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51
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: When did this happen?
« Last post by Trosey on Yesterday at 02:36 PM »
$185?! Surely there must be some more accessories hiding underneath that top level.

Yes, the rest is filled with special FT N2 anti-oxidizing gas.  [wink]
But once you open the case it will escape.  [eek]
Replacement gas is available at reasonable (as FT goes) prices.  [big grin]

HF cosmoline gas comes with a lifetime odor.

HTH
52
Festool How To... / Re: best way to drill cups for hinges?
« Last post by neilc on Yesterday at 02:35 PM »
You can use something like the LR32 set which comes with a bit and the carriage for aligning it with your rail.

Or your router alone.  The typical bit for cup hinges is 35mm.  But some may be different depending on the cup.  I'm always a little worried about the router alone plunging the bit due to the potential of it 'wandering' or being slightly off.

Some will use a drill press for placement, which is ideal.

An alternative for both spacing and control is to use a drill press or hand drill and bore a 35mm hole in 1/4" masonite or plywood.

Nail that to a guide block to index off the edge for your cup hinge spacing from the edge of your door.  Instructions for your hinge will give you this spacing.  And this spacing will vary depending on your door style - inset, overlay, etc.

This technique gives you a simple template you can clamp in place and use a drill to bore the hole with control and consistency of spacing.

Good luck!



53
On a side note I have worked a 150/3 for a while and there is a difference between the 150/5 and the 150/3 for sure.

The 150/3 is marketed as a finishing sander and it truly is. It is brilliant at that and it reduces the risk of ruining sensitive surfaces.
On the other hand it is not optimal for intermediate sanding or general sanding tasks - it is far too gente for that.

The 150/5 needs a lighter touch for veneer and finishing sanding as it is a little bit more aggressive but is on the other hand great for general sanding too.

If I were to choose all over again I think I would still choose the 150/5 but it was nice to try some finishing work (teak veneer and spray painted surface prep for final coat) with the 150/3. It does a great job at that.
54
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Domino Selection Quandary
« Last post by Trosey on Yesterday at 02:31 PM »
Outdoor---use Sipo dominos

Buy the 750 mm ones....much less expensive (did not say cheap)

Use as long as material will support.
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Festool How To... / Re: best way to drill cups for hinges?
« Last post by live4ever on Yesterday at 02:31 PM »
Definitely a drill press and good quality Forstner would be my preferred method, but if you are without one, the router would be fine.  Many companies make 35mm hinge-boring bits that are appropriate for routers, Festool's 491077 ($90!) for example.  You definitely can't chuck a Forstner into a router.  I'm sure people have but it doesn't strike me as a good idea since Forstners are designed for much lower RPMs than a router can run. 

Kreg has a hinge-boring jig for power/cordless drills that is decent for the money if this is a one-off small set of cabs and you don't want to invest in fancier tooling.
56
Festool How To... / Re: best way to drill cups for hinges?
« Last post by SRSemenza on Yesterday at 02:26 PM »
Greetings.  I am making my first set of cabinets and plan to use cup hinges.  I request your advice on the best way to bore the 35mm hole for the cup.  I'm inclined to think that using my OF1400 router will give me the best control of both work piece and tool.  Correct?  If so, what is the best bit for the router?  Is the router too fast for a regular Forstner bit?  Thanks for your opinions!

Best way is going to depend on the tools you have and working situation.

Most forstner bits are rated for a max of 500- 1000 rpm. I think slowest on the 1400 is 10,000. So probably not a good idea.

Do you have a drill press?

Are you doing enough cabinets for a dedicated jig such as the Blum ECOdrill?

Seth
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Festool How To... / Re: best way to drill cups for hinges?
« Last post by leakyroof on Yesterday at 02:16 PM »
If you have a drill press, then use a Carbide Drill bit made for drilling the hinges since they hold up better than a regular steel Forestner bit in materials like Plywood or MDF.
Router, same principle, dial down the speed since Cup Hinge Bits are large.
And yes, as others have noted, I never meant to suggest using a low speed rated Forestner bit in a Router. Was not my intent at all.... [embarassed]
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Festool How To... / best way to drill cups for hinges?
« Last post by Ulmus on Yesterday at 01:59 PM »
Greetings.  I am making my first set of cabinets and plan to use cup hinges.  I request your advice on the best way to bore the 35mm hole for the cup.  I'm inclined to think that using my OF1400 router will give me the best control of both work piece and tool.  Correct?  If so, what is the best bit for the router?  Is the router too fast for a regular Forstner bit?  Thanks for your opinions!
59
Classifieds / WTB CMS-TS 75 Module
« Last post by Kerrlicious on Yesterday at 01:37 PM »
Looking for a CMS-TS 75 Module in good to like new condition.  Please let me know if you have one and are looking to get rid of it.

Thank you
60
Various Woodworking & Crafts Topics / Re: Making wooden balls...
« Last post by Rob-GB on Yesterday at 01:37 PM »
Could have done with seeing this twenty odd years ago when I had to turn some wooden balls for a job. They are really hard to turn accurately with a lathe and skew chisel. The practice was helpful on some finials I made years later though.
Great video and thanks for posting it. Rob.
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