I would compare images at 100% size- Try and take similar pictures to the ones you have already taken. BTW, the second picture is not in focus at all, probably using shallow DOF and no actual focus point. If the AF of the lens still operates smoothly and images look good at 100%, should be ok. Since no warranty for accidental damage, there is not much point in sending it in unless you really suspect there is a problem. Is the front ring of the lens damaged?, if so, you may not be able to screw any filters on it.  If it's just the front ring, most SLR lenses can have a new one fitted easily, depending on their construction. Nice of Dad to care  Maybe you broke something of his years ago and had the same reaction 

You can get special insurance coverage for cameras that covers accidental breakage as well as other perils

Chris

I can't speak to your camera issue, but that is a good looking friend you have there.

They are the "best" friend indeed!!!!

I'm waiting for mine to get her first iq point

thanks for the tip ill give it a try!!  Ill upload the ''improved pictures'' 

JMB

Canon EF-S 18-55  (standard lense comes with camera)




Canon EF 20mm   (new ''WIDE'' lense)



Now I understanrd the smaller number gives your a wider view now but when I ordered it didn't understand it fully just took Canons description as a guide to what the viewing angle was
Quote:
Dynamic wide angle design
By offering a field of view of 94˚, the EF 20mm f/2.8 USM is able to take in the complete field of human vision, and much more. A great lens for the landscape or documentary photographer. Distortion is highly corrected, for a natural perspective when shooting architecture and interiors.




You can see the first picture shows more all round than the second  picture.   I had the camera on a tripod and just changed lenses.

JMB

spooning i think

Yea, kinda vertical spooning !

dont know jmb. doesnt sound right

Our peripheral vision allows pretty much 180 degrees so Canon's statement is somewhat misleading. You would need a fisheye lens to equal our actual field of vision.

Chris

JMB - 35 is not close to human vision. Generally it is accepted that a 50 mm on a full frame or 35 mm on a DX will give approximately the same perspective as the human eye. This is not the same as field of vision.

Oy, you started it by posting mucky pictures 

Get the Canon 10-22 ef-s  and a tripod, or keep the 20mm and get the 5D.

If you check you will see that the 2nd lens is much better than the first in regards to barrel distortion.

In the first the hinge line on the door is clearly distorted the second has it as nearly straight as I can see. If you do a blowup of something with both virticel and horizontal lines near the edge of the pic and check I think you will decide the second is a much better lens.

When I first moved into digital photography (Canon 20D back in ‘02), I mistakenly thought EF-S lenses included the zoom range multiplier. 20mm = 20mm instead of having to take 20mm x 1.6 = 32mm. It was a line of lenses dedicated to APS-C crop sensor cameras after all...  Over the years I’ve talked to lots of people looking to purchase D-SLRs, and this is still something quite a few of them find confusing. Then you start talking APS-H at 1.3 and Nikon’s APS-C at 1.5 and eyes just glaze over. Now with Four Thirds in the mix it's even more confusing.



I wouldn’t worry about EF lenses being "wasted" on an APS-C camera. In fact, I would say there are several advantages to using EF lenses with APS-C cameras.  Heck, the first lens I bought for my 20D was an EF 24-105mm f/4 L.  I currently use a 7D (still APS-C) and I don't own a single EF-S lens.




The EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 is one EF-S lens I wouldn’t mind having. At the adjusted 16mm there just isn’t anything else this wide, in Canon’s line at least.  The EF 8-15mm f/4 L Fisheye gets you a wider field of view, but as mentioned above you have to use software to remove the distortion.  Unfortunately you have to crop some of the image during the process, so you won’t gain much if any width. Now if you don't mind fisheye, the 8-15mm would be great pick. Here's a link to an interesting article on it.  Check out the graphic illustrating where the image lands on the various image sensors.

Canon Learning Center



 

I think the EF-S 10-22mm is the lens to get. Here's a link to a review on it. Check out the first picture in the review. He keeps the camera in the same position so you can see the difference between 10mm, 14mm, 17mm, and I think 22mm. Just mouse over the number under the image. The difference between 10mm and 17mm is pretty substantial.

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-10-22mm-f-3.5-4.5-USM-Lens-Review.aspx




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Yes you will get the same lens factor.
The canon is more because it goes to 22mm  and is a faster lense.

