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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Granat net or saphir
« Last post by Alex on Today at 12:31 PM »
I'd stay away from my precious doors with Saphir, we don't wanna scratch up a nice looking straight door. Use standard granat grit 60 or 80, not the net variety. After that go over it with a finer grit like 120 and finish with 180. I haven't used the net paper yet but I wouldn'ty trust it for heavy stripping. As for clogging, that is to be expected, you can't do a good stripping job without burning through some discs.
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Is there functionality to lower the suction via remote?
9 times out of 10 I forget to lower/raise suction when switching to/from sanders.

@jarbroen, no, it's simply used to turn the vac on and off. There are no adjustments that can be made from the remote.
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Is there functionality to lower the suction via remote?
9 times out of 10 I forget to lower/raise suction when switching to/from sanders.
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Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Re: Rotex Jig
« Last post by Alex on Today at 12:24 PM »
I know of no companies that made 3rd party inserts for the CMS.
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I've found the Hilti extractor to be pretty good but its big and numb to move around, the Makita one I used just didn't let me use much power through its socket.
Got a Festool CTM which I think is US equivelebt to HEPA? Anyway, its got good suction and all that but for me one massive plus is that I can use it to cart a stack of boxes about on any half decent flat site.
Being able to fasten systainers on top means one or even two less journeys to the van and less time wasted not actually working.

If you leave all your tools on site at the end of the day or in a workshop this likely wont matter but I unload in the morning and load my tools back in the van at the end of the day and it makes a huge difference to me.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / MFT Bench Dog Hole Clamping
« Last post by Mike Goetzke on Today at 11:21 AM »
I'm new to MFT slab woodworking. I had slabs CNC'd to tight tolerances to enable squaring rail to the work using bench dogs. I also planned to use the dog holes for in-line and vertical clamping.

After looking closer at Festool/LeValley/Armor bench dog clamp operation I'm now wondering if they will compromise the geometry of the dog holes? Maybe dedicate certain top holes for non-clamping operations?

Any experience/thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
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Hi all,

posted this on another woodworking forum but wanted to put it here too as I am moving to more of a Festool based setup.

That said, I mainly deal with hand-held power tools in my work like track saw, domino, router, sanders (for both space and personal preference of bringing tool to wood). Because of that my dust defense has historically been a shopvac plus dust deputy. I do have a Dewalt lunchbox planer with good chip ejection and I do have a Dewalt mitersaw that I’m trying to work out of my work flow because I hate its dust collection.

I’m tired of dragging the shopvac/dust deputy rig from tool to tool and tripping on power cords and hose, and am debating putting up some 2/2.5” pvc and some hosing around the ‘shop’ (aka garage) that I can then hook to an overhead boom to support work on my to-be-built diy MFT/box beam workbench combo.

How long can a run be from a shopvac and dust deputy combo be before suction gets too low to work well on my tools? I’m looking at getting aomething to replace my loud, bargain shopvac, like a Festool dust extractor or even a garage-specific or house central vac system that is spec’d For higher CFM and water column height that the Festools. But only if I can find one reasonably priced that also does hepa filtering. Last but most expensive option would be a Oneida dust cobra but that may be over the top vs a Festool CT26 or something if the Festool or other vac system can do 30-40ft runs with good suction.

Thanks!
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Building Materials / Re: Span charts/calculator for 4x lumber
« Last post by Cheese on Today at 11:06 AM »
I'll routinely use aluminum flats if I need additional strength without the thickness.

Here's a 3/4" or 1" thick aluminum flat sanded on the rear surface to remove the oxide coating and to add some tooth.

Fastened to it's own aluminum base, top & bottom.

Adhered to the existing 2x material with PL 400.

Secured to the 2x material with #12 construction screws.


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Still here *wink*  [big grin] [smile] [big grin] [smile]

There was just a small hick-up back in the day, long forgotten!

Kind regards,
Oliver
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Granat net or saphir
« Last post by dataz722 on Today at 10:45 AM »
I was afraid the regular granat would get clogged and be worthless too quickly to be worth it, but I may have to try it if the net won't hold up to the Rotex.  I have used abranet before and loved it and it seemed to resist tearing and cracking a lot more than normal paper, so I hadn't even considered it not being able to handle the Rotex.  I just wish I could buy individual sheets or even small 5 packs to see which would work best for these.  I don't really want to get a whole box of Saphir when this is likely the only time I would ever use it.

I tried chemical strippers and on one side of one of the doors and it didn't work well and was going to use a ton of it.  I used darn near a half gallon (at $25 per half gallon) on just one side and only got maybe the first 2 layers and a bit of the third.  Plus it really sucked to work with!  The have the doors professionally dipped and stripped would have cost over $700, hence why when I floated the idea of the Rotex it actually saved money.   [big grin]  Essentially, I don't want to deal with stripping at all.
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