Recent Posts

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41
Mmmm, I dunno.  7,500 may be pushing it a bit.  I have a friend who gave up on vacuum veneering at 8,000 and clamping would need even more strength.

I work just shy of 6,000 and mine has no trouble.

Unless you find someone using a Vac Sys SE at that altitude, I guess it would have to be a matter of try one and take it back within 30 days if it doesn't work.  Setup is trivial, won't take long to find out.

If the local woodcraft has a demo unit, maybe they would let you borrow theirs for a few hours to test it....

Let us know what you find out!
42
Member Projects / Re: Small reclaimed oak shelf
« Last post by ear3 on Yesterday at 06:33 PM »
Lol.  I certainly got my workout, but it was more that because the faces were still rough and uneven, I was worried about plunging the blade in too deep and experiencing a major kickback event if the board face wobbled along the fence. 

Why didn't you cut a deeper kerf on the table saw? Wanted re-sawing workout?
43
Member Projects / Re: Mid Century Modern credenza
« Last post by Jesse Cloud on Yesterday at 06:31 PM »
Beautiful piece.  Great design and workmanship.  You nailed it!!
44
Member Projects / Re: Small reclaimed oak shelf
« Last post by Svar on Yesterday at 06:30 PM »
Why didn't you cut a deeper kerf on the table saw? Wanted re-sawing workout?
45
Member Projects / Re: Small reclaimed oak shelf
« Last post by ear3 on Yesterday at 06:22 PM »
I knocked off the corners to account for the difference in the radii between the slot cutter bearing and the template guide:

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Then glued up the entire door:

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I applied two coats of Surfix one-step to all the cabinet pieces, and then set about getting the doors hung and squared away.

I opted for a more classic hardware option of butt hinges on the doors, and so cut the mortises with a router plane: 

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I made the doors slightly oversize so that they could be trimmed with the tracksaw to provide a matched reveal relative to the case.  Even after 3 years of using a tracksaw, I'm still giddy when I get to do something like trimming a door that is still attached to a cabinet.

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Here's the final product:

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I left the bottom open for the mugs, and I didn't think it necessary to put on a back, as it will just be hanging on the wall.

I still have to turn some door knobs, but in the meantime I was able to hang it in place, and it has already been almost completely filled:

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A lot of work went into such a small, basic project, but I'm pretty happy with how the bookmatched panels turned out.  In particular, I like how the nails holes and splits don't create a perfect mirror image:

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I had hoped to include knots in one of the panels, but that part of the board ended up being too unstable even when glued up, so I broke it off and made a hot plate/emergency Xmas gift out of it (sanding it up to 1200 and applying Surfix heavy oil):

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Next time I do some cabinet doors for home, I'm going to experiment with more exaggerated curves to achieve a more organic effect.  My wife likes the cabinet, but it still feels a bit rustic and country-kitchen like.
46
Member Projects / Small reclaimed oak shelf
« Last post by ear3 on Yesterday at 06:13 PM »
After a bunch of reclaimed oak projects over the summer, I had built up a decent off-cut pile of 2x6 and 2x8 offcuts, so I decided to consecrate those pieces for a cabinet my wife requested for her (growing) collection of supplements and tea mugs, which were starting to take over the kitchen counter.

To hit the projected linear feet, and to especially to make the planned bookmatched panels for the doors, I resawed a few of the beams using the Roubo Frame saw I got from Bad Axe tool works last month.  Kerfed each piece on the table saw to assist in blade tracking:

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Then clamped them up one by one in the leg vise and sawed them in half:

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The sawing went relatively quickly, and after planing them all to an equal size, I ended up with boards a bit thicker than 5/8.  The frame saw has been a great addition to my arsenal, since my shop will not accommodate a serious resaw capable bandsaw.

For the verticals and door frame members, I simply planed down the remaining boards on the thicknesser to 1"+.  You can see I was really scraping the bottom of the barrel at this point, and had to use planks as short as 12" to make sure I had enough wood.  Even so, I ended up having to mix red and white oak to get all the wood I needed.

