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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Hot Fein Multimaster
« Last post by Jiggy Joiner on Today at 05:25 AM »
I have found with any Fein multi tool previous to the latest models have the potential to run very warm and often hot.
I have mentioned this before on this site. The main cause is simply design, these multi tools in their class, are the most powerful out there, both in mains powered and cordless. There are certainly no issues with the power or actual working performance, in that department they are superb. The problem is, there is no anti vibe to soak up the vibration, and the air venting in my opinion is also a concern.

I have had serious overheating issues with two previous model 18 volt Supercuts. At first the guy I spoke with at Fein, who carries out warranty repairs, was basically saying it was bad luck or an isolated case. After the problems repeated and I spoke to the technical manager, I was this time around told the truth, and that it was a big problem with these tools.

I suggested they should have shock absorbers between the motor and casing, or between the body and battery like many other power tools have, and sufficient air venting.
The chap told me a new model (the current version) was planned, and this would remove the issues.

My machines were only ever used on speed #1 sometimes for lengthy periods but, within Feins guidelines and recommendations. They got hot enough to weld the batteries to the casing, ruining both the batteries and the casings.

Even out of warranty I have changed the casings twice at my own cost. I wasn’t happy at all and said I’d never buy Fein again. Then one of the chaps that works for me bought the latest 18 volt Supercut, and after seeing it perform for a few years without issue, I changed my mind, and bought two. They still have the added PTFE pads and tape added, which was a concern when I saw it, as that was part of a cheap fix on my old machines but, in operation, the heat and vibration is not that of previous models.

They are superb, and without doubt the best multi tool out there, rivalled only by the Vecturo, which is the same machine in different clothes.

Since having my own overheating experiences with these tools, I have spoken to other users, some have suffered the same, and the only conclusion I could come to, was no matter what the machine was being used for, even on the lowest speed, it seemed to be prolonged use that causes the over heating. By prolonged, I mean more than a minute or two, which is one of the reasons I bought mine in the first place.

The blurb said “Mains power from a cordless tool” and “Great battery life for prolonged user application”

I was very disappointed with my earlier Fein experiences, especially considering the money I’d shelled out, even a discount offer on the new models would have been a gesture but, all I got was a new casing and battery, and some PTFE pads and tape added to cutdown on friction, which was repeated 5 months later when they failed again?

Anyway, onwards and upwards, the new ones are very nice machines and my only niggle is the blade patent is again tied up, so blades are costly.
Great machines again now though.  [thumbs up]
Having recently installed my dust collection ductwork, I knew I wanted to move on to an easier shop project - installing fixed air lines along the ceiling. I did quite a bit of research on the best pipe material to use, considering iron black pipe--cheap and strong, but susceptible to interior corrosion over time; "systems" like Rapid Air--slick looking, good performing, but expensive and then you're locked into those expensive fittings if you ever want to change/expand; and copper--actually quite cheap in 1/2" diameter, but time consuming to cut, prep and sweat. I settled on copper and made sure to pick L pipe, which is thicker walled than M pipe and only slightly more expensive. All of the fittings were purchased in advance from which ended up saving me quite a bit of money. I already had plenty of propane and cutting tools. This was actually my first-ever project sweating copper pipe and I have to say, it can be challenging to get "good looking" joints but even the ugly ones are perfectly functional and reliable. Gave me an appreciation for why this is such a mainstay building product even today.

I first mocked up my air lines using my shop SketchUp model. I deviated from the plan a bit as I went along only slightly.

The next part of the project was determining how I was going to hang/mount the air lines. Having had good success with threaded rod hangers with my 6" PVC ductwork for the dust collector, I went with this same approach for the ceilings. Since this pipe didn't weigh much and I wanted the flexibility to locate these ceiling hangers just about anywhere, I decided to hang them with toggle-style drywall anchors, which necessitated an "adapter" of sorts to provide me a surface to hang the threaded rod. I found a simple solution and just welded a bunch of 3/8-16 nuts to some large washers. The screw for the drywall anchor went through the middle nut, and the threaded rod went into the other nut. Soaked the fasteners in vinegar for a day to remove the zinc coating, tack welded, primed and painted.

For the wall hangers, I had a couple of different designs. First, I stumbled upon these tubing hangers which provided a nice tight fit on my 1/2" copper pipe, but didn't provide a stable enough mounting platform and would have wobbled quite a bit even when screwed to the wall. So, I designed a larger base for these hangers with a female key hole friction fitting into the plastic mount base. Painted, and then a little CA glue locked it in place.

