wnagle
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Location: Akron, Ohio USA Member Since: Apr 2008
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« on: April 12, 2009, 11:17 AM » |
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What is the best way to end up with High quality picturesin your posts. Most Ive done with my cell phone on a lower resolution with less than good results. So I tried with my pentax 2.0 megapixel digital camera. 1) The camera has three resolution settings: 640 x 480, 1024 x 768, and 1600 x 1200. 2) It also has 4 levels in quality: *, **, ***, and Tiff. 3) I've reduced size on this site: http://www.shrinkpictures.com/ which reduces size by pixels or % of pixels. Basically I'm trying to find out the best combination of these three parameters, that result in the best, large, clear photos, that are under the 125kb limit, without taking a hundred photos and doing hundreds of resizing, downloading, saving, checking size, and viewing on the forum. Anyone have any suggestions on how you get great photos in the forum? I'd appreciate any help.
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2009, 12:22 PM » |
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Wayne: If I want to deal with more than a couple of images at a time, I use ImageMagick. It's a command-line tool so it's a little clunky but is very powerful and free. Tom
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Alex
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« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2009, 12:39 PM » |
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The 640x480 setting should be enough to give people here an idea of what you want to show. If you want them to have a real good look, use 1024x768. Forget about the 1600x1200, way too large. Also forget about the Tiff option on your camera, it is a format primarily used by professional photographers who need as much detail as possible and can lead to extremely large files. I have seen Tiffs made by NASA of 250 MB large. I don't know what other settings your camera has since *,**,** doesn't mean much to me. Most widely used format on the web is JPEG (or JPG) for photos, and GIF for smaller pictures like avatars. Best to use JPEG/JPG. When you use imaging programs and you save a picture as jpg you get the option of a quality slider, where you can reduce the picture quality which leads to a smaller file size. Even pictures with only a 30% quality setting can be good to view online and they reduce file size greatly. It would be best to get a real imaging program to do this. I use Photoshop but as a starter you could probably best use Irfanview, an easy to understand freeware program. http://www.irfanview.com/If you installed Irfanview and would like to know how to reduce file size, let me know and I'll explain it here. There's even a setting in Irfanview where you simply give the file size when saving and Irfanview automatically optimises the picture to that file size. You have to download the separate RIOT plugin for that though. Irfanview also has the option of Batch Conversion, which means you can change a whole set of pictures all at once instead of doing each one manually. I'd greatly advise to get Irfanview over a command line utility as Tom Bellamore suggests when you're not familiar with using the command line.
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« Last Edit: April 12, 2009, 12:45 PM by Alex »
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Brice Burrell
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« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2009, 12:42 PM » |
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Wayne, I'm nowhere near a camera expert but I've had good luck in getting decent looking pictures for internet use. A cheap point and shoot camera will work fine. Anyone can spend $200-250 (or less) and get a camera that will take great looking pics for the internet. Your camera will likely be fine I would however recommend a tripod. I prefer to take a fairly high resolution picture and resize it for internet use. Try one of higher quality settings and reduce the resolution (size) and quality of the pic until it's at or below the 125k limit. Good light make a difference also. When it come to a program to easily resize photo there really only choice in my opinion and that's IRfan View.
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wnagle
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Location: Akron, Ohio USA Member Since: Apr 2008
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« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2009, 12:57 PM » |
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Thanks for everyones help,
Alex the *'s stand for good better and best quality and the highest is TIFF Quality... that is a setting separate and aside from the pixels settings. So I guess I'm not sure which quality setting to pick and which pixel setting to get the best picture when reduced. I had Irfanview and deleted it cause I couldn't figure it out.
Brice, I was thinking along those lines. I'm inclined to use the highest pixels and highest quality setting and then reduce in size to be under 125kb. Maybe I should get an inexpensive tripod...I'm sure that would help and be better than the stick (mono pod) I use.
