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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Makita Tracksaw Q's
« Last post by Kab on Today at 05:07 PM »
The track is 4mm thick, so the depth needs to be set 4 mm deeper than the thickness of the material. The measurements relate to the depth of cut from the base of the saw not the underside of the track.

The good side of the cut piece is intended to be under the track. Sounds like you have the waste piece under the track, which is why the issue you have with the saw blade curf.
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Festool Tool Problems / Domino cutter life
« Last post by Jasonj888 on Today at 05:06 PM »
I have a Domino 500 that I love - it streamlines my building process. I mostly use 5X30 dominos. I'm a part-time pro, so I go through about 600-1000 dominos per year. Festool says that the cutters last for 5,000-14,000 joints. I'm on my fourth bit since I purchased the machine. The first one was definitely my fault - I had to learn to use less pressure and a slower feed rate when cutting pockets, but since then I have went through less than 2,000 dominos (that would be 4,000 pockets, one for each side) and have burned up three bits. Usually the hardened tip breaks off the bit. I work primarily with red oak, a little hickory and veneer core plywood.

Anyone else have this problem? At $42 per cutter, it's costing me more than 3 cents to cut each domino pocket, plus the cost of the individual domino at about 8.5 cents. Is there a way to make the cutter last longer? Is anyone getting more life out of the cutters than I am? If not, the life of the cutter should be revised on the website and catalog.
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Makita Tracksaw Q's
« Last post by copcarcollector on Today at 05:05 PM »
Not a saw I have, but ref depth of cut, does the depth indicator take into account the height of the rail? I know on my FT saw there are two measurements, on and off the rail...
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Member Projects / Re: Red Oak Trestle Table
« Last post by Mantis806 on Today at 05:02 PM »
Thank you for all of the great feedback!

The table it relatively heavy. The good thing is that it can all disassembled and "flat packed." The top is the heaviest. I'm estimating it to be about 200lbs. I don't mind the weight because I hate the feeling of a"flimsy" table.

I looked at a lot of different dining tables to draw inspiration. I watched a lot of videos from Homestead Craftsman on YouTube. Ultimately, it came down to my wife picking something that she liked and me making my own modifications to it. My main goal was to eliminate the four leg design (farm table?) Therefore, a trestle concept was the default design choice. I also really liked the breadboard ends, so I knew I had to integrate that into the design. Overall, I had no concept of proper proportions other than Googling "proper" dining table size and height.

For the joinery, I was pretty lost. I didn't know if I was going to do through mortises, half mortises or dominos. I watched a lot of YouTube channels and got inspired by Samurai Carpenter and Third Coast Craftsman. I saw them using a lot of wedges and I really like that style of joinery. This was actually my first time (one of many firsts) trying to make a dovetail, so doing a dovetail half lap was a fun joint. My favorite joint is probably the middle table brace with the tusked wedge. I haven't seen this used a lot in my research, but I was excited on how it would ultimately look. Cutting the angles were a challenge, but I didn't use any machines on the tusks because they were smaller and I didn't want my hand so close to the TS blade while trying to do an angled cut. I cut most of that piece by hand using a Japanese pull saw and some wood guides to keep my lines straight. Another favorite was pounding the dowels into the breadboard ends. After all of the careful prep and test fitting, I was very excited to see the dowels actually pulling the joint tighter and that I had drilled the holes correctly.

The total cost of all of the wood was a little over $900. It was probably not the most economical project, but I take some solace in guessing that this table would cost a lot more if I purchased it elsewhere of comparable quality. I dived into the project estimating the cost based on the price per board foot from my local lumber store, but I had no idea of how many board feet I would ultimately need.
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Other Tools & Accessories / Makita Tracksaw Q's
« Last post by VHF on Today at 04:48 PM »
Hi Folks - Finally got a makita SP6000 track saw kit. Cuts are as great as expected - very pleased. Two things (so far) that have been puzzling to me though:

1) Cut depth setting. Spent the day cutting 18mm ply. Started out setting the depth to 18. No where near cutting through. Progressed through 20 up to 22 before the 18mm ply was cut through. Obvs I can (and do) check visually, but feel like I must be missing something. Wouldn't (shouldn't) the numbers relate to the depth of cut?

2) Accommodating  for kerf. Again, maybe something obvious I'm missing, but is there a better way to set the track to my marks? I'm currently doing it by edging the track closer and closer to the marks then aligning the proper side of the tooth to the proper side of the mark. Seems awkward and inaccurate for such a well designed rig. (I know there are brilliant parallel cutting guides by Woodpecker and Seneca and Festool for repeat cut but Christmas is far away, so need to use what I have, presently.)

And a silly one this, but I've read that folks often cut on a sheet of pink or blue rigid foam insulation. Is this just to save the blade, or is there another reason?

