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It was a fresh cut...so I would say I cut the piece of wood 5 times.  [sad]
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Festool How To... / Re: best way to drill cups for hinges?
« Last post by tjbnwi on Yesterday at 04:18 PM »
If you plan on doing more in the future, CMT fixture in a drill press.

Tom
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Festool How To... / Re: best way to drill cups for hinges?
« Last post by live4ever on Yesterday at 04:07 PM »
Definitely a drill press and good quality Forstner would be my preferred method, but if you are without one, the router would be fine.  Many companies make 35mm hinge-boring bits that are appropriate for routers, Festool's 491077 ($90!) for example.  You definitely can't chuck a Forstner into a router.  I'm sure people have but it doesn't strike me as a good idea since Forstners are designed for much lower RPMs than a router can run. 

Kreg has a hinge-boring jig for power/cordless drills that is decent for the money if this is a one-off small set of cabs and you don't want to invest in fancier tooling.
. Had to look up that Router bit since I never knew it was even offered.... Kind of suprised it’s in a 8mm shank and not 1/2”, but I guess you can use it with the smaller Router if need be with that choice of shank size....

I think that bit comes in the full LR32 kit, contributing to the vast price difference between the full kit and the basic set.  I’m sure they figure a lot of folks use the 1010 as their primary LR32 router, hence 8mm.

And dude, as a total aside, I’m waiting for your report on the MX split-shaft thing!
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Festool How To... / Re: So, it is not squared...why? - Getting crazy
« Last post by mwbrewster on Yesterday at 03:59 PM »
Using Peter's method, how have you verified the first (reference).edge is perfectly straight and square?

you may want to make a 5th cut of the first side.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Conturo Edgebanding
« Last post by lwoirhaye on Yesterday at 03:58 PM »
1mm pvc is a real nice banding, way more robust than the thin stuff (.018").
46
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: New TS75 “Kicks Back”
« Last post by Sanderxpander on Yesterday at 03:56 PM »
... I don't see why plunging in itself should cause kickback as cutting downward, from the POV of the circular saw blade, is identical to cutting forward. ...

No, this is not correct.
To elaborate on this: then being plunged in when entering the material the contact surface between blade and kerf is oriented so the saw pulls itself down (or the workpiece up). When plunging into the material the blade is basically a fast spinning wheel (equipped with spikes) in the air that is lowered onto a surface: the moment the blade makes contact and gets initial grip on the workpiece the rotation direction (from back to front, at contact point) leads to the saw and the blade trying to move into opposit directions, as the saw is lighter (= has less inertia than the workpiece) it is suddenly being propelled (with interesting amount of force) toward the user holding it...
 
There is a spot on the baseplate of the TS 75 where you can attach a #491582 FS-RSP kickback stop, I suggest you put one there to have one at hand at all times - and actually use it on every plunge cut you do: put the saw into the position where you want the plunge to happen, slide the kickback stop in the rail and into contact to the baseplate from behind, then tighten it.

It will prevent both the saw from moving backwards (possibly gaining momentum into the wrong direction, or messing up the positioning in case you do a cutout) and also keep the back of the baseplate from lifting from the rail (as the little corner of the stop will hold it down), turning a plunge with the TS 75 into a safe operation.

It's also a good idea to clamp the rail on plunge cuts, to prevent the saw taking the rail with it in case it kicks against the stop.
I realized some of this when I thought about it some more. Thanks for the elaboration though. I will be careful doing my plunges. So far I've only had to plunge into softwood ply and I always do it slowly.
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Festool How To... / Re: Saw blade sharpening sources?
« Last post by leakyroof on Yesterday at 03:17 PM »
Ask Chip at Wood World, I bet he handles that for them and would know .
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Festool How To... / Re: best way to drill cups for hinges?
« Last post by leakyroof on Yesterday at 03:14 PM »
Definitely a drill press and good quality Forstner would be my preferred method, but if you are without one, the router would be fine.  Many companies make 35mm hinge-boring bits that are appropriate for routers, Festool's 491077 ($90!) for example.  You definitely can't chuck a Forstner into a router.  I'm sure people have but it doesn't strike me as a good idea since Forstners are designed for much lower RPMs than a router can run. 

Kreg has a hinge-boring jig for power/cordless drills that is decent for the money if this is a one-off small set of cabs and you don't want to invest in fancier tooling.
. Had to look up that Router bit since I never knew it was even offered.... Kind of suprised it’s in a 8mm shank and not 1/2”, but I guess you can use it with the smaller Router if need be with that choice of shank size....
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Festool How To... / Re: best way to drill cups for hinges?
« Last post by Cheese on Yesterday at 03:09 PM »
A drill press would my first choice because you can set the depth of the forstner bit for consistent results. Also, exact placement of the forstner bit is rather easy.
Blum & others make templates to use with a drill press.

Using the 1400 with a 491077 bit will work but it’s not nearly as easy as a drill press.  Rockler makes a jig if you decide to go with the router. 
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: When did this happen?
« Last post by leakyroof on Yesterday at 03:07 PM »
$185?! Surely there must be some more accessories hiding underneath that top level.

Yes, the rest is filled with special FT N2 anti-oxidizing gas.  [wink]
But once you open the case it will escape.  [eek]
Replacement gas is available at reasonable (as FT goes) prices.  [big grin]

HF cosmoline gas comes with a lifetime odor.

HTH
. Only a TRUE Harbor Freight shopper would know this.... [poke]
 It IS a distinctive smell, isn’t it.... [wink]
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