Tom, I think your a couple steps ahead of me... I need to know the best camera setting to take the picture first...then onto the reduction settings... then on to batch reduction... I think
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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woodgeek
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« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2009, 01:44 PM » |
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my suggestions:
forget the low setting and the .tiff format use the middle setting for most stuff use the higher setting if you may want to print your picture
same with the resolution (use the 1024 x 786 most of the time and the 1600 x 1200 if you plan on printing it)
try picasa from Google - basic image manipulation tools, an easy export tool and and organizer all in one
always use .jpegs for pictures, .gifs are more for web graphics
Carl
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no matter where you go, there you are...
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wnagle
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« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2009, 01:59 PM » |
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Thanks Carl. I have picasa, just never looked that close at it. Do you guys usually use the flash? Or just use the florescent light setting on the cam? My 24 x 24 shop is lit with 12 150 Watt CFL's as well as other strategically located CFL's.
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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Brice Burrell
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« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2009, 03:40 PM » |
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Wayne I very rarely use the flash, in fact, so little you can say I never use it. The more light you can get the better without causing harsh shadows. I like a blend of natural and artificial light. Take a close look at tripod in person, you'd be amazed at the difference in quality at the same price point. Look at spending $25-$50. Be sure to read your camera's manual it can be a big help when deciding what setting to use. In the beginning the auto setting is your best bet until you get to better understand your camera. Take a lot of pictures that way you have a lot of pictures to chose from, one of them are bound to be a good one.  The reasoning behind my thoughts on taking higher quality pictures even you intend to use them on the internet is because you can always resize to reduce the file size but you'll never be able to make a lower resolution picture a high resolution picture. I can't emphasize enough the importance of a good photo editing program, you aren't ready of a professional level program, you need something easy to learn and use (and free). I really believe that program is irfan view. I can resize a photo in less than ten seconds that's how easy it is to use. Check out the video I posted above and give it a try.
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wnagle
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« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2009, 03:54 PM » |
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Thanks Brice,
I didn't notice that was a video before on Irfanview. I just watched it and I'll reinstall it and give it a try with some new pics to see what I get.
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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Tom Bellemare
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« Reply #9 on: April 12, 2009, 10:27 PM » |
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I completely agree with the tripod recomendation. It's tough to hold still enough to get high-resolution or close-up pictures without it. It should also be locked down be fore taking the pix.
Tom
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johnbro
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« Reply #10 on: April 25, 2009, 11:35 PM » |
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Photography is a craft just like woodworking. Asking "how to get high quality pics in posts" is like asking "how to build high-quality furniture."
1. There are some basics 2. Then there are some advanced things.
If you really want high quality pic, recognize that it's (like WWing) a combination of setting the tool and using the tool. The camera is designed to make a perfect picture of something evenly lit, middle gray in color, and with a grid on it for the autofocus mechanism to lock in on. Since that isn't what most people want to photograph, everything else introduces the possibility of a challenge.
It pays to learn the basics. Lot of good books on this, it really pays to read a couple. Not trying to discourage you, because it's pretty easy to learn the basics and immediately start improving all your pics, not just the ones for this forum.
Good idea is to post some pics you think aren't up to snuff and ask for some suggestions. I'm sure some of the camera-buffs here on FOG will be happy to help out.
Good shooting!
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wnagle
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« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2009, 08:04 AM » |
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Johnbro,
Thanks for your suggestions as everyone here is always helpful. I guess my initial question wasn't really that clear. I pretty much understand lighting and using a tripod to reduce camera shake and other nuances of taking the picture. I did photgrapghy as a hobby back when film was the only option. Back in the day, I shot everything in kodachrome 25 usually. I did color prints in my home darkroom and had a nice array of Nikon lenses and bodies. Most of what I learned was through a stack of photography books and hanging out at the camera shops. My Photography learning kinda stopped a while before the digital/computer age.
