Recent Posts

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 [8] 9 10
71
Finishing and Painting / Re: Help on Spraying BM Advance
« Last post by jmbfestool on Yesterday at 04:00 PM »
@jmbfestool - can you provide the details on your latest sprayer.  Something less stressful would be great!  Thanks!


Yes no problem.


I went from HVLP to airless because I thought if I’m spending the money I want something versatile. 

However!

I was able to get a good finish with airless but like HVLP it was stressful for different reasons.

So being rather deflated I started looking into this AAA and if I could convert my airless.

I ended up buying a spray Gun and I’ve got a compressor but I’ve orderd another one for portability which should be coming next week had to have it imported.


So I have the Wagner gun 4700 Aircoat with twin hose using airless I already had which is a graco 490 piston pump.

With a compressor capable of 10CFM at 5 bar.  Even though you only need 6-7cfm at 5bar minimum.

I upgraded graco 490 with a hopper and twin hose I got was only 7.5meters and smaller diameter to reduce the amount of paint used to prime the machine and cleaning.

Even though Graco 490 seems to be working fine for me. It’s a piston pump and does fluctuate but because it’s a decent size pump it keeps this down to a minimum I wouldn’t go for a smaller pump.
Ideally you want a double diaphram pump which has very small pulsations reducing fluctuations


[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
72
Festool 201311 was a limited run. Was a nice set though.

Look at Bessey STC-S-MFT
EAN 4008158040691

The Bessey set has the same clamps, but w/o the nasty adapter to make them fit the MFT. The low-profile stops aren't in the Bessey set however. I wonder why Festool didn't make it (201311) a permanent article.

In ebay.com here one set now, ebay number 263433130195

Before check this out, please sit down to some safe surface. :)

Hi all,

It seems this set has been discontinued. I can't find it anywhere, at lease in Australia, as of Dec 2017. Can anyone tell me where to buy it please?

Shu

 :o
73
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Bessey clamp adpaters for MFT/3!
« Last post by Coen on Yesterday at 03:53 PM »
Yeah, no inlay. Just that foam layer and everything dumped on top of that.

My set is complete.
74
Finishing and Painting / Re: Help on Spraying BM Advance
« Last post by Chris Perren on Yesterday at 03:44 PM »
@jmbfestool - can you provide the details on your latest sprayer.  Something less stressful would be great!  Thanks!
75
Finishing and Painting / Re: Help on Spraying BM Advance
« Last post by jmbfestool on Yesterday at 03:29 PM »
Maybe the word thick isn’t right I mean enough paint for it to flatten.


In his question is asked doing multiple passes. 

I found if your not getting good atomisation and do light multiple passes to build up the paint you just end up with same poor finish.   If you get enough paint on it should flatten.

You can spray vertical but it’s harder and higher chance of sagging or runs if you lay to much on.


The pictures above I posted was one just 10 seconds after I sprayed the panel vertical and then second picture when it’s dry.   The panel was kept vertical. 

Thing is I used a 10/20 tip at 140 bar pressure with 5bar air pressure.    With that I get ultra fine mist spray and it took no more than 3seconds to spray that panel maybe 4seconds.

Agreed, a single pass at the proper mil thickness is best.

The cabinet in my picture is probably 24 hours dry. The doors on the bench may be fresh.

Spraying with pieces in the vertical is a learned skill. It can go really well or bite you in the ***. It is something everyone should learn, they're are times you just can't lay a piece down.

I still contend finishing is one of the hardest parts of woodworking.

Tom

I totally agree!

I’ve spent many hours sorry days no weeks 😂 learning.

Also spent many hours researching and researching.

I recon I’ve spent £600 on wasted paint making errors and testing.

Learning your self is really a high risk.   Ideally need some one who knows their stuff and show you all the pit falls of painting.

Hate when something doesn’t go right and you can’t understand why so you end up internet searching 😂.

I’m extremely new to this spraying.

Internal paints, external paints, lacquers etc   What to use!! Drives you mad!

  Paint cost from £8 a litre to £20+ a litre. 🤣

I like lacquers and tinted lacquers to any colour. 

It’s thin so sprays really fine even with HVLP.

It’s good for build up to sand back down to get a smooth finish because it sands to dust easily no clogging.   

