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Ask Festool / Re: Suggestion regarding Festool Roadshow
« Last post by Alanbach on Yesterday at 12:44 PM »
The sander for sure but both really😊.
Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Domino Friction Pads?
« Last post by darita on Yesterday at 12:41 PM »
It's been a while since I saw these, but I'm looking for the sandpaper-type friction pads that stick on the work surface of the Domino.  These are the things that help hold the Domino's position while in operation.  Thanks for the help.
Member Projects / Re: Apothecary chest
« Last post by derekcohen on Yesterday at 12:31 PM »
This is a long post, and so feel free to skim through it. Who needs another dovetailing documentary?

This one is specific to the back of a drawer, and so is different from the through dovetails which one might use on boxes. Also, I have a few techniques to share, ones that I do not see mentioned much, if at all.

The drawer is one in the Apothecary chest. What has been shown before was the dovetailing hijinks needed for the curved fronts. This affects the drawer sides as well, since they are not equal in length. In fact, the length for the sides need to be measured individually.

Here is a drawer front with sides ...

It is fitted in the recess and positioned carefully (top right hand drawer) ...

At the rear of the chest, the drawer sides are clamped to avoid any movement ...

Now the drawer side length can be marked. The final length is 10mm in from the back of the recess.

We are ready to begin joining the rear of the drawer. A drawer back has been added to the parts ...

"Drop" (the gauge) for the width of the drawer back and transfer it to the ends of the drawer sides ...

Now do the same for the drawer sides and transfer this to the drawer back ...

With 24 drawers, it was quicker and easier to make up a template for positioning the tails ...

Note that the tail alongside the groove (for the drawer bottom) is not a triangle, but one side is vertical (flanking the groove) ...

Saw both drawer sides ...

Time to remove the waste from the tails. First, create a chisel wall for all the tails ...

Fretsaw the waste to 1-2mm from the line ...

Remove the waste in thin layers for the cleanest finish. Note that the Tasmanian Oak is too thin (6.5m) to confidently pare half way by hand (better to use a hammer for precision). By taking very fine layers it is possible to push through the board without spelching the other side ...

Blue tape on everything!! The drawer sides have blue tape ala the #140 trick (I wrote this up recently on my website). There are 4 layers. The drawer back has tape to aid in transferring marks (don't knock it if your eyesight is better than mine).

Transfer the tails to the pin board ...

The great thing about the blue tape method is that you only need one knife stroke to cut through. No sawing away to make an impression in the end grain. Saw against the tape. Go for it!

Now remove the waste with a fretsaw. Again, aim for about 1mm above the line. For control, hold the saw handle very gently, and saw as lightly as you can - do not force the cut. Let the saw do the work. You will be rewarded with a straight line ...

I saw away the ends about 1mm above the line ...

In years past, I used to saw to the line. I now see more value in paring to the line. What you will notice is the chisel wall around the section. I am reminded of David Charlesworth's method of removing end waste. He calls his process "tenting". In this he pares upward, reducing the waste all the time. In my method, this is unnecessary since the chisel wall protects the sides and you can see when you are getting close to level ...

Of all the aspects in through dovetailing, I think that removing the waste between the pins is the hardest. This is again where I was reminded of David's tenting method (but which he does not use in this section, only at the ends).

Again the chisel wall aides in enabling the chisel to register against the line without any danger of going over it. The chisel here is PM HSS, and very tough (and sharp!). The blade is driven at an angle away from the sides ...

Turning the board over, and repeating the manoeuvre, the result is a tent ...

I have two methods for removing the remaining waste. The first is to pare the tent, slowly reducing the angle. Since you are paring upwards, there is now danger to spelching the opposite side of the board ...

The second is a side-to-side sweep, which slices away the waste ...

Finished ...

The parts are now assembled. From the top ....

... and the bottom ...

Fitting the drawer ...

My plan is to set the drawers back a mm or two ...

Any thoughts about this?