I guess my questions were more digital and computer questions. I wanted to know the best combination of resolution and quality camera settings that would reduce in size to fit on the forum. IE low quality initial picture requires less reduction but there is less to work with or highest quality might degrade if reduced to far. I don't know, maybe those settings aren't universal between cameras.
On my camera, there are 4 resolution settings and 3 quality settings. My question was more of asking if anyone worked out the best combination and simplest way to reduce the photos so the end result was a large high quality picture under 125 kb. I was just being lazy and didn't want to do a ton of test pictures in a multitude of settings combinations and downloads to the forum. I figured maybe someone had already done the work since I see some really clear pictures here. In addition to that, I go to three forums and they all have different size requirements and software with different reduction requirements.
I was hoping someone had and answer like: I use this resolution setting with this quality setting and reduce by this percentage and they are high quality and fit in the forum. I ended up doing some test pictures based on all the recommendations and came up with some acceptable pictures that will fit in all three forums I go too. My camera is, I'm sure, outdated from what I see on the shelves these days. It's a nice compact pentax with zoom features but its only 2 megapixels. So hopefully I'm getting the best I can with my equipment and they will be acceptable and helpful on the forum. When I get the money to upgrade to a better camera... well... you know what I'm gonna do... buy some more tools... lol
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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Brice Burrell
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« Reply #12 on: April 26, 2009, 08:43 AM » |
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Unfortunately Wayne the setting aren't universal between cameras. My experience is the quality of the photo for internet use is more about the program you use to downsize the photo than the camera's setting. My pictures start off somewhere between 2meg-850kb then I resize them to 80kb-30kb for internet use. So it's not real important what you start with as far as resolution is concerned, it is important to have enough light or the downsizing will look bad.
You must embrace the power of photo editing software my friend!
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woodshopdemos
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« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2009, 09:39 AM » |
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Johnbro,
...When I get the money to upgrade to a better camera... well... you know what I'm gonna do... buy some more tools... lol
digital cameras are like all other electronics. They are expensive when new release and then drop drastically when they become "outdated." I shoot about 100 pics a day when doing the website so I don't like to tinker around with the camera. I bought this camera when new for hundreds and now notice it is available "recertified" for $70 or so. I have bought two of the lower priced and they are like new as far as I am concerned. So I have three cause I tend to drop them. (but they still work fine.)  here is a link to where I get them... http://www.ecost.com/Detail.aspx?edp=44377686&navid=155441519
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In memory of John Lucas (1937 - 2010)
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wnagle
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« Reply #14 on: April 26, 2009, 09:51 AM » |
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Brice, I've been trying to use the ambient light in the shop to avoid the shadows of my flash. And this is where I've been going to resize. http://www.shrinkpictures.com/I haven't done anything to the picture before going to the resizing site. Maybe I should make adjustments first with some photo editing software and then resize? John, Your right on that issue. When I got my camera, it was a deal at 275.00 if I remember right. At 2 megapixels it was probably outdated in a few months. Do you think it's that important to upgrade to a much higher megapixel camera as well? Or is a 2 megapixel camera enough for pictures on the forum?
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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Brice Burrell
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA Member Since: Mar 2007
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« Reply #15 on: April 26, 2009, 10:20 AM » |
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Wayne, I've never tried using the shrinkpictures site to resize pics, are you not getting the results you want using this site?
I use the one of three photo editing programs to resize my pictures. I have Photoshop elements (a watered down version of Photoshop), Gimp and irfanview (both Gimp and irfanview are free). I'd strongly recommend you download and use irfanview to resize your pictures if you aren't happy with the website you linked.
The only reason to buy another camera is so you can get better pictures with a little less work on your part. Newer point and shoot camera's auto setting is greatly improved over that of cameras a few years old. I bet you can get acceptable pics with the camera you have now.
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Alex
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« Reply #16 on: April 26, 2009, 02:17 PM » |
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Johnbro,
I was hoping someone had and answer like: I use this resolution setting with this quality setting and reduce by this percentage and they are high quality and fit in the forum.
