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Festool How To... / Re: TS55 Motor Upgrade?
« Last post by Lemondixon on Today at 08:23 AM »
In the UK, an I am sure in the US and elsewhere, the TS55 comes with the fine tooth (48) blade. That is not a ripping blade. The Panther (12) is too coarse for general use in a table saw and so I use the Universal blade (28) which is brilliant.

Hey Peter,

I found this forum page whilst looking for some information on the outside motor housing dimensions of the TS75 compared to the TS55 (for reasons explained below) only to find your post on this thread. As it happens I have recently bought your new Mark II Parf Guide System (which I have yet to put to the test) and so wondered if perhaps my query may be something you may have already considered, given the great care with which your system has been designed with UJK to work with the TS55 when used on a track [apologies to anyone if this is veering off topic].

I am currently torn between purchasing the Festool TS55 versus the TS75 or alternatively to go for the Mafell 55c (given more power than the TS55 but same cut depth). My plan is to use it with an MFT style laid out table top with 20mm dogs for quick square and 45 degree cuts etc. One consideration is therefore the clearance between the outside edge of the track and the motor housing (when plunged) especially if using the UJK guide rail clips. Am already familiar with your ideas for offset dog holes and the different dog sizes but all that I've seen is based on the TS55 - so I was wondering if the motor housing on the TS75 sticks out further or lower in a way that will affect such a set up and whether you might already know this?

On a slight side note about the Mafell 55c (and the same I gather would be applicable to the Bosch), I have seen that the Mafell/Bosch track is narrower than the Festool (no T track strip) so the saw base plate protrudes the track on the opposite side to the cutting edge. Are you aware whether the Mafell/Bosch track and machines would work with your system and dogs to position the track given these constraints or if there are any work arounds? [If this is too off topic apologies and am happy to post a new thread]. Hope you can shed some light on this Peter.

Thanks

Steve
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To change bits on the MFK700 you have to remove the base. But doing so without hitting the router bit on the base just as it slides out is really difficult I find. Is there some magic technique to this?
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That's coming along nicely. I love walnut, it's a beautiful grain and lends itself to so many applications. Wenge is another of my favourites.
Your workshop is looking very nice  [thumbs up]
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Sanding Discs Less $ Alternative?
« Last post by JD2720 on Today at 07:12 AM »
Unfortunately, Tom Bellemare is no longer with us. May he rest in peace.
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Member Projects / Re: [Project 21] Solid Walnut Front Entry Table
« Last post by montyss on Today at 07:06 AM »
Your Table is looking Great …
But the rack holding the lower bike where did you get that it looks interesting ...
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Festool How To... / Re: Bench Dogs
« Last post by Mario Turcot on Today at 07:02 AM »
TSO dogs are spot on. I use the Festool 20mm bit they sell for making tops. Works extremely well.

@tallgrass Do you mean the 20mm bit that comes with the UJK PGS? I'm a bit confused, because TSO do not sell any Festool product or perhaps I messed it. Anyways if you talking about the UJK bit, yes it's spot on and make a very clean hole in MDF.

I'm about to make a top from baltic birch ply. Because it's plywood I will be boring the 20mm holes on both, sides to prevent tear-out.
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Finishing and Painting / Re: Sanding hollow core doors
« Last post by magellan on Today at 06:45 AM »
Hollow core doors do not have a very thick skin on them. As was mentioned to do a veneer over lay.  It’s a decision you have to make.  The veneer costs about as much as a new door costs.  I just finished a few doors yesterday putting on a mahogany veneer. Most hollow core doors were mahogany yrs ago.  I’m not sure what the veneer is now. If they are painted and you would like a stained look I’d suggest you buy new ones. 

New doors cost between $32.00 -$42.00.  Veneer is $25.00 to $42.00.  I just bought mine from JSO products in Kentucky. Paper we backed mahogany veneer, it was very nice color and I knew I was getting mahogany.  The older doors from the 50’s and 60’s were birch doors that were made with a bit more quality. 

I did the veneer on my old doors so they would all match plus I was cutting louvers that I made into 2 doors for ventilation for a furnace room. 
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Member Projects / Re: [Project 21] Solid Walnut Front Entry Table
« Last post by AndrewG on Today at 06:21 AM »
Looking good. How do you find the fence dogs? I’ve been considering them myself.
Cheers
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Member Projects / Re: [Project 21] Solid Walnut Front Entry Table
« Last post by JPCleary on Today at 06:14 AM »
What's the tray you have on the side of the MFT with the foam in it?
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Finishing and Painting / Re: Sanding hollow core doors
« Last post by Bob D. on Today at 04:53 AM »
Cover them with a new skin of wood veneer or laminate. You could even choose to do a different treatment on each side of the door to match the décor of the rooms. You can buy birch or cherry veneer wide enough to cover a door. Of course this could get expensive if you have many doors to do but compare the cost to getting, hanging, and fitting new doors with hardware or moving the hardware off the old doors.
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