Author Topic: Barn makeover  (Read 9697 times)

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Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Barn makeover
« on: July 16, 2018, 06:56 AM »
Hello,

I've been lurking the FOG for a while now but never posted much. Anyway, I've just moved to a new (to me) house that has a barn-type building which I'm converting to my new woodworking shop. The inside dimensions are 27x21.

My first step was to clean up the walls and empty the building:





I did this yesterday but haven't taken "after" pictures. I've ran wiring and outlets for shop lights and 120v outlets around the walls. I'll post more pictures later.

The wire to the panel is only good for 40 amp and the run from the house is 150 ft. I've called an electrician to come and pull a new run but I'm not sure what I'll be able to do. My biggest tool right now is the A3-31 which is 4HP and I plan to have either a 3 or 5 HP Oneida cyclone. I also need enough capacity for my heating (and maybe cooling). Hopefully I can also squeeze a CAT6 in the conduit.

The existing wiring is bad, boxes with no connectors and fabric insulated wires. Everything is going away. I'll put in a sub panel that I saved from my previous shop (Siemens) since I have all the breakers I need and the existing panel (Square D) is pretty old. I'll have the electrician review the installation. I'm not sure if I need a local ground or not (Ontario).

I haven't decided what to do with the sink yet. It drains right outside the wall.

Offline Mario Turcot

  • Posts: 889
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2018, 07:32 AM »
Congrats on your new house & shop. Very nice building, your floor seems to be in good shape. Any plan on epoxy? If so do it first while it's empty  [big grin]. I did my floor with the BM kit when their paints went 50% off, cost me $125CAD and did it myself. Not a professional job but I like it, no concrete dust to mix with the wood dust.

The existing wiring is bad, boxes with no connectors and fabric insulated wires. Everything is going away. I'll put in a sub panel that I saved from my previous shop (Siemens) since I have all the breakers I need and the existing panel (Square D) is pretty old. I'll have the electrician review the installation. I'm not sure if I need a local ground or not (Ontario).

I haven't decided what to do with the sink yet. It drains right outside the wall.

Electrical installation are always dependent of local regulations. Hard to tell but in Québec you do not need of a dedicated ground if your sub-panel do not have a main switch. If the panel have a main switch you can put one to save the trouble to kick off your house main panel. I have a 200 amps main that feed my shop 100 amps. The Eaton 100 amp 20/40 package came with 12 breakers and just under $250CAD. The panel is almost full already with some twins breakers  [big grin]

Lightning: Get DEL.. my shop is 20x20 with 4 24"x24" DEL on each corners and a 12"x48" in the center, right over the table saw (no shadow). The DEL are expensive but really efficient, instant light with very large diffusion.

Post more pictures along with your changes.

P.S. Feed that dog  [tongue]
« Last Edit: July 16, 2018, 07:39 AM by Mario Turcot »
Mario

Offline neilc

  • Posts: 2650
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2018, 09:00 AM »
Nice looking space.  Plenty of room, solid floor and good height it looks like.

I’d leave the sink I think.  Handy to have for simple cleanup.  Not sure on exterior terrain but you could do a French drain if you can’t get the water away from the building easily. 

If you have not spent any time on GarageJournal, there are a ton of ideas on shop organization and buildout. 

Look forward to seeing progress photos.

Online RobBob

  • Posts: 1361
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2018, 09:14 AM »
Have you checked on having closed cell foam insulation professionally sprayed in?  I would think it would be worth the cost in Canada.

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2018, 11:06 AM »
I'm making some progress.

Most of the old wiring is gone and I have the old subpanel disconnected and mine is installed. I wonder if the electrician would be able to pull the old feed out and pull new wires.



It looks like 6 gauge, the current breaker is 40 amps... I think 4 gauge would work for 150 feet and 60 amp but that might be too little if I need electric heat/cooling.



For insulation I've purchased R12 fiberglass.

For the floors, I think I'll go with sleepers 12" on center and rigid insulation in between, then poly and 3/4 OSB. Down the road maybe add pine or some hard laminate.