It really doesn't matter what setting you use on your camera. What you're looking for, the resizing, is ALL done in the imaging software. Professional photographers simply try to get the best (= often biggest) resolution possible and then do the editing and resizing in imaging programs.
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wnagle
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« Reply #17 on: April 26, 2009, 02:39 PM » |
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Well I did use the highes setings just under tiff. Tiff files wouldn't reduce with the site I put up previously. The ones I just added for the dust deputy I didn't resize at all. I downloaded them to picaso where they are resized automatically for there site. Then I put them in the forum under the insert image with the image location. Color balance is a little off. I used no flash and tried several light settings. I have CFL's in my shop. On the Florescent setting it warmed it too much so this pic is under the incandescent setting... still off but a little better than the florescent setting. I could have used the flash and the colors wourd be a better. Maybe I'll try that on my next project. I may also try to upload a tiff file through picaso and see what that does as well. I'd rather use a setting that works than to have to edit each picture later to correct for color. Here is a picture with CFL's on the incandescent setting.  here is one taken last week with a flash 
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« Last Edit: April 26, 2009, 02:41 PM by wnagle »
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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wnagle
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« Reply #18 on: April 26, 2009, 04:29 PM » |
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Well as I guessed, the tiff pictures won't upload to picaso so here's my formula with this camera. Resolution: 1600 by 1200 Quality: Best Color: With no flash, Incandescent setting or with a flash for best color and clarity To re size: 1) Automatic when uploaded to picaso OR 2) www.shrinkpictures.com: Use 600 pixels and good quality I haven't tried anything with Irfanview yet or messed with Photoshop. I suppose they might help as would a better camera. The above seems acceptable and is fast and easy and free. Thanks to all!
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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Peter Halle
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« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2009, 05:57 PM » |
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One of the features that I like about Photoshop elements is it's feature to remove an overall color cast in a picture. It is interesting how different cameras impose a yellow or blue coloration. It also has a function called publish to the web that allows you to reduce quality, size, etc to shrink the size of files while previewing the results.
Peter
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The tools in my truck were talking the other day. The Dewalts, PC's, Boschs, Makitas were not happy. They also were in the minority. Their complaint: They felt unused and unappreciated since the Festools moved in. I guess the truth hurts.
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woodshopdemos
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« Reply #20 on: April 27, 2009, 12:12 AM » |
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I haven't done anything to the picture before going to the resizing site. Maybe I should make adjustments first with some photo editing software and then resize?
John,
Your right on that issue. When I got my camera, it was a deal at 275.00 if I remember right. At 2 megapixels it was probably outdated in a few months. Do you think it's that important to upgrade to a much higher megapixel camera as well? Or is a 2 megapixel camera enough for pictures on the forum?
It isnice rt o have a picture taken at 1200 or greater...in retouching the pixels are amall enough so that you canmake smooth work. I work in Photo by Carell and when done, copy it to SmoothScaling -- I have uswed that program for years and it is the only one that is on 3.5" discs. The company no longer makes it...they have gone into games. But in SmoothScaling I make the width 350 pixels and copy that onto my website,,,coudn't be easier. KISS in real time. By the way, if your camera has a white balance feature use it. I think your use of shop lighting is giving you a strong yellew overcast.
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In memory of John Lucas (1937 - 2010)
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johnbro
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« Reply #21 on: April 28, 2009, 12:50 AM » |
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Ah, I understand the problem now. Thank for clarifying. As said, the "good better best" levels vary from camera to camera. If I know I'm shooting for a web upload, I use the smallest file size. That varies between my point & shoot and my SLR, but either way I upload the pics I like to an album on photobucket ( www.photobucket.com) and let it resize the pic to 640 x 480, then link to that picture in my post. I don't want to have to load the pics into PS or a similar tool and resize, although PS will do a batch resize pretty quickly and easily (I used that functionality commonly when our company does websites for client to make both a thumbnail and a fixed sized larger version of the same image). WRT color or white balance, some newer cameras have pretty good auto white balance features, some don't. It can be tricky to fix it after the picture is taken, so if your camera has a custom WB feature it might be worthwhile to go through the process of setting it for your CFLs in the shop. My SLR has one, my P&S does not.
