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Various Woodworking & Crafts Topics / Re: Heavy duty hinging system?
« Last post by ear3 on Today at 07:46 AM »
Yes, normal 36", and the panels will be close to the floor so the dog cannot sneak underneath.  The caster option + stainless piano hinge might be a feasible solution, thanks.

Is this a normal size doorway, ~36" ?

Will the bottom of the gate be close to the floor so that
you could use a couple casters to support it and take the
load off the hinges?
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I have not found the saw to be underpowered for the work I do, which is mostly straight offcuts, including in 2x hardwood.  I think where the power might become an issue is in doing rips in thick boards and bevel cuts.
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I've been using my HK55 quite a lot recently for my summer carpentry projects on my house. Can't speak to the power of the HKC since mine is the corded one, but it did fine cutting a 4x6 Doug Fir post to length (4 cuts). The end of the post was perfectly square and smooth. That said, some recent cuts with my 420 rail were slightly off by maybe 1/2 degree, and I haven't determined if it's due to the rail or technique. Based on my earlier results, I'm giving the edge to technique. However, it probably would be better if the angle stops on the rail were metal instead of plastic, and a way to fine tune the stops would be lovely.


I find it a little fiddly to use the HK on the regular rails, but I'm getting the mechanics of that down, I switch pretty seamlessly from cuts using the FSK rail to the regular one now.

My main two issues with the HK is that the plunging needs a fair bit of force which makes it easy to shift the regular rail unless it's clamped, and I'd really like to be able to adjust the cutting depth while the saw is retracted for plunging.

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I do not know what the implications are, and people seem to do it, but the HKC blades are thinner than the TS blades (1.8mm vs 2.2mm).
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The HKC55 is ridiculously underpowered.  To call it a "framing"  saw is an insult to common sense.  I also have found the fsk rail to be off by 1 degree, with no way to adjust it to zero.

I am very disappointed with this saw.   

Have others found the saw to be "ridiculously underpowered" as well?  Current project plans for its use include a small deck of Trex, and siding a shed with LP SmartSide siding. The deck is already framed, other than a couple steps, so not a whole lot of PT framing members to cut.

I wouldn't expect the saw to replace a dedicated corded framing saw, but would like for it to be able to handle smaller jobs on it's own.

I've seen a couple comments on the FSK rail being inaccurate.  What is the consensus from other?  Would this be a "warranty" issue that Festool would make good on? Is this inaccuracy at all settings or only happen on miter cuts?  Needless to say, the saw will primarily be doing straight cutoffs, but accurate miter cuts would be expected as well.

Thanks again.

Clint
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Given that you already have both sizes of corded tracksaws, logic would seem to point to the HKC.  As I've commented many times in other threads, I prefer the performance and power of the TSC55 to the corded version, but you're not going to gain all that much from going with the cordless saw (other than portability), since you already have the extra power of the TS75.

One thing about the HKC -- I've found the extra long 670 FSK rail to be extremely useful, and to replace a lot of the smaller panel cutting I would previously do with the TSC after taking the time to set up and square the rail (my shop is too small to keep my MFT set up full time).  I will still do money cuts with the TSC, since the 670 rail will sometimes be off 1/64, but for casual panel cutting it is the fastest solution I currently have.

I suppose I should mention one other permutation, though I don't personally own this accessory -- adding the guide rail square from TSO products gives you speed and repeatability on your tracksaw similar to the HKC, although the saw still separates from the rail: https://tsoproducts.com/tso-products-guide-rail-squares/grs-16-guide-rail-square/

I do have the TSO guide rail square and am quite pleased with it's performance. Matching that to my FS 800 rail would probably be a good fit with the HKC, though it wouldn't be connected to the rail.

Do you find the 670 rail to be cumbersome in use?  As mentioned, it would be nicer to have the 250 and 670 rails together. The 420 appears to be the compromise between them. It'd be nice to have the convenience of the two rails, but whether it's worth the expense at this time would be the question to bee answered.

Appreciate your comments.

Clint
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Various Woodworking & Crafts Topics / Re: Heavy duty hinging system?
« Last post by Bob D. on Today at 04:44 AM »
Is this a normal size doorway, ~36" ?

Will the bottom of the gate be close to the floor so that
you could use a couple casters to support it and take the
load off the hinges?
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: CMS & Jigsaws
« Last post by MisterFish on Today at 02:20 AM »
Okay.  Thanks.
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I suggest you get the makita ones, these seem to work better (at least for me).
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Festool Wish List / Re: New, Quicker Charger for 18V Batteries???
« Last post by Des##NZ on Today at 12:36 AM »
90 minutes is fine, I'll put one on to charge over lunch!! [drooling]
90 min lunch???
If you have 30min t break at 10 and 3 as well, can I come and work for you? ?
My current boss doesn't let me stop for breaks, I have to eat while working [crying]
PS, I'm self-employed

90 mins, your obviously not self employed or on price work. Give it up 45 should be max, just bought the TSC55, did less than 20 mtr flat two batteries. (MDF 18mm).
I hope that the tool will bed in and get better life.
Any comments welcome
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