Recent Posts

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Festool and Tanos Systainers / Re: Systainer Design Weak Point ??
« Last post by Don T on Today at 01:08 AM »
It is very strange since this is not the first time blue systainers have been made. Several years ago the FOG gainers were made in blue. And more recently the anniversary systainer was also blue. Maybe just a bad batch due to improper temperatures as already noted.
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Festool and Tanos Systainers / Re: Systainer Design Weak Point ??
« Last post by Cheese on Today at 12:51 AM »
Possibly the blue color is causing flow problems and there  is a  knit line that is weak.  The knit line (where 2 flows of molten plastic meet) will always be present, perhaps the blue color is harder to melt and is flowing colder causing a weak knit line. Just a speculation.

Spoken like a guy who’s had injection molding experience.  [big grin]   [big grin]

As Vijay explains, you’ll always have knit lines around cored holes because the plastic is forced to race around each side of the core pin and then once the 2 fronts of plastic reach one another, there has to be enough residual heat in the mold and in the melt to one again become a homogeneous material, otherwise weak knit lines can be the result.

Maybe they’re running the mold at a lower temp than normal because of possible color degradation?

Seems strange that suddenly on just blue Systainers these hinge pin hole issues raise their heads.

I’ll check my new “blues” tomorrow and see if I have any issues.
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Just wait for the North American version,   instead of 50, 36, 27, 21   we get  1-24/25  1-2/5 , 1-1/16 etc.  I'm still looking for a tape measure that will read out 7-2/3" so I can set the rear stop on my MFT/3 per Festool's manual.

LOL...and if you find one of those tape measures, let me know because I need one to set my HKC that reads out in inches but only indexes in millimeters.  [eek] [eek]
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General Friendly Chat / Re: What's Cooking
« Last post by Cheese on Today at 12:08 AM »
Hoisin Shrimp ...healthy too.
Only when you skip the shrimp.
In case you want to stay blissful as you want to continue to eat them: don't research how they are farmed.

Yea, ain’t that the truth... [scared]

This reminds me of my first year in college when I needed to get a “good paying part time job” to help pay for the expenses. I hired on as a butcher and a smoker for a local sausage maker. One of the perks of the job was that every day I worked, I could go into the coolers and pick any meat product to cook for my dinner/lunch.

Unfortunately, after seeing how these ground meat products in casings were produced, I lost any interest in eating any of them.

It took 4-5 years after I quit before I mustered up the courage to actually, once again, eat a brat or a wiener.  Sometimes it’s just “too much information”.

50+ years later the single mention of “head cheese” still gives me the willy’s.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: festool connector set screws
« Last post by CADru on Today at 12:04 AM »
hello.  trying to find clear info on the specs for the festool connector set screws.  would like to buy some replacements. 

thx
For guide rail connectors I replaced my set screws with these from McMaster-Carr
Part# 93285A412: 18-8 Stainless Steel Nylon-Tip Set Screw, M6 x 1 mm Thread, 6 mm Long
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I have the run from earlier this year of the Bevel Square Set, not the Holiday Countdown that was just sold out...so this is ready to send ASAP.  This includes the 7" Bevel Square, 12" Bevel Square and Angle Reference Plate.  I got it kinda just to hold onto in order to try to trade it for this reason....I REALLY want the Woodpeckers OTT Parallel Guide Set!!!

Before I put this up for sale...I am looking to TRADE IT.  If you own the Woodpeckers OTT Parallel Guide Set in Systainer and would like to own the Bevel Square Set + some other goodies/cash...PLEASE let me know.

If I don't get a bite on this for another 10 days, I'll put this up for sale at RETAIL.  Thanks!
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Finishing and Painting / Re: Cabinet Finishing
« Last post by duburban on Yesterday at 11:17 PM »
I have a gallon of Sayerlack Hydroplus to test, meant to do that months ago.

Lately, the Cabinet Coat that I linked in the op.

I believe that Cabinet coat and any of the urethane/acrylic top coats stand up better to day to day use than Kem Aqua+, although I have never had any call backs or complaints when I used Kem Aqua+ on new or refinishing projects. A four stage can handle the viscosity of Kem Aqua + so it is a good choice but any of the higher viscosity coatings like Cabinet Coat or Emerald are difficult to spray with a turbine HVLP.
If I couldn't get Kem Aqua+ I would use a poly/urethane/acrylic like Cabinet coat and PPG Breakthrough or modified urethane alkyd like SW Emerald.
I have found Wood and Wall or Kem Aqua Surfacer to be a good general primers but I am looking for a better water bourne primer that will seal stains for refinish projects. I am going to use Inslx Aqua lock Plus a try.
Tim

@Tim Raleigh,

KA+ is an acrylic.

