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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: MFT Hole Jigs
« Last post by Sometimewoodworker on Today at 11:45 PM »
If you already have an MFT then here's another way to skin the cat
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: MFT Hole Jigs
« Last post by Svar on Today at 10:39 PM »
1. Cut a sheet larger than needed for final top perfectly square.
Here is your challenge #1.
BTW, this is how I did it, but without LR32. Equal spacing is easy and can be done with a simple jig. Perpendicular alignment is tricky.
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: MFT Hole Jigs
« Last post by DynaGlide on Today at 10:28 PM »
1. Cut a sheet larger than needed for final top perfectly square.

2. Reference your lr32 off one end with the longitudinal stop, bore 20mm holes 96mm on center (every 3 on the rail).

3. Now reference off the same end with the lr32 but on the opposite side and repeat. You now have two rows of holes perfectly parallel 96mm on center. Using some rail dogs you can attach the guide rail to these parallel holes and bore 20mm holes every 3 for 96mm centers. Lift the rail and rail dogs and move down and repeat. This creates a grid of holes for your top. When you're done cut off the two rows created in steps 1 and 2.

Hope this helps. I'll look for pictures from when I did it.
General Friendly Chat / Re: Every Day Carry (EDC)
« Last post by Garry on Today at 10:24 PM »
Wallet, phone, keys.

And a g23.

Other Tools & Accessories / Re: MFT Hole Jigs
« Last post by gnlman on Today at 10:02 PM »
Hi. Douglas could you explain how you used your lr32 system to achieve this. I've only seen one method that looks repeatable just using the system, and it was running 2 rows of holes parallel down the outside of the top and using the edge guide pins to locate and move the rail down those holes while plunging the 20 mm holes across the top. (hope that makes sense)...the edge guide pins appear to be 6mm so the standard bit that comes with system would not work...would need a 6mm router bit which is available from seems you would be limited in how long the top could be as I only have the shorter rail...unless there was a way to reset the system accurately. The jig to me seemed to be a simpler solution at the time...had I known about the router/bushing issues I think I would have tried the lr32 idea first..will need to break out the lr32 and do some more investigating...but still hoping for a fix to the jig as it seems faster and easier....that is if it can be made to work..and yes I find the 20mm festool bit makes fine holes for the qwas dogs I have as well....
Thanks, Greg
Sales & Dealer Area / Re: Woodpecker Quality and price???
« Last post by DeformedTree on Today at 09:57 PM »
@Cheese those are Starrett Master Precision Squares. Add an extra zero to right of the decimal point before the one. So that’s within 0.0001”

Hey Ron, I believe the Starretts are accurate to .0001” per 6”, so that’d be .0002”/ft. The Woodpeckers are accurate to .001”/ft. That’s still pretty impressive for a mass produced item that only costs $160.

I believe a number of years ago Woodpeckers guaranteed the accuracy of their smaller framing square to be .003”/ft. So Woodpeckers has upped the ante again.

I have the 7” & the 4” Starrett squares and they really are a thing of beauty.  [big grin]

I just wouldn't go comparing the 2 brands.  One targets woodworkers, the other targets machine shops with metrology departments inspecting parts.  Starrett can charge way more, as those who need them will pay for it as part of doing business.  I don't think my company would know what to do with "woodpeckers" square and how to go about getting it calibrated yearly.

It's not a knock on woodpeckers, it's just they aren't targeting the same thing.
Festool Tools & Accessories / Replaceing plug for rs2e
« Last post by jussi on Today at 09:52 PM »
Recently picked up a used rs2e with a broken plug end. Is there anything special about festool plug ends? I don’t really want to spend the money on getting the plug-it conversion kit. Cheapest option that works is fine with me.
I’m looking for a cs70 and I’ve found a great deal on a 110v but I’ve noticed it’s only rated at 1550 watt compared to the 220v rated at 2200 why is this and is there any difference in power performance or noise etc
Thanks in advance rob

To add some to the previous posters comments.  NEC wiring for a 15 amp circuit you have an 85% rating (15% derate) for continuous loads (short term loads will pull more than 15amps, but it's not long enough to trip the breaker).  So 85% of 15 amps is 12.75Amps,   P=VA,  thus P=120V * 12.75A = 1530 watts.   Thus 1550watts on the label. Or put it another way, you can get 2 horsepower from an 15A outlet.   

This gets into the BS marketing of vast majority of makers with things like 3.5HP shop vac.  Complete lie as the outlet it plugs into can only do 2HP.  You read the find print on the box it even tells you as much that the number in big font is just made up by them.

So they base the wiring in the machine on the low voltage since thats the hardest on the wiring. For the higher voltages they get a break, and the wiring now has margin, they just need to think about insulation, which isn't a big deal for such a jump.  But they don't have to change much, they could just keep things as is and let it pull 12.75A at 208 (lower end of the 208, 210, 220, 230V spectrum), and get 2650W, but they starts getting to be a lot, so they can tone it down, or depending on the motor design they may have to rewind it to a different setup, so they might have more wires, thus shrink the gage down to fit.  Thus they drop down to the 10-11A ramp, which then means it runs cooler but still has more power.   Also inrush current has to be considered more with the higher voltage.  You also run into the specs for power in the EU where most 220V tools roam free.  You have various plugs/countries. from 13A in UK and some others, to 16A in others, some I believe get down to more like 10A limit.   So factor in some derate with lowest common Amperage and you will get down in the 10-11A range that would make a machine a 208V make around 2200watts.

Long and short of it is the trade offs for higher voltage are usually positive for the higher voltage verses lower.  You are trying to design the tool once, so you find the worse cases,  worst case voltages (high and low), and find how many amps you can get, and that drives the common design to get you devices much like you describe.  In general, aside from the cord you will generally find appliances are the exact same hardware inside.  It's built to handle all the cases and not have a failure/safety issue.

You find lots of US appliances that list something the likes of 1500-1600W because thats the limit they can do.

I use tenryu blades. They all have the same width kerf, so switching between blades does not affect my splinter guard. I get excellent results with all 4 of their blades is have (general purpose, fine finish, rip, and melamine).

Festool has top notch blades, but the panther (way back when I got my stuff originally) had a wider kerf than the other blades, which messed up my splinter guards, that affected the accuracy of my cuts.

Haven’t bought blades in 10 years, so it may be different now.
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: MFT Hole Jigs
« Last post by Cheese on Today at 09:41 PM »
My take would be to avoid all of them and use a "holy rail" and the LR-32 router attachment and 20 mm bit. In my experience the results are dead on and you're using tools you already have or getting tools that have broader use than just making MFT holes. The method that I use is an adaption of Timothy Wilmot's (of MF-TC fame) method, it is easy and reliable and if you thing you'll need to do it more than once the first pass has you well on your way to making a jig.

I’m siding with you...the Festool bit cuts a nice hole with no burning and the holey rail makes it impossible to fail. If I were to do it all again, I’d go with the LR-32 system or hire a CNC router.
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