That is partially because MT55 has 1.8 mm blade, while TS55 has 2.2 mm. A ~20% difference.

Possibly using an HKC blade on a TS 55 would help the down on power problem.

Quote from: yetihunter on April 21, 2018, 07:41 AM

Quote from: morts10n on April 20, 2018, 11:26 PM

For most of the time I've owned the Carvex, it has been an out of adjustment, blade-rattling POS. I'll put it and both of my Trions up for sale for $25 each to help finance a good jigsaw.... the Mafell methinks

Yikes! Anyway, the P1CC is seriously a beast.  I've done cuts with fine blades with zero pendulum action that other machines would require setting 3 and a rough blade.   It's a timber framing tool, though, so I would expect that power (and with great power comes great heat).

I'm sure you know all of the good news, so I'll mention a few gripes/growing pains so that they don't catch you by surprise.   

You have to lock the foot, foots, feet, footsies beyond the point where you think you're breaking the lever/catch to secure it.  Otherwise, it will come loose and that beast will dance and then come flying at the operator.   Obviously, once the operator knows this, it is no longer an issue.

It gets EXTREMELY hot and fast.  That's the caveat of being extreme, I suppose.
The caveat of barrel grips is that your hand is meant to be precisely on the hottest point.   

The angle foot can be annoying.  It bevels one direction, so you have a 50/50 chance of putting the foot on the wrong side and then having to take it off, turn it around, and put it on again.   

Internally, the logic board is not mechanically secured.  It's supposed to be a friction fit between plastic (no screws), but it's generally floating a bit.  The speed adjustment is definitely floating, and flimsey.

It does what it's supposed to do, though.

The P1cc is a jigsaw and not a timber framing tool. Mafell has these, but they are not jig saws by any stretch. I have a P1cc and have had a Trion and Carvex. I bought the Carvex to replace the Trion that had reached its end of life. It was a complete disappointment that pushed me toward the P1cc. I think I would have been just as happy with another Trion, but that said I am not at all disappointed with the P1cc and like that it works with the Mafell rails. Mine has never gotten extremely hot as you describe, but definitely has been warmer than one might expect. The foot and latch are non-issues that never affected me and I have never had a problem attaching the foot or having it come loose. That might be because I took a few minutes looking it over before using it. As for the logic board I don't see how this is an issue. I've never heard of it causing any problems. The P1cc is a well-built tool that has a long life ahead of it.

I was being playful and cheeky.  I love my P1cc.

Yep. DC is good on the P1CC. You can feel it just running the saw with no extractor hooked up. I think this could work with a dust bag if one had the desire to hook it up.

The Mafell is great all around. But, Mafell has some duds too...I broke my first P1CC as the needle bearing broke. It was an easy fix by Timberwolf and now my old saw is/was there demo saw as mine was covered in warranty and they just got me a new machine. It is a jigsaw...a great one in my opinion, but my first one did break...so not impervious.

So, the amount of dust on the floor is about the same (+/- 20%) for all saws. Makes no difference for cleanup. What am I missing?

This thread first appeared at the same time as another thread that was questioning how efficient the DC was on a jig saw. In particular, the OP wanted to compare the Carvex, Trion & Mafell. I tried to locate that thread but no luck.

Also of interest to several individuals, was is it better for the saw to have a small blower to clear the cut line or was it better to try to vacuum up the dust.

Well, the Mafell has both and it’s quite obvious that the cut line is kept scrupulously clean with that arrangement.

Photo #8 is just pretty darn impressive. I think I counted 10 pieces of dust.

So Svar...what am I missing?

I have had three Carvex jigsaws over the years and I have regretted every single one of them. Two out of three had serious blade eject problems and none would cut straight in thicker wood regardless of blade, speed or pendulum setting. The Trion has worked better for me as did my old Bosch jigsaw. Maybe it is my "lack of training" but the Carvex is way too complicated with a "system" approach requiring the footprint of a SYS 4  for something as simple (and not really exact a) cutting tool as a jigsaw.

I got my self the overpriced and similarly complicated P1cc with no regrets. Everything fits in a SYS 1. The one thing I would love to see is a cordless P1cc. The Mafell P1cc is brought out on rare occasions but mostly resides in the workshop with the pigtail curled up nicely from the posterior. It is a joy to use though.

The Carvex isn't the worst jigsaw on the market - far from it - but for the price I think it is the worst buy.

Last time I ditched the Carvex I got me a seemingly horrible and cheap Hitachi top handle jigsaw as a stop gap solution - which to my surprise handles better than the Carvex and I till use it as my go to jig saw on site. It performs like a champ. Does not cut very straight in thicker wood (just like the Carvex) for longer cuts so I don't use it for that purpose.  Top handle jigsaws was never my choice but I find I cut much better with the Hitachi from underneath the material than any other jigsaw I have used. Trigger is variable speed and I love that it revs and stops immediately which helps with tricky cuts. Simple saw that does the job. Love it.

I rank the Hitachi top handle 18V as my best buy jigsaw of all times for price and field performance, knowing that it would probably not stand up to heavier decking jobs and/or abuse. 

I have found that removing the base with the splinter guard still attached and then changing the blade and putting the base back on is the easiest way to go. You can remove the splinter guard from the base much easier when the base is off the jigsaw. I have not found it necessary to change splinter guards for every blade charge.