My dogs are whippets, that's how they look... racing dogs. :)

The sink is made of concrete! I nearly lost a leg when I pulled it and its metal legs bent.
« Last Edit: July 16, 2018, 11:37 AM by ERG »

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 5993
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2018, 12:31 PM »
It looks like you've got some aded storage space upstairs. Is it tall enough to stand up in?

The concrete wash tub is both a boon and a bane. They'll last forever and nothing destroys them except for a 10# maul. They do however take up a lot of room. I had one in the basement that I removed and then substituted a stainless sink instead. I still consider that a good move.

FWIW...I think you're going to need 100 amp service when you add up all the machine tools, electrical outlets, lighting and the heating/cooling draw. I think 60 amp would be the bare bones minimum.

I like to keep the high voltage and low voltage wires separate. I'd run the CAT 6 alone or in its own conduit. It may also be an electrical code issue in your area.

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2018, 04:37 PM »
Hey Cheese, yes there is headspace on the second floor, it's actually a pretty big space. I want to make real stairs with a turn to get up there.



I just noticed that the previous owner chopped up the 2x4 around the window. Something I'll have to fix.

I had 60 in my previous shop and it was close. I haven't had a chance to price out the 4 gauge wire yet. I think I have direct bury right now and the 1.5 conduit is just a sleeve. I will have to rent a trencher and figure that out...

I made more progress so far today. Finished the 120v around the walls and the ceiling for the shop lights and put my old fluorescent lights. I put in my Siemens panel.

I removed all the old wiring and the junction boxes the P.O. had. I need to figure out the best way to rewire the outside lights. All my receptacles are hanging until I put something on the wall and ceiling.




« Last Edit: July 16, 2018, 04:39 PM by ERG »

Offline JBag09

  • Posts: 221
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2018, 06:14 PM »
I know for a fact that you need a double 30 amp breaker for the Oneida V 5000 (5hp). If you go with heating and cooling, just for an example, a split unit 1.5 tons, mine needed a double 20 amp breaker.


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Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2018, 05:38 AM »
Yeah... I can't wait to see how much 150 ft of 1/3 direct bury cost.

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 986
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2018, 07:23 AM »
@ERG if that panel pictured above is the panel you are going to use, seriously consider getting a new bigger one. If you are going to the expense of running 100 amps out there, you will really need to have a panel with more breaker spaces. If you add any 240 circuits you'll quickly run out of spaces in that panel. Main breaker panels are relatively cheap. You'll use the main breaker as a local disconnect.

Offline Mario Turcot

  • Posts: 889
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #10 on: July 17, 2018, 08:37 AM »
Yeah... I can't wait to see how much 150 ft of 1/3 direct bury cost.

Price for copper wire is crazy, 3 times aluminium. Go alu. req. one size bigger and use Anti-oxidant Compound at both ends.

Are you going Teck or PVC?
Mario

Offline JBag09

  • Posts: 221
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2018, 12:17 PM »
I used URD cable, aluminum. And yes go one size bigger. Cost me about half as much, but I only had half the distance to run mine.


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Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #12 on: July 17, 2018, 03:25 PM »
Thanks for the advice @rvieceli. I haven't thought of that. I don't think i need many circuits but it would be nice to have the disconnect in the panel.

@Mario Turcot I'll wait to see what the electrician proposes.

@JBag09 I see that Alu is much cheaper, I haven't found a site where the pricing is listed yet. Any idea of the cost?

Offline JBag09

  • Posts: 221
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #13 on: July 17, 2018, 03:51 PM »
I know I got a good price since I’m friends with one of the salesmen at a local electrical supplier. For the 75 feet I needed, I think my cost was $1.59 per foot. That was for 2-2-2-4 URD. You better check with your electrician with how big of a wire will fit in a 100 amp breaker.


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Offline Mario Turcot

  • Posts: 889
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #14 on: July 21, 2018, 04:10 PM »
Here is a link to my panel setup.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2018, 10:15 AM by Mario Turcot »
Mario

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #15 on: July 26, 2018, 10:14 AM »
That's one tidy panel Mario.

