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Thanks to all who answered me. I go on my thinking, and your remarks help me.

@Sean : I had thought of vacuum ; actually I own the Festool Vac System (old version with the pump in a systainer). It works fine on my bench for sanding, planing ... but the problem is its integration with the MFT : not a la Festool (with the rotating plate), I want to clamp the piece in place ON the table, generally under the rail (for rooting essentially). I did a crude experiment : unplug the hose from the clamping unit, put an o-ring (18mm diam) at the end of the hose, and press it against a board (mdf, plywood, agglo). I was pleasantly surprised at the restraining force, given the small area. Naturally the board can be easily pulled up, but I think that perhaps four of these could suffice to prevent a board already partially maintained by the rail to move laterally when routing or sawing, and it's enough for me, I don't need the strength of the original clamping unit, which is really impressive. So I was thinking of some dogs, with a vertical center hole and a groove + o-ring at their top. These dogs are connected to the pump under the table, and their top is flush with the top (details to improve). Note that does not contradict my idea of doubling the hole pattern as the "sucking dogs" must be close for a small piece.
Integrating a vacuum table functionality should neither be that difficult nor expensive, just drill some small holes through the table and have an airtight cavity on the bottom of them through which you can suck the air out.
This might give you some ideas:

Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Re: Rotex Jig
« Last post by Gregor on Today at 05:49 AM »
I used it sometimes, but not often. The disc doesn't run as smooth as a real one, it wanders all over the place when it's free spinning.
Did that only happen in random orbit mode or also when you put the Rotex in the mode that gave it the name?
In my van taken last summer. I've since drilled a ¼" hole and put a dowel through the rail holes to hold the rails in place.

I was thinking of maybe using a variation on that (much wider slot though) to hold my rail box thing, that way I can remove the entire box and carry my rails onto site. It doesn't even need to be full length, just the ends to hold the box in place.
Some sites are better than others and on some I can trust the people around me, thats not always the case and some people are denser than others.

The rail bags Festool supplies only seem capable of keeping dust and paint off the rails whilst giving Festool a massive advertising space so if I can't make something better myself I might as well just pack my tools up and give in. I do own one of the bags but thats cos it was cheaper to buy thana case for my air rifle [big grin]
General Friendly Chat / Re: What's Cooking
« Last post by travisj on Today at 03:10 AM »
I am one of those readers.  I enjoy this thread, although I don’t fancy myself a good cook.  I have a very limited range.  Meatloaf and sloppy joes are solid.  Lefse tastes perfect, but I haven’t been successful in rolling it out perfectly round.  My Swedish potato sausage and fresh walleye tacos are excellent (in my opinion).  However it pales in comparison to what I see posted here.

My one daughter (she’s 10) has taken an interest in cooking and I am trying learn and be supportive for her.  She can handle the lefse fairly well and enjoys making the spicy mayo and cabbage slaw for the fish tacos.  She doesn’t do too well with meat yet, too gross in her eyes, especially when I pull out the grinder to make sausage.

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Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Re: Rotex Jig
« Last post by Alex on Today at 03:08 AM »
I made one long ago in 2009 out of scrap MDF when I just got my Rotex 150. Used the two screws on the side for the handle to hold it in place.

I had no plan, just made it on the fly. An MDF board like 40 x 30 cm, with a u shaped cradle to hold the Rotex, and a simple height and angle adjustable worktable pointed at the disc held together by butterfly nuts. Took me like 2 or 3 hours to make it.

I used it sometimes, but not often. The disc doesn't run as smooth as a real one, it wanders all over the place when it's free spinning. It had only limited use for me.

Then somebody threw it out in the garbage by accident when I brought it with me on a job. Never felt the need to make another one.
Festool How To... / Re: Show how you store your track saw guide rails
« Last post by Stunt on Today at 01:44 AM »
In my van taken last summer. I've since drilled a ¼" hole and put a dowel through the rail holes to hold the rails in place.

General Friendly Chat / Re: What's Cooking
« Last post by Cheese on Today at 12:41 AM »
You know what's incredible about this thread..............there may be only a dozen or so continual contributors to this thread yet this has been read over 42,000 times. This is a woodworking forum and the eats section has more hits than the saw blade section.

I wonder if this is a case of a lot of closet cooks out there, or if there are a lot of people that hope there are some good alternatives to fast food. If it's the later...tell us what you don't like about fast food and let the contributors help. This service is free.  [big grin]

To help you on your way to eating better tasting foods may I suggest Cheesy Chicken Enchiladas with Red Sauce.

Simply Delicious

@Alex , the tracksaw arena has changed immensely during my time here.  Patents have run out and it is like the "wild west" out there.  Not . . . . . .


How true @Peter Halle - Bunnings our biggest Hardware Chain down here is now selling track saw versions in AEG and the really cheap Ozito brand. The laters tracksaw has 1200W, 2 rails @ 700mm and 2 clamps all for $A189. The clamps look very similar to Festool's. That price is around 11% of the price we pay for a TS55 and as such will attract 'very' ocaisional users.
Member Projects / 5. Installing LED strips and other LED issues
« Last post by Cheese on Yesterday at 11:48 PM »
I've had led strips explode and catch fire in the past which worried me, they were covered in a kind of clear plastic sheath which i guess insulated them.

So @Russty , this response goes back to your previous experiences. I assume the LEDs you're talking about were waterproof LEDs. If so they probably had a profile that looked similar to this.

Well the supplier of these LEDs suggested I just remove the liner of the VHB double stick tape and adhere this to any substrate I wanted to. So I did. I routed out some channels in stretchers that were part of a cabinet assembly and adhered the LEDs to the wooden stretchers after sealing the channels with 2 coats of sanding sealer.

I then decided to "burn in" the LEDs for a couple of days just to make sure everything was copacetic. So after 2 days of continual activation they looked like this.

Day 3 looked like this.

Day 4 looked like this.

And day 5 is when I decided to intercede.

Upon closer inspection you can see burn marks on the LED covering. Even more surprising is that some are burned, some are really burned and some are not burned at all. That's the way it's always been with semiconductors, "catch as catch can."  They're all individual entities and they all age differently and in this particular incident, produce different levels of light and different levels of heat.

You'll also notice that they've been adhered to a wooden substrate. That's a big part of the problem. Wood is an insulator and it absorbs a minimum amount of heat and radiates none. The vinyl waterproof barrier over the LED puts the final death knell on this product.

This LED can't rid its heat from the top and it can't rid its heat from the bottom. It just sits there and cooks. Possibly, if it's in a water bath it may survive, however that's not how these are commonly used. They're used outside when moisture is a problem.

I do think however, if these were placed on an aluminum heatsink, these issues would be mitigated. Keep them cool is a mantra.

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