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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Milwaukee 12V CXS Copy
« Last post by CarlsonCarpentry on Today at 05:23 PM »

Yes. I did have to remember to use the drill with my middle finger on the trigger. That allows very easy thumb access to the button.
I didn’t use this drill to bore it, it was a pre bored door. I’m not sure it would be up the task but I’ll try it sometime anyway.
Yes it fits nicely in a sys mini. May put it in a sys 1 with the m12 impact but that works for now.
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@cs281  the bigger problem will be if the grooves created in your saw base aren’t equal, due to the way you apply pressure with your grip, then the saw will no longer cut at 90*. This will be more noticeable on deeper cuts.

 I see no reason why you couldn’t swap the bike Makita glide strips from the green Festool ones and solve this issue, but do it sooner than later!

All my Makita rails are relatively new. I'm thinking of replacing glide strips. It's $40 for 10m roll (Festool 491741 Glide Strip).
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Thanks for the detailed advice Brice! Both would be great, but I can't justify the expense.

Demographic,

Right now I'm using a piece of zip-r sheathing. I'm not sure if they have it in the UK. Its just a sheet of OSB with foam insulation bonded to the back side.

MR B,

This is how I use my TS currently. I had a few incidences of back kick back when I first got the saw and now I'm not really comfortable plunge cutting. I really can't think of a time I've needed a really beautiful plunge cut. I just do that with a regular skilsaw.

This thread has not convinced me that I don't want an HK, but hasn't really convinced me that it's worth trading in. haha. I bought a short Makita rail reeeeal cheap and I think I might spend some time trying to fab together a decent crosscut jig.
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I have a large 4'x8' work table utilizing 3-piece MFT slabs that I can assemble in 5-minutes or less. My original plan was to use the slabs with bench dogs and rails for my work...then I bought a TSO Square (GRS16-PE). Since then I have been exclusively using the GRS with a rail for my crosscutting.

Only slight issue I have is when crosscutting narrower boards with a shorter 39" rail the rail wants to pivot upwards due to the weight of the track saw.

Anyone found a work around for this?


Thanks
Mike
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Member Projects / Re: Kosso Telephone Table build
« Last post by Gregor on Today at 04:53 PM »
Very nice execution.

Though for some reason this thing reminds me of the necronomicon from Ash vs. Evil, it somehow feels as it's alive when I look at it (especially on the pictures that were taken outside). I think the wood is a bit to animated for my eyes, so they play tricks on me. Well, at least I hope ;)

One question: are you happy with your shaper?
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I visited my local Felder showroom on Friday.  I was told at some point the technology will work it's way down to the Felder machines but probably not the Hammer line.

I'd probably argue with the Felder showroom people about that statement.  And win.  Due to the cost and newness of the Felder safety system, it is being only offered on the industrial machines.  Multi million dollar companies spending millions on equipment each year and depreciating it over 20 years are not too concerned with a few thousand dollars.  For home owners buying woodworking equipment for a hobby, one thousand, ten thousand, twenty five thousand means a bit more.  But once the price comes down and the demand goes up, Felder will put the safety feature in their Hammer line too.  Assuming Hammer is the hobby homeowner tool.  Think about air conditioning for cars.  At first it was only available in the luxury models as an expensive option.  Then it got to more models as a luxury option.  Then it became a standard option on almost every car.  Then it became a standard feature that isn't even an option anymore.  You automatically get air conditioning just like you automatically get seatbelts and airbags.  Why?  Because almost no one would buy a car without air conditioning today.  Maybe the Felder saw safety feature will get to that point someday.  It comes with the saw just like all saws have motors and fences and blades.
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Makita track versus Festool Track
« Last post by mrB on Today at 04:39 PM »
@cs281  the bigger problem will be if the grooves created in your saw base aren’t equal, due to the way you apply pressure with your grip, then the saw will no longer cut at 90*. This will be more noticeable on deeper cuts.

 I see no reason why you couldn’t swap the bike Makita glide strips from the green Festool ones and solve this issue, but do it sooner than later!
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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Milwaukee 12V CXS Copy
« Last post by Dick Mahany on Today at 04:24 PM »
Well I have returned to “eat crow”.

I thought I would try out the drill even after being the loudest critic of the fed/rvs switch...
It is an awesome drill. The switch location is a bit quirky and time will fell if it will hold up for 5+ years but for now I’m pretty happy.

I’m usually switching between 2 drills and an impact for door installs but I hung this Dutch door with just this drill. I’m sure not having to switch back and forth between drills with traditional switch locations helped. But hey I had fun.

Glad to hear that switch isn't so bad after all.  Nice door!  Did you also use the drill to bore the holes for the lockset?  Also, is that a Sys Mini that you have the drill/chucks in? 

If I didn't already have the Bosch FlexiClick, I'd jump one the Milwaukee.
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Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Festool Grinder AGC 18v (Europe)
« Last post by mrB on Today at 04:22 PM »
I thought the rotation on that specific Festool grinder was the other way round so that the blade isn’t pulling though you the cut, but rather pushing through like a circular saw. ?
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Personally I much prefer my TS55 to my HKC. Way more power (the HK is prob better than HKC in this though) and the quality of the cut is better with a lot less tear out. I don’t find using it on the regular rails a problem (not talking plunging here, that is a little less refined) as I just slide it on at the beginning of the rail so the rail pushes the guard out of the way on its own. There is also a lever to retract the guard but it’s in the inside of the saw, by the handle, not on the blade guard it’s self.

If cross cutting timbers was a big reason to own the saw, then the HK series obviously wins. But for most everything else I prefer the TS.
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