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Since you didn't say, I don't know if you have a table mounted router. If you do, you can joint wood using a split fence where the outfeed side is slightly (like 1/64") offset from the infeed side. If you only have a one-piece fence, mounting a piece of high density plastic tape on the outfeed side or something that brings the outfeed side out the required distance will work. There are videos on YouTube about this technique and, while I don't use it often since I have a jointer, it does work. On the other hand, if you already have a jointer, keep it. I feel that that is still the best way to edge joint a board.
I have the cordless Carvex and like it a lot.  I don't use the Carvex with my CT26 as dust collection on a jigsaw is not that great in general.  But personally I really like the battery operation.  One reason I went with battery is I use the Carvex for cutting down materials I bring home from the lumber yard and have to bring down stairs to my shop.  Battery makes it more convenient.

I also find a cordless Carvex is easier to maneuver into different situations.  It's typically a 'short run' tool so I never worry about the battery expiring and wishing I had the corded version.

I have read here on the forum that the battery TSC55 is actually more powerful than the corded TS55.  But I don't have one.  With the new batteries and BT support to a vac, I think they will become even more popular.
The new Grants Net mesh paper. Is that mostly for drywall?  Throughout the entire video they only show sanders being used on drywall. It would make the most sense but figure looks I would ask.

@BJM9818, GRANAT NET is made for applications that produce a high volume of dust according to Festool's marketing. I think that's because of the benefits of the open mesh being porous. There are similar mesh abrasives out there that folks use for plenty of sanding tasks outside of drywall. I don't see why this would be any different.

The mixer. Is it designed to mix concrete?  I’ve torn up way to many Milwaukee cordless drills on being stupid and mixing concrete with them.

@TylerC, can you comment on this? I believe it should be capable of mixing concrete up to the prescribed maximum capacity of 15.85 gallons.

So will the Bluetooth batteries always be a la carte? For example, will the HKC or other cordless tools be offered with them ? or will you have to buy the bare tool , and charger/batteries separate?

@Luzzy, I doubt Festool will offer them included with the tools in the near future. But I could be wrong. Eventually, I think it's possible but I believe it's a year or more away.

Good morning!

Thank you everyone for your help with my questions so far!

Another mental conundrum...

I am within the 30 day return window for the TS55 saw I bought. I am already returning the CT26 as I want the newer model with upgraded hoses. With the release of the Bluetooth accessory button, and new bluetooth batteries, I am debating whether to return the TS55 and the Carvex (have not had a chance to use the carvex yet) and purchase the cordless versions of each. I plan to have the vac hose hooked up the the tool anyway, but the tools also feature brushless motors.

Those of you who have the cordless versions, how are they? Are they heavy and cumbersome / is the corded model better?

I am a home hobbyist, but having the battery option for my older ryobi circular and jigsaw were really nice. I initially purchased the corded versions of the festools because I wanted them hooked up to the vacuum, and loved the auto on feature. but now with the BT batteries and features, this changes everything!!  [eek] [blink]

Thank you !!
How thick do you think it is? It should be going much faster than the rate you have so far. Are you using the Rotary mode or the random orbit mode? Is the paper loading up with the varnish or is it staying pretty clean? Try the Rotary mode and the fastest speed you can use without loading the abrasive with varnish. Breaking thru the skin is the challenge.
The simple answer is No, as others have mentioned. I use mine very well for small pieces or detailed items. However, I have had pretty good luck with long pieces when I've set up an  outbound surface for the piece to slide onto. At some point I would like to make a dedicated in/out feed platform to go around the 850 but haven't had time.
If you have a 6" jointer stick with it. Probably the more accurate option.
Oops, probably shouldn't answer a thread when I'm tired.
If you have room for a dedicated (not mobile) router table, I think that is a better solution than the Festool router table. I have a shop full of Festool products so I am a real fan of their tools.

I find the Festool router table is too small for many of my routing tasks, the fence is rudimentary, and the table is a little shaky. I think the best feature is the sliding miter.

There are a lot of really great router table kits, great fences, and great lifts. I use a Porter Cable router motor in a lift and it provides ample power for every thing I run through it.

If I had to have a mobile router table and could deal with a small work top and a so so fence, I'd buy the Festool unit.
ok, thank you for the info.  ;)
Since you already have the 1010, I would recommend going for the 2200.  You do of course gain additional functionality and power with the 1400 over the 1010, but you push your game to the next level with the 2200.  And since you seem to want to add the 2200 at some point, why not now?

Can't help you when it comes to which of the CMS sets you should get, but I would add for your consideration the option of going with another manufacturer for dedicated table routing.  You could buy a decent router table set-up and a 3.25 Triton router (which has uabove the table adjustment and bit changing, thus removing the need for a router lift) for less than the price of the 2200, or the price of the 1400 fully loaded with accessories.  You would then have the money to buy the 2200 and you would end up spending basically the same amount as you would on the CMS set and the 2200 (at least in the States -- not sure if this also holds for DE).  It is worth it in my opinion to have a dedicated table router so that you don't have to waste time fiddling with attaching and removing the machine from the table.

I know there are some on the FOG that use the CMS as their shop-bound router table, but unless you're going to be mobile, I think you might derive just as much if not more functionality from a sturdier, more traditional router table.  The only thing you sacrifice really is the nifty sliding gauge for end/cope cuts, which can, however, be replicated on most decent tables through the miter slot.

EDIT: Since you are in Europe, I suppose an additional factor that might make the CMS attractive is the possibility of adding additional inserts for the TS, BS, or jigsaw -- items which we don't have direct access to in the States, unfortunately.   But I still say get the 2200!
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