Yes! I forgot to mention that.

JMB, any and all lenses that you can attach to your camera will be 'multiplied by 1.6x' regardless of the manufacturer. It is an industry standard to always publish lens width in 35mm film frame equivalent measure since there are a multitude of different sensor sizes on the market and every sensor need it correction multiplier that is supposedly know to the user of a camera i.e. 1.6x for you, 2x for micro four-thirds users, 1x for us full frame shooters, etc.

For a (mostly) distortionless wide angle images your best bet is to go with the Canon EF-S 10-22mm lens. It's focusing speed and accuracy is superb and it's guaranteed to work on all Canon APS-C cameras in the future as well. The little distortions you will have with wide angle lenses can trivially be corrected in Adobe Lightroom, Adobe Photoshop and DxO Optics Pro with their integrated lens distortion correction databases. The distortions will be mostly invisible unless you're looking for them or you have shot geometric straight lines like a piece of furniture or a building with straight walls.

Stay away from fisheye lenses since they will always distort images heavily and even with correction in software you will either have some distortion left or you will need to crop so heavily that you will lose the angle of view benefit from the fisheye lens and could get better results with a normal ultra-wide lens that keeps lines straight from the start. If 16mm isn't enough then you will need to look at full frame cameras with ~14mm ultra-ultrawide lenses or do Panorama Stiching from multiple overlapping shots after the fact.

I got bitten with some old Sigma lenses I have for my film Canon EOS1000F/N that refuse to work on any of my Canon digital bodies (10D, 5D mark II) because Sigma & the lot have reverse engineered the Canon lens control firmware and not licensed it from Canon so aperture control does not work on my current cameras at all on those old lenses.

Sigma makes optically good quality lenses for sure and their price is lower than Canon branded ones, but I would go to a camera shop with your camera body and try the lens out physically i.e.
- go through the different shooting modes (Auto, Av, Tv, M) to make sure that their lens software version supports your camera model and does not result in lock-ups with Err99 like my 10D does
- try focusing close and far alternating between them to get a grasp of the focusing speed and find out does the focus 'search' back and forth or does it work like the Canon ultrasonic (USM) does i.e. it just whirs for a half second and stops spot on. To my understanding both Sigma and Tamron at least have developed their equivalent to USM focusing for some models of their lenses.
- if possible try focusing on dark areas to see how well the lens is able to operate in normal lighting conditions (lot less light than in a shop with fluorescent lighting) though this also measures how sensitive the cameras focusing points are. Usually the centre focusing point is a so called cross-type one and more sensitive than the rest so you will get best results with the centre point focus activated.

My neighbor bought a camera from Simply Electronics for a great price - haven't used them myself and have considered their website a bit dodgy looking, but he got his Nikon underwater point-n-shoot in a couple of weeks without hassles so I guess they are good. Anyone alse got experiences with them?

Oh, and while you're at it have a good look at one of the Canon external hotshoe flashes and a good diffuser for it.

A proper flash that you can bounce off the ceiling/walls and soften with a diffuser will make a world of difference in inside shots and is a must as a fill light when shooting outside in bright daylight to light up the shadows.

For your camera size I would probably look at the new Canon EX320 flash and skip the EX580II that I have - it's large and heavy even on a 5Dm2 much more on a 650D which is half the size. You might get a good deal on the older EX430 if you don't value the video light that is in the 320 unit (though I probably would want to have the continously illuminating video led available in the 320 since your camera is at least 50% ment for video as well as traditional stills.)

Don't go there!,  Don't even think about it!

Looks good Chris.
Tim

Just for fun I downloaded the image and corrected it for lens distortion and removed the key stoning, and the golden cast...not sure it's better. But the wide angle does give you plenty of room to play with the image.
It's a nice room.

Reiska,

I spoke to couple dealers about incompatibility issues  using sigma or tamron lenses you mentioned.

They said they have been in the trade many years and never heard of this problem with legitimate lenses they have sold.  They have heard it has happend to people who have bought of the Internet and ended up with copies-fakes imported thinking they where buying the real thing.  

Jmb

See how this lens goes.  It's a new world to me never worked with wide lenses before.   Your help and advice has been helpfull thank you.

Thank you to others who have afford advice.



Jmb