Cheers for any words on the above, and any other rookie tips. 
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General Friendly Chat / Re: Timberwolf Tools
« Last post by rizzoa13 on Today at 04:47 PM »
Just read through your comments and it seems you were hoping the plate read 60hz. This is a saw I imported from Germany and have run here on our grid for the last 3 years. Haven’t had a single issue and I’ve run it off electrical panels, temp panels, generators you name it. I made a Neutrik cord for it and cut the German cord end. Since it’s a double insulated motor you just take the two hots and wire them into a 220v breaker in the panel. I seriously beat the sh*t out of this saw and it hasn’t hiccuped once. Hope that helps.
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Member Projects / Re: Red Oak Trestle Table
« Last post by Upscale on Today at 04:28 PM »
My wife and bought a house a few years ago and the previous owner left their dining set for us to use. It served us well, but my we wanted a new look for the dining room.
 

I shudder to think what that oak cost. Might I inquire how much you laid out for it? Buying that quality and thickness of wood up here in Canada would take a second mortgage and then some.   [scared]
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I have used the ETS EC 150/5 extensively over the last months. I love it. I also have the Rotex 150.

It all depends on what type of surface you are preparing, and size. For a finish sander I think the ETS EC is great. :)

I sanded down 96 doors during the last month and a half, both sides, and up to three times (matting down, surface fix, resanding before primer and then one more time before top coat . Had I used the Rotex I would have been worn out. It was a breeze with the ETS EC. Literally. I used the Rotex 150 for a couple of doors that needed more aggressive sanding and it was a relief to get back to the ETS EC... The ETS EC does reasonably well with slightly aggressive sanding provided you use the right paper! With Festool and Mirka paper for removing/sanding paint the papers last a looooong time but with the papers for bare wood, not so much when sanding down painted surfaces.

We also have a Mirka Deros 150 and it was used as well but for the most part I preferred the ETS EC 150.  Dust collection is excellent. Sander is quiet. I have no regrets. :)

The ETS EC isn't a very aggressive sander but it does "well" with lower grits. With higher grits I find the ETS EC 150/5 works better for me than the 150/3. We do spray painting (HVLP) in the shop and don't see the need for the 150/3 for our work flow.

Would be the "only" sander for me? No, I have the RTS 400, the Rotex 150 and the ETS EC 150 and a RAS115.

Can you explain why you prefer the ETS EC over the DEROS? I have a CEROS (6” and 5” pads, which I love) but I’d love to hear from you (and anyone else) why people like one over the other.

Sorry for not getting back earlier with a reply. Forgot about this thread.

I honestly think Mirka and Festool are on par as for quality of sanding. I do prefer the on/off switch on the Festool over the paddle. I think the paddle is good - but sometimes when sanding edges or other vertical sanding tasks I prefer to shift my hand slightly and then I prefer the versatility of the Festool grip since it is not controlling the on/off with a pad.

For sanding a lot of surfaces in succession I think the Mirka is superb, that's when the paddle comes into its own. For more general sanding purposes I think the switch is better.

Unfortunately I have had failures with both the Mirka and the ETS EC 150. Festools customer service on the ETS EC 150 once it failed made sure I will not buy a sander from Festool ever again - or any other similar tool I can get from another brand. 
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Impact driver recommendation
« Last post by leakyroof on Today at 04:11 PM »
The bolts being inserted are M20 and M22 x 2mm pitch with hex heads in the 30 to 32mm range. Even 3/8 square drive sockets are relatively hard to find so 1/4 drive hex won’t work. The 1/2 inch square drive tools will have a larger form factor and higher weight than I would prefer so I feel the sweet spot is 3/8 square drive impact drivers for ergonomics and speed.

We probably can’t go wrong and might just try several brands as this will probably be a long term application. Maybe, by the time we settle in I will be able to contribute real word experience for these types of conversations. Of course the technology will continue and tools will be leapfrogged by others.......
As someone who has to use impacts and sockets around bolts on a daily basis, you are pushing the limits with the choice of only a 3/8" impact regardless of its power source since a 30mm or 32mm socket is pretty big.  Even if you use a step adapter to get that 3/8" impact to handle a 1/2" drive socket, you've also changed the ergonomics of the impact as well since an adapter will take the weight of the socket further away from the gun.
 I suggest 1/2" drive pneumatic since you already have air, and yes I know you're trying to avoid hoses.
 You can get very reliable and VERY small new 'mini' style 1/2" guns that will easily move a 30mm or 32mm socket VERY quickly all day long even if you're not needing their higher Impact Power rating over any 3/8" gun.
 These new MINI guns are shorter than a Traditional 3/8" air impact and just as light.
 AND, as an added benefit, you can buy standard 1/2" drive sockets in the size you want without hunting down very large sockets in a rare 3/8" drive size. 
 
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Some new Wera goodness!
« Last post by SRSemenza on Today at 04:07 PM »
Question Seth, why the need for the insulated Torx Bits?   [blink]

Ran into a Torx screw in a panel recently.  Maybe it's not normal, I don't know, but there it was.

I already have the handle so I figured why not?


Seth
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