Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
1
For me it is not a financial decision. You are going to have this vac for 5-10 years so the fifty - sixty dollars gets watered down over a lot of time. For me the decision is about size and weight only. Think about how you work and where you will want the vac to live in your shop. I wanted mine to slide under my table saw table. There was enough room for the CT 36 so I got it. Also think about size / weight regarding mobility. If you want to carry it out onto the driveway to clean out your cars or use it for odd jobs around your house or around town. If you need mobility like this then the smaller, lighter vac might be better. The cost difference of these two vacs and their respective bags over the life of this vac will not be enough to sway your decision in my opinion. The weight and size, however, might!
2
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Planex or planex easy
« Last post by EMWLou on Today at 02:03 PM »
My response is far too late to be helpful to the OP, but I wanted to chime in anyway.

For the last 5 months, I have been relocating/resizing offices and conference rooms in an occupied building. We've installed about 1500 sheets that have all been very close to customers/employees working in the building. Dust collection was a must. We didn't have any ceilings to deal with, but all the walls have been 10 feet high.

The only thing that ever stopped me from getting a Planex in the past was the price tag. When I started this job and saw that Festool came out with the Easy version, I bought one. I did NOT buy the AC extractor. I wanted to see what using my CT26 with a bag would be like before I spent the money on another vac that I don't need. We've been using the Planex easy almost daily now for the last 4 months and everyone loves it. After about 1500 sheets, I've gone through about 5 bags for the CT26. The bag keeps the dust from getting to the filter and all is great. I see no reason at all for me to put out the money for the AC extractor.

The easy reaches the top of a 10 foot wall with no problem whatsoever. The only ceiling work I've done is a few soffets that have been anywhere from 8 to 10 feet high. I am 6'-1" and I can reach 10 feet with ease. Closets and other tight spaces really haven't been much of an issue for us. Sure, the sander feels bulky when you're trying to cram it and you're 200+ pound frame into a closet, but its all technique and you get used to it very quickly. You just have to learn to choke up on the arm a bit from time to time. We have excellent tapers working with us so the amount of dust we are creating is not enormous, but it would be a major issue if we were just using pole sanders.

On new drywall, we've found that the best combination for us has been: 320 grit, the planex speed set at number 2, and the CT26 suction turned up all the way. Not all of the dust is collected though. What happens is that a small amount of the heaviest dust escapes and falls straight down to the floor. The fine dust is pretty much captured 100% and nothing goes into the air. The little bit that falls to the floor is picked up with one swipe of a crevice tool and its all good.

Keep the sander out of the hands of the gung ho apprentices or you'll find that you'll be going back to do a 4th coat on many of your walls. You can sand too far if you're not paying attention and the sander will really dig into the wall if you don't keep it flat to the wall. Other than that, it has been an outstanding tool purchase for us, I couldn't be happier. We have already signed a few new contracts for other spaces based on the referrals we're getting from this job. The feedback that we're getting from the current client is that "they can't believe how clean we are."
3
Festool and Tanos Systainers / Re: Started my collection
« Last post by Systainer.Store on Today at 02:03 PM »
Nice!  That is a great color combination, isn't it?
4
@Svar Here's a picture with the phenolic top plate removed from the saw. It is mounted on some Bosch Rexroth (80/20) corner blocks mounted to the Festool profile (I bought longer tracks as the standard CMS-VL is too narrow). The saw lifts in and out. I removed the standard fence system which is only a few bolts so easy to put back on if I want to use it standalone (although I can't imagine it given how nice it is having a bigger support table, easy to attach outfeed, and sliding table) I use the phenolic zero clearance table over the top of the standard table for when I'm cutting laminates or other delicate surfaces. I'm also going to make a cross-cut jig for cutting smaller stuff at 90 degree as the full sliding table attachment can be unwieldy if your just cross cutting some small pieces.

5
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Morakniv Chisel Knife $8.32
« Last post by vkumar on Today at 01:58 PM »
Thanks for the heads up.  Just ordered two.
6
I am looking at picking up a CT. If I get a ct-cyclone, would there be any reason to get a CT36? being that the CT 26 is the same?
thanks for any input
7
So ... what it is weird is that only one corner is off...this is mathematically impossible

This is possible only if one or more of the cuts are not straight. Do you have a good straight-edge to check? (N. B. Not a ruler, which are not guaranteed straight.)

Another thing to check is that you are not skewing the cut as you move along. That’s possible if you’re stretching and your saw is not adjusted properly on the rail. This video shows how to adjust:

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bh62EM8H3Ts/?hl=en&taken-by=festoolsedge

No, this is what is expected: after the 5 cut method is done the resulting keeper piece will have one corner with the error compounded 4 times while the other corners have the normal error. The fact that he thinks the other corners are ok is why this method is so good, it has revealed that there is still error when the try square is lying that everything is ok.

Joining pieces later with small error will compound to a big error, so having also the compounded error corner dead square to start with is a good headache saver. But in this case he cannot get rid of the error because it is inherent to the holes and dogs.
8
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: tasting the koolaid...sure is tasty...
« Last post by cpw on Today at 01:28 PM »
Hobby or pro?

If hobby, I'd save the money on the 36 vs. the 26.  The $60 dollars is going to take a while to justify with reduced bags if all you're doing is sanding and shop cleanup.  Also, the CT26 gets heavy/bulky enough if you're going to ever go outside your shop that I personally wouldn't want to go bigger/heavier.

I think the filter life should be the same, the CT26 and CT36 are identical but for the tub.
9
Festool Tools & Accessories / Festool newb! - CTL 26 issues
« Last post by Timbah on Today at 01:26 PM »
Hi all,
Been lurking a while, first time post however.

I recently acquired a Kapex 120 and a CTL 26, my first purchases and both of which I'm very pleased with.
I have a minor issue with the CTL 26 however. Being brand-spanking, it came with the new "smooth" hose and the new twist-lock style rubber end. However this end is unbelievably stiff and unrelenting, especially compared to the older style end of my employers' CTL 26 hose, with no twist-lock.

Not only that but tragically it does not fit at all a (granted, ancient) Festo (yes, that old) PS 200 Jig Saw that belonged to my late father.
The jig saw has what I would describe as a D/Oval shaped (male) extraction outlet that is wider than the (female) 'ole of the hose, it wouldn't fit even if the rubber was more flexible.

Firstly, is there anything I can to do make the rubber a bit more pliable? It's just totally unyielding. It won't fit the extraction point of a Fein Multi-Master I have either. Sadly I have no other Festool toys other than the Kapex to try it with at the moment.

Secondly any suggestions on how can I attach the jig-saw to the hose? I don't mind modifying the jig saw - it was bought in 1998 so I suspect it may be out of warranty at this point!

Thirdly, is the older non-twist lock style hose end available for purchase and if so, does anyone know the part number?

Many thanks,
Tim
10
I think one of the problems is the speed control,my other saws don’t have that .
Maybe to much electronics in the mix.
Charlie


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10