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Home Improvement & Other Projects / Re: Cracked HVAC Condensate Pan
« Last post by RKA on Yesterday at 08:17 PM »
The lower port is the primary drain.  It was likely over torqued and cracked judging by how little Teflon tape remains on the male fitting.  The second higher port is the secondary drain intended to direct water somewhere obvious so you know the primary is plugged and needs to be serviced.  Without the secondary you can get water overflowing into the airhandler and furnace or your plenum and duct work.  If it’s in the attic, it may eventually drip through your ceiling as well, so a giant mess.

You can use the secondary, but make it an annual ritual to clean that secondary port and the drain lines once or twice a year.  I would also add an audible alarm in the secondary pan below the unit so you have an additional warning that there is a problem.  If you sell your house, expect the home inspector to flag this.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: MW 1000 US Availability?
« Last post by Littleva18 on Yesterday at 07:40 PM »
any  luck on finding a vender to ship to us ??????
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Home Improvement & Other Projects / Re: Cracked HVAC Condensate Pan
« Last post by Sparktrician on Yesterday at 07:31 PM »
@GoingMyWay, I'd add one thing to what @rvieceli said - figure out what stress caused that fitting to crack FIRST.  I suspect that the drain line was too short and the installer forced the pipe over and held it in place as the glue set up.  Over time, vibration and pulling stress may have been the cause of the crack.  If you can, plug and silicone the cracked fitting as suggested, then re-do the drain line to mate with the other fitting, but this time, cut the PVC so that it's not stressed and has an appropriate slope.  That, and don't over-tighten the screw-in fitting.   [smile]
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5 Kg & 7 odd Joules of impact are both pretty small figures for breaking slabs.  It'll do it of course.  Dripping water will wear away stone too.  Eventually.  But it'll also wear away at you.

Hire a big 'un for a half-day.  Just a few Quid at most.  Either a big AEG/Metabo/Milwaukee/Kango 1700w, 20 Joule, 12 Kg or equiv Bosch GBH 12 combi or even better a bigger, harder hitting GSH hex type dedicated breaker  (Bosch, Makita, DeWalt, Hitachi-Koki, Hilti, Wacker Neumann et. al.).  This is one of the few tools where weight is actually a distinct advantage, making it easier on the operator.

While you're at it, grab a longer steel with a 25mm chisel tip.  Moil points just don't tend to last in tough going I've found.  You can readily touch it up (with a fairly "blunt" grind) with a flap disc on a grinder provided you keep it cool.  Say about 600mm length works well with L-shaped combi-hammers or maybe a slightly shorter 400mm or so for longer inline machines.  You can always drag the tool around on the chisel tip if it's getting a bit heavy @ the end of the day, but a longer bit minimises that terrible bent back in use that can do real, lasting & permanent spinal damage.

Make sure it's the tool doing the work, not you.  Work backwards away from the face, just as if you were shovelling a trench or tilling a garden:  the opposite of working with a pick or mattock.  This is where the greater mass & impact of more powerful tools becomes relevant.  Such a relatively small volume of concrete (7m3 +/-) is merely an hour or two's work for a bigger breaker, but the better part of a week (or more) with such a small tool as you've suggested! 

Whilst I don't doubt that Bobby Bosch's smallest breaker is ideal for such small tasks as removing wall tile from a shower alcove or splashback, I know without a shred of doubt which tool I'd be using on a floor.
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100m2? You don’t think that’s a big job for one person? Who’s removing all the material from the room? Anyway, a 6” chisel might do the job but you will be close to the ground. Get a longer one to help your posture.
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@six-point socket II  Oliver, Nice looking Snap On soldering iron.  What powers it and how do you like it?

Mike A.
Similar to what I have which is butane powered. Snap-on most likely upgraded from the units I have, as they are so so, but decades old. I have a small torch that I use for heat shrink and to heat the iron faster. Been looking at the Milwaukee M12 soldering iron, and when I finally get frustrated enough or find one for an awesome price I will buy one. 
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Clamps and thoughts
« Last post by earcaesar1 on Yesterday at 06:39 PM »
Did you forget to add anything?
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Clamps and thoughts
« Last post by online421 on Yesterday at 06:04 PM »
I have different types of clamps,

you can consider Frontline clamps if you do table tops, I have 8 of these babies and they are great.

If you do large/wide glue ups, you may need a glue table like this.

(Attachment Link)

I have no idea where you can buy them in North America, I was surprised I can buy them here in New Zealand.

The longest they come is over 12 ft. pretty impressive.

They are my favourite clamp, deep throat (125mm for 40mmx10mm bar section) and very heavily built.


It also helps if you have deep throat F clamp. I love my Urko F clamp. having Bessey sitting next to them make Bessey look like Wanna-Be clamps...

(Attachment Link)
need those giant urkos where do I buy them

I am not sure where you can buy them from in North America
I was surprised I can buy them here in New Zealand.

I use them more often than my T bar clamps, due to its deep throat and load capacity
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Festool and Tanos Systainers / Re: New Mafell Sys Workbench
« Last post by Svar on Yesterday at 05:32 PM »
No reason why you couldn’t use a coupe of them and spread them out to handle larger sheets.
So now we are up to $700 for something that is better handled by $20 saw horses?
The question here is of practicality and value.
What are the chances you'll have bunch of Systainers handy on site to build two stacks of equal height?
Then you need to un-stack your "bench" every time you reach for a tool. And I'm sure the one you need will be in the bottom sys.  [big grin]

This is also a case of extreme over-engineering. Extrusions are cool, but do you need superior rigidity, straightness, and wear resistant coating for what is essentially a disposable spacer for cutting? SYS-MFT is good enough for a quick cut, keep it simple.
I like the idea as long as the systainers can be stable enough.
For stability they should offer titanium extension feet for your systainer stack.
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Hi All,

Need remove a top cement floor, roughly 100 m2. It's 7 cm concrete (top layer). It's pretty soft and not reinforced.

What woud be a decent length for a SDS Max Chisel?

FYI. It's not a rush job, I have 8 weeks (and a Bosch GSH 5 CE). So im thinking a few hours a week, no interest in wrecking my back  ;).

I'm guessing the longer the better? But maybe some of you have experience and can give me a good tip (other then, let someone else take care of it  [big grin] ).

Thanks!


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