I just did the Breakthrough thing. Had to refinish every cabinet shot with it. For some reason after a week of dry time it looked water spotted. Primers used were Zinsner Smart Prime recommended by the supplier, Wall and Wood and KA Surfacer. I shot samples that the supplier sent out to be tested. It's been 6-7 weeks they PPG lab has had them. So far they have no answer for the surface appearance (well, they did have one suggestion for the issue---I over thinned it, problem with that diagnosis is---I shot it straight out go the can). The colors were an off white and a light green. 

Only issue I've had with KA+ was on a commercial application. The hand soap dispenser dripped on a door edge for 2 years. It did peel the finish on the corner. Took me some creative chemical applications to get the soap out of the wood.

If you want a finish that is as hard as a rock--SW Sayerlack (waterborne) with cross linker. We installed a 680 pound locker top on a wood seat, the last 6" we had to push it in place across the top. Not a scratch in the top. I was impressed.

Tom
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Finishing and Painting / Re: Cabinet Finishing
« Last post by tjbnwi on Yesterday at 11:12 PM »
I recently did some Kem Aqua + Surfacer on MDF. This finish wasn't super flat/smooth like I had wanted but I could have let it cure longer and spend more time sanding, perhaps 2 coats. I'd like to continue this process for semi/high gloss clear coats for that ikea panel type look.

What are you putting as a top coat for cabinet grade?

Lately, the Cabinet Coat that I linked in the op. Although in 2019 it is a major goal to get into the Kem Aqua world
@tjbnwi is referencing. Mostly for speed and faster turnaround because we need the production boost of faster primers and paints.


The SW stores in central VT can get a little fussy trying to get this Kem Aqua in house. I'm sure they're a lot nicer to you!

@duburban

You need to locate a Products & Finishes store. They have certain binders that make the KA+ work better with darker colors. A normal store does not have access to the entire KA product line.

Had issues with the Denver P&F store. The issues I had with them had me considering leaving SW after 60+ years my family has been dealing with them. Took a few phone calls but I got the issues resolved. This was the time period I tried the Breakthrough and M.L. Campbell products. Pretty sure someone at corporate looked up my account and made a phone call.

Tom

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Finishing and Painting / Re: Cabinet Finishing
« Last post by tjbnwi on Yesterday at 11:04 PM »
Lately, the Cabinet Coat that I linked in the op.

I believe that Cabinet coat and any of the urethane/acrylic top coats stand up better to day to day use than Kem Aqua+, although I have never had any call backs or complaints when I used Kem Aqua+ on new or refinishing projects. A four stage can handle the viscosity of Kem Aqua + so it is a good choice but any of the higher viscosity coatings like Cabinet Coat or Emerald are difficult to spray with a turbine HVLP.
If I couldn't get Kem Aqua+ I would use a poly/urethane/acrylic like Cabinet coat and PPG Breakthrough or modified urethane alkyd like SW Emerald.
I have found Wood and Wall or Kem Aqua Surfacer to be a good general primers but I am looking for a better water bourne primer that will seal stains for refinish projects. I am going to use Inslx Aqua lock Plus a try.
Tim

@Tim Raleigh,

KA+ is an acrylic.

I just did the Breakthrough thing. Had to refinish every cabinet shot with it. For some reason after a week of dry time it looked water spotted. Primers used were Zinsner Smart Prime recommended by the supplier, Wall and Wood and KA Surfacer. I shot samples that the supplier sent out to be tested. It's been 6-7 weeks they PPG lab has had them. So far they have no answer for the surface appearance (well, they did have one suggestion for the issue---I over thinned it, problem with that diagnosis is---I shot it straight out go the can). The colors were an off white and a light green. 

Only issue I've had with KA+ was on a commercial application. The hand soap dispenser dripped on a door edge for 2 years. It did peel the finish on the corner. Took me some creative chemical applications to get the soap out of the wood.

If you want a finish that is as hard as a rock--SW Sayerlack (waterborne) with cross linker. We installed a 680 pound locker top on a wood seat, the last 6" we had to push it in place across the top. Not a scratch in the top. I was impressed.

Tom
10
Finishing and Painting / Re: Cabinet Finishing
« Last post by tjbnwi on Yesterday at 10:49 PM »
I use KA+ Surfacer on MDF panels on 5 piece doors all the time. Spray, let set, sand, spray, sand, 2 top coats. No oil for me....

You should make sure your getting the new 5421W  Gen II Surfacer.

https://www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=SWOEM&lang=E&doctype=PDS&prodno=E64W522

Tom

Yup. "let set" = a 30 min, hours or a day? I found I absolutely blew through all the surfacer with the recommended tip size. Can't wait to go after it again.

@Scott Burt,

During warm months 15 minutes. It can be up to an hour on colder days, I keep the shop at 64ºF.

Tom
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