Recent Posts

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Nice project with a very nice bargain on the materials!
So you still have the 'conveyor and roller' parts - what is your next use!?
I have a bunch of conveyor rollers, belts, aluminum mounting plates, a couple of gear motors, drives and a few photoelectric sensors. I'm going to have to get more creative to find a use for it all!
My first thought was: a power feeder.
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+Is there a chart available for recommended heat settings for all the glue colors festool offers> I've managed to find Setting 2 for white and 1 for clear via supplemental manual . And is there anything offered to adjust heat settings when changing from.8mm to say 3mm
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Hand Tools / Re: Visiting a Lee Valley store
« Last post by thudchkr on Today at 04:58 AM »
Thanks to all. Made it to the Vaughn store and found the Festool Road Show trailer in the parking lot. They had just done their event the day prior.  [sad]

Enjoyed the visit to the store and found another location in the area, (Atlas Machinery), where the road show would be the following day,  [laughing].

Lucked into the Road Show and got to view a huge Festool assortment at Atlas. Life was good to me that day. Especially when the whole trip was to see our first granddaughter. Win, win, all around.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Vacuum Pump for VAC-SYS
« Last post by Gregor on Today at 04:56 AM »
I've happened across a Robinair 15500 vacuum pump for a very good price.  It appears it would be a good pump for my own vac-sys creation being rated at 35 Micron.  If I do my conversions correctly this is well below the needed mBar.

Would anyone care to offer a comment on this pump in it's capacity to be used for both a vacuum clamp and vacuum press (not at the same time).
The pump should do fine for both applications, as the end pressure is 3.5 orders of magnitude lower than the festool original pump it'll clamp 'harder' (as the pressure differential between the room and the suction cup is ~40% higher). For a vacuum press a vacuum reservoir (pressure vessel between pump and the valve to the press on which the pump can work prior to actually pressing) will speed up initial evacuation. Just put a separator infront of the intake that removes all solids (sawdust), a fine filter should do.

The 'change oil after each application' from the manual can most likely be ignored. Even should you let it run free for extended periods of time (which will pull in water vapor, from the air passing through, that condensates into the oil) you likely won't have a problem - end pressure will degrade but this is only relevant in case you do refrigeration (where you want best possible vacuum prior to filling coolant medium) - for your application it'll be good enough (even with non-new oil). As long as the oil dosn't foam it'll be fine, just exchange it once or twice a year.
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In these two videos that I made back in 2014, you will notice the RO150 is being guided, rather than 'held down'. In other words the Grit of the sanding disc and the tool are doing the work. The other thing I do is that the lower the Grit, the lower I set  the tool's power setting. And sure, very occasionally ------  [eek] [embarassed]






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Ask Festool / Re: Mft/3 + which guide rail?
« Last post by Peter Parfitt on Today at 03:04 AM »
The 1400 rail is long enough to cut the 4 foot slice of an 8x4. The 2700 rail is ditto for the 8 foot direction.

Peter
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I'm thinking of getting a Saw Stop professional 3HP saw with a T-Glide fence.  For years I've had an auxiliary face on my Delta fence, with several attachments.  I built the face based on ideas from Jim Tolpin's "Table Saw Magic" book.  The Saw Stop fence design is more of a Biesemeyer fence, while I had a Delta Unifence with a Peachtree Woodworking aftermarket extrusion made just for the Unifence on which I built my face.

I've seen a couple of different designs where people have replaced the stock SawStop faces with Woodpecker's super track or other similar track.  For the cost of two 36" pieces of super track, it looks like an attractive upgrade.  Next would be some kind of sacraficial face on that to protect my blades.  After that, start to rebuild my set of Jim Tolpin-like jigs, but based on the super track.

Has anyone tried something similar?  Good idea, bad idea?  Anything that you would do differently?  What kinds of jigs have you made that use the slots?

Does anyone know where to get t-slot extrusions that are wider than super track? - Say 5-6 inches wide rather than 3.8?
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Ask Festool / Re: Mft/3 + which guide rail?
« Last post by TheSergeant on Today at 01:53 AM »
you're gonna want two 55" rails connected, at a minimum.  Don't use the festool connectors though, they're no good.  You can make a set of really nice ones that actually work and don't damage your rails or come loose for half the price:  http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/homemade-guide-rail-connectors-(not-your-typical-ones)/?topicseen
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Another user mentioned it but 100% get the "Front Handle".  It makes a huge difference. 
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Ask Festool / Re: Festool price rant
« Last post by TheSergeant on Today at 01:47 AM »
I'm abandoning the brand as well.  I've owned most of the Festool line and have been selling everything off.  The only tools I'm planning on keeping are the OF1400, Domino 500 and my RO150.  Everything else has been sold.  That includes (2) TS55s, Trion, Carvex, CXS, (3) MFT3s, OF1010, CT22, ATF55, RO125, ETS125 and I'm sure others I'm forgetting, not to mention accessories and rails and other small items.  I'm just not seeing the innovations in the products that warrant the kind of price premium and I don't trust the longevity of the products anymore.  I'd rather offload them now while people are still willing to pay close to retail for a used "luxury brand tool".  The annual price increase and the "Hurry, buy now, prices are rising" sales strategy is also getting ridiculous.  I really never thought I'd jump ship but it's just getting silly at this point.  I used to direct people towards Festool, now I find myself persuading people away from the brand.  It's too bad really....
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