logged

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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #16 on: March 5, 2009, 10:48 PM »

Nick:

How do you handle the "pivot"?

If I'm seeing your set up correctly, it seems that you would have some sort of center problems to account for.


Tom
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nickao

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« Reply #17 on: March 5, 2009, 10:55 PM »

Hey Tom I really do not understand your question.

I drill a 1/4inch hole dead center, drop in a collar(Pin sleeve) and than the pin on the jig fits right in the collar(pin sleeve).

Nick






I just wish the pin was longer on the bottom where the thinner portion that fits into the collar is.


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« Last Edit: March 5, 2009, 11:14 PM by nickao » Logged

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nickao

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« Reply #18 on: March 5, 2009, 11:02 PM »

Guys the Micro Fence is also Metric if you like:

Metric Conversion Kit

I think if you ask ahead of time you can just purchase it as metric instead of having to purchase the initial guide and then add the Metric at an additional cost. Micro Fence is really easy to work with and they are very accommodating.

I am thinking maybe both may come in handy for me on occasion if I want to take the time to switch the micrometer out.
« Last Edit: March 5, 2009, 11:07 PM by nickao » Logged

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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #19 on: March 5, 2009, 11:29 PM »

Thanks, Nick... That's part of what I was wondering.

In your original image, you have several "wedges" that converge in the center of the circle. I was wondering how you correct for the pivot in an asthetic manner. I can understand if you don't want to give up your secrets, so please accept my apology if my question is inappropriate.


Tom
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« Reply #20 on: March 5, 2009, 11:33 PM »

'Sorry for dragging this on.

On the mfr's website, it seemed that they had a vacuum center clamping mechanism. I'm wonering if one could use that to avoid any holes in the center of something like the medalions you make, Nick.


Tom
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nickao

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« Reply #21 on: March 6, 2009, 12:00 AM »

Yep but I do not like their vacuum set up setup.

I can make the inlays with no center hole no problem using a few differnt methods. One easy way way is just to work from the back side. Then hole does not go all the way through.

I actually like the little dot in the center and sometimes I make it into a diamond shape or whatever.

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nickao

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« Reply #22 on: March 6, 2009, 12:02 AM »

Thanks, Nick... That's part of what I was wondering.

In your original image, you have several "wedges" that converge in the center of the circle. I was wondering how you correct for the pivot in an asthetic manner. I can understand if you don't want to give up your secrets, so please accept my apology if my question is inappropriate.


Tom

Well I make the star independently first , than add the field pieces. It is only then that I start using a router to spin around the inlay or a disc sander with a circle jig to spin the inlay into the disc sander to make each ring a perfect circle.

I am not sure I answered the question.

Nick
« Last Edit: March 6, 2009, 12:03 AM by nickao » Logged

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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #23 on: March 6, 2009, 12:40 AM »

My real question is, how do you deal with the fact that the circle trammel requires a hole in the center of your perfectly beautiful and precise wedges?

I guess I have to go back through your pictorial treatise but I lost how to get there.


Thanks again for your generosity,

Tom
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Steve-CO

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« Reply #24 on: March 6, 2009, 12:57 AM »

Sounds like the hole goes in the backer board and he works with the good side down.
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nickao

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« Reply #25 on: March 6, 2009, 01:02 AM »

No but I can if I want to.

Like I said I like that little dot in the center and over time the star tips move. If there is no dot in the center after a few years you will see the middle where everything intersects will not line up. The little circle eliminates this.

So though I can make them with no dot in the center it really is not the best way to get good results for the long period this will be in someones floor. Nothing in a house takes more abuse than the floor, weather, from traffic, or the environmental variables in each home through the seasons. The center of that star tip may line up for a while at first, but it will not stay that way forever, hence the little circle. I can make the dots as small as an 1/8" by using a custom pin.

Nick
« Last Edit: March 6, 2009, 01:07 AM by nickao » Logged

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