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Member Projects / Re: Harlequin side table
« Last post by derekcohen on Yesterday at 08:39 AM »
No problem, Bert. My designs are likely to both bother and (hopefully) delight someone. Fortunately my wife likes it.:)

Regards from Perth

Derek
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Ask Festool / Re: FOG Broken....
« Last post by threesixright on Yesterday at 08:21 AM »
I get a HTTP 500 error, which means the problem is with the server
or the page itself is corrupted, not an internet or problem with your PC.

That would be an internal server error.

Now I get a white screen.

@admin maybe run a "database verify" just to be sure, might be omen for some dark clouds  [unsure]...
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Workshops and Mobile Vehicle-Based Shops / Re: Dust Collection Pipe System
« Last post by MikeGE on Yesterday at 07:07 AM »
Mario, I had a DC system similar to yours and after lots of thinking about it, decided the 3HP blower motor assembly was the only part I wanted to keep.  I designed my own collection system using 120mm steel ducting, an Oneida steel SDD, and a pair of Wynn 35BA filters and catch pans.  My shop is in the below-grade basement of my house (with no external windows or access), and I am determined to contain all dust there and not let it make its way through the rest of the house.


Here's the finished system, with room under the filters for my compressor.  The dust drops into a 35-gallon plastic trash can that is internally reinforced to keep it from collapsing.




Here is a view of the system before I added the filter box.  Although not shown in these images, I use a bungee cord across the top of the plywood that attaches to the trash can handles.  This gives extra compression between the trash can rim and the rubber gasket attached to the bottom of the plywood.






Here is a closeup of the blower assembly showing how I attached it to the wall.  I used rubber isolation mounts in compression mode to minimize the vibration since my shop is directly below the dining room.  This layout works very well and my wife tells me she can't tell when the DC system is running.




This is a closeup of the interface between the blower outlet and the filter box.  I used section of 180mm flexible ducting and formed it into a rectangle that is slightly larger than the blower outlet.  I would have preferred a straight path to the filter box, but I had to make do with the limitations of the closet I built before I had the DC components.



This is a view from the inside of the filter box showing the ducting and the pitot tube that connects to the external differential meter I use to monitor the filter efficiency.  It works well, and I noticed after a long cutting session that the meter reading was increasing.  The plastic trash can collapsed slightly and broke the seal at the bottom of the SDD.  This allowed lots of dust to enter the filter box and started to clog the filters.  After an hour of cleaning the filters, I reinforced the interior of the trash can with braces, and it hasn't collapsed since.




This is another view from inside the filter box showing how I attached the Wynn filters.

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Ask Festool / Re: FOG Broken....
« Last post by Bob D. on Yesterday at 05:53 AM »
I get a HTTP 500 error, which means the problem is with the server
or the page itself is corrupted, not an internet or problem with your PC.

65
Workshops and Mobile Vehicle-Based Shops / Re: Dust Collection Pipe System
« Last post by Bob D. on Yesterday at 05:46 AM »
Looking at the Flexaust web site they have many style hoses, connectors and other accessories.

Thanks for that link. I may now have a new source for some 16" exhaust duct needed at work.
I will have to check their pricing and see how it compares to what I buy now. I need about 200 feet.
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Workshops and Mobile Vehicle-Based Shops / Re: Workshop waste bin ideas
« Last post by Bob D. on Yesterday at 05:34 AM »
I use a 7 gallon pail with a plastic bag for garbage type trash.

For everything else I use a metal trash can which I keep the lid on and it's where anything else goes except for large pieces of cardboard packaging (I seem to be getting a lot of it with Woodpeckers shipping tape on it lately) which are broken down and taken outside so as to reduce the amount of combustible material in the shop.

I know that may seem futile in a wood shop, but cardboard ignites easier and burns hotter and much faster than wood, so I try to keep it out of the shop as much as possible.

For items like oil-soaked rags and those with BLO or similar items than can spontaneously combust, I have an empty metal (some new ones are part plastic) one gallon paint can with a lid and about 3 inches of water. That's where I place those items until I can dispose of them.

