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Festool Tool Problems / Re: Another Kapex Bites the dust. Again.
« Last post by Coen on Today at 02:05 AM »
"I like to wonder why the US doesn't adopt 230 Vac and the metric system. After biting the bitter bullet once it's only savings. Or lead the way with 350 Vdc or something."

Because EVERY OTHER TOOL MADE BY EVERYBODY ELSE lasts for endless years on 110V in the US, and we don't need to retrofit the largest consumer market in the world over one bad product.

Lol, we retrofitted our entire country decades ago. Now pure savings. Double the power over the same copper, half the copper for the same power or half the losses with the same copper.  [tongue]

Fooled you.

I've been kicking around the idea of using aluminum extrusion for SysPorts and finally found a (relatively) affordable vendor: Misumi. This design uses their 30x30mm extrusions, which are significantly more affordable than the next size up (40x40) yet plenty strong for this application. I'm expecting the extrusions to cost in the ballpark of $500 for this project, which really isn't bad and significantly less expensive than 80/20 Inc. Of course, it's the fittings that kill you, but I'm using either the most affordable brackets Misumi offers or re-using some existing hardware (t-nuts, screws, etc) to try to keep the costs down.

I've sized this to perfectly house the Kapex in the middle, with the plywood overhang mating right up against the edges of the Kapex work surface. Height of the miter saw mount can be adjusted easily, and also replaced in the future for a different saw. I toyed with some dust collection shrouds or a downdraft table, which I can always add later, but decided to keep it simple [eek] for now.

This is a really long assembly (almost 15 feet long), designed to take up my entire back wall of the shop. Yet I still wanted occasional mobility, so I added some ball transfer switches (which I just recently discovered, super cool as they are extremely low profile but many are able to take a lot of weight) and leveling pads that screw into the bottom of each extrusion.

Of course, the appeal of aluminum extrusions is total flexibility in mounting the 31x SYS-AZ drawers. I'm planning on mounting the bottom drawers first, then using a plywood sheet as a spacer to ensure a consistent gap between each cabinet. Spacing at the top will be variable, which is fine as I'll need to provide some space underneath the perforated top for clamps to pass through without interfering with the systainers. The spacing between each extrusion will be a perfect 427mm, driven by the CNC holes on the top and bottom plywood panels.

One problem I've always had with my homemade SysPorts is balance. My first SysPort is always threatening to tip forward if I just look at it wrong. A follow-up design I made had some hidden storage shelves on the back, just to counterbalance it. In this case, I also ended up with substantial space behind the drawers due to the overall depth of the work surface. I wanted a 22" deep countertop to allow for storage of, sadly, additional systainers along the back if necessary. I've tried to put that back space to use with some rail storage and shelves for longer items like straight edges.

I'm aiming to cut the plywood and acrylic for the flag stop with a Shaper Origin.

I'm not going to tackle this project for another month or so, but interested in getting any input or design improvements now. Happy to share the 3D or DXFs files and material list if there is interest.
Sales & Dealer Area / Re: ASavings
« Last post by TinyShop on Today at 01:20 AM »
Just a heads up that if you used PayPal to fund the transaction you've got protection for 180 days from the original sale. I've availed myself of this longterm protection twice in the last decade and have been successful in both instances.
Perhaps wanting to support an ethically-produced tool (over the sweatshop-produced equivalent) means more to more people than I thought. If so, that is a pleasant surprise.

Point well taken.
Perhaps wanting to support an ethically-produced tool (over the sweatshop-produced equivalent) means more to more people than I thought. If so, that is a pleasant surprise.
Festool How To... / Re: Domino for window sashes
« Last post by ninedude on Today at 12:51 AM »
I restore and rebuild sashes.   Occasionally we will get a job like you are talking about.   Partially it depends on how deep down the rabbit hole of window sash building you want to go, and what the budget of the job is.

Two books that I found super helpful on the topic are The Window Sash Bible and Save America's Windows by John Leeke.   If you want to do more work like this, they are probably worth reading.   Especially the one by Leeke.   Plus there are some affiliated forums on his site that can answer all sorts of questions like this if you use the search.

Those books will give some perspective on why things were built the way they were.    There are quite a few advantages to traditional mortise and tenon construction that may or may not come into play on this particular job.

The first sash I ever built, I used a window sash bit set from Infinity Tools and I used a Domino for the joinery.   It will definitely do the job.  These sash in particular were fixed in place, so they weren't likely to be subject to some of the abuse a double hung window might be.