Sorry for the lack of updates on the barn, I've started a new project. I am remodeling an in-law suite that I can rent so I can get $$$ to put towards the barn.

The electrician is coming next week to put a panel in the barn and one in the apartment...

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #16 on: October 21, 2018, 08:55 AM »
Hi!

So the barn project hasn't been abandoned, it was just on hold while I work on another long term house project. Anyway, winter is around the corner so I wanted to put the new feed in before the ground freezes. A neighbor came with his mini excavator and got the trench dug for me. The electrician is coming tomorrow to hook up a new panel. I'm doing as suggested, putting a full size 100a panel.


Offline Mario Turcot

  • Posts: 889
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #17 on: October 21, 2018, 10:38 AM »
Beauty!  [big grin]
Mario

Offline Garry

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Barn makeover
« Reply #18 on: October 25, 2018, 10:35 AM »
Nice space!

 If I had that, I’d put my dust collector and compressor upstairs, just to save shop space and cut down on a little noise.

(I know tools are loud but the sound of vacs and compressors irritate me[emoji2957])

I am a low voltage contractor and I would suggest putting the cat 6 in its own conduit after 6” of back fill above the electrical to the main house.  I do know it’s against code here in the US to have low voltage lines in with high, but not sure about Canada.
http://www.avidhome.com  You're only young once, but you can be immature forever!

Offline Mario Turcot

  • Posts: 889
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #19 on: October 25, 2018, 11:01 AM »
Nice space!

 If I had that, I’d put my dust collector and compressor upstairs, just to save shop space and cut down on a little noise.

(I know tools are loud but the sound of vacs and compressors irritate me[emoji2957])

I am a low voltage contractor and I would suggest putting the cat 6 in its own conduit after 6” of back fill above the electrical to the main house.  I do know it’s against code here in the US to have low voltage lines in with high, but not sure about Canada.

I tried to find out exactly what the Canadian code says about low voltage and quess what? You have to by the book, $180CAD for part I, not sure how many parts there is  [scared]

I'm pretty sure they have to be separate. Wondering if the cat6 cable is by default shielded?
Mario

Offline Garry

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Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #20 on: October 25, 2018, 11:22 AM »
Nice space!

 If I had that, I’d put my dust collector and compressor upstairs, just to save shop space and cut down on a little noise.

(I know tools are loud but the sound of vacs and compressors irritate me[emoji2957])

I am a low voltage contractor and I would suggest putting the cat 6 in its own conduit after 6” of back fill above the electrical to the main house.  I do know it’s against code here in the US to have low voltage lines in with high, but not sure about Canada.

I tried to find out exactly what the Canadian code says about low voltage and quess what? You have to by the book, $180CAD for part I, not sure how many parts there is  [scared]

I'm pretty sure they have to be separate. Wondering if the cat6 cable is by default shielded?

You can get shielded cat6 but it is not standard.   You can also get direct burial, but I’m no a big fan of having wire in dirt.
http://www.avidhome.com  You're only young once, but you can be immature forever!

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 5993
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #21 on: October 25, 2018, 11:41 AM »
Here's some interesting Cat 6 I stumbled upon the other day. It's direct burial with gel inside the jacket to prevent water ingress.

Also at the bottom of the page is some Cat 5E that's shielded.

https://www.parts-express.com/cat-6-550-mhz-direct-bury-gel-1000-ft--101-440

Offline glenn storey

  • Posts: 14
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #22 on: October 25, 2018, 11:43 AM »
Nice space!

 If I had that, I’d put my dust collector and compressor upstairs, just to save shop space and cut down on a little noise.

(I know tools are loud but the sound of vacs and compressors irritate me[emoji2957])

I am a low voltage contractor and I would suggest putting the cat 6 in its own conduit after 6” of back fill above the electrical to the main house.  I do know it’s against code here in the US to have low voltage lines in with high, but not sure about Canada.

I tried to find out exactly what the Canadian code says about low voltage and quess what? You have to by the book, $180CAD for part I, not sure how many parts there is  [scared]

I'm pretty sure they have to be separate. Wondering if the cat6 cable is by default shielded?

call an electrical supplier, such as Paul Wolf, or Torbram Electric and ask them. They should tell you what you need to know.

