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31
Member Connections and Introductions / Hi From Glasgow, UK
« Last post by GarryM on Today at 07:08 AM »
Hi All,

I am a technician in a college in Glasgow. I am responsible for tool purchases, and, when my manager came to me and said "we have some money needing spent", I thought, "mmmm, what can we buy?" So, a DF 500 Q-Plus somehow appeared on the list!
It just arrived, and I can't wait to give it a test. I bought an assortment of dominoes also, so no stopping me!

Anyway, just thought I would introduce myself, and I look forward to participating where I can!

Cheers,

Garry
32
Festool Tool Problems / Re: Domino Mortise is too narrow
« Last post by NL-mikkla on Today at 06:33 AM »
Thanks Peter!
Good tip about the few altered dominos, will look into that if this is working for me.
33
Member Projects / Re: Headboard
« Last post by Birdhunter on Today at 05:56 AM »
Good advice. I do have a big jointer.
34
Member Projects / Re: Headboard
« Last post by deepcreek on Today at 05:13 AM »
Not knowing the design (a pic would help), it sounds like you're trying to create a glue up of solid lumber roughly 24x80".  Correct?

Your key to both initial and long term flatness is the moisture content of the wood when you do the work relative to the humidity in your shop and the humidity in the bedroom of the house.  The wood should be 6-9% from the kiln,  I have seen it at 12% at hardwood suppliers with hot, humid open warehouses.  Then I have to sticker it for months in my air conditioned shop and it may or may not be usable after re-drying.  This is necessary because when it ends up in an air conditioned (humidity removed) or heated (dry air) house, the wood will move as the moisture level drops back towards 6% so you want to be as close to that as you can before starting.

QSWO is more stable than flatsawn but it is still wood and will move.

Dominos will help with alignment but do not necessarily form an internal skeleton that resists the forces of wood movement.

Use a jointer to get one face of the boards dead flat to begin with.  Wait a couple of days before planing the opposite face parallel in case the board moves back to where it started and you have to joint the face again.  Repeat the process and if it happens again, discard the problem boards and replace them.  I don't even bother with twisted boards as they seem to be the worst about having a memory.

Use parallel style clamps AND clamping cauls to get the panels flat during glue up.

A planer is for making two faces parallel.  The only way a planer will flatten wood is if it is placed on a dead flat sled and any bowed, twisted, cupped spots are shimmed underneath.  Otherwise, the rollers will just push it down as it passes through the planer and it will pop back up as soon as it is out.

If your headboard has perpendicular ribs or struts on the back side to attach to the bedframe, you will have a cross grain situation and must allow for seasonal wood movement of the panel.
35
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: RG 130
« Last post by rst on Today at 05:02 AM »
Metabo RS14-125 works great and has good dust extraction
36
Festool Tool Problems / Re: Domino Mortise is too narrow
« Last post by Peter Parfitt on Today at 04:34 AM »
iamnothim said it was ever since he got the machine and that he has 2 x 5mm cutter, both with the same result.
Sound unlikely that this missing tip is the problem.

FYI, my dominos are always been a super tight fit, so therefor a test fit is impossible and I never do that.
I don't experience any problem with that and have enough mortises under my belt to do it right the first time and really don't need test fit

Thanks for updating me on his two x 5 mm cutters.

I keep about 4 dominos of each size which have been sanded slightly to make then an easier fit. I use these for dry test fits. Like you, my dominos are always quite tight in the holes. I can only get them in about 5 mm by hand.

Peter
37
Festool How To... / Re: Mfk 700
« Last post by robert.bradshaw on Today at 04:32 AM »
You need the Festool 499809 edge banding bit.

Also get the Festool 499749 edge banding scraper (whatever you do don't drop it---bad things happen to it)

Tom
thanks for your help tom they look just the job and a great price compared to the festool one
Have you used this yourself? Have you got any tips on using the mfk as I ain't used it yet
I don't mind paying all the extra for the festool bit but it looks basically like it does a similar thing what's your thoughts tom ? Any advice greatly appreciated thanks rob
38
Festool Tool Problems / Re: Domino Mortise is too narrow
« Last post by NL-mikkla on Today at 03:58 AM »
iamnothim said it was ever since he got the machine and that he has 2 x 5mm cutter, both with the same result.
Sound unlikely that this missing tip is the problem.

FYI, my dominos are always been a super tight fit, so therefor a test fit is impossible and I never do that.
I don't experience any problem with that and have enough mortises under my belt to do it right the first time and really don't need test fit

39
Festool Tool Problems / Re: Domino Mortise is too narrow
« Last post by Peter Parfitt on Today at 02:12 AM »
Has anyone asked if there is a possibility that the tip of the cutter may be missing?

This demo, by Frank Jaksch, shows how the Domino cutting action works.



Peter
40
Member Projects / Re: Headboard
« Last post by HarveyWildes on Today at 02:07 AM »
Dominos will do the job well - I've had good luck spacing them about every 8-10".  You can undersize them if you want, since they don't really serve a structural purpose in this case.  For me, the Dominos would be quicker than splines.
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