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I have about an acre of land.  Probably 3/4 of an acre in grass.  I am blessed that I semi-designed my house almost 24 years ago and a phenomenal builder took care of me.  Other than acidic well water eating things which the builder had no control over, I have been so blessed.

That is why a tablesaw is BETTER!

Just joking.  [big grin]

But a tool is a tool and is meant to be used -- well. Peter's is a very good example that we should follow.

Confession: I do not have a MFT table and so it is easy for me to say, "Chew it up." :P

P.S. Your lawn looks pretty big. Do ya still have time (or energy) left for woodworking after a day of lawn mowing?  [tongue]


I am answering this in all honesty and hopefully no hint of perceived marketing.

When I first visited Festool back in 2009 I had some tools.  I then heard Christian say time and time again "Use the tools."  I have followed that advice and I have ugly tools.  If you were to find my youtube channel (I am not pimping it here) you would read comments about "jacked up tools".  I don't care.

In 2009 I was so totally against the idea of the MFT that I would harvested on a soap box and preached against those who loved.  The reality is that the MFT/3 really made this a more realistic TOOL for others.  The 1080 certainly didn't cut it in my mind.  But one day I read a post here from Per Swenson about a finish carpenter using the MFT/3.  A couple of days later after ruminating I ordered one.

It is a cool tool with many possibilities.  It will never in combination with the TS saws replace a table saw in every aspect.  It can though in many. 

I used to travel with a Dewalt contractor tablesaw.  I don't anymore.  I did pull it out to rip pvc pickets this past week.

Everybody's wants and needs are different.  My opinion - as shown in real life images - is far different than I went to a class back in 2009 with 18 other Foggers.

Each one of those kerfs represents either experience, education, or $$$ in my case.


One thing I've seen mentioned again and again, and experienced myself, is that industrial designed seem to forget that power tools have cords, when designing the cases for power tools. If the designers do consider the cord, they seem not to realize that some users will automatically put a longer cord on the tools the moment they get them, and don't estimate that into case design.

For festool, the Systainers are slightly better than many other tool cases, but the Plug-It cords semm to need to be wrapped to a specific diameter and shape to fit in the systainers, especially for things that come in a cramped sys 1 or sys 2, and good luck if you want to just keep a the longer Plug-It cord in the same systainer as the tools.

Also, Velcro manufactures they're One Wrap brand velcro cable wraps. Thesr are wonderful for keeping cords wrapped. Maybe Festool should buy a batch in lime green and throw one in with each cord. 
Classifieds / Looking for a RAS 115
« Last post by J.Patching on Yesterday at 05:17 PM »
 I scribe a ton of items during a normal work week and am sick of using the belt sander. Anyone have a used RAS they want to part with? Let me know via PM and maybe we can work something out. Thanks!
Festool and Tanos Systainers / Re: Planex Sandpaper Systainer
« Last post by Chris Wong on Yesterday at 05:14 PM »
I didn't know that there was an insert, and a quick search yielded no results. Do you have a picture?
For drilling metal, you really need to match the srill bit to the type of material being drilled, and the type/speed of the equipment being used.

Just for general purpose metal drilling, a lot of people seem to love Norseman/Viking Magnum drill bits. These are USA made, M7 steel, drill bits with a nitro carburized surface, and a more open flute design. The same drill bits seem to also be sold under the Consolidated Toledo Drill/CTD brand, and may be sold rebranded by other companies such as Walter. The manufacturer also specs the same drill bits for drilling certain types of stainless, although only certain types of stainless.

Norseman also manufactures Cobalt, and regular bright finish HSS drill bits. Cobalt is generally for drilling harder alloys, and higher chrome content alloys like stainless steel. The Cobalt in the drill bits makes the drill bits harder and significantly more heat resistant, but it also makes drill bits more brittle, so better to use in a drill press. Also Cobalt drills are also supposed to be used at Higher Speeds, like 2,000 RPM or higher, since heat really isn't an issue but breakage is.

For other manufacturers, I like Triumph "Thunderbit" drill bits, which are also USA made. These have a parabolic flute design for faster chip evacuation. They're available in a black and gold nitro carburized finish, as well as titanium nitrate, and made from Cobalt steel. I believe Milwaukee used to sell these under the Milwaukee brand name when Milwaukee mostly manufactured they're power tools in the USA. I believe Snap-On also sold these as they're house brand.

There are also other USA made drill bit brands that get good reviews like Champion and Cle-Line.

For brad point bits, I don't think I've ever heard a bad thing about Fuller or the Lee Valley bits. I've used the Lee valley "USA" made bits and they were excellent. Both companies, from what I understand, take higher quality industrial bits, and use CNC machines to regrind the tips to a proper spured brad point geometry. Lee Valley offers standard 29 piece fractional, and 25 piece metric .5mm sizes as well as some larger sizes. Fuller offers the same and I believe some other sizes as well. I believe fuller may slso be willing to produce custom sizes if you order a certain number. Fuller also manufactures a whole selection of other specialty drill bits like plastic point bits for acrylic, and taper point bits for both hand held drilling and machine use.

There are some specialty European manufacturers for woodworking drill bits, but they're not as easy to find in the USA, and prices are usually higher.

For metal drills I would probably avoid name brand power tool bits. Most manufacturers seem to have gone to selling Chinese made bits with lower performance, at least in the USA. Dewalt might be an exception, since they're bits are sometimes German, and you sometimes see lower priced USA made bit sets from Hitachi at Lowes, but even these don't seem to be up to the quality of the above USA brands which are usually excellent.
Mine did this the other day cutting some ply for shims...gave it a good downward shake and it dropped
General Friendly Chat / Re: Finger prints don't work on iphone
« Last post by rst on Yesterday at 05:07 PM »
Preferrably....should work with beer bottle or stein also... [big grin]
Fun, Games, Diversions / Re: Ill Show Ya Mine If Ya Show Me Yours (MFT)
« Last post by ChuckM on Yesterday at 05:03 PM »
That is why a tablesaw is BETTER!

Just joking.  [big grin]

But a tool is a tool and is meant to be used -- well. Peter's is a very good example that we should follow.

Confession: I do not have a MFT table and so it is easy for me to say, "Chew it up." :P

P.S. Your lawn looks pretty big. Do ya still have time (or energy) left for woodworking after a day of lawn mowing?  [tongue]
The HKC55 is more versatile than the TSC55 imho when used on the FSK rails and it also works on your existing FS rails.
The HKC can also use all your existing TS55 blades, so you don't have to buy brand new blades.
TSC55 has better dust extraction although the HKC55 is surprisingly very good and the TSC55 will give you splinter free cuts on both sides of the cut because of the splinter guard.

Personally, I've trimmed an interior door with my HKC55 using its 32tooth fine blade and cross cut 38mm pressure treated pine with both the 18tooth and 32tooth blades without problems.
I've never really ripped with it though, only used it on 3mm plywood laid on top of 20mm pine to give it support. Used the 12tooth panther blade and it went +/- 2mm into the pine underneath and it charged through it - wasn't really a challenge but it was like butter

I did read somewhere the other day that some guys are using the Panther blade for cross cutting during framing tasks and find the saw more appropriate? I don't use the saw professionally and I've never had an issue with the 18 or 32 tooth before.
Maybe others can chime in on how effective this would be.

If you want a pure cordless track saw then TSC is obvious choice, if you want a cordless saw which works on FS rails and gives you flexibility within the Festool line then HKC.

Alternatively perhaps you can find a 3rd party adapter to attach your Milwaukee saws onto your rails as a compromise?
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