Recent Posts

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61
Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Re: MFT jig/template
« Last post by rst on Yesterday at 05:25 PM »
I've drilled probably close to a 500 holes with my 1400 and the Festool 20mm bit.  I have a 64" x 102" cutting/assembly table and have built half a dozen other portable tops and all the holes were snug for the dogs and other accessories.
62
While I don't have the M12 Milwaukee Caulking gun, I do have the 18v.  I do commercial/industrial glazing and entrances.  Gunning hundreds of feet of polyurethane caulk in the dead of winter is a hand numbing experience.  The cordless guns make caulking "almost" an enjoyable task...actually no...still a pain in the dupa, just easier.
63
Well that would be nice if accurate! We're shaping up for our 3rd day above 100F today :(

I just heard on the radio the organisers of the Australian Open tennis in Melbourne have copped it for not stopping play yesterday when the court temps hit 150F!!! The Tour Downunder cycling race had its stages cut short today and yesterday too due to thw heat, first time that's ever happened.
64
Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Re: MFT jig/template
« Last post by Mgildersleeve on Yesterday at 05:14 PM »
I got and tried out the Festool 20mm boring bit. I’m not sure how to perfectly measure the bore, but it seems great. A tall parf dog seems to have the same play in my MFT3 as the new holes I bored. The weeble wobble from the Frued 20mm was pretty drastic. The Festool bit also leaves very little burn marks.

The first photo shows the difference from the Festool and Frued bits.  Those would be the second and third bores. The second is a tall parf  dog tilted in a MFT3. The third is a tall dog tilted in a sample cut.

65
Festool How To... / Re: Back panel rabbet
« Last post by rst on Yesterday at 05:12 PM »
Just a note on rabbeting bits.  I've had the Amana Super Rabbet set, 1/2" shank that does 21 different depths for a lot of years.           routerbitworld.com/CMT-835-503-11-The-Grand-Rabbet-Set-p/cmt%20835.503.11.htm  is also an alternative. 
66
Member Projects / Re: Ipe Offcut Table Tops
« Last post by tjbnwi on Yesterday at 05:07 PM »
Just saw this---I would not make a cutting board out of Ipe.

Tom
67
Member Projects / Re: Ipe Offcut Table Tops
« Last post by Birdhunter on Yesterday at 05:03 PM »
When I was researching Ipe for my bench project, I found warnings that the wood and the sawdust can cause serious allergic reactions. I don’t know if the wood would “infect” food coming in contact with it.
68
Finishing and Painting / Re: Help on Spraying BM Advance
« Last post by bnaboatbuilder on Yesterday at 04:49 PM »
I would change to another paint with the systems you have now than spend $6K on something new. Rabbit hole of money is all I picture. BM Advance isn't that important to go through all this headache. At the point of spending that much money, just farm out the spraying to someone who can do it in their sleep. Being a jack of all trades isn't an ideal scenario.

...
As I am not doing much spraying/testing these days, due to health reasons, I have been looking at changing spray technologies. I have been in contact with Kremlin and they recommend, but there not 100% sure, the 15C25 pump. As it is an investment of approx. $6000.00 CAD, I have asked for a demo on spraying BM Advance and SW Pro Classic. I know it can spray Kem Aqua and other like products, but I want to see these 2 paints sprayed before I hand over my credit card.

Now, I have learned that Advance does not like air and spraying it with HVLP turbine can prove challenging. As per a BM tech, they recommend not thinning more then 10% as sagging could occur on sharp edges of doors or panels. Thus I've been thinning 9% in my test with water only.

I have also reduced the amount of air movement in my spray booth and moved the turntable farther away from the fans. Sprayed a couple of pieces this morning and we'll see what we getting tomorrow morning.

Cheers,
JC
69
Finishing and Painting / Re: Help on Spraying BM Advance
« Last post by JCLP on Yesterday at 04:39 PM »
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) You don’t want quick drying paint so it has time to flatten once it’s hit the surface.

You wanna spray everything horizontally so the paint can flatten better.

You wanna spray it thick in one pass so it flattens/self levels.

A HVLP doesn’t atomize many paints very well because it just doesn’t have the pressure behind the tip.   So you need to thin the paint but that’s not really ideal.

I have a Earlex 5500 and I was able to get a dead smooth finish but it was a pain and I had the filter paint a few times  190microns to avoid spitting/blockage.

Solvents, waterbourne, waterbased etc. All spray differently and different brands can vary a lot.

Example I sprayed Zinsser solvent based and Zinsser perma white water based.   I used same setup and same tip size and from looking at the paint in the tin they both look same consistency.

Yet the solvent based one I got slight orange peel and being solvent it never flattened.   Water based will often flatten after a day or two even though when it was first sprayed it looked orange peely.


I upgraded my spray system because I wanted something quicker and easier to spray with and be able to spray any paint with out worrying a HVLP won’t handle it. 

I would recommend you do the same to be honest saves you a lot of stress. 

Here couple pictures of what finish you can get with a better spray setup
I sprayed these yesterday

Very nice finish.
As I am not doing much spraying/testing these days, due to health reasons, I have been looking at changing spray technologies. I have been in contact with Kremlin and they recommend, but there not 100% sure, the 15C25 pump. As it is an investment of approx. $6000.00 CAD, I have asked for a demo on spraying BM Advance and SW Pro Classic. I know it can spray Kem Aqua and other like products, but I want to see these 2 paints sprayed before I hand over my credit card.

Now, I have learned that Advance does not like air and spraying it with HVLP turbine can prove challenging. As per a BM tech, they recommend not thinning more then 10% as sagging could occur on sharp edges of doors or panels. Thus I've been thinning 9% in my test with water only.

I have also reduced the amount of air movement in my spray booth and moved the turntable farther away from the fans. Sprayed a couple of pieces this morning and we'll see what we getting tomorrow morning.

Cheers,
JC
70
Festool How To... / Re: Back panel rabbet
« Last post by bnaboatbuilder on Yesterday at 04:24 PM »
Back to the OP's original question about an edge guide with a straight bit to rabbet the inside back, I can't possibly see how that is going to work.

If the cabinet is assembled, you can't use an edge guide on the interior (only on the exterior). You simply won't get anywhere near the corners on the inside with the Festool edge guide, 6" or so away from the corner.

A rabbet bit with bearing as shown above is the only practical way. If you want to use a straight bit, then you will need a more complex jig, template guide, etc.

Buy a rabbet bit set.
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