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I hope the Moderators will look into Rick's complaint and determine if anyone is trolling deliberately or not. I welcome user feedback on products, but am not interested in any product assessments with a personal agenda.
Member Projects / Re: Installing LED strips and other LED issues
« Last post by Cheese on Today at 10:33 AM »
The other alternative would be to use the reed switch to trigger a relay, and then have the relay handle the higher current to power the LEDS. Again, a few more components, but you wouldn't have the reeds singeing themselves together.

Ya, thanks for bringing that up. That's one of the paths I actually thought about. However, because there are 4 separate cabinets, I'd need at least 4 solid state relays plus voltage in to power the relays etc, etc. Things just started to get complicated quickly. The microswitches kind of kept the clutter to a minimum.  [smile]

Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: ETS 125 EQ Edge Protector?
« Last post by Alex on Today at 10:13 AM »
Only for the REQ.

I'd try to adapt it.
Festool Tools & Accessories / ETS 125 EQ Edge Protector?
« Last post by promark747 on Today at 09:57 AM »
I have an older model ETS 125 EQ (made in 2013) and bought Edge Protector 201690.  It appears that it will not fit on my sander...did Festool make an edge protector for the 125 EQ or did they introduce it for the REQ?
First thing that comes to mind is to clamp the rail instead of the material and use Festool 488030 Clamping Elements to control lateral movement.
Welcome Alain,
to the FOG with your first post. Expect to find help and creative ideas much of the time. As a manufacturer, TSO is always keeping an ear open for unmet needs. We don't have an immediate suggestion but will follow your post and see that develops.

I'll be building kitchen cabinets in the next year and was interested in doing LED lighting as seen at IKEA.  I really appreciate you taking the time to share what you've done here, it will certainly help me, much appreciated, and great work!!
Thanks for all the advice.  I'm going to send it into Festool.  It's well out of warranty - I've probably owned it for 7 or 8 years if not more. I'd rather spend to get it fixed than destroy it myself.
I'm planning to use side mount drawer glides on this project, since it's for my shop, but will use undermounts on my vanities and kitchen cabinets.  It was my understanding that undermounts still use shelf pin holes on the side and only the offsets might be different?  I assume I do not need any mounting to the back of the cabinet for undermounts if I'm mounting the slide with 2 shelf pin holes on the sides?

I am designing my own pseudo MFT3 table.
This table is rather large : 2.40m x 1.20m (or 1.40m) ; I use aluminium profiles (80/20 or like) for the structure, and the parf guide system from UJK to create the top holes pattern.
The 96mm spacing between holes is perfect for geometrical aspects : parf superdogs to hold the guide rail, fence dogs + incra incremental flipfence to position the piece to cut at 90° or 45°, everything is fine, as I could experiment on my current old _authentic_ MFT1080 table.
The main issue is clamping : when cutting small pieces and when routing (rail guided) clamping is anavoidable if you want to be accurate.
Lateral clamping offers an important range, but tends to move the piece, so vertical (surface) clamping seems the only way to go. I use Festool FSZ 120 and FS-HZ 160, with 80mm throat depth.
So you position the rail (no problem with dogs), the piece of wood so that the router has the right trajectory, and now let's clamp the piece. Bing ! the edge is just on a hole : impossible to put the clamp in this hole, and adjacent holes are too far for the 80mm of Festool clamps. this situation happens for me more than often, and is really frustrating ...
The solutions I thought about :
   - clamps with at least 110mm throat depth : the only models I found have a rail too big for the 20mm holes.
   -  lengthen the fix jaw of Festool clamps and make the two parts separable : not ideal as the mobile jaw will stay the same length so the clamp will position at an angle, possibly screwing the hole.
   - use "long throw" clamps with a dog (the Kreg Bench Clamp I own reaches 110mm) but it's a sure way to screw the holes, unless you use also a plate with a knob under the table (clamping becomes really tedious, mostly with a large table).
   - augment the density of holes : if I add a second set of holes, interspersed and staggered in the 96mm original grid, the distance between adjacent holes becomes 68mm, compatible with Festool clamps throat depth ; the new parf guide system (Mk II) allows this, but my fear is this could weaken the top (difficult to know when you are not a specialist in materials resistance...).

Here what are my thoughts, if you have ideas or advice I will be glad to hear them. Sorry for the length of the post, I'm even more verbose in English than in my native language !!!
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