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61
Does anyone know where I could find a new metric version OF1010?

Thanks,

Daniel

Best thing you can do is google:

Festool 574339 OF 1010 EQ Plunge Router

Just be careful though, as many dealers are listing the router under the old metric part number, but shipping it's replacement, the Imperial model.  Call and verify with the dealer they have the metric version, and even then, it will be difficult to guarantee you will get the model you want.

I just went through this locating a 1400.  , the company was smaller and the sales guy could actually check his inventory, verifying both the part number on the box and the metric scale on the router.

Good luck!
62
I also owned the 733, and the 735 is a huge step forward as far as the automatic cutter lock and the chip blower fan goes.

I'm very satisfied with the 735 except for the knives dulling rapidly and it also produces snipe on a more regular basis. [eek] I've tried adjusting the tables numerous times but the 735 is just susceptible to snipe.

I've also been wanting to convert my 735 to a Shelix head but keep going back and forth between carbide blades or Shelix. If I remember correctly, the carbide blades were almost 65% of the price of a Shelix and they still need to be sharpened every now & then.

If you do go carbide, I'd love to hear about your results. At this time I'm still sitting on the fence.  [popcorn]
63
Are the .dxf files available?
64
I installed the Byrd head in my DW735 after using it for about 8 years with standard blades.  My experience with the Byrd replacement:

-Pretty straightforward installation, I think I had to buy a set of snap ring pliers and other than that standard tools.
-Huge improvement in the noise signature of the planer...I took before and after sound meter readings planing the same wide piece of hard maple and the Byrd head was 14dbA (best recollection) quieter than the stock head.
-Surface finish in general is better with the Byrd head than the stock blades.  If you use strong side lighting and a magnifying lens you can indeed see a very subtle scalloping pattern but the surface levels with significantly less coarse sanding than I was used to with the stock head.  As a matter of fact I bought a Jet 16-32 drum sander a few years back for 1st stage sanding and I have hardly used it since installing the Byrd heads (put one on my jointer also).
-The only real negative I can report is that the Byrd head has a slightly smaller cutting diameter than the stock head, I know this because the stops you can set with the dial to the left used to register dead on with the stock head and they are now maybe 0.008" off with the lumber being fat of the stock setting.
65
@wimblejon

I'd be very interested to see some photos of your table sled for the CMS table saw when it's all done but especially what you think of it. For small repeatable stuff I much prefer to use my DIY sled rather than the Festool sliding table/protractor/fence/stop. It feels much safer and there's no play at all in it. And the cut quality is better with the zero clearance.

Ian




66
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Domino kit cost
« Last post by treesner on Today at 12:28 PM »
Buy it from German Amazon for ~$185 shipped, you will have it in less than a week, I usually get orders from them in 3-4 days.
Can you provide a link?


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67
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Domino kit cost
« Last post by treesner on Today at 12:25 PM »
Buy it from German Amazon for ~$185 shipped, you will have it in less than a week, I usually get orders from them in 3-4 days.
Thanks for the tip


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68
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Domino kit cost
« Last post by treesner on Today at 12:24 PM »
These are USA costs

cutter set = $202
Systainer = 91
Dominoes = 138

The kit includes smaller quantities of the dominoes larger than 4mm than you can buy separately. So figure that for your 138 bucks you'll get about 30% more dominoes from 5-10mm.

So the kit is a good deal since the cutters and the systainer cost 293. So you get all the dominoes for 11 bucks.

If you don't want to use the systainers and some folks don't. Then buy the kit and sell the case.

Thanks for the breakdown and good note on selling the systainer.

I forgot about needing different cutter heads, still have my head in biscuit world


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69
@Cheese

Thanks for the link.

I have ZERO issues with my 735.  It has operated and cut flawlessly since the day I put it into operation.  The 735 replaced my 733 and the three knives of the 735 made a huge difference.

My issue is whether to replace the straight cutter head knives with a spiral cutter head. From all that I have read thus far, I may be better off replacing my steel knives with carbide ones and just move on.

Thanks again.
70
Festool How To... / TS55 oak worktop advice needed
« Last post by Flying Swan on Today at 12:06 PM »
Hi there.

I'm gearing up to fit some 40mm oak worktops. I've got a panther blade for rip cuts.

My problem - I'll also be cutting out an undercount belfast sink. As I'm not great with a router, I was going to try using my plunge saw. The idea is to drill out two 16mm holes and then cut to them. The problem is the back cut as its the only one that will require a plunge.

My plan is to do it in as many passes as it takes, but I'm worried about that back cut. I've never plunged into something as dense as these worktops before and need to get it right (I'll test on offcut first). I'm worried about kickbacks/burns etc.

Any advice on this back cut? Will it make a difference if I remove the waste with a jig saw first so that the fibres are less tight? Is a panther blade the best tool for a plunge cut like this or would I be better off with more teeth? Will it make a difference if the back edge of the blade starts in the hole, or should I just get in there!?

Thanks
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