Offline glenn storey

  • Posts: 14
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #23 on: October 25, 2018, 11:45 AM »
oh, and if you're in Ottawa, R12 ain't gonna cut it.

Offline Mario Turcot

  • Posts: 889
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #24 on: October 25, 2018, 01:21 PM »
oh, and if you're in Ottawa, R12 ain't gonna cut it.

In fact I live just across the river, Québec code is slightly different then Ontario  [eek]

Glenn, I believe Erg is looking to run an ethernet cable. Last summer I ran 3 PVC, 2" for thr 100amps panel and 2x 3/4" for future. The 2" is at 7' deep just a feet over the drain pipe and the 2x 3/4" at about 4' deep. However, when hitting the foundation all 3 pipes are close to each other  [blink]
Mario

Online Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3770
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #25 on: October 25, 2018, 07:26 PM »
Here's some interesting Cat 6 I stumbled upon the other day. It's direct burial with gel inside the jacket to prevent water ingress.

Years ago, we used to work with multi-hundred pair burial telephone able that was similarly heavily sheathed, shielded and silicon-gel-filled.  We called it "Icky-PIC".  One didn't want to get any of the icky goop on clothing since it would never come out. 
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 5993
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #26 on: October 25, 2018, 10:22 PM »
Years ago, we used to work with multi-hundred pair burial telephone able that was similarly heavily sheathed, shielded and silicon-gel-filled.  We called it "Icky-PIC".  One didn't want to get any of the icky goop on clothing since it would never come out.

So Sparky, aside from the fact you had to wash your hands and clothing in gasoline...did that stuff work or was it just a hindrance?

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #27 on: October 26, 2018, 06:22 PM »
Hi! I bought 500 ft of direct burial UTP cat6 for the shop. Pure copper 23 awg. I called the company and the recommended this for my application, which is to run an IP camera and access point with PoE.

CABLE-V014 is the product on amazon. 

I also got a 30 slot 100A Siemens breaker panel from lowes with a breaker package, $170. I price matched it from homedepot and got 10% off.

« Last Edit: October 26, 2018, 06:25 PM by ERG »

Online Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3770
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #28 on: October 27, 2018, 08:40 AM »
Years ago, we used to work with multi-hundred pair burial telephone able that was similarly heavily sheathed, shielded and silicon-gel-filled.  We called it "Icky-PIC".  One didn't want to get any of the icky goop on clothing since it would never come out.

So Sparky, aside from the fact you had to wash your hands and clothing in gasoline...did that stuff work or was it just a hindrance?

It works well to keep moisture out of burial cables, but it really makes a huge mess with everything it touches.  We often had to just throw away our contaminated clothing because the stuff didn't want to come out.   [bite tongue]
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline Garry

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    • AVID
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #29 on: October 27, 2018, 11:34 PM »
The silicone flooded stuff is effective, but awful to work with. I do not care for it.
http://www.avidhome.com  You're only young once, but you can be immature forever!

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 5993
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #30 on: October 28, 2018, 12:34 AM »
It works well to keep moisture out of burial cables, but it really makes a huge mess with everything it touches.  We often had to just throw away our contaminated clothing because the stuff didn't want to come out.   [bite tongue]

Thanks for that. 🙏
Well then my question becomes, if you were running cable to your own homestead, would you use the silicone filled stuff or not?

And if not, what would be the options you'd be comfortable with?

Online Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3770
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #31 on: October 28, 2018, 10:36 AM »
It works well to keep moisture out of burial cables, but it really makes a huge mess with everything it touches.  We often had to just throw away our contaminated clothing because the stuff didn't want to come out.   [bite tongue]

Thanks for that. 🙏
Well then my question becomes, if you were running cable to your own homestead, would you use the silicone filled stuff or not?

And if not, what would be the options you'd be comfortable with?

