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51
Festool Wish List / Re: Autonomous orbital sander
« Last post by Gregor on Yesterday at 04:26 PM »
Personally I thought your hint was supporting the statement that sales would be too low. In effect asking / suggesting that not that many of you own a CNC router table so how could one possibly expect to sell very many auto sanders.
In case it would also accept an OF 1400 to be useable as a CNC router... there could be a market.
52
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Fein 50 years of oscillating
« Last post by Trevin on Yesterday at 04:19 PM »
Are these available in the USA? @Shane Holland

Trevin
53
Festool How To... / Re: Level work table (How to?)
« Last post by Gregor on Yesterday at 04:04 PM »
I agree, it dosn't need to be level (within reason, in case the slope of the floor is to high then it wouldn't be fun as your stuff would glide off your tables). The worktables just should be flat in themselves and in case you have several of them that you combined (like using an MFT as an in/outfeed for a CMS or as support for a Kapex) their surfaces should just be on one plane.

So should the garage floor (or whatever you have below you) be slightly sloped but straight in itself (not wobbly) you shouldn't have a problem.
54
Member Projects / Re: Mid Century Modern credenza
« Last post by Peter Halle on Yesterday at 03:59 PM »
Maybe you can make a matching retro enclosure for the tv and even install some fake rabbit ears.

Peter
55
The pump will have it a bit easier to pump against the ouside air pressure, so it'll possibly generate a higher (or lower, to be precise, when measured in mbar absolute) end pressure - but might not generate the same pressure differential as on sea level.

As the clamping force is a function of the pressure differential between the outside and the (lower pressured) inside of the suction cup (times the surface area), having a reduced outside pressure (you have ~80% of what is at sea level) will result in a reduced clamping force.

My guess would be that at your height you'll end up with somewhere between ~3/4 to ~2/3 of the clamping pressure the system can generate at sea level. In case you havn't had bought it yet you might want to think about skipping the festool VAC-SYS pump (that cuts out around 300mbar absolute, in case I read the spec correctly) and get one that can generate <=30mbar absolute - that should fully compensate the lower outside air pressure. Models to look for would be single-stage oiled pumps (like used to evacuate cooling devices like regridgerators) or double-stage oilfree membrane pumps (chemical lab types should do), 100% duty cycle ones should be prefered. Oil based pumps are cheaper and, as long as you keep the oil in shape, quite durable.

You could also get the festool pump and, in case the clamping pressure from it isn't satisfying, return it within 15 days and then get a better (in terms of lower absolute end pressure) one.
56
Festool Tool Reviews / Re: Rubin!
« Last post by leakyroof on Yesterday at 03:49 PM »
I just came across a sample pack of Granat.  It is better than Rubin for the initial cut, but it does seem to wear out quicker.  It seems to me that Rubin does not cut as quickly, but lasts longer and Granat cuts quicker, but doesn't last as long.

Regardless, I have a whole Systainer full of Rubin.  It's gonna be awhile for Granat.
  I think Rubin 2 is better than the first version was.  The original Rubin for me cut okay through a Disc's life,but performance dropped off pretty fast in cutting ability as compared to either Rubin 2[Current Rubin] or Granat.
 I kind of saw the same thing with the now-gone Cristal as compared to Granat. Very good cutting action at first but didn't last as long as a disc of Granat for me.
 Saphir is sort of in its own league these days.... [smile]
57
Festool Tool Problems / Re: TS55 REBQ - major issues when bevel cutting
« Last post by Gregor on Yesterday at 03:38 PM »
Was at a local Festool Roadshow today and asked around a bit.

Possible scenarios for when you saw cuts exactly at the splinter guard on 90° but away from it on a 45° bevel:

1) You use a 'compatible' rail that is thinner than the Festool ones. The saw is created so that he blade will pivot (when tilting the blade to set the bevel) on an axis that is exactly 5mm below the baseplate (which is the exact height that a Festool rail adds to the baseplate), so while on the rail the pivot axis should be exactly on the surface of the material but as yours is thinner the pivot axis is below it (which would explain the outward kerf position on bevels but not on 90°).
Solution: use a rail with the right dimensions.

2) You clamp the rail so hard that you compress the anti-slip strips on the bottom of the rail to near nothing (or the black anti-slip strips or the green sliding strips on the top are missing), reducing the total height of the rail (between workpiece and baseplate) and through this you move the pivot axis to below the material surface.
Solution: clamp the rail as described in one of my prior posts (fully supported at workpiece height between the two positions where the clamps are) and only tighten the clamps to the point where you can't easily move the rail on the workpiece anymore. Don't overtighten, replace the strips in case they have collapsed.

3) The blade isn't parallel to the groove on the bottom of the baseplate (said to happen when you drop them) but further away on the front side (the side you move the saw when cutting). This leads to the saw being hard to move, binding and burning the on-cut face - by pulling away from the rail as the kerf is diagonal away from it. A non-moving plunge test in 90° should show this, if the kerf isn't 100% parallel to and directly at the splinter guard edge your saw needs adjustment.
Solution: unplug, set to 90°, use fast-fix to extend the blade, measure distance between the ends of the blade (a teeth where it vanishes into the saw housing) and the grove the saw is riding on. Front and back should be at identical distance, if they are not you can adjust it yourself (there are 4 screws visible from below the baseplate, two each at both ends, holding the bevel swivel points - untighten them, set the blade parallel to the groove, tighten) or send it in for service.

4) You sanded down the baseplate for some reason (I know, unlikely... but I heard that it happened)
Solution: get a new baseplate.

5) You have a dud saw, but the guy I talked to found that hightly unlikely as it would be difficult to impossible to assemble it in a way that would move the blade pivot axis downward below the intended point (and in 90° setting the cut most likely wouldn't be 90°).
Solution: send it in for service.

It leaves a small 90 degree lip, about .5- 1mm on the edge of the plywood, indicating the bevel cut is entering slightly below where the 90 degree cut does.
That is exactly the height that is missing in your rail for whatever reason.

You can test if the problem is the rail or the saw in a simple way:
Take a scrap, set the saw to >=6mm and 90°, then do two cuts - one with the rail and one without (be careful about kickback) without changing any setting on the saw. Measure the depth of the two cuts (in case you just did plunge cuts: measure in the center), in case they differ by exactly 5mm then your problem is in the saw, in case they're not exactly 5mm difference in dept (but less) then your problem is the rail.

Gregor
58
Member Projects / Re: Mid Century Modern credenza
« Last post by Goz on Yesterday at 03:12 PM »
I made the mistake of sending this thread to my wife and now she wants me to make something similar. I guess I could use the project to justify a bunch of new tool purchases. Right now I don't have the any way to make it! 

But seriously, love the project.  Great details and execution. 

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

59
General Friendly Chat / Re: Random anecdote about eBay scam
« Last post by lwoirhaye on Yesterday at 02:57 PM »
Somebody was trying to run a Festool scam on Amazon some months back.  They would sign up for new seller accounts and then list tools as "used" for considerably less than market value.  It looked so fishy I didn't look into it further.  Amazon seems to have caught on and eliminated those accounts now.
60
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Fein 50 years of oscillating
« Last post by jwaite550 on Yesterday at 02:45 PM »
     Looks  like corded comes in a Sys - I + Sys - I , and cordless comes in a Sys - II + Sys - I.

    Seth

Hi Seth!  First of all nice meeting you at Connect!  Hope to see you there next year.

Now, do you or anyone else happen to know if you=can get the 2 systainers for the corded tool?  I have the top kit and would like to get it in systainers.  Thank you!!
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