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I just use the festool clamps on the pieces being joined directly on the mft top. There is no point worrying about setting any dogs etc up for square as with the pocket holes joinery will pull itself square as long as your cuts are square. Even if you did set up a row of dogs or a fence, if the cuts aren't square then torquing up the screws will pull it to the angle of the cut.

Just clamp the rails and stiles where they need to be and drive the screws in. Too many people want to over complicate pocket hole joinery, which kind of defeats the purpose of using it to begin with.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / RG 130
« Last post by M.A.D. Renovations on Yesterday at 11:32 PM »
Does anyone know if the RG 130 will be available in Canada any time soon or NA for that matter?

Thx
Lawrence
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Building Materials / Re: Interesting hardware for inline splices?
« Last post by tjbnwi on Yesterday at 11:29 PM »
I also recommend installing the LED tape in channels with lenses covering the LED's. This protects them while the casework is being dusted.

These LED tapes are in dual channels, 18" from the mirror inlaid into the top panel of the vanity.

I have no clue why the single strip of LED's is showing up in the picture---they don't exist.

Tom
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General Friendly Chat / Re: The Big Green Egg
« Last post by L.J on Yesterday at 11:18 PM »
I have a Lg BGE and an Anova immersion cooker and the two go together and am not surprised to see Festool owners are lovers of fine cooked meals using the best of the best !!!
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An interesting discussion.  I've had a few orbitals over the years: an old Oz-made B&D that was supposedly switchable from true orbital to linear actions.  In reality there wasn't much discernable difference between modes.  Its successor was a super-smooth electronic V/S Elu, which was both smoother & more aggressive @ the same time.  Yet in terms of the actual work performed (i.e. abrasion) they were, due I suspect to their smaller (1/3 sheet) pads & orbital character, woefully slow.

I finally succumbed to temptation & purchased a super-aggressive 1/2 sheet Festo RS1C second hand.  Being reduction gear driven (as opposed to direct drive) & with a substantially larger platen, it was much more aggro in use, more vibratory and much faster.  The half sheet platen made it better, as Holmz has already said in regard to his Mafell equivalent, for flattening surfaces, but its 5mm of eccentricity tends to leave noticeable & difficult to remove semicircular striations, particularly with coarser grit papers.  I was spending more time removing swirls with finer grits than I was on the actual task.

For flattening larger areas, a carefully applied belt sander, especially if fitted with a sanding frame, is the way to go.  Linear striations will still be a problem, minimised by careful grit & belt selection & initial sanding @ 45 degrees to the grain followed up in subsequent finer grits parallel to the fibers.  Follow up with a bigger random obit for a final smooth.

Whilst excellent if slow @ flattening edge-jointed planks on tables & benches, a big 1/2 sheet orbital becomes pretty unwieldy on smaller tasks.  I've had a lot of window stiles & rails, glazing bars, doors & complex mouldings to strip.  Festo/ol's Duplex LS130 promised much, but actually delivered little either.  In use, it makes even a slow 1/3 sheet orbital seem speedy in comparison.  For stripping paint in mouldings & bars, a combination of Skarsten & Bahco Carbide scrapers, a carefully applied Metabo LF 724 paint stripper & baby SXE400 random orbit and appropriately shaped hand pads with 90 & 45 degree corners and even paper wrapped around dowel rods will comprehensively outperform that stupid little LS130.  Even a RO90 doesn't like these narrow profiles either:  its poor balance and "large" size in comparison to conventional deltas & small Random Orbitals makes it just too much of a handful, and difficult to control in delicate mouldings.

In comparison with the alternatives most standard orbital sanders seem pretty irrelevant these days.  I don't think I've felt the need to use one for 20 years or more.  I ended up giving mine away.  Too slow, too messy, too "scratchy".  The only advantage they have over the alternatives is the cost of papers:  you can buy rolls of painter's paper dirt cheap in comparison to discs which can be readily punched on the hole template once clamped to the sander.  A mere fraction of the price of expensive velcro backed papers & discs.

For me the purchase 2nd gen. Rotex RO 150 made all these orbitals instantly redundant.  In combination with a pair of delta sanders (Festo Deltex & Bosch GDA280) taking care of all those otherwise impossible to access nooks & crannies, and a couple of Metabo SXE400 80mm dia. mini random orbits for the concavities & curves, it has revealed the orbit sanders' weaknesses.

Random orbitals have the advantage of speed, aggression, smoothness & swirl free performance that are common characteristics of all orbitals that I've either owned or used.  In just about every possible criteria except the cost of consumables standard rectangular orbital & linear sanders are struggling for relevance these days.
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I own those flexvolt tools and I am 48. They rock.  The big drill really is an amazing tool. I like the sawzall and have no complaints about the skilsaw. The grinder is a monster. I find all the tools quite good. The dws790 makes the kapex look well like the over designed, underpowered overpriced designer toy that it is. I love the low tech batteries. With that in mind the track saw still has higher weight and poor rail slack adjustment no real provision for cordless dust collection i.e. A good bag so,one can truly be cordless. I am on the fence between the tsc55 and the new makita cordless track saw. Probably will come down to Festool's lack of a cordless line, no impact, and never been a fan of the carvex and the fact Makita seems to be really go for it in the cordless realm.
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Hey guys. I have contemplated purchasing the Kreg Klamp Table primarily for assembling face frames secured with pocket screws. Before doing that i would like to know what sort of ideas folks have come up with by using the MFT3 for the same purpose.

Thanks
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A large majority of my cordless tools are Makita. Reciprocating saw, circular saw, small blower, impacts, drills, grinder, sander, multi-tool, and probably more I am forgetting. From there I transition into Milwaukee's M12 line, and recently into their 18volt line. One tool I will swear by because it gets a lot of use is my cordless caulking gun. Makita makes an 18volt version (Mine is M12). For gluing subfloor etc with thick glues your hand will thank you. For laying a near perfect bead of caulk a long distance, nothing beats a cordless caulking gun. If you don't already own a multi-tool you should have one. Cordless lighting is great to have, although all mine is Milwaukee. 

Honestly I do not see a big advantage for the cordless router, but I am sure there are uses.
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Building Materials / Re: Interesting hardware for inline splices?
« Last post by Peter_C on Yesterday at 10:42 PM »
I bought a bunch of connectors for the LED strips off of Amazon. Not nearly as nice with the screws as Tom's but they have been functioning well in a few houses for years now.
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General Friendly Chat / Re: The Big Green Egg
« Last post by retfr8flyr on Yesterday at 10:36 PM »
I have an Anova, along with my Kamado Joe and my Akorns. I also have the BBQ Guru WiFi controller. I got the BBQ for my Akorn, as temp control on it is fairly difficult but my Big Joe is so stable I hardly use it for temp control on the BJ. I still use it for remotely monitoring the cook, as it's great for pit and food temp observation from the comfort of the house. As to the reverse seared steaks, I have also done them both ways, Sous Vide and Big Joe. I prefer to cook them on the BJ at 225° with a little Hickory wood for flavoring. I think they have much better flavor then the Sous Vide steaks. Now if you take a cheaper cut of meat, like so called London Broil, really just top round and cook it at 125° for about 10 hours and then do the sear procedure. You will end up with a piece of meat that is as tender as Rib Eye, with a great flavor. It's one of my favorite things to do with the Anova. Chicken also comes out great, Sous Vide, is just another way to cook many things.
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