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91
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Whiteside -- I owe you one
« Last post by Cheese on Yesterday at 10:56 AM »
I get annoyed with myself when I notice a little something odd, but I rationlise it away. Later, realise that I have made a mistake and the oddity I dismissed earlier was a clue that I should have picked up on earlier.

This is funny...   [thumbs up]  ...because it's so true. [not worthy]
92
Festool How To... / Re: Mfk 700
« Last post by robert.bradshaw on Yesterday at 10:37 AM »
Thanks for your help I'm in lancashire
Which utters do you recommend please
I a total novice to edge trimming so any tips and advice would be great thanks rob
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The Nippur cubit-rod (c. 2650 BC) in the Archeological Museum of Istanbul, Turkey. Note the line of holes spaced at approximately 3 parmak. It is believed that these holes were used to space shelves.

Looks like a OTT opportunity whose time has come and gone:

"We'd like to introduce out latest OTT - the ark shelf spacing kit.  With this essential tool, you'll have everything you need to create shelves for an ark.  Made from the hardest copper alloys known to man, this bar can stand up to the best stone and bone tools that you have.  In order to reflect the variety of parmak lengths that you may have to support, we used a variety of fingers to create this masterpiece, including the always useful 3, 4, 13, and 14 parmak spacing which required lining up the right number of average width fingers precisely.  Rather than engraving the scale, we have inlayed it with contrasting metal, ensuring that the scale will still be readable after 2000-3000 years.  Please note that no slaves were harmed in the creation of this heirloom tool - all of the fingers used in the design and development of the tool were garnered from people who have not yet upgraded to our new line of safety-stop saws.  Don't miss out on this one time tool - if you're building an ark, get yours today."

Rumor has it that the OTT tool company that made this tool was utterly destroyed after selling only one.  The original Akkadian story centers the blame on the company itself.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Additional large surface sander for DTS400?
« Last post by Alex on Yesterday at 09:50 AM »
I also think the Rotex 150 is the best choice for the work you describe. It is excellent with removing lots of paint and larger surfaces.
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Thanks for your replies!

I've seen that the Rotex 150 is by far the best (most aggressive) one for the job, but over here it's almost twice as expensive as the ETS 150/5 (which according to the guide should also be good enough for exterior sanding: http://topcoatreview.com/2017/03/which-festool-sander/ )

In video's I've seen that the difference is in the 'random orbit' part, which allows the disc to be stopped on the ETS models, where rotex just keeps rotating. Will the ETS be good enough for removing (many) layers of paint? I dont mind taking more time on a job if that would save a lot of money, but the ETS disk seems to stop rather easy..

Hi,

    Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

       If you really want to get the paint removal job done the Rotex 150 is the way to go. It sounds like you have a lot of this type work to do.  The ETS or ETS/EC (not ETS125) series will do the job well but still much slower than Rotex especially if you run into multiple layers of paint. Switching between Rotex and random orbit mode is easy and will make quick work if sanding out some marks from the aggressive mode is required. It will still be faster even if that additional sanding is needed. I would not advocate pressing down on a sander but the Rotex 150 also has the power to allow for some additional added pushing if needed which can be especially helpful on vertical surfaces where you can't rely on the weight of the sander to do the job.  I have used RO150, ETS150/5, RO90 to remove layers of paint. I choose the RO150 every time for that task.

    There is also the RAS115 ..... that will take paint off really fast, but with less control and will leave marks and does not have the capability to sand out said marks.

Seth
96
Festool Tools & Accessories / LR32 longitudinal stops
« Last post by cfullen on Yesterday at 09:04 AM »
I have finally put together a lr32 set from ebay and other second hand sources.  But, I cannot find the longitudinal stops for sale anywhere.  Does anyone sell them separate?
97
Hi,

I recently bought a DTS 400 and it's my first Festool, used to have 'bosch green' like sanders before. The difference is huge, and I'm really happy with my purchase. However I've read everywhere that the DTS 400 is more a 'finish sander' and although it works a lot better and faster then what I'm used to, I notice that it still takes me a long time for removing old paint layers on larger surfaces. I've tried grid 40-60-80 papers and that makes a large difference, but I'm trying to find out if I should invest in another Festool (propably caught the Festool Virus..)

