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Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Next Step: Jointer and Planer Question
« Last post by Alanbach on Yesterday at 11:55 PM »
I’ve been collecting tools and skills for thirty plus years now. My shop is a dedicated two car garage, no cars. Take my word for it, if you stick with this hobby space will eventually become an issue. I own a Grizzly 20” planer and a Jet 8” jointer. I love them (even though they aren’t helical) but I definitely have my days when I would like to have the space that a combo unit would afford me.

People seem to love the Dewalt lunchbox planers. They are not super expensive and can easily be resold if and when you are ready to upgrade. Powermatic and Jet are great 15” planers and the Hammer is reported to be a great choice. Grizzly also has some great choices but you have to do your research carefully. The voltage requirements of these machines may weigh into your choices. If you believe that you will be into woodworking for many years then take the plunge and wire your shop with 220V to support whatever machines you decide are right for you, don’t let the voltage guide you.

I agree with jobsworth that you can probably do without a jointer for a while. Some decent lumber as he described, maybe a very high quality 30 tooth rip blade to cut glue ready rip edges on a high quality table saw with a great fence and a couple of jigs to straighten the occasional rough edge (if you don’t have a track saw). Don’t get me wrong, I love my jointer and I use it more than my planner but that is because I have both.

It all just depends on how much you want to spend and if you want to go big from the beginning as well as how opposed you are to upgrading later. So many ways to go.
Ask Festool / Re: centrotec quick release holder for ball detent bits
« Last post by ScotF on Yesterday at 11:44 PM »
I think this is coming to North America on October 1st...FWIW.
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Next Step: Jointer and Planer Question
« Last post by deepcreek on Yesterday at 11:43 PM »
It depends on what you're building and how straight/flat you want your lumber.

For instance if the only issue with your S2S board is crown, a tracksaw can give you a "jointed" edge without a jointer and arguably a parallel edge (if your offset is perfect) that is normally achieved with a table saw.

Years ago, I bought a lot of S4S hardwoods but they still tended to have at least a small amount of bow, cup, crown/crook, twist, kink or some combination even with careful stock selection.  That's fine for trim that can be forced and held in position with fasteners.  It works okay for cabinet face frames held in position with pocket screws and sanded flush.  It is a problem for any kind of door.  It's a complete no go for stain grade furniture.

I always wondered how S4S lumber wasn't perfect until I realized that most mills just run it through a surfacer that flattens both sides at the same time and then a gang rip saw to cut both edges.  The feed rollers force the board into position and this does next to nothing to remove irregularities.  Bowed in equals bowed out.  Not to mention that moisture changes in boards from mill to lumber yard to workshop to home cause them to keep moving in undesirable ways.

Now I primarily buy kiln dried rough stock (maybe skip planed so I get a hint of the figure) and follow traditional (machine tool) techniques to turn it into lumber.  Joint one face, joint one edge, plane the other face parallel to thickness, and rip a parallel edge on the table saw.  Most if not all of this can be done with hand tools.  (Not my preference but to each his own.)  In either case, you have to take time to understand what is wrong with the board to begin with in order to use the proper jointing technique to get it flat.

I had a 8" Powermatic helical head jointer and a 13" portable planer for many years.  That's a reasonable setup for most small shops.  I now have a 300mm Minimax combo J/P and would not go back.  I really like the flexibility and quality provided by the Tersa knives.  It also takes up less overall room in my small shop.

This is all my opinion based on my experiences.  Others may recommend differently and that's okay.  Lots of ways to get things done in woodworking.
Member Projects / Re: jig saw table
« Last post by ScotF on Yesterday at 11:40 PM »
Very clever idea, Howard!! Thanks for posting and the pics.

The cheese board looks awesome, by the way...
Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Domino XL minified
« Last post by Just Bill on Yesterday at 11:23 PM »
As someone mentioned above, check with your friend on how payment was made. If with a credit card, I would dispute the charge immediately. The CC company will do an investigation and your friend can explain the entire story which makes sense why it wasn't reported earlier. I have found that most credit card companies, (particularly) American Express, will bend over backwards to help you resolve with the seller.
Member Projects / jig saw table
« Last post by HowardH on Yesterday at 10:44 PM »
I no longer own a bandsaw, the car has to go into the garage at night so something had to go, but I still need to cut curves on occasion.  I recently got a P1cc (a beast) and would hang the material I was cutting over the edge of the MFT which simply isn't all that efficient.  I came up with this solution and thought I would share it so if anyone has some ideas for improvement, I'm all ears. 

I took some MDF, made two separate boxes about 12" x 14"and drilled some MFT style 20mm holes for clamping purposes.  They are tall enough so at the furthest extension the blade won't hit the table.  I can place the workpiece between the two tables to give the workpiece support on both sides. 

I didn't want the two tables to be independent of each other so I cut a couple of long strips, drilled 1/2" holes about 8" apart and then used the CMS router table to rout a slot between them.  I then drilled 5/16" holes in the boxes and inserted 2.5" bolts through the boxes and through the slot and secured them with thumb knobs so when they are loose, I can spread the two platforms as far apart as I need and when I'm done, I can slide them together, tighten the knobs and hang the entire thing up as single unit.  It seems to work pretty well but I discovered I need to able to clamp the unit down to the MFT or it will slide around. I'll add some clamping blocks to accomplish this.   

Anyway, it seems to be a workable solution for those of us who don't own bandsaws and want the workpiece as fully supported as possible.  BTW, obviously this is for smaller parts.  i am building a number of cheese boards with lots of curves. 

General Friendly Chat / Re: Why the big tool sell off?
« Last post by jobsworth on Yesterday at 10:39 PM »
Everytime Festool comes out with new models such as their CT people have to have the latest and greatest.

Some times people will buy a tool use it for a job then sell it.

Others will buy a tool find it doesnt meet their expectations and sell it.

Im considering selling somethings. Im waiting to have enough to put in the classifieds. Just want to up grade change somethings get rid of somethings.
Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Next Step: Jointer and Planer Question
« Last post by jobsworth on Yesterday at 10:32 PM »

coople of ways to go on te jointer. You can buy yer timber s4s which you dont really eed a jointer or S2S straight lined ripped which will give on edge sort of jointed well good enough to run through a saw.

That will hold ya till you can get a jointer.
Ask Festool / Re: centrotec quick release holder for ball detent bits
« Last post by SRSemenza on Yesterday at 09:32 PM »
Thanks Seth

Wasn't there another that was for ball detent? I had one that was Festool that I thought was for ball detent,... someone liked it more than me. Or was it just a BHS 65 that had been playing nice?

I know that the BHS 65 I have now is garbage for even wire detent

   Yes, there was a ball detent holder. I don't know the number for sure maybe it's the 65. But at this point I don't care because the Rapidapter is just waaaaay better than any other I have used (I have a Wera one). 

Festool Tools & Accessories / Re: Need a battery measurement
« Last post by SRSemenza on Yesterday at 09:28 PM »
The bumper doesn't come off does it? 3.17 inches.

(Attachment Link)

  The bumper probably doesn't come off by the looks of it. I just know that one is sold separately so I thought it might.

   Thanks for the measurement.

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