The other connection point on the wall were the 90 degree elbow fittings. These would hold my air quick disconnects I would fiddle with frequently, so I knew I wanted them to be screwed into the wall for stability. But I couldn't just screw them into the wall because the tubing hangers extended the pipe 1/2" off the wall. So, I had to build a similar spacer, settling on the below design which uses just a single screw hole in the middle. Just like the other spacer, cut on the Shaper, and painted.

All my spacers ready to be mounted:

I decided to start at the air compressor. Here you can see the 3 foot whip, providing me a little mobility for the air compressor if needed. For all air couplers, I went with Milton V Style high-flow fittings, which are great. From the compressor, air goes directly into the ARO Filter-Regulator-Oiler combination unit. I'm undecided on whether or not to use the oiler--if you have any thoughts on this, let me know!

Here you can see the purge valve with muffler. Works great for cutting down the sound when depressurizing the system.

From there, we go up to the ceiling:

Here you can see me wrapping the air lines around the other side of the garage port, and also going through the wall where most of my tools reside.

Here's another air drop. I have four of these wall-mounted style drops in the shop, along with numerous "hanging" drops. I opted for a drain at every one of these wall drops, though it was probably overkill. It is nice to be able to purge from multiple valves at the same time though, and if I ever have water build-up in the system I can purge from any one of these low points.

Here you can see how I finished the wall penetration with a little custom-made bulkhead cover painted to match, and also an example of one of my hanging drops with an air coupler.

I've had this reel installed for the better part of a year, collecting dust, so it was great to get this incorporated into the system as well. I discovered how much of a workout it is to uncoil this behemoth! It serves no practical purpose other than to extend air far out into the drive way, now that I have so many air outlets in the walls and ceilings.

I wanted my air drops to be convenient but out of the way, so I went with coiled air hoses.

All said, the project probably cost me $400-500 in materials. And the best part: when I went to activate the system for the first time, there were NO leaks from the copper joints. The threaded connections to the air couplers, on the other hand, hand some issues and I had to re-apply pipe dope very liberally to both male and female threads. No perceptible leaks as of now, and a good 100 PSI anywhere I want it.
General Friendly Chat / Re: Hearing Protection
« Last post by Bob D. on Today at 04:53 AM »
Nowadays you have a couple choices in type, earbuds or earmuffs.

So think about your use and if you will be wearing a hat and/or some other PPE or headgear, and how that might interfere with hearing protection.

You might want one of each type for different situations. I have earbuds for working in the shop or welding and muff style for working in the yard running noisy equipment or on the tractor.
I have no history with this product, just pointing out since you asked about other options.

Lowes sells a product made by Armstrong called 'WoodHaven'.
It's made from MDF and comes in 5"x84" T&G panels and has a beadboard design.
Cost about $4/sf.
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Hot Fein Multimaster
« Last post by Bob D. on Today at 04:38 AM »
Alex, does your electrical code allow double-insulated tools to have a two prong plug?
The code might be the reason for the difference.
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Hot Fein Multimaster
« Last post by Alex on Today at 02:58 AM »
I have some theories as to why the unit ran so hot.  As you can see from the pictures, the unit is caked with drywall dust.  Everywhere. I suspect that drywall dust is a poor conductor of heat and reduced the cooling effectiveness of the design. 

The fan vanes were heavily caked with drywall dust, and I suspect that the dust buildup changed the airfoil shape, further reducing airflow.

Thanks for the nice pictures. The small amount of caked dust I see has no influence on your cooling though, that can't be the problem.

Do I see correctly on your pictures there are 2 wires going to the electronics module? Mine has 3.
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: MFK 700 question
« Last post by tjbnwi on Today at 01:42 AM »
If the edging/nose is more than a 1/2" wide the 1.5° bevel is noticeable from a side profile.

Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: MFK 700 question
« Last post by Cheese on Today at 01:05 AM »
If you edgeband on already veneered boards: 1.5 degree base prevents damage to the veneer.

If you want to veneer after edge banding: 0 degree base gives you a flush cut to veneer over.


A great and simple explanation.
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: MFK 700 question
« Last post by grobkuschelig on Today at 12:38 AM »
If you edgeband on already veneered boards: 1.5 degree base prevents damage to the veneer.

If you want to veneer after edge banding: 0 degree base gives you a flush cut to veneer over.

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