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51
Finishing and Painting / Re: 3M PPS adapter 18
« Last post by wptski on Today at 01:29 PM »
I finally found one. Sherwin Williams Auto paint store had one in stock. After calling several dozen 3M suppliers, they were the only one that had it.
Now I can play with my new toy.

Cheers,
JC
Reviving an old thread? [smile]
52
Festool How To... / Re: TS55 oak worktop advice needed
« Last post by Peter Parfitt on Today at 01:28 PM »
Hi Flying Swan and welcome to the FOG

The Panther blade is a ripping blade and I imagine that two of your three cuts are cross cut. I would try the Universal (28 tooth) blade as it is good for both.

Cutting to a 16 mm hole will be very tricky as you have to stop at the tangent point of the 16 mm hole. You will still have some work to do even if you repeat the cut from the other side (above and below).

The saw will want to kick back on the plunge but a slow plunge with a firm grip should work. You can use the kick back stop as a safety measure.

Taking some of the meat out with a jigsaw will probably not help much. If you were to be able to cut to within 1.5 mm of your line then that might make the cut easier but very dusty.

Is the router really out of the question? How do you intend to tidy up the two corners?

I assume that the Belfast sink has back corners which are 8 mm radius to match your 16 mm holes. I would be tempted to do the donkey work on the underside to within 10 mm of the top surface. That way you can overshoot the 16 mm holes and it will not show. Then take out the meat with a jigsaw leaving that last few mm to be trimmed with a ball bearing flush trim cutter with your router.

Peter
53
Festool How To... / Re: TS55 oak worktop advice needed
« Last post by Mismarked on Today at 01:28 PM »
To prevent kickback, this might help.

https://www.festoolusa.com/power-tool-accessories/track-saws/stops-and-accessories/limit-stop-491582

I used two when I was cutting the edges of a long deep mortise in hard maple using the TS55.  Put one stop behind the saw for the starting point and one in front for the stopping point.  Worked fine for me.  Probably easiest to gauge the placement of the stops by laying the track along the front edge of your worktop and lowering the blade so you can see how close you are getting to the two holes you drilled.

For the back cut, I would think the Panther blade should work fine.  For the other cuts, the universal or cross cut blades might be better.

Can't really advise about burning.  Haven't figured out that one yet
54
Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Re: T-track question . . .
« Last post by wimblejon on Today at 01:21 PM »
Woodwork Wizard,

I have a 'pre-production' shot (attached) and will, if you or anyone else is interested, do a few more detailed pics.
I used oak for the two V rails, which received a good coating of slippery wax and the front and back fences (18mm birch ply) are raised about 1mm off the table. I used a set square both sides of the saw blade to set up the perpendicularity(?) of the back fence - seems to be good. Thanks for the idea, I love the finished tool - far cheaper than the Festool sliding table!

Jon
55
Just received my GRS-16 this week and on the first cut perfectly square just as seen in the video.  Great product - highly recommended for those potentially sitting on the fence.  I don't see myself taking this off the rail very often as I'll use it that much.   
56
Finishing and Painting / Re: 3M PPS adapter 18
« Last post by JCLP on Today at 01:17 PM »
I finally found one. Sherwin Williams Auto paint store had one in stock. After calling several dozen 3M suppliers, they were the only one that had it.
Now I can play with my new toy.

Cheers,
JC
57
Festool Tools & Accessories / Domino on angle cut jigs
« Last post by treesner on Today at 01:06 PM »
Hey guys I'm going to be making odd shapes of birch plywood suing different degree miter joints and I was thinking the domino would help make these joints strong and glue up easier. Searching through the threads it seems doable just a little tricky figuring out the depth and order of operation. Is there any jigs sold for making this type of work easier? I'll be using 1/2 and 3/4 ply and sometimes doubling up the ply to make thicker.



58
Does anyone know where I could find a new metric version OF1010?

I'd suggest contacting your local Woodcraft dealer as they don't seem to have a high level of inventory turn.
59
Huge improvement in the noise signature of the planer...I took before and after sound meter readings planing the same wide piece of hard maple and the Byrd head was 14dbA (best recollection) quieter than the stock head.

The only real negative I can report is that the Byrd head has a slightly smaller cutting diameter than the stock head, I know this because the stops you can set with the dial to the left used to register dead on with the stock head and they are now maybe 0.008" off with the lumber being fat of the stock setting.

The noise improvement is huge. Even though I use muffs, the wife and dogs certainly don't appreciate the whine coming from downstairs.

I'm assuming that because I have a Wixey digital height gauge on the 735, the .008" discrepancy can be zeroed out.
60
Thanks! Think as a rookie do you think I will be doing lots of gouging with 80? (its unpainted).

Also, realistically how often would you guess I will I have to clean out regular shop vac...every 5 minutes? Maybe I wouldn't mind the breaks...
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