Well no.  I also own ALOT of other brands and I ageee they all have some bad tools and some good but I find dewalt has more band than good compared to other brands of the same class  or should I say what dewalts charges if they charged less for some tools I would say some of the tools I think arnt very good would be fine for a lower price. but I must admit I tend to favour aG Garman brand tool straight away more than another tool.  All german tools I own have all been brilliant Festool ofcorse is one of them.  I think Germans just seem to know how to make good stuff.  Like my mum had to replace here washing machine last week lasted over 11 years it was a Miele which is german again ofcorse bought another Miele but most brands seems to only last top 5 years alot go at 3 years.    German engineering Rocks!  So if its German im more likely to buy it  dewalt isnt so another reason y I dont wanna buy dewalt.


JMB

More often than not, I buy raw lumber. I have a Ridgid benchtop planer which does an excellent job. First I use my TS55 to give me a straight edge. Then I use a planer sled which I built to joint one face. Flip it over and use the planer to dress the opposite face. TS55 on the 4th edge completes the job.

With the planer sled you do not need a jointer. It also allows you to joint boards up to 12 or 13 inches wide.

Raw wood is so much cheaper than dressed wood. The planer which cost $500 pays for itself very quickly. You can also fine-tune the thickness of the wood as your project goes on. Recently, I was making a cove moulding for the top of a cabinet. The only way I could determine what the appropriate size of the moulding should be was to keep thinning it until it looked right.

Richard.

P.S. I know the terminology for jointers and planers changes around the world. From wikipedia:-

The term planer may refer to several types of carpentry tools, woodworking machines or metalworking machine tools.

    * Plane (tool): a hand tool used to produce flat surfaces by shaving the surface of the wood
    * Jointer (North America) or planer (UK and Australia): a woodworking machine for making flat surfaces and straight edges on boards
    * Planer (metalworking): a metalworking machine-tool having a reciprocating work table and a stationary cutting tool
    * Thickness planer (North America) or thicknesser (UK and Australia): a woodworking machine for making boards of even thickness

Was there a pretty girl walking by at the time?   Lol

Thanks for the insight Justin. So essentially the idea is to start by creating a square edge (TS-55 on a track i presume?), then using that square edge we just created against the fence, rip everything to width?

Brice is this what your talking about, it looks nice
Kapex UK

Brice - I was just clarifying what Shane said.  That information was spread over several posts.

Corwin - Thanks for providing that link.  I spent a great deal of time trying to untangle the cords from the wheels of the CT22 while moving it around on site.  I am hoping that the CT26 cords do not get entangled in the wheels so much due to their new placement.

hi tony.

the tried and tested way of straightening timber is to start off with a jointer.
start getting an edge planed first then run a side through. this should create a dressed edge and side with a true 90 degree angle.
then its off to the table saw to rip the timber to width/thickness.
next up is the thicknesser to dress both sides and the other edge.  low and behold you have a nice straight, square piece of timber.

now that i use festool, i start off with the ts-55 to create a straight edge, i then clean this edge with a hand plane or electric planer.
then i use the table saw to rip the timber to thickness.
this works for most applications onsite and for my own purposes when making small furniture.

if i had the space and money, i would like to buy a jointer, but for my own purposes the festools work perfectly.

i am sure other people have their own ideas and techniques.

justin.

Hi guys,

I've always purchased my timber dressed, and to the best of my knowledge - ready to use.

The more people i talk to, and projects i see others produce, the more i see people are ripping boards then putting them through jointers, planers and thicknessers.

Do all serious furniture makers do this? or is this personal preference? I'm not a serious cabinet or furniture maker... but i would like to start taking it more seriously. At the same time, can you get away with only a thicknesser?

Thanks for any comments and opinions!

Tony

 

Lost me on that one Peter, I would imagine wherever you may be the facility to transport valuable and delicate accessories in a protective medium would be the same, or am I missing something.


 

Well I guess thats this thread dead in the water now.

As the OP I thought as a fellow FOG member I could steer you guys in NAINA land to a really efficient and effective piece of equipment that is in use in Europe, and that by pressing the right people you might be able to persuade them to bring it over, but it looks like the desire to do that is not there.



 

The T-15 is not going to slam in many 3-4" holes or 1" holes 12" to 18"deep for very long. All the electrician, plumbers and Demo laborers I know all use the 36V stuff for the heavy work.  The 36V De Walt tools take a abuse and are just a different animals than a T-15 or the Festool cordless stuff. It's brute force verse finesse. The T-15 is a baby compared to the big 36V DeWalt tools. Those 36V weigh a ton and simply are much more powerful than any 15 or 18 volt units.

Funny people say they will never buy certain name brands. DeWalt makes some tools that are better than any or most on the market, so does Milwaukee and Makita and Bosch. If you take it tool by tool there a several brands that beat out some Festools as well. I never understood staying away From entire brands, I stay away from certain tools, but not entire brands. You are excluding your self from some of the best tools. I have loads of Festools, but I don't turn up my nose at any tool that performs well.