Direct burial cable (Type UF) doesn't have the silicone fill.  It's nonetheless a real booger to work with, but I've never had it leak unless there was an immediate cause, like a nick by someone digging in the vicinity.  I've come to like liquidtight conduit (Type LFMC) with a pull string, provided someone doesn't inadvertently pull out the pull string. 
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline Alanbach

  • Posts: 296
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #32 on: October 28, 2018, 11:57 AM »
When I did my shop I wanted a low voltage run and some room for growth. After hearing what I wanted, my electrician told me what kind of pvc conduit to buy and he gave me a bunch of pull string. I glued the conduit together and ran the pull string through it as I went. All the electrician had to do was kick it into the trench and add the fittings to bring the two new pvc conduits up into place. He properly buried the voltage conduits to comply with code and then to also give enough room between the low voltage extra conduits and the voltage wires before I topped off the trench. It cost me almost nothing more than the parts. I have used those conduits twice in the last ten years. Just don’t forget to run a new pull cord when you use the existing one to pull a new wire.

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #33 on: March 24, 2019, 09:49 PM »
Alright boys, I'm back at work on the barn...

Bought some windows at the end of summer and the weather was nice enough to install them.



Hooked up the new panel just before it started snowing last year. Does that look up to code? Just kidding, it's a temporary circuit I put on while I was re-framing the windows.

I'll be pulling the wire I put in last year and I'll start from scratch with 12/2 and 20 amps circuits.

I have an issue I need advice with. Water is seeping under the cinder blocks of the footer. I plan to have a nice finished floor there so we can't have water, obviously. I looked at parging the outside but it doesn't look like that helps with waterproofing. I see rubber product I might be able to paint on but I'm not sure how good that would be. Any ideas?


 

Offline rvieceli

  • Posts: 986
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #34 on: March 24, 2019, 10:24 PM »
@ERG you need to keep the water away from the building rather than attempting to keep the water out once it gets there.
if you have gutters make sure that they are clear and the downspouts empty and flow away from the base of the building. If you don't have gutters, consider installing.

Make sure the surrounding grade slopes away from the foundation and doesn't let water pool around the base. if it's not possible to totally slope away from the base, consider sloping to a ditch a few feet away from the building that then runs the water away.

If that doesn't work then you may need to also trench around the foundation and install a French drain that drains to daylight ideally or a dry well.

Ron

Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 5993
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #35 on: March 24, 2019, 10:48 PM »
Ya Ron’s got this one handled entirely. Gutters and a slope away from the building are your friends.

One other thing to consider is if the building doesn’t have gutters, look at where the roof ends in relation to the ground. After many years of runoff from the roof, the constant pounding of the rain can make a 4"-5" wide trench around the building that’s perpendicular to the edge of the roof. A mini moat of sorts is formed around the building and prevents the water from draining properly. Worse yet, if there isn't a steep pitch away from the building, the mini moat will fill up and water will flow back to the building.  [eek]

Easy to fix, just add gutters and add soil to provide a proper continuous slope away from the building.

If you don’t like 10’ gutter extensions laying on the ground to interfere with grass mowing, just install 10’ pvc extensions underground with pop up water emitters. They work real slick.
« Last Edit: March 25, 2019, 08:33 AM by Cheese »

Online Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3770
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #36 on: March 25, 2019, 09:22 AM »
I'd add that it might be a really good idea to install foundation drains, too, with leaders that carry water well away from the structure.  Then you can feed the gutters into the drains.  Mo' bettah good, yah?  Once you get it proven dry, then you can epoxy the concrete and do it right.   [smile]
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline Mario Turcot

  • Posts: 889
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #37 on: March 25, 2019, 12:38 PM »
@ERG

One thing to consider about electrical panel is vibration. There is vibration everywhere, when it comes to electrical installation it's a real P.I.T.A. to find out the source of problem.

Tips:
-After 12 months you get your panel setup, revisit every breaker screws if you are using bolt-on breakers. For the clip-on breakers I suggest that you check the wire connection and apply good pressure on each breaker from the central bus.