Regards from Perth

Workshops and Mobile Vehicle-Based Shops / Re: Barn makeover
« Last post by Cheese on Yesterday at 12:31 PM »
It looks like you've got some aded storage space upstairs. Is it tall enough to stand up in?

The concrete wash tub is both a boon and a bane. They'll last forever and nothing destroys them except for a 10# maul. They do however take up a lot of room. I had one in the basement that I removed and then substituted a stainless sink instead. I still consider that a good move.

FWIW...I think you're going to need 100 amp service when you add up all the machine tools, electrical outlets, lighting and the heating/cooling draw. I think 60 amp would be the bare bones minimum.

I like to keep the high voltage and low voltage wires separate. I'd run the CAT 6 alone or in its own conduit. It may also be an electrical code issue in your area.
General Friendly Chat / Re: Coffee Maker Recommendations
« Last post by Lou in DE on Yesterday at 12:27 PM »
We have the Technivorm Grand (60oz) and drink all of it every morning (nice being retired). Whole beans ground with a Capresso burr grinder plus Peets Major Dickason blend - weigh the beans - we like 10g for every 6 oz filtered water (so 100g per pot) - the Technivorm maintains the perfect temperature - the best coffee you will ever have.
General Friendly Chat / Re: Coffee Maker Recommendations
« Last post by Oldwood on Yesterday at 12:17 PM »
I have had a Bonavita for over a year and I am very happy with it. I agree about getting the one with the glass carafe and buying a glass lined thermal carafe for storage. When I bought mine they only made 8 cup versions I don't know if that is still the case. It makes a pot in about 5 minutes so if I need more I just make another pot after pouring into the thermal carafe.

Mine is the plain version with no programing does not connect to my phone [big grin]
Festool How To... / Re: Attaching UG extensions to MFT
« Last post by Gregor on Yesterday at 11:10 AM »
See reply number 4;

Knobs hitting the MFT C-channel, RAS solved that issue.
Assuming you are referring to the RAS sander, just exactly how did it solve the problem?
I suspect by sanding away the parts that get in the way (on the knobs of the screws, not the T-slot of the MFT).
Workshops and Mobile Vehicle-Based Shops / Re: Barn makeover
« Last post by ERG on Yesterday at 11:06 AM »
I'm making some progress.

Most of the old wiring is gone and I have the old subpanel disconnected and mine is installed. I wonder if the electrician would be able to pull the old feed out and pull new wires.

It looks like 6 gauge, the current breaker is 40 amps... I think 4 gauge would work for 150 feet and 60 amp but that might be too little if I need electric heat/cooling.

For insulation I've purchased R12 fiberglass.

For the floors, I think I'll go with sleepers 12" on center and rigid insulation in between, then poly and 3/4 OSB. Down the road maybe add pine or some hard laminate.

My dogs are whippets, that's how they look... racing dogs. :)

The sink is made of concrete! I nearly lost a leg when I pulled it and its metal legs bent.
Member Projects / Re: Unique cutting boards- inspired by Scott Lewis
« Last post by NL-mikkla on Yesterday at 10:49 AM »
wow, super!
I have never seen a cutting board like that
Festool How To... / Re: Using an RO90 to Polish Plastic Headlight Covers
« Last post by Cheese on Yesterday at 10:14 AM »
Any thoughts on polishing my BMW motorcycle windscreen?  It is some kind of plastic, not sure what - I'm not even sure if it is the original or aftermarket.  There is some kind of very thin coating that has been peeling off since I got the bike several years ago.  It is mildly irritating but doesn't get in the way most of the time.  In strong sun glare the windscreen picks up the light where the coating has peeled, and I have to look over the windscreen in its low position.  Given its current condition, it's hard to imagine that I could screw it up any worse, but...  Since replacement windscreens are pretty expensive, I could come close to paying for the Rotex if I could use it to repair the windscreen.

Hey Harvey, I'll ask my neighbor who knows and owns all things from BMW. Just curious if you own the K series?
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