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31
You’re right, there is a lot of unused space in Systainers populated by the official insert. But, that also keeps the weight down. When I pack a Systainer myself (with no space wasting insert) the thing becomes almost too heavy to take down from a tall stack.

The limited size of the Mini-3 allows it to be fully loaded with steel fasteners and still be manageable.
32
Sales & Dealer Area / Milwaukee price increase Nov. 15?
« Last post by Michael Kellough on Today at 11:45 AM »
@Shane Holland an e-mail from ToolNut said buy Milwaukee before a price increase. Can you shed some light on this?
33
Member Projects / Re: Bench Dog Removal Tool
« Last post by Peter Parfitt on Today at 11:36 AM »
Hi Ron,

I have been really busy preparing for a large woodworking show over here in the north - Harrogate, in case you have been there. I will be helping with the demos of the Parf Guide System for 3 days. I am hoping to be able to do a show in Holland early next year which will be great fun although the cycling is a bit tough at that time of year.

I hope those fires are a long way away from you.

Peter
34
Other Tools & Accessories / Makita cordless track saw questions
« Last post by treesner on Today at 11:34 AM »
Hey guys I have the cordless Festool track saw and it’s great but have been considering switching to makita (have just the Festool saw and a couple Milwaukee tools) to get everything on the same battery plus I like the idea of the cordless router. One note is that I have heard just get the Festool tracks instead of makita (which I already own) but get the makita track connectors.

Comparing the Festool cordless track saw to makita,
 can you use just one battery in the saw (in a pinch) like you can with the Festool?
Is the bag dust collection as good as Festool?
Does the bag get caught on the end of the track at the start of a cut like Festool?
Can you lock in the saw to the track thought I read this was a feature when someone was talking about miter cuts with the makita.
35
Peter, another nicely done video and great idea. Thanks especially for pointing out that a CSX drill will fit in a mini, I may get mine a new home.

I think that there is a lot of wasted space in some of the tool systainers although I do understand that tools may be better protected as a result. The Mini Sys 1 is perfect for just a few things when the little old lady around the corner phones for some help.

Peter
36
Peter, another nicely done video and great idea. Thanks especially for pointing out that a CSX drill will fit in a mini, I may get mine a new home.
37
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Clamps and thoughts
« Last post by jobsworth on Today at 11:17 AM »
@Corwin

@Corwin

This is a little off topic for this thread. Where is a good plce to buy lumber/ply etc near the Tri cities area? Thanks for your help. [smile]

Sorry, but I cannot help you with the Tri-Cities area. That's on the other side of the mountains from me. I have a difficult enough time finding suppliers anywhere near me.   [smile]

Im loking to move near the trip cities (still got to sell the wife on it) They have a Windsor ply shop there. It has a lot of stuff but not everything. I guess Ill be making a road trip to Portland or Seattle when I need some and then load up the truck. I do know a nice slavage yard out near Bend.  Ive been there once a long time ago. Cant remember the name but my good friend (like family) knows right where it is. It has all sorts of stuff.
38
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Clamps and thoughts
« Last post by jobsworth on Today at 11:14 AM »
To the OP

Since you want to do picture frames, Bessy akes a nice strap clamp that works well once you get used to them. Also HF sells some cheap and nice ratcheting clamps. I used these once when I was inna pinch and needed some additional clamps for clamping up cabinet door panels. They worked really good. Im thinking about picking some up for my workshop here

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-ratcheting-bar-clampspreader-62125.html

as far as table tops, it really depends on the length , width and thickness of the top. But for something like a coffee table/end table or a small kitchen table the Bessey redo clamps will do ya right. For much longer and wider tops they will work but you will need more and prolly glue up in stages until you get the width you want.
39
Member Projects / Re: Bench Dog Removal Tool
« Last post by jobsworth on Today at 11:04 AM »
good to see ya back posting again Peter. Seems like youve been gone for  a while. paul has come and gone since the last time you posted
40
@GoingMyWay, I'd add one thing to what @rvieceli said - figure out what stress caused that fitting to crack FIRST.  I suspect that the drain line was too short and the installer forced the pipe over and held it in place as the glue set up.  Over time, vibration and pulling stress may have been the cause of the crack.  If you can, plug and silicone the cracked fitting as suggested, then re-do the drain line to mate with the other fitting, but this time, cut the PVC so that it's not stressed and has an appropriate slope.  That, and don't over-tighten the screw-in fitting.   [smile]

The pan was fine until I had to have the A coil replaced back in 2011.  The condensate line had to be cut and the PVC was unscrewed (it was originally 1 piece and all glued together when the unit was originally installed).  I think it was likely screwed in too tightly when it was reinstalled.  A coupling (standard glued coupling) was then used to reconnect the pipes.  I don't think it's an issue of the pipe being too short - there is a lot of play in the the rest of the drain line.  I ordered this coupling to reassembly the pieces.  This will allow me to disassemble everything in the future without needing to cut the pipes again.  I also bought another standard coupling and a short piece of 3/4" PVC pipe in case I need to make it a little bit longer.

The lower port is the primary drain.  It was likely over torqued and cracked judging by how little Teflon tape remains on the male fitting.  The second higher port is the secondary drain intended to direct water somewhere obvious so you know the primary is plugged and needs to be serviced.  Without the secondary you can get water overflowing into the airhandler and furnace or your plenum and duct work.  If it’s in the attic, it may eventually drip through your ceiling as well, so a giant mess.

You can use the secondary, but make it an annual ritual to clean that secondary port and the drain lines once or twice a year.  I would also add an audible alarm in the secondary pan below the unit so you have an additional warning that there is a problem.  If you sell your house, expect the home inspector to flag this.

There is actually a floor pan (fortunately) and a water sensor that kills the unit when water is detected.  I had moved the sensor out of the pan because it shut off from a little bit of water in the pan (I was totally bypassing the intended safeguard  :-[).  I completely forgot about it and the pan ended up filling up with quite a bit of water.  It looks like a little bit of water is in fact running into the plenum right now.  I used some aluminum foil to direct the water down into a cup in the floor pan.  I tried looking inside of the plenum with a borescope that I have, but I really couldn't see much inside.  I guess that's a good thing.

The cracked opening is the primary drain hole; the plugged one the secondary. You can use either. The water coming out isn't pressurized. Caulk the crack, caulk the male adapter both with good clear silicone caulk, ease the male adapter secure and it probably won't leak until after you are gone.
If you want an alarm go to HD, they sell the 'watchdog' alarm in the plumbing aisle. If it gets hit with water it screams like a 2 year old that just had its candy taken away.

I guess I should just continue using the primary drain hole then and just caulk the heck out of it?  It probably won't be possible to unscrew again it if everything is caulked together right?
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