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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Clamps and thoughts
« Last post by online421 on Today at 06:04 PM »
I have different types of clamps,

you can consider Frontline clamps if you do table tops, I have 8 of these babies and they are great.

If you do large/wide glue ups, you may need a glue table like this.

(Attachment Link)

I have no idea where you can buy them in North America, I was surprised I can buy them here in New Zealand.

The longest they come is over 12 ft. pretty impressive.

They are my favourite clamp, deep throat (125mm for 40mmx10mm bar section) and very heavily built.


It also helps if you have deep throat F clamp. I love my Urko F clamp. having Bessey sitting next to them make Bessey look like Wanna-Be clamps...

(Attachment Link)
need those giant urkos where do I buy them
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Festool and Tanos Systainers / Re: New Mafell Sys Workbench
« Last post by Svar on Today at 05:32 PM »
No reason why you couldn’t use a coupe of them and spread them out to handle larger sheets.
So now we are up to $700 for something that is better handled by $20 saw horses?
The question here is of practicality and value.
What are the chances you'll have bunch of Systainers handy on site to build two stacks of equal height?
Then you need to un-stack your "bench" every time you reach for a tool. And I'm sure the one you need will be in the bottom sys.  [big grin]

This is also a case of extreme over-engineering. Extrusions are cool, but do you need superior rigidity, straightness, and wear resistant coating for what is essentially a disposable spacer for cutting? SYS-MFT is good enough for a quick cut, keep it simple.
I like the idea as long as the systainers can be stable enough.
For stability they should offer titanium extension feet for your systainer stack.
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Hi All,

Need remove a top cement floor, roughly 100 m2. It's 7 cm concrete (top layer). It's pretty soft and not reinforced.

What woud be a decent length for a SDS Max Chisel?

FYI. It's not a rush job, I have 8 weeks (and a Bosch GSH 5 CE). So im thinking a few hours a week, no interest in wrecking my back  ;).

I'm guessing the longer the better? But maybe some of you have experience and can give me a good tip (other then, let someone else take care of it  [big grin] ).

Thanks!


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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Planex or planex easy
« Last post by PeterK on Today at 04:56 PM »
Yep- dampen the popcorn and it comes off really easy with a scraper on a pole. Just lay plastic sheeting! Cheap and fast. UNLESS the popcorn has multiple layers of paint. Drywall installers loved popcorn as it hid poor seam joints so can virtually guarantee you will need to mud and sand joints.
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That's a great observation and suggestion!

I think the plugged hole does the same thing, though I'm not exactly sure why it's plugged.  The only thing I could think of is that it appears that the current drain port is ever so slightly lower than the plugged port.  I wonder if drainage might be an issue with the slightly higher port?
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General Friendly Chat / Re: What's Cooking
« Last post by GoingMyWay on Today at 03:50 PM »
A while back we made crispy pork belly with oil blanched snow pea tips.  Sadly the crispy pork belly was a fail because it wasn't crispy.  This was the second time we made it.  The first time it came out nice and crunchy.  I used the same recipe so I'm not sure where I went wrong.





















Sunday we made sous vide ribeye and sauteed chanterelle mushrooms.  NY strip is my favorite cut of steak, but my wife says that the ribeye steak is better and also more tender.





Last night I grilled up some Mediterranean marinated chicken breasts for my wife's lunch.

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Home Improvement & Other Projects / Re: Cracked HVAC Condensate Pan
« Last post by rvieceli on Today at 03:46 PM »
@GoingMyWay  it appears that there are two of those connections in that pan. One being blocked by the plug on the right. Is that the case? Does the plugged hole go to the same thing. If so you might be able to remove the plug, check the threads there and use that hole for the actual drain line. Then silicone the crap out of the other threaded hole and the plug and thread the plug into that one.

Ron
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@six-point socket II  Oliver, Nice looking Snap On soldering iron.  What powers it and how do you like it?

Mike A.
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Home Improvement & Other Projects / Cracked HVAC Condensate Pan
« Last post by GoingMyWay on Today at 03:26 PM »
Anyone have any suggestions for how I can fill this crack in the threaded portion of the condensate pan in our HVAC?  I initially thought about using CA glue, but then figured that would likely break as soon as I screwed the drain line back in.  100% silicone might be the best bet, but I fear it will be messy.  In that scenario, I planned on squeezing in the silicone and then immediately screwing the drain line back in - I'm not sure I'll be able to unscrew the drain line after that though. 

I guess alternatively I could squeeze in the caulking and try to wipe off any excess and then let it cure before screwing the drain line back in?  I'd be a little concerned that the threads would be all filled up with silicone so it might not screw in anymore?

I just took a closer look at the picture I took and I suppose it's most important that whatever I use, I try to apply it as far back as possible.

Replacing the entire condensate pan isn't really feasible as I believe that would require having an HVAC tech come out and would require refrigerant recovery, cutting, brazing, etc.

Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Clamps and thoughts
« Last post by RKA on Today at 02:13 PM »
Closest equivalent I've found in the US are the heavy duty Piher clamps (Rockler sells a lighter duty as well as the heavy duty versions) or the Bessey rapid action clamps.
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