You can get a regulation oily waste can for about $60. Sounds expensive but if you have more than a home/hobby shop it might be a good choice. Ask your insurance agent what he thinks. :-)
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McMaster-Carr has a leveling caster almost identical to the Zambus. Might even be from Zambus as McMaster makes nothing, just sources and resells stuff others make. But they have a huge selection of casters.
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I can only echo what Hans says, urethane tyres can cope with not only weight but, also various floor surfaces.
I always use four or six castors per base, depending on the span and weight. I use swivel braked castors at all points, I cannot get on with some fixed, it doesn’t work for me, and causes frustration.

I always buy castors that have a single weight rating, then I can work out what I need for a certain machine.
Never just cover the machine’s weight, always go over by a fair amount. For example, if you make a base for a planer thicknesser, bear in mind the weight of the stock being machined.
I have often bought sleeper size lengths of sawn oak, and put them on the planer, the oak can get very heavy.

A bit of thought is needed when making these bases, especially for the heavier machines.
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Member Projects / I made an unnecessarily complicated drill press table
« Last post by ryanjg117 on Yesterday at 04:30 AM »
I acquired an old Boice-Crane drill press a few months back, which has served me well working with both metal and wood. However, rather than a typical table with t-slots, this drill press has a "production table" which is essentially a solid milled metal slab:



I'm going to predominantly use this tool for woodworking, but I do like the flexibility to occasionally drill metal as well. I researched some of the commercially available drill press tables out there and settled on a fairly blatant ripoff of the Woodpeckers design. I already had a few MagSwitch MagJig 95 magnetic clamps lying around, so I decided that is how I would affix this auxiliary table to the original metal production table. The magnetic switches are nice, but they are designed to be mounted into 3/4" plywood. Plus, I wanted them recessed under the top of the new table, and out of the way so that I could utilize the full size of the table. Ultimately, this meant I needed a really thick base.

I ended up laminating three boards together - each cut on the Shaper Origin - and then glued them together. Here you can see a spiffy animation of the "sandwich" along with some of the hardware:



Cut the bottom layer first. Upside down since I wanted to countersink the holes for the t-tracks:



Here can see my "cleats," which fit a bit too tight and required some sanding even though I included a .01" offset when I cut it on the Shaper:



With cleats dry fitted:



Second layer cut, this one was just 3/8" thick to provide the necessary cubbie depth for the MagSwitches:



Top layer cut:



Here you can see a close-up of the MagSwitch recess. Kudos to MagSwitch for providing their 3D STL files on their website.



And here you can see the MagSwitches in their recesses. Ended up being a very tight fit.





The easiest way to make a drill press table is with another drill press table. Here's the proof:



Inserting the threaded fasteners. My plan here was to use machine screws to "kiss" the production table on all edges, so that it could be removed and re-installed in the extact same X and Y location relative to the drill press head. I ended up applying some Loctite to those screws once they were in the perfect position.



Glue-up of the bottom two layers:



By the way, this RooClear stuff is incredible. Using it because my top and bottom layers are laminate-faced. Won this glue at an auction for a woodshop that closed down (along with a lifetime supply of Titebond). Glued together a couple test pieces before hand, and wow, I could not break them apart by hand even without any mechanical fastener.



Glue-up of the final layer, completing the sandwhich:



Here's where I got a bit lazy. I was about to purchase the Incra T-Track Plus and a bunch of sliding rule tape, but I discovered that Woodpeckers sells the drill press tracks standalone (without the table). Opted for that kit even though it has some deficiencies:



The laser engraved t-tracks are nice, but I didn't even think about their location relative to my drill press head, which was a mistake. Of course my drill head doesn't register at the "0" position on these tracks. So, I'll likely have to get some Incra tape and CA glue it on top later. Not critical.

Anyway, there you go. Perhaps the most complicated woodworking drill press table conceived?
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Ask Festool / Re: FOG Broken....
« Last post by Untidy Shop on Yesterday at 03:07 AM »
There is some sort of glitch with that topic.

Seth

Yep - does not open down here either. Tried on IPhone, IPad and IMac. Might be 'A PC' topic!  [big grin]
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