To indicate what I plan to use the new device for: I usually remove old paintwork, mostly on window frames, doors etc, but there's a lot of large surfaces I need to sand (sheds, fences and painted wooden panels). Especially with old paint I like to sand it all off, untill I reach the wood and then repaint the entire surface.

I've read a lot of these topics and the opinions vary but I'm currently looking towards a Rotex 125 or an ETS (EC?) 125. The EC is a lot more expensive but I've read it has an induction motor which I expect would last me a lifetime. The Rotex (on youtube at least) seems to be the best choice for removing old layers of paint but I've read some complaints about deep scratches which need repolishing.

To clarify, I'm not a professional (no surprise there), just a guy who likes renovating/painting in the weekends. Festool is a bit over my budget but if there's another device which suits my needs and adds to my DTS400 I think it's worth considering

If power is the main concern with money being a close second the Bosch 1250 DEVS  is the sander for you. Today the Bosch 1250 cost 276.00 on Amazon, but on Amazon and other sites it does sell for 250.00 quite often. So keep close watch.

It is every bit as good as the Rotex 150, in some ways better. The Bosch 1250 contains more metal and doesn't hop around as much as the Rotex in use. The dust collection is 100% as good as the Rotex and power for power there is no difference at all between the two in Rotary modes.

I do prefer the Rotex, but it's not becasue of power it's simply becasue I am used to the way it handles. Most people will prefer the Bosch 1250 Devs as it's smoother running and gives a better sand finish when it's NOT in Rotary mode compared to the Rotex. I never even use the Rotex 150 in regular mode as the finish just is not good, I only use the Rotex 150 in Rotary mode. Once I am done using Rotary mode with the RO 150  I go to my EC 150/5 then my EtS 150/3 to get the perfect finish.

The most powerful sander Festool makes is actually the RAS 180. The Ras 180sands about 3 times faster than the Rotex 150, I bought one straight from Germany. When I have large surfaces that are flat and need to be done fast I pull it out the RAS 180 every time, it makes the Rotex 150 look like a toy.  I can't imagine most people would ever need the RAS 180 like I do, but if you need large flat surface sanded flat(like the hull of a boat) and aren't afraid of sanding through wood, the RAS 180 is probably the most powerful on the planet. I only wish the RAS 180 and the 115 for that matter had through the paper dust collection.

Here is a link to the 1250 Devs, you wont regret the purchase and it's half the cost of the RO 150:

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1250DEVS-6-Inch-Random-Sander/dp/B0001408SO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501071600&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+1250devs
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Member Projects / Re: Jig for Domino
« Last post by Neal W on Yesterday at 08:15 AM »
Interesting concept.  Thanks for sharing. 

I'm guessing you usually just put dominos and pocket screws at the edges and not so much in the middle of the panels.  WOuld this be a correct assumption?
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Watch a few videos on the LR32 kit.  The length of the cabinet sides needs to be an increment of 32mm so you can flip your rail to do front and rear holes and maintain the same offset from the panel edge.  You'll probably find you will use another means to mark and crosscut.  The width is not critical and that's where you are using the parallel guides, to rip the panel to desired width. 

Indexing the holes from the sides of the cabinet are achieved by the rods included with the LR32 kit, which is metric. 

There are videos that illustrate using the parallel guides to set the rail position for the line boring so you can batch out work faster.  But the initial setting of the stops on the parallel guides is aided by the use of the rods included with the LR32 kit.  The scales on the parallel guides aren't used. 
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Whiteside -- I owe you one
« Last post by jaguar36 on Yesterday at 07:26 AM »
There has to be a moral to this story beyond just "Read the shaft", but I'm not sure what it is. 
I think the moral of the story is that despite the much publicized death of real customer service, there are still some companies out there that offer excellent customer service.  I've always preferred Whiteside bits, and am glad to hear that they also have awesome customer service too!
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