As an industrial electrician I did my fair share of building shutdown inspections.  It's amazing how many breakers/connections come loose in a 12 months period.
Mario

Offline Tinker

  • Posts: 3709
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #38 on: March 25, 2019, 04:43 PM »
From the pic you showed it looks like the sills are barely above ground. It looks like you have a good slope all around. at least on the down hill side. You are in a cold climate and good grading is important. A french drain all around where the drip line from the roof. I don't know what temperatures you will be dealing with. Once heat is in the barn, i think the slope to the lower roof will shed snow and the ice buildup will not create a dam at the eaves. i don't think your should install gutters. You have good grade and a good french drain to grade should be adequate. Better make the surface of the stone a little lower than grade to catch water from snowmelt and rain. From your photo, it looks like you may have vertical siding. Whatever siding you have, see if it is possible to tuck flashing under the siding and down at least to ground level along the foundation.  It you can afford to regrade around the foundation, get the gradeatleast afoot down from the sills. That might not be possible if the footings are not deep enough.

When i was in construction, it is funny, i almost never was called to fix water problem when a house was close to a swamp. All the problems were on high ground like your barn is. The responder who suggested don't try to get rid of the water after it gets into the building, just figure out how to get it away from the building before it gets in. you had good grade on the one side of the barn. I can't tell what the other side is, but you do have change to drain the water well awayfrom the building. I don't recommend the gutters in your climate asi mentioned above. I have had to shovel many roofs in heavy snow year. All had gutters. And, they were way down here in Connecticut. I think you just might have a little more snow in your area. Maybe not so much ice involvement with winter storms. I don't know about that.

Stay away from dry wells to catch all the water from the roof unless you have excellent drainage. Heavy rain after the gound is already saturated from week of rain, and all the wells can be full and then you have more problems.

Tinker
Wayne H. Tinker

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #39 on: March 25, 2019, 07:45 PM »
Thanks all for your good advice. Sounds like I'll have to do some digging this summer. I can't see another way to manage the water other than having a dry well, it's pretty flat all around. What do you suggest?

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #40 on: March 25, 2019, 08:50 PM »
Also, how do you suggest I insulate the cinder blocks? I was thinking of a layer of rigid insulation and then plywood to protect it.


Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #41 on: March 31, 2019, 09:23 PM »
I made a little bit of progress this weekend. I've decided to fur out the studs to 2x6 to have better insulation. I've also found that 2x6 insulation is more readily available on kijiji so I've been able to purchase half of what I need for half of the price of 2x4 R12.

Here's how it looks so far:




I had some roxul left from another project and used it where the thickness was less than 2x6. The window headers got filled with roxul 2x4 and will get 2 inch of rigid to help with thermal bridging.

I didn't do the lower section yet because I have more circuits to run.

Quite a bit of water running under the foundation right now and there isn't much I can do until the ground thaws. 

Offline Bob D.

  • Posts: 1048
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #42 on: April 01, 2019, 04:23 AM »
Looks like you will have a nice big shop when you're done.

Is there a reason to use unfaced insulation or maybe you plan on a separate moisture retarder of plastic.

That fluorescent lamp in the trash pile worries me. They contain mercury (<10mg per bulb) and that one is positioned to be easily broken.
-----
It's a table saw, do you know where your fingers are?

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #43 on: April 01, 2019, 06:44 AM »
@Bob D. They don't sell it faced here because you have to use 6 mil vapor barrier on top of your insulation. That will go on after the bats are all on.

Everything in there keeps getting moved around, that fluorescent is going to the hazardous material bin at work today.

Offline Jiggy Joiner

  • Posts: 419
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #44 on: April 02, 2019, 07:25 AM »
That’s a beautiful building, and will make a superb workshop.
We have had jobs where water has been coming in right at base level, and we usually dig out, and water proof the bricks or blocks with a bitumen like coating, or even lead flashing, then run an Aco drainage ststem all around the perimeter of the building. Then run the gutter downpipes into the drain also. This cures the problem.

It’s looking great though, I’d love that in my back garden!

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #45 on: April 02, 2019, 07:34 AM »

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #46 on: April 26, 2019, 09:58 AM »
I've been making slow progress, mostly working on wiring.

