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So I just buy a gallon of the pro classic and that's all I need? Couple of coats with sanding in between? No primer or top coats?
I see no discrepancy like Untidy Shop describes.
However, for quite some time I have noticed that the NOTIFY function is sporadic even though I check every notification.

Member Projects / Re: H&K Custom Barn Doors
« Last post by TXFIVEO on Today at 10:09 AM »
Yeah, looks like there is a cap on posting pictures
Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Re: Mitered Corners
« Last post by Michael Kellough on Today at 09:53 AM »
Perfect miters can be difficult. Sometimes you need a spline/tenon that is not rigid, like a good old biscuit. On smaller scale assemblies I usually just use tape to keep the joints tight and allow the thin stock to bend a little to accommodate the joint geometry.
Hi All,

Is there anyone here that know how one would obtain -as a non dealer- a simplified database (can be csv, excel, etc.) with Festool product numbers and their description as-well as the photographs that belong to them? Obviously in a legit way.

Other Tools & Accessories / Re: Ordered a Hammer A3 31
« Last post by threesixright on Today at 09:35 AM »
Hi Bob,

Awesome, congrats! One is on my list as-well (the 31). Let us how its going!?

Festool Jigs & Tool Enhancements / Re: Mitered Corners
« Last post by ChuckM on Today at 09:31 AM »
Assumption: all mitres are cut to 45 degrees or very very close.

1) Set and check the fence with the head of a combo square or a triangle for 45 degrees
2) Mortise the joints with the DJ
3) Sand or plane down the thickness of the dominoes to create room for the joint to be forced/clamped to a perfect mitre

This will work only if the mitres are themselves properly cut.
This vanity is Pro Classic water. The picture of the case side is after it was topcoated with KA+ clear.

The doors have not been top coated in the picture.

The reason for the top coat is---it's a vanity. The reason for the PC is that's is the homes trim color and I had 1/2 a gallon left over from the trim painting.

I don't recall thinning the PC (at my age 2015 is a long time ago on the memory....), but I would have shot it using a pot. I do know it was shot with the Fuji (Q4).

I would warm the product before I would thin it 20%.

Festool How To... / Re: Crosscutting Solution
« Last post by tjbnwi on Today at 08:55 AM »
We process all our sheet goods using a cut table with foam, GRS/GRS PE and TPG's.

The arm of the TPG can be set to the height or depth you need.

For example we straight line a long edge, using the TPS 30's in pair with the GRS 16 and GRS 16PE we'll rip 2-23-1/2" pieces out of the sheet (the sheets come 49x97).

Once we rip all the sheets in various sizes for the job we move on to cross cutting.

Two common height for us is 30-3/4 and 34-3/4 (most jobs we do the tops are 3cm, ~1-1/4"). One edge of the rip is squared using a GRS, to get the heights we need the TPS 50 is installed on a GRS.

The only issue is the 54" upper sides, this are cut on an MFT 3 that has the fence bolted in place.

Where I have the fence bolted to the MFT, I can get 24" cross cuts.

We'll process 80-100 sheets a week when first staring a build.

You can also use a GRS PE on the MFT (I have a few MFT's......).

With the TPG and rail lift, whats the max crosscut width u can get on an MFT?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

Not sure, I'll have to measure it.

My preferred is the MFT next to it with the fence bolted to the table. On that one, slightly over 24" of cross cut capacity. It is dead square across 2'.

Festool How To... / Re: Crosscutting Solution
« Last post by DynaGlide on Today at 08:50 AM »
With a little work the MFT/3 table can be setup nicely. I bored some 20mm holes farther back on mine and use a pair of fence dogs attached to my stock fence. 24" crosscut capability and the fence is easily removable and replaceable in the same location with no chance for it to come out of adjustment.

There's times you want the stock fence in place for repeat operations.
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