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I just received my OF 1010.

The dust port is oval ? So how can I connect my dust hose (round) to the router ?

thank you.
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Stupid question, gonna ask anyway
« Last post by Gregor on Today at 05:09 AM »
Am I right to assume that you can use the new df 500 connectors with my xl and a Seneca adapter? I know I should be able to but just checking to make sure I am not missing something.
You won't need the seneca adapter as the new connectors are D8mm, which is a standard 700XL size (the smallest).
So will the Bluetooth batteries always be a la carte? For example, will the HKC or other cordless tools be offered with them ? or will you have to buy the bare tool , and charger/batteries separate?
Ask Festool / Re: Becoming Online Dealer / Reseller
« Last post by Gregor on Today at 03:49 AM »
@Festool USA

The recent question was asked about being dealer in South Africa, so reaching out to the Festool USA may not get him where he needs to be.  Then again you would know better than me.
I would expect the festoolusa guys to be smart enough to helpfully forward such a request to the german headquarters.
There exists a #3101411 (bessey number) set that contains all the black plastic parts (1 end, 4 rail, 3 jaw) for the KR/KRV ones (should be compatible with the new revolution, but I didn't check as I don't have revolution ones yet), retails here for ~7.5€ (incl. VAT).

US an Canda should be able to get the rail pads individually (in 24 pcs. packs:, a quick mail to bessey US/CA should yield the contact information of a retailer that carries (or at least will order) them.
Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / LR32 Jig for $0.06
« Last post by jkanter on Today at 03:27 AM »
So I'm putting together a single closet for my new kid's room and there no way I could justify an LR32 kit.  I got a holey rail when I bought my track saw so I've been trying to come up with a good way to reliably make these holes.  I'm sure there are plenty online but many of them are complicated and I needed something simple from a timing perspective.

Now, just recently I got a pack of my favorite new shop tool...1/4" Dart Tips!  These Tufflex II 1/4" are awesome to create quick drying boards for painting, plugging holes when spraying laquer or anything else around the shop!  Best thing is that it's $5.58 for a pack of 100!!!  The headline might have been clickbait because you need to buy 100 pack...but you'll use these things everywhere.   I realized they had a flat side to each at the thick, sturdy base and got an idea.  The flat part of the dart first PERFECTLY into the Holy Rail holes.  It's even not-circular as you'd expect from those holes.  A simple, quick and easy 6cent rail connector.

I'm sure you could use these to make some of the edge alignment pieces and stuff...but in the meantime, I just use a rail dog screwed to the bottom of the track to reference the back.  I can now make perfectly evenly spaced and level cuts on both sides!

1) Get spare piece of 1/2" plywood.  Mine measures 2"x4"...though side means NOTHING.  The 1/2" birch I used is almost exactly the width of the holy rail hole channel.
2) 8mm hole in side bottom corner of of the piece of wood.

3) Drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the wood on the opposite side of your 8mm hole
4) Cut down the tip of the dart to the flat base
5) Glue the dart bottom into the 1/4" hole making sure that the flat part is parallel to the edge touching the board
6) Slide onto the guide stop rails
7) Slide a Guide Dog or something you can screw to the bottom channel of the track as a reference point.  This needs to be tight so the reference stays the same for the holes on the other side of the board.
7) Slide Router on and start using per the video!

Test Result:

I'm sure people have done this before...but I was pretty proud of myself :)  This certainly doesn't solve many of the problems the LR32 system does...but it's at least cheaper than most and can give you a solid result.  Thoughts?  ENJOY!

- Jared
Those "nails,"as you call them are not really nails at all. They are called "snap ties," and are used to tie the inside and outside wall forms a set distance apart until the concrete has been poured and hardens.  The heads you see are meant to be snapped off after the forms are removed. It's been a long time, but I think you only need to bend the head back and forth a time or two with a hammer and they'll break off.
The simple answer is No, as others have mentioned. I use mine very well for small pieces or detailed items. However, I have had pretty good luck with long pieces when I've set up an  outbound surface for the piece to slide onto. At some point I would like to make a dedicated in/out feed platform to go around the 850 but haven't had time.
If you have a 6" jointer stick with it. Probably the more accurate option.

I think meant for a different topic??
Festool Tool Problems / Re: kapex accuracy/adjustment
« Last post by Des##NZ on Today at 01:00 AM »
jonny round boy,

Hi And thank you for the reply.

Sorry if it sounds aggressive, really not an intention (but think the directness is a Yorkshire trait), hence complimenting the forum, however I read quite a few posts and some do go rather off tangent, I wasalso hungry the time. Found some Wensleydale cheese  so now feeling a lot better.

The manual, yes read it, but as i have found out there is no easy way to get it 100% accurate, so after the cheese on toast just persevered and kept cursing.

Believe I am 99.9% there.

6 hours later and I am 99.9 too. Wish I got one out of box at 100%

Thanks again
I am wanting to buy the Kapex 120, (in New Zealand, where i live) all our standard stock timber (LUMBER) is 90-94mm, i read the specs on the machine that says it has a cutting depth of 88mm.

This 2mm undercut would be really annoying, so is there a work around eg a larger blade or something.

BTW we regularly cut timber that is 90x90 so my Hitachi C10FS cuts 100 which is all good buts it a bit old and does not have easy adjustment for bevel cuts hence time for an upgrade...


Using fine height adjustment screw will get 91.5
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