I've pulled the 14/2 I had and replaced it with 12/2 and made my wall outlets a 20A circuit. I've ran another 250v/20a circuit around the shop for my machines and got sweet double receptacles. I had wire leftover from my house work and ran a 50A circuit for a welder.

I also ran 8 gauge wire to where my dust collector will be. Right now it will be a 30A circuit for my Felder RL125 but I will be able to upgrade down the road if I need to. I had the wire so no cost there.

Added a dedicated circuit for the boiler I plan to use for heat. One more circuit for outside outlets and lights. I have to run two more circuits for the loft outlets and lights.

It's hard figuring out everything before I can put the vapor barrier on the walls. 

I think I will build the stairs this weekend or change the exterior door. I will try to post pictures later.

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #47 on: May 16, 2019, 08:12 AM »
Alright, I haven't been around for a while, I've been working on things around the house...

Here's some progress for those following.

I borrowed a bobcat and back filled the trench and moved my tools in the barn.



I re-framed the door opening and put in a new door. You can see new windows have also been put in.



I terminated the CAT6 cable and put in a PoE switch for a camera and access point.



I built some stairs and removed the original ones, finished most of the insulation on two walls and added the vapor barrier. I also put 8 new LED shoplights.



Next steps is to run the last circuit for the loft, add junction boxes for the outside lights, frame a temporary wall over the sliding barn door opening so I can remove its hardware and insulate the last wall.

Online Sparktrician

  • Posts: 3770
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #48 on: May 16, 2019, 07:26 PM »
It would be a good idea to install a whole-house surge protector in the shop panel (as well as in the main panel in the house, if you don't have one). 
- Willy -

 "Remember, a chip on the shoulder is a sure sign of wood higher up." - Brigham Young

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #49 on: May 23, 2019, 09:16 PM »
@Sparktrician Alright I'll look into it, thanks.

Here's some more insulation and vapor barrier progress. I've removed the sliding barn door because the rail was on a plywood wall that I needed to open for insulation. I have OSB temporary.

 





I had an energy audit done on my house and that really showed how much air is coming through the outlets when under negative pressure so now I tape the heck of out every opening.

I left poly on top so I can close the joist cavity after I insulate it. Right now I just wanted to clear the walls so I can start using my tools again.

I think I will put 2 inch rigid insulation around the cinder blocks, and lay poly over before I put flooring down.

Offline Cheese

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Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #50 on: May 24, 2019, 09:39 AM »
It's coming along nicely. Those LEDs seem to throw a lot of light. Which ones are you using?

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #51 on: May 27, 2019, 10:18 AM »
@Cheese
Not sure what's the policy on links here but they were from amazon "Linkable LED Shop light for garages,4FT 4500LM,40W 5000K Daylight White" I paid $132 CAD for a pack of 4.

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #52 on: May 30, 2019, 07:39 AM »
I was busy last weekend but I've managed to make progress. I've decided to go with fiberglass for my roof insulation to save $2500 compared to spray foam. With that decision made, I went ahead and insulated my rim joists, tied in my vapor barrier and used acoustic sealer to go around the joist. While I was there, I've added blocks so I can put drywall in between the joists.

It doesn't look like much but it was a few hours to get it done.



I think I'll work on making doors for the front opening next. The plywood here is temporary.

Offline Mario Turcot

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Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #53 on: May 31, 2019, 03:36 PM »
@ERG I'm also planning on a surge protector. Here the best option I found so far on Amazon very simple to install.

It's coming nicely, looks like you had a lot of fun with the Tuck Tape  [tongue]
« Last Edit: May 31, 2019, 03:39 PM by Mario Turcot »
Mario

Offline ERG

  • Posts: 34
Re: Barn makeover
« Reply #54 on: June 04, 2019, 08:55 AM »
@Mario Turcot
I had the energy audit done on my house and realized how much air comes through the outlets on external walls. I figure a little tape is cheap and goes a long way for air tightness.

The tape wasn't bad but the acoustic sealer is a bit of a pain to apply. I'm not sure if it ever dries. I think it just stays sticky forever.