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Don't really need a dado. You could simply place a front fence between the jig's base and the MFT's fence. And, instead of the MFT's stock fence, replace with a narrow (could be around 2" or so) strip of material the thickness of your jig's base (or less) that runs the length of your MFT. My fence is built off of such a piece that spans beyond the length of my MFT -- it runs under the guide rail and provides support behind the replaceable insert.
I was unimpressed with the toenailing of the Airstrike Brad nailer.  I used it once before I traded it for 3 30 packs of Gennesee Light!  Bought a Paslode and have been nailing happily ever after!  Pneumatic-like power and no delay.

Ryobi and Home Depot want you to spend more to get the angled 16 gauge driver for toe nailing. None of the battery cordless nailers are particularly good at toe nailing in 2x4 material.

If I was using it for Toe nailing dimensional lumber I would have stuck with an air compressor model.  The Paslode cartridges aren’t very cheap in Canada. 

I’m surprised your didn’t get the Hitachi canister based unit.  It’s been the favourite of reviewers for several years running. 

Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Re: MFT 90* Square
« Last post by mattbyington on Today at 12:39 AM »
I know this is an old thread but - how do you move the guide rail when it's locked height-wise (black things down)? Doesn't that lock it to the track and it can't be moved?

I have had trouble perfectly squaring mine because after doing so I have to change the height.

I wish Festool would have designed something that could move while locked height-wise (and then locked from sliding w/ the same black knob).

FYI to all I received mine and like them a lot. I feel a lot more confident that the fence isn't moving when I knock it. Would buy again. Shipping was good to and I got mine in the US (shipped from UK).

Looks amazing!!! Nice job!!

Project 1 was simple succulent boxes for the wife. Those have since come apart pretty bad. I had used Titebond 2 - it was my first project. Should have used 3. She has been watering the little guys.

So I made some new ones - in baltic birch with walnut accents.

It didn't turn out amazing but at least they are waterproof this time!

And thanks everyone for the small-parts jig help! I made that to make these.


Thanks @Corwin appreciate it!

Yeah that's what I was thinking. I'll have to stick with the domino method for now (I don't own a router yet...), I have been trying to be creative with just the TS 55 for cutting.

Although I guess actually I could make a dado w/ the track saw.

In any case, thanks for all your inspiration - really helped!
General Friendly Chat / Re: Coffee Maker Recommendations
« Last post by Bohdan on Today at 12:10 AM »
Getting really good coffee is really a combination of bean type, grind, freshness and water temperature.

And the water quality probably has an even greater effect on the taste as the disolved minerals react with the coffee granules to extract specific flavours.

This article may give you more details of the science involved.

This one tells you how to brew your own water.
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Repeatable/sustainable narrow stock jig?
« Last post by Corwin on Yesterday at 11:52 PM »
... one of the issues I am having (see pictures) is that after a handful of cuts of just a few different widths, the top rail that the piece pushes against gets really cut up and starts to deteriorate quickly.

The jig works well but I fear it won't last much longer at least not accurately. How do people solve this?

I am wondering if I use dominos but no glue, I could make the top section removable and replaceable with any straight piece of wood?

I've made a different fence with replaceable inserts, so what I use won't help. Yet, couldn't you simply place a new front fence in front of the cut up fence you have already installed? Maybe some double stick tape if it doesn't want to stay in place.

Then again, you might elect to cut a dado in the base to accept a replaceable front fence. You could cut the dado as wide as the thickness of the material you use for the front fence -- that way you can cut different width pieces from the stock to make different height fences as needed.

If you are using this setup just for narrow cuts, then you may not need your front fence. But, I can see where your front fence is useful for smaller pieces.
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