lambeater
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Location: British Columbia, Canada Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 381
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« on: June 03, 2012, 09:06 AM » |
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Morning guys, I need to cut a bunch of 1/8 strips on my table saw for edging. Anyone got easy, safe ways or jigs for doing it? Most strips need to be about 3ft long.
thx
Lambeater.
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Peter Parfitt
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Location: England Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 961
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« Reply #1 on: June 03, 2012, 09:53 AM » |
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Hi Lambeater
I use a lot of edging/inlay that I make up myself on my table saw. My strips are usually about 1/8" square (3-4mm). I cut from stock that is at least 6" longer than the strips that I need as sometimes the last few inches can be inaccurate. I do not use any jig, I keep the blade guard in place and have a scrap piece of wood as a push stick - the push stick is going to get really hammered hence the scrap piece of wood.
When the tail end of the stock is going past the blade, about the time that the push stick starts to get hit, I pull the stock from beyond the blade to get it through safely. I will attach a picture of a box with some inlay showing.
Good luck.
Peter
**** I forgot to mention ****
Since I got my CMS unit with the TS55R it has become so easy to do really accurate inlay strips. The old table saw is now history!
************************
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« Last Edit: June 03, 2012, 09:56 AM by Stone Message »
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Kapex 120, OF 2200, OF1400, TS55, TS55R, CMS-TS55R, PSC420, Domino 500, MFT3, Rotex 90, Rotex 150, CTL26, 1400 & 2700 Guide Rails and a lovely watch
Wish List: C15, HL850, BS75, DF700, Second Extractor, new secretary
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tjbnwi
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Location: Northwest Indiana Member Since: May 2008
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Cedar Tucky Indiana
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« Reply #2 on: June 03, 2012, 10:35 AM » |
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It has gotten to the point where I very rarely use my table saw. I would make these rips on the MFT with my TS. Here is how I do it, just adjust your spacer width; http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/how-i-rip-ff-and-door-pieces/There is also a post on how I rip pieces without the MFT in the Jigs/Tool Enhancement set ion of the forum. Tom |
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Peter James
Festool Dealer
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Location: USA Member Since: Feb 2012
Posts: 278
Festool Dealer Right Outside NYC - 10,000 Sq Feet
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« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2012, 12:16 PM » |
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Micro Jig GR-200?
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waho6o9
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Location: San Fernando Valley, Los Angeles California Member Since: Dec 2009
Posts: 471
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« Reply #4 on: June 03, 2012, 09:03 PM » |
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 +1 for the micro jig grr 200. |
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builderbob
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Location: Connecticut Member Since: Feb 2007
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« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2012, 09:38 PM » |
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+2 (hands) for the Grippr!!
Bob
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Kapex, TS55, Domino, MFK 700, OF 1400, OF 1010, RAS 115, RTS 400, ETS 150/3, ETS 125, CT 22 (2), C 12 (2), T-15+3, T-12+3, PSB 300 & more MFT's than i can count!
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PaulMarcel
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Location: Chandler AZ USA Member Since: Mar 2008
Posts: 1174
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« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2012, 11:19 PM » |
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I usually cut thin strips like that on the offcut side of the blade. I have a magnetic feather board; I put it backwards so I can use the back of it as a fence on the left side of the blade. After each cut, scoot the main fence over until the stock touches the back of the feather board. It's quick and even works on thinner cuts.
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Visit my blog for Festool adventures Shirt size: L  Twitter: @HalfInchShy |
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ericbuggeln
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« Reply #7 on: June 03, 2012, 11:30 PM » |
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Rockler makes a cheap jig for the method Paul explains. Material bumps up against ball bearing. Eric
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Chris Has Flair
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Location: Port Moody, BC Member Since: Nov 2010
Posts: 395
I make sculptural furniture.
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« Reply #8 on: June 04, 2012, 04:55 AM » |
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It's super easy with a sliding table saw and a short fence. I have also ripped multiple thin strips like that with the fence set to 1/8" and a push stick with a notch cut into it to push both the 1/8" piece and the offcut past the blade. Keep the push block against the fence and carry it and the stock right past the back of the blade.
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lambeater
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Location: British Columbia, Canada Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 381
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« Reply #9 on: June 04, 2012, 09:23 AM » |
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Thanks for the ideas guys. Ended up making a melamine jig that sits over the blade with and extra fence on the side. I did forget to mention that I was ripping bamboo lumber for cabinet edges, seems to peel away from the blade nice and cleanly. Also glues real nice on cabinet edges, and only need to hold in place with masking tape while setting up.
Lambeater.
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Sean Ackerman
Festool Dealer
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Location: Yorktown Heights, New York Member Since: Mar 2009
Posts: 1097
Festool Dealer near NYC - 10,000 sq feet!
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« Reply #10 on: June 04, 2012, 09:33 AM » |
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Lambeater, next time you're by a local Woodcraft, Rockler or good independent retailer, check out the Micro Jig in person. See the video we have setup here. It's a very cool accessory, super safe, and inexpensive to boot. They've been a hit since their introduction, I think about a year now. |
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lambeater
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Location: British Columbia, Canada Member Since: Apr 2010
Posts: 381
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« Reply #11 on: June 04, 2012, 09:51 AM » |
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Lambeater, next time you're by a local Woodcraft, Rockler or good independent retailer, check out the Micro Jig in person. See the video we have setup here. It's a very cool accessory, super safe, and inexpensive to boot. They've been a hit since their introduction, I think about a year now. Thx Sean, device looks very good, not sure how it allows you to rip long strips? or do you just use 2! Lambeater |
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Sean Ackerman
Festool Dealer
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Location: Yorktown Heights, New York Member Since: Mar 2009
Posts: 1097
Festool Dealer near NYC - 10,000 sq feet!
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« Reply #12 on: June 04, 2012, 09:52 AM » |
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Great question. You get this kit (most popular) Micro Jig Deluxe Kit |
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rdesigns
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Location: usa Member Since: Apr 2011
Posts: 169
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« Reply #13 on: June 04, 2012, 11:18 AM » |
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A very safe and simple jig will do this.
For strips 3' long, start with a scrap piece of ply or particle board about 4' long and about 6" wide. Across the back end, attach a support strip, or heel, the same thickness as the main board, and let it overhang the left side (assuming your saw's fence is to the right of the blade) by about 1/4".
To use it, set it tight to the saw's fence, and position the fence so that left edge of the jig is 1/8" from the blade. Place your stock against the jig and tight to the heel and run the whole thing along the fence with the heel pushing the stock thru. With the first cut, the heel will be cut to an overhang equal to your strips. Your hands need not come anywhere near the blade, and you can cut sucessive strips without adjusting the fence-to-blade distance.
A hand grip on the main board can be a simple cleat screwed to its upper face.
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