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Thanks Andrew!!!
Festool Tools & Accessories / Rotex vs ETS vs ETS EC
« Last post by Tomsim on Today at 11:20 AM »
Hi all!

I cannot decide what sander should I buy so i'm asking for some help. I'm a hobby woodworker.

I have used Bosch GEX 150 AC a lot for may projects. Its 3727devs in the US. I dont have access to it so frequently any more, so i decided to buy a sander for myself.
I also own Makita 4" belt sander. It's a 6kg beast and I dont enjoy using it, but it does the job when needed. But can also destroy the workpiece in a second if not careful.
I also use it as a stationary sander sometimes, but i may even sell it if i decide to buy Rotex.

I was satisfied with the Bosch for fine sanding (but too slow for cleaning glueups etc) so i even considered buying a new one for myself, or maybe the dual mode version (Turbo or 1250devs in US). Went to my local dealer, and saw that its not made in Switzerland any more. Its probably still good, especialy  for a hobbyst, but I decided my new sander will be black and green :) The same thing happend with jigsaw. Planed to buy a Bosch GST 160 CE, but ended with a Carvex :)

I do projects around the house. Shelves, nightstands, table, bar stool, wooden clock, bed, cutting boards...
I dont own a jointer. When i prepare rough timber for jointing/glueing i usually do it with a router and router planing sled and a track saw.
When i sand, i usualy dont go over 400 grit, only between coats. I dont enjoy sanding very much. I never sand more than 30minn, but i like a smooth sanded wood, and i like it as soon as posible.

Initialy i thougth geting a Rotex RO125 would be the best option. But than i've read that its not as stable as RO150, so i thougth gettin a RO150. More i searched i thougth ETS 150/5 would be best allaround sander because Rotex is to rough. Then i thougth the EC version is better, but than i read that its not as stable as non EC version. Then i thougth ETS 125 EC wold be best because it can accept 150 pads if needed, but has only 3mm orbit, so im worried it will be too fine sander for me, since iz will be my only sander, so ill have to do a lot of sanding to get to the finish.
And then when i gave up of Rotex, i saw this Festool video where a guy sands only in Rotex mode and gets a swirl free glosy finish... Im confused.

I know that every one of these sanders will be ok for me, but i'd like to buy the one that is the best for my needs, since it will be my only sander. They are all from 400 to 530 euro price range.
I dont have a Festool dealer localy so i cannot try it side by side. I have to order online. I also dont have a Festool dust extractor, just a regular shopvac that i use with my powertools. But i plan to upgrade to MIDI in near future.

I know this is a long post, but it may help you helping me make a decision :)

Thank you for the suggestions.

Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Carter guides for Hammer band saw...
« Last post by Cheese on Today at 11:01 AM »
For some reason, I bought the lenox diemaster 2.
 1/2" x .035 and 3 tpi

Well that's interesting, I stumbled upon that blade while I was looking for a metal cutting option. It'll cut both aluminum & stainless, you just need different tooth counts.
Sales & Dealer Area / Re: Apples to apples?
« Last post by Bob Marino on Today at 10:52 AM »
If you buy a router, do you have to trade in a router or can it be another type of tool like for example, a power drill?


Any tool - in any condition qualifies in this program. You have a 20 year old broken Harbor Freight sander - send it in. Repeat - any tool in any condition is a go.

See Pete’s response- it’s absolutely true.
Apparently Festool is using that word “tool” very, very loosely.
Sales & Dealer Area / Re: Trade Up Program - effective today!
« Last post by Peter Halle on Today at 10:51 AM »
Any tool.  Even a screwdriver or tape measure qualify.

If anything, I think the test Don did was more than real world. He basically overloaded the cyclone and forced it to produce results. The results were pretty astounding. I’m pretty slack-jawed with the results.

I’d expect that with the amount of debris that Don introduced into the cyclone and with the frequency that he kept introducing the debris that the cyclone would become overloaded. That would lead to a higher level of debris in the bag which was not the case.
   Although off topic a bit, my original UDD Cyclone and replacement unit handle massive dust input from using it with an 8" Drum Floor Sander, so if the Cyclone, any Cyclone ,is well thought out, it IS impressive how much dust they can handle.  Kudos to Festool, looks like an interesting set-up for people to use.
Like this?

Various Woodworking & Crafts Topics / Re: Really, some people .......
« Last post by Milvus on Today at 10:47 AM »
It is really a shame. How people thinks that they can take other's tools and use them that bad!

I'm only a DIYer, but I can appreciate and enjoy using proffesional tools and so my collection of Festool has grown a lot. But people even don't know the brands or the prices, and think that they can nail with the back of a driver, as a driver is nothing but a tool and they don't have a hammer on hand [crying] They even don't now that a Festool costs a little fortune.

I finally made the decission to have some not proffesional tools to be the ones to lend to whoever ask me for one. My good quality tools stay at home.

Hi all,

I have managed to break off the tab on the gear housing that hits against the depth adjustment on my older TS 55 EQ (see photo). I did not notice when this happened, and so do not have the broken off tab. The gear housing was $135 last time I looked, and obviously the saw must be completely disassembled to replace it, so costly to fix. I have thought about building up a stop with epoxy and possibly some metal, but since I don't have the missing part, I'm not sure what it should look like. Help requested:
1)  photo(s) of what the original tab looked like
2)  ideas on how to DIY fix this
3)  anyone have a burned out TS 55 EQ for parts?

TIA, Dick
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Track Saw Suggestions
« Last post by sg1011 on Today at 10:25 AM »

Thank you so much for the input!  I have some homework and thinking to do before I purchase either one or both.  One of the concerns is space and power for sure.  I'll never forget how I blew out some of the wiring in our condo years ago when I hooked up a Makita circular saw to one of the outlets.  Thankfully, it didn't cause much damage, but I definitely learned my lesson!  I went out and replaced that with a battery powered Makita.  I was leaning towards the cordless TS for that reason (along with space limitations).  If I did decide to get a corded TS or table saw, I'd have to get an electrician to properly set everything up in my garage.  In any case, thanks again for all the suggestions!
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