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81
General Friendly Chat / Re: Serious as a Heart Attack
« Last post by ear3 on Yesterday at 08:10 AM »
Joe,

Relieved to hear that you made it through.  I hope the lifestyle changes will protect your health for many years to come.

edward
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Your favorite Makita cordless items
« Last post by ear3 on Yesterday at 08:07 AM »
Yeah, I love the cordless caulking guns.  Unfortunately I already got one from Milwaukee.  Cordless router sounds intriguing, though.

FWIW I would probably be inclined, depending on battery draw and amount of nails being shot, to use 2.0aH batteries. Saves a fair amount of weight over the 5.0aH batteries etc.

For finish work the Makita cordless planner would be handy. Some folks on here just bought their new cordless router. Go to the website and see if anything jumps off the page at you. Battery powered caulking guns are awesome!
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Yes any avatar, any picture for that matter that refers back to photobucket will no longer show up on forums, web sites etc. Look good now.  :)
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Various Woodworking & Crafts Topics / Re: Fun with magnets
« Last post by ear3 on Yesterday at 08:00 AM »
Thanks for the heads up @Cheese You got me a little worried now.  The removable panel should be fine, since it will not be subject to regular removal/replacement, and will only really come off if something goes wrong with the TV lift mechanism.

I did, however, also use a single magnet at the top corner of each door on the side cabinets.  The hinges are self-closing, but because the doors are so large they needed that magnetic pull to get them over the finish line.   I guess time will tell.


I drilled the corresponding holes in the back of the panel and secured the facing set of magnets with CA glue. 


FWIW Edward...I use magnets as an invisible latch, meaning that you bring a small steel bar attached to a handle, close to the door panel/magnets and you can then open up the door. On 2 different projects I had the CA glue fail after many opening/closing cycles. This meant the magnets fell out of their drilled pockets and landed behind the door on the floor.
Thus the steel bar/handle was no longer magnetically attracted to the front of the door and thus was unable to open the door up. In both cases, the doors had to be pried open using thin dental picks while trying not to damage the adjoining panels. This was a lengthy process as the doors were attached with a pair of Blum hinges that were trying their best to keep the door closed.

I've since changed my magnet insertion process:
1. I now drill pocket holes for the magnets that are a snug press in with-your-thumbs fit.
2. I now drill the recessed magnet holes about 1/32" deeper than the magnet thickness which allows...
3. A small dab of construction adhesive to be applied to the back of the magnet before it is pressed into the hole. I've had no issues with the construction adhesive giving up the ghost as opposed to the CA.  [cool]

Nice job on the cabinet by the way. [thumbs up]
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Quickly off topic thread here.. I presume you mean my avitar is not showing?
That's strange because I don't see anything.
Will look into it.

edit: got it!
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WOW, that looks like a nice bit of kit.


For people that dont know you cant use photobucket to embed pictures to anymore. If you have in the past those are gone(about 1 billion pics have broken links now). And if you do in the future, well you get the error shown in the previous post.

The only way to use photobucket to embed pics now is to pay 400.00 a year to them, so please just upload the pics here at the forum.
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WOW, that looks like a nice bit of kit.
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Member Projects / Re: 120v v. 240v
« Last post by Bob D. on Yesterday at 07:18 AM »
For those not in NA here is the setup without getting into detail which you can certainly find online easy enough. All states in the US use the same power, same voltage and frequency that is. They have to because power is in many cases generated in one state and sent hundreds of miles without regard for state lines to homes and businesses throughout the country. The utilities are all tied together in big co-ops (RTOs and ISOs) and pool their power on the grid in service areas that cover anywhere from one to over a dozen states. The ISO for my area serves ~65M people and covers over 80K square miles in 14 states.

Today, almost every home in America should have 240V AC run to the main panelboard. I say almost because undoubtedly there are some with no power and maybe a few with 120V only that were built many years ago but the standard for anything built today would be 240V into the meter socket and on to the main breaker panel.

So, it should not be a problem to have a 240V 60 cycle circuit run to your shop or wherever you may wish to have 240V power available. As far a line frequency most breakers made for use in the USA are happy with either 50 or 60 cycle power. However GFCI, AFCI and other special purpose breakers are sensitive to power frequency and can only be used with 60 cycle power unless designed for other operating conditions. The reason is the frequency can affect the trip mechanism operating characteristics. You will not find 50 cycle power I think in the US, not sure about Canada.

My first home built in 1905 was >4000 SF and had 27 rooms of which only 6 had AC power. Most of the rooms were piped for gas lighting and those gas fixtures were still operable in 1982 when I bought the house. Nothing had been changed in the house since it was built in all those years, it had remained with the original owner and I was the second owner. None of the beautiful white oak woodwork had been painted and was in excellent condition. Five of those six rooms had a single outlet and two had ceiling fixtures. The sixth room being the kitchen had four duplex receptacles but no 240V power. Cooking was gas as was the clothes dryer. Heat and hot water were oil-fired. There entire third floor had no power at all. Only the bathroom on the second floor had power, a light over the sink and a single receptacle. All this was run through a fuse panel that had four 15A glass fuses. The electric meter was rated for 60A. I wired the whole house with a new 200A service through two 40 circuit panels, one in the basement and the other on the third floor which I used to feed down to the second floor as it was easier than trying to pull all those individual circuits up from the basement.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Festool 55req vs makita sp6000j1
« Last post by Dovetail65 on Yesterday at 06:45 AM »
If you had read this forum and the multitude of posts in almost every case the guys that own or owned both the Makita and Festool TS 55 they favor the Makita. I know I prefer the Makita and have written multiple posts stating that. I owned the DeWalt, the TS 55 and 75 and the Makita. The Makita is more powerful than the TS 55 and at a price FAR cheaper.

My Makita just fell off a second story and it cracked. I am going out to buy a new Makita ASAP.

My Makita is fitted with a Festool plug it cord and I use it on Festool tracks everyday. I have done so for I think 7 years now.

SO have no worry, just get that little Makita, use it the Festool stuff, I assure you it's a perfect comnbination.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Clarity in Advertising
« Last post by Naildrivingman on Yesterday at 05:23 AM »
Like all tool manufacturers, Festool shines in areas that others don't and is equal or marginal in areas that others excel. I own a dual head LED light with an output of 8000 lumens.  The heads are affixed to a bracket which can be used as a stand or attached to the tripod (included).  The entire package retails for around $225.00 USD.  each head is independent, so if I want to illuminate a work table on one side of the room and a work area on the other side, I have that ability.  I don't know what the field of illumination is, but I feel safe at guessing that each head can illuminate around 100 degree arc.

I like the adjustability of mine versus the fixed angle of the Duo.  I like the price of mine vs. the Duo.  I can't see the merit in spending the extra money for the Duo.  Does that make the Duo bad?  No, it's just that I can achieve the same or better results at half the cost.

So, in my opinion, Festool has a device that fits a general need, but it is not a revolutionary device.  I feel devices like the domino and the track saws rank in the area of revolutionary.  This is why my tool stable is not and will never be all one color (vendor). 
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