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I selected the boards for the bookmatched panels first, choosing those that had a good combination of grain patterns and nails holes.  I straightened one edge with the tracksaw, and then joined them with 4mm dominoes.  I jointed one side flat with a no. 8, but left them thick until I had an exact size for the door panel slot in the frame members:

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The boards for the case were then ripped to width, and I dominoed the verticals as a pair to ensure level alignment (those boards on either end are just scrap pinned with a 23 gauge nailer to keep the boards aligned):

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Clamped up the case, and then moved on to the doors:

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For a while I've been visualizing this image in my head of a curved door panel, so I decided to try to realize it on this project (I've subsequently figured out after my wife pointed it out that I was imaging, albeit poorly, an art nouveau design technique).

I made a template out of 1/4 MDF (I think now the curve should have been more exaggerated, but I was limited by the scrap I had to work with):

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Traced it onto one of the offcuts, and did a rough cut out of 4 pieces with the Carvex -- you'll see I had to take care to avoid crossing the prominent split that went down the center of that board, representing the point where the grain dipped back up (whatever you call the diameter line of the rings on a tree):

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Then I reapplied the template to each piece with double sided tape, and routed the pattern flush on the router table:

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I decided only to do a curve on two pieces for each frame, rather than make another template to curve the smaller pieces, which, in my opinion, would have detracted from the natural beauty of the bookmatched panel by obscuring more of it, and so I just cut some regular shaped rails for the horizontal pieces:

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I dominoed the frame members and dry fit them with clamps so I could cut the slot for the panel on the router table:

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Knowing now the thickness I needed, I planed the panels down to size, taking care to remove an equal amount of material from both sides so I didn't expose the dominoes on the edge joint:

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To size the panels to account for the curves, I traced and cut a template on plywood:

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Which I then attached to the panels with double sided tape, and cut them out with a template guide bushing on the OF1400 that added slightly less than the depth of the slot:

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[EDIT: Continued in next post after images didn't post]
47
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: TSC 55 performance question.
« Last post by Cheese on Yesterday at 06:07 PM »
So the two batteries do not drain proportionally? The top one is used up first?

On my TSC, the top battery is always 1 charge level lower than the bottom battery. Even when both batteries are recharged and at the same level, after using the saw for a bit, the top battery is once again 1 charge level lower. I assumed it was by design.  [eek]
48
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Fein 50 years of oscillating
« Last post by Shane Holland on Yesterday at 04:45 PM »
Are these available in the USA? @Shane Holland

We've not gotten an announcement about them, but I will check and post back.
49
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: TSC 55 performance question.
« Last post by Gregor on Yesterday at 04:41 PM »
So the two batteries do not drain proportionally? The top one is used up first?
Would only make sense in case one is only tapped when the saw detects a high load, but as it would be way simpler to just put them both in series (to get a higher voltage so the drivers need to shunt less ampere for the same effective power) I would be very surprised in case the TSC works that way.
50
General Friendly Chat / Re: Random anecdote about eBay scam
« Last post by Gregor on Yesterday at 04:33 PM »
Interesting, thanks for posting.  I wonder how they manage to obtain legitimate tracking numbers heading to the same town at the correct timeframe?
I wonder if tracking numbers are sequential or have origin or destination areas encrypted in them.
Most parcel companies tracking numbers are predictable in sequence (especially these days where the tracking numbers are no longer preprinted on blank forms that are distributed all over the globed and then be used in unpredictable order, but generated on demand by their central server) and their online tracking interfaces ask for the destination zip before they show you the details of the package (and throw an error in case you enter the wrong one).

This can easily be scripted with one (or two) dozend lines of code: generate a tracking number from thin air (be it random or educated guess), curl the webpage with tracking # and target zip, rinse and repeat until no error message.
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