Also worth considering is repairability down the line.   If you are trying to build something that could last well over a century with proper maintenance (and material selection), then the mortise and tenon method has some advantages.   Basically you don't need to use glue if you get it right, and you can pin the sash square with a finish nail or a peg.

With a domino you are likely going to want to use some waterproof adhesive, which usually means epoxy though I would not be surprised to hear of people using other products.    But once you seal a joint with epoxy, there's not exactly a clear path -- certainly not an easy one -- for the guy who might be tasked with maintaining the sash down the road.   Then again, if you use a domino and some epoxy, the joint will probably last at least 50 years (from what research I have done), and would probably be less likely to go out of square.

The gist of it is, if you start getting into doing sash work, you're going to have to become super proficient in all manner of mortise-and-tenon joinery.   Mortise machines, router jigs, hand chisels, rasps, and yes even the Domino will all be necessary tools for different repairs, or at least they are for me.

So, at that point, if you've got the time and the kids aren't starving (or existant), it's probably not a bad way to learn how the old-timers did it.    One benefit I haven't talked about is that if you use a through mortise, the end grain will 'poke through' the vertical sides of the sash (stiles).    This will allow the wood to breathe / dry out, which could give it a fighting chance if the maintenance is not kept up with.

If you want a good hybrid approach that will get the job done quickly without needing too much tooling, you could use a domino to make the mortise (I purchased a proper 3/8 bit from Seneca Woodworking for this, but 10mm is very close), and then make the tenons on the Table Saw (or whatever you want, that's just what I use).   So there wouldn't be a loose tenon, but the most time consuming part of the operation -- and the trickiest part if you aren't used to using hand tools -- is getting that mortise dialed in.   So the domino would save quite a bit of time there, potentially.    I've seen videos of guys like Paul Sellers doing very accurate mortises in almost no time at all.   They make it look easy.   Depending on how much material you want to waste and where your skills are at now, this may or may not be the project to learn on.

Hope that rant was at least peppered with some relevant info.   Let me know if you have any more questions.   Not sure if they are on this forum, but there are some other websites where some very proficient -- like, leagues above me -- sashmakers dwell.   They can occasionally be roused from their dark lairs.   But from what I know of those guys, they are probably not using festools.   Many of the best tools for sashmaking -- machines, really -- were made in the 1920's and before, I believe.   

Essentially there are two camps.   Guys kind of winging it in their garage and guys who hunt down the old machines that were designed to churn out huge numbers of sash efficiently.    Pretty much everyone starts as the former, and some chosen few follow the shaving-laden path toward the latter.

Seriously what is the eagerness for a Festool impact driver?  I get tools that tie in with dust collection and rail system and cms systems.  But a tool that is no different and what every brand makes for cheap.  There can't be many folks out there who's only run the Festool battery system. That would be the only real case I can see where someone would want one.

I agree...Milwaukee makes impacts that are 1/4", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2" and 3/4" drive. They will produce 50 ft#, 200 ft#, 400 ft#, 750 ft#, 1100 ft# and 1400 ft# of torque. They are offered in positive detent and hog ring configurations, There are conventional mechanical drive and hydraulic drive versions in both small 12 volt and the larger 18 volt versions. Most of them are also programmable.

Meanwhile everyone is quietly sitting on their thumbs, anxiously waiting for Festool to release their single variant of an impact driver?

What am I missing?
Festool How To... / Re: Track Saw Setup
« Last post by tjbnwi on Yesterday at 11:18 PM »
I like my MFT-3's, you'll find a lot of uses for them.

There is the 30 day return policy.

Tom, thanks for explanation

So do you have to spray the door more than once or does one "coat" cover sufficiently.  I'm shooting the medium gray color over the "white" kem aqua plus surfacer.  Would shooting the door like you suggest cover the white in one coat or would a second application be needed.

Also what can I do to prevent the micro foaming.  When I shot the backs I didn't have a problem with the micro foaming but also I was pretty much able to shoot the entire door without having to shoot the detailed areas separately.  I did shoot the outside edges first though.

My basic finish is 2 coats Surfacer (we're now using Gen II) and 2 top coats. It can be done with one, I just prefer the protection of 2.

Practice with the method I suggested.


Classifieds / Re: UPDATED: TI15, T15+3, MFT/3 left
« Last post by mprzybylski on Yesterday at 11:05 PM »
The remaining three items are still listed, everything else is gone.
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