Nice to use on Birchplywood to get a smooth finish get rid of the grain.
76
Finishing and Painting / Re: Help on Spraying BM Advance
« Last post by tjbnwi on Yesterday at 03:12 PM »
Maybe the word thick isn’t right I mean enough paint for it to flatten.


In his question is asked doing multiple passes. 

I found if your not getting good atomisation and do light multiple passes to build up the paint you just end up with same poor finish.   If you get enough paint on it should flatten.

You can spray vertical but it’s harder and higher chance of sagging or runs if you lay to much on.


The pictures above I posted was one just 10 seconds after I sprayed the panel vertical and then second picture when it’s dry.   The panel was kept vertical. 

Thing is I used a 10/20 tip at 140 bar pressure with 5bar air pressure.    With that I get ultra fine mist spray and it took no more than 3seconds to spray that panel maybe 4seconds.

Agreed, a single pass at the proper mil thickness is best.

The cabinet in my picture is probably 24 hours dry. The doors on the bench may be fresh.

Spraying with pieces in the vertical is a learned skill. It can go really well or bite you in the ***. It is something everyone should learn, they're are times you just can't lay a piece down.

I still contend finishing is one of the hardest parts of woodworking.

Tom
77
Festool How To... / Re: Back panel rabbet
« Last post by tomp on Yesterday at 03:06 PM »
You didn't say how large the cabinet was, but here's a method I've used on smaller cabinets. Took a straight piece of 2x4, jointed so two adjacent faces are flat and square, and clamped it to the edge of the cabinet. Used that to support the router with a rabbeting bit, cutting one side at a time. The back is cut to size and the corners cut with a radius to match the rabbeting bit - 5/8" radius in my case. It's actually quite quick as I use a spring clamp initially to get the 2x4 close until I can get the clamps on it. The back panel is cut to size, the corners rounded using router and jig and the panel glued and nailed in place.
78
Finishing and Painting / Re: Help on Spraying BM Advance
« Last post by jmbfestool on Yesterday at 03:05 PM »
Maybe the word thick isn’t right I mean enough paint for it to flatten.


In his question is asked doing multiple passes. 

I found if your not getting good atomisation and do light multiple passes to build up the paint you just end up with same poor finish.   If you get enough paint on it should flatten.

You can spray vertical but it’s harder and higher chance of sagging or runs if you lay to much on.


The pictures above I posted was one just 10 seconds after I sprayed the panel vertical and then second picture when it’s dry.   The panel was kept vertical. 

Thing is I used a 10/20 tip at 140 bar pressure with 5bar air pressure.    With that I get ultra fine mist spray and it took no more than 3seconds to spray that panel maybe 4seconds.
79
ChuckM, agreed and that's exactly my position.

Got a picture
80
Finishing and Painting / Re: Help on Spraying BM Advance
« Last post by tjbnwi on Yesterday at 02:41 PM »
You don’t want quick drying paint so it has time to flatten once it’s hit the surface.

You wanna spray everything horizontally so the paint can flatten better.

You wanna spray it thick in one pass so it flattens/self levels.

A HVLP doesn’t atomize many paints very well because it just doesn’t have the pressure behind the tip.   So you need to thin the paint but that’s not really ideal.

I have a Earlex 5500 and I was able to get a dead smooth finish but it was a pain and I had the filter paint a few times  190microns to avoid spitting/blockage.

Solvents, waterbourne, waterbased etc. All spray differently and different brands can vary a lot.

Example I sprayed Zinsser solvent based and Zinsser perma white water based.   I used same setup and same tip size and from looking at the paint in the tin they both look same consistency.

Yet the solvent based one I got slight orange peel and being solvent it never flattened.   Water based will often flatten after a day or two even though when it was first sprayed it looked orange peely.


I upgraded my spray system because I wanted something quicker and easier to spray with and be able to spray any paint with out worrying a HVLP won’t handle it. 

I would recommend you do the same to be honest saves you a lot of stress. 

Here couple pictures of what finish you can get with a better spray setup
I sprayed these yesterday

The cabinet was sprayed with it in the vertical position.

I did spray that with a Fuji Q4 HVLP turbine.

You want to spray at the proper mil rate, to thick and the finish can check as it dries.

The Pro Classic I shot was not thinned, I did use an extender in it.

For the record---I have 4 systems I can choose from.

Tom

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 [8] 9 10