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wnagle
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« Reply #22 on: April 28, 2009, 05:38 AM » |
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I'm not sure if the white balance has a custom setting or not, i'll have to check. The preset settings don't seem to get it right. Florescent is too warm and incandescent is too cool. So if there is no way to customize the white balance, I'll use the flash rather than adjust color after the fact.
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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woodshopdemos
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« Reply #23 on: April 28, 2009, 10:23 AM » |
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I'm not sure if the white balance has a custom setting or not, i'll have to check. The preset settings don't seem to get it right. Florescent is too warm and incandescent is too cool. So if there is no way to customize the white balance, I'll use the flash rather than adjust color after the fact.
I think it is the other way around... flourescents are usually colder (blue) and incandescents are warmer. (Daylight is 6400 kelvin; incandescents in 3200 range. Flourescents can be "cool white" and closer to daylight but lack the 3200 range.) When you use flash, that is always 6400 or so and easier to mix with the flourescents. Any incandescent will be very warm in the picture. If you are shooting 6 ft and closer and using flash, leave the camera at their WB setting.
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In memory of John Lucas (1937 - 2010)
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wnagle
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« Reply #24 on: April 28, 2009, 07:02 PM » |
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John,
You are correct, I should have used more complete sentences...Here's what I meant. When I use the CFL's as the light scource and the camera is set to florescent the pictures turn out to warm. When I use CFL's and the camera setting is on incandescent, the pictures come out too cool. I'm not sure what temperature the CFL's are, but I suspect they are warmer than most florescent lights and cooler than most incandescent bulbs. I could probably check the packaging but without the correct filter setting in the camera to balance the light output of the CFL's, I guess its a moot point. And I suppose CFL's come in a variety of temperatures as well. I have some that are bright white and most in my shop are warm white.
When I worked with 35mm you could screw on the appropriate filter or filters to your lens.
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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b_m_hart
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« Reply #25 on: April 28, 2009, 07:16 PM » |
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Brice, I've been trying to use the ambient light in the shop to avoid the shadows of my flash. And this is where I've been going to resize. http://www.shrinkpictures.com/I haven't done anything to the picture before going to the resizing site. Maybe I should make adjustments first with some photo editing software and then resize? John, Your right on that issue. When I got my camera, it was a deal at 275.00 if I remember right. At 2 megapixels it was probably outdated in a few months. Do you think it's that important to upgrade to a much higher megapixel camera as well? Or is a 2 megapixel camera enough for pictures on the forum? The quality of the lense is VASTLY more important than the megapixel count these days. For example, wife and I bought a camera ( http://www.usa.canon.com/consumer/controller?act=ModelInfoAct&fcategoryid=139&modelid=14256) as a joint birthday present last year. It's a great camera, with a TON of megapixels, and features. Now, we have a dog that is almost all black (she's my avatar pic), and we have nearly black tile in our kitchen. In low light, taking a picture of her on the tile was effectively pointless. I bought her a couple of "cheap" lenses for her birthday this year, and the difference in picture quality and clarity is astounding. So much so that she took the "black dog on black tile" test pic, and upon reviewing told me that the floor was dirty, I needed to sweep it - along the lines of "see the sand grains in the picture?"...
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TS 55 EQ, ETS 150/5, RO 150 FEQ, OF 1010 EQ, DF 500 Q, C12, CT Midi, OF 2200 EB, MFT/3s, DTS 400 EQ, parallel guides, and seemingly growing by the day...
