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Ask Festool / Re: Becoming Online Dealer / Reseller
« Last post by Festool USA on Yesterday at 09:14 PM »
An email to will lead to your inquiry being forwarded, eventually reaching someone who has the knowledge to give a good answer.

Yes, @Gregor is correct. is the best way to contact us about becoming a new dealer in the US or Canada.
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Festools and miters
« Last post by endgrain on Yesterday at 09:05 PM »
For frames and rails and stiles, the veritas 4-way speed clamps have worked real well for me.
Exciting to see that we do not need to wait a year for the new stuff. Looking forward to real-world feedback on the hoses and Bluetooth.

Seems like the abrasives are really geared to drywall.
Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Re: MFT 3 ideas for small shop
« Last post by Hal M on Yesterday at 08:24 PM »
Thanks for sharing - that's great! And thanks for sharing the part numbers.

I am assuming you still need to adjust the front to height (which is far more convenient to do)?

I find that I really need to use the front to keep the rail at 90 degrees to the holes, as when I drop the rail down "naturally" it is far from 90 degrees. This is also evidenced by the fact that when I drop the rail onto the locating pin on the front support there is tension (which admittedly takes the slop out).

I always adjust the front height and use the support when cutting.

I was able to adjust it on the guide hinge plate so it falls basically at 90 degrees now. Before this, I had more slop in the guide rail until locked.

The only thing I try to do when cutting narrow boards is add a piece of similar thickness near the front of the table so when the guide falls it has more support.  Since I moved the guide back, which helps with the hinge effect also, I have more cutting space but also greater span.  I think the support helps.  I can basically use this as a miter / chop saw as I cut some fairly small pieces. The other day I cut some 1.5”x3” pieces with a 30% cut on one side. The piece up front under the guide made it very solid.
@Shane Holland  Thanks for the quick response!
@Shane Holland  Is the only difference with the 2018 ETS 150/3/5 sanders the new Jetstream pad?  You can use up your old abrasives with the new pads, right?

@mike_aa, good questions!

Yes, the only change is the new Multi-Jetstream 2 pads. Basically.... even MORE holes.  [big grin]

The abrasives and pads are both forward and backward compatible. Use the new pad with old abrasives. Use the old abrasives with the new pad.

@Shane Holland  Is the only difference with the 2018 ETS 150/3/5 sanders the new Jetstream pad?  You can use up your old abrasives with the new pads, right?

Thanks, Mike A.
The removal of the ribbing that catches on just about everything is a plus, but the lack of a built-in power cord is a painful oversight. This is a lateral move from the sleeved hose that I don’t see helping anyone other than cordless tool users.
I guess the debate over cutting fiber cement products and them voiding warranty has been settled.....


I guess if you use the Festool blade...


Send it in without a blade in it.....(just don't list "wont cut" as the problem on the repair form [big grin])
I bought this Eurekazone UEG rip fence awhile back intending to set it up with a Porter-Cable 347 I had on hand, but when I finally got 'round to fitting the saw to the plastic base plate I found the saw's plate so densely ribbed drilling holes in any of the places corresponding to the base plate holes wasn't feasible.   Looking around for another saw to attach it I considered a couple of other options before hitting on the idea of chucking the base plate and adapting the edge guide to fit the HK.

I already had the 300mm edge guide that fits the HK so I had the two clips that attach 8mm guide rods to the edges of the saw plate.  I didn't have 8mm rod around, nor an 8mm threading die, so I tried 1/4" rod and found that it would work with the clips. 

I assumed I would get something about the design cocked-up so I made the mockup out of hardboard and alder scrap, but it turned out so accurate I may never bother to make a better looking version out of finer materials.  The rods are only threaded on one end for the brass thumbscrews.  The clips on the saw retain the rods when the saw is attached so the screws are only there as handles for inserting or removing the rods.  The alder parts are drilled at 9/32" and the fit of the rods is quite snug.  There's likely some minor parallel error with the holes but combined with the thickness of the material it helps the rods not slide out too easily.

It can rip to 24".   

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