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woodshopdemos
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« Reply #26 on: September 08, 2009, 12:01 AM » |
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Brice, I've been trying to use the ambient light in the shop to avoid the shadows of my flash. And this is where I've been going to resize. http://www.shrinkpictures.com/I haven't done anything to the picture before going to the resizing site. Maybe I should make adjustments first with some photo editing software and then resize? John, Your right on that issue. When I got my camera, it was a deal at 275.00 if I remember right. At 2 megapixels it was probably outdated in a few months. Do you think it's that important to upgrade to a much higher megapixel camera as well? Or is a 2 megapixel camera enough for pictures on the forum? Wayne, there is excellent advice up above. I use the 1028 by and that is way more than I need. I want to end up with a width of 350 pixels. I really like the large format so that I can retouch frames easier and better. I use Corel Paint - I didn't think that is as popular programs as others mentioned. I started with it in '78 and just keep upgrading it. I use "smoothscaling" to reduce whatever picture I end up with to the 350 width -- it is a great program but discontinued a couple of years back. Thankfully I have had need for support. 3.5 master and I hold on to it dearly. Advise -- once you get a system that works for you, remove all other programs from PC and dint look for new...just concentrate with what you have.
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« Last Edit: September 08, 2009, 12:15 AM by woodshopdemos »
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In memory of John Lucas (1937 - 2010)
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wnagle
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Location: Akron, Ohio USA Member Since: Apr 2008
Posts: 502
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« Reply #27 on: September 08, 2009, 08:53 AM » |
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Thanks John,
I haven't posted any ne wpics for a while so now I have to remember how I did it when it worked. I think if I do a few it will comeback to me. And so far I haven't been doing any alterations to the pics other than size to fit the forum. I need to learn the best way to add pointer and circles and such on the photo to point out a specific area that is being discussed or pointed out. I have whatever comes with windows xp pro and I have adobe photo shop that I could install if needed too.
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Wayne
TS 55, CT 33 x2, ROTEX 150, RO 90, DOMINO 500Q SET, TRION PS 300, OF 1400, MFT/3, ETS 150/3, KAPEX KS 120.
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TheToolPlace
Festool Dealer
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Location: Kelowna & Kamloops, B.C. Canada Member Since: Sep 2009
Posts: 64
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« Reply #28 on: September 22, 2009, 07:25 PM » |
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One of the features that I like about Photoshop elements is it's feature to remove an overall color cast in a picture. It is interesting how different cameras impose a yellow or blue coloration. It also has a function called publish to the web that allows you to reduce quality, size, etc to shrink the size of files while previewing the results.
Peter
Another very handy feature of Photoshop is the ability to Batch Process images. Basically you "record" an action as you do it to one image, and then you can apply all of the same settings (resizing, auto-colour, cropping and more) to as many images as you like. It's a very handy feature. I normally shoot in the highest non .tiff format on my Camera and then Batch all of my images to perform colour correction and resize them for the web.
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Dave Ronyak
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Location: UNITED STATES (US) Member Since: Jan 2007
Posts: 2233
Flyin' from NE Ohio
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« Reply #29 on: February 10, 2010, 12:44 PM » |
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Thanks for everyones help,
Alex the *'s stand for good better and best quality and the highest is TIFF Quality... that is a setting separate and aside from the pixels settings. So I guess I'm not sure which quality setting to pick and which pixel setting to get the best picture when reduced. I had Irfanview and deleted it cause I couldn't figure it out.
Brice, I was thinking along those lines. I'm inclined to use the highest pixels and highest quality setting and then reduce in size to be under 125kb. Maybe I should get an inexpensive tripod...I'm sure that would help and be better than the stick (mono pod) I use.
Tom, I think your a couple steps ahead of me... I need to know the best camera setting to take the picture first...then onto the reduction settings... then on to batch reduction... I think
Wayne, When we next visit, I can show you how to do a few basic things using IrfanView. Bring you PC!! Dave R.
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Friends, family and Festools make for a good retirement. PCs...I'm not so sure.
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