festool trion jigsaw

[surfmirrors]

Hello there,

I purchased my jigsaw about 4 months ago, i only cut 18mm birch ply with it.
I wonder what recommendations you have for setup with this tool, as i cant cut out one sheet without breaking at least 2 blades.

I am using the clean cut blades (thinnest possible) as i need a clean cut on entry and exit sides.
I broke 5 blades cutting one sheet, so at this rate (and it was 2 1/2 times more expensive than my Bosch jigsaw) i won't be able to afford to run it !!!

Over to you then,

Thanks,

Wayne

[jonny round boy]

Surfmirrors,

Welcome to the forum!

It might help if you could specify the precise make, type and code of the blade that you are suffering these breakages with. I don't have a Trion myself, but my first thought would be that it's a blade problem rather than a powertool problem.

[PaulMarcel]

Also, where is the break happening?  Is it just above the surface of the ply (so at the level of the jigsaw's foot)?  Are you using the splinter guard?  Lastly, when you have the blade in the saw, is there a lot of play side to side (when off, obviously )?  There are adjustments for the blade guides that may not be correctly set for the blades you are using especially if they are noticeably thinner than the regular Festool blades.

[PeterK]

Sounds like you are using the Bosch blades - "clean cut". They make quite a few different blades that will give very clean cuts. Sounds like you may be using the tiny scrolling blade - about 1/8" deep. If you don't need to cut intricate curves, use the thickest or deepest blade that will make the cut you need. I have never had a Bosch blade break cutting wood or plywood. Purchase the Bosch combo blade set or Festool combo blade set and try them out. They do have reverse tooth blades and also double tooth blades to give smooth edges top and bottom. The Festool blades are very high quality as well and offer some great options for deep cuts that will give great results.

[Alex]

Well, sorry to say so, but if you brake 5 blades on one sheet you've either bought a very bad quality blades or you're doing something completely wrong yourself. I think I've perhaps broken 2 or 3 blades in over 20 years. And I'm not the type to treat them nicely. Is it possible the sheet of ply wasn't supported all around? Blades break out of stress and the biggest and perhaps only stress I can imagine for a blade is if it is caught in the wood when the two side of the cut somehow sheer together.

[surfmirrors]

Thanks for the speedy response fella's,

ok then, they are festool blades, all of them. double teeth for clean cuts and tight radius cutting.
i cant use the splinter guard as i need to follow the line EXACTLY, tried the splinter guard, went 3mm away from line, 3hrs work and ?20 worth of wood scrapped.

The blade guide at first gave off sparks when cutting tight curves, backed it off a little, all good there now.

Now one comment, (cant see previous comments from here to credit) about workpiece not being fixed/held firm.
Kind of tricky with an 8 x 4 sheet on tressles but any tips, again welcome.

If you want an idea as to what i am doing, take a look at www.bourne-craft.com

Thanks again chaps..

[surfmirrors]

just re-read the comments,

blades are breaking mostly near the top of the row of teeth, but today one 1/4in from bottom

[surfmirrors]

peterk, i used bosch and anyother make in my bosch jigsaw, but have only used festool with the trion

[surfmirrors]

Alex, wow so few blades in so long a time !

Remember i am cutting 100% birch 18mm thick  too, some real tight radius also.

Thanks..

[Tom Bellemare]

Your products look pretty cool.

Are you using the agressive, pendulous mode or the vertical mode?

For scrolling and other fine work, I eliminate the pendulum action.


Tom

[surfmirrors]

Sorry Tom, baby keeps banging the laptop !!!

Ok, let me know what you think i should do pendulum wise, for straight cuts, and then into tight curves ?

Thank you,

Wayne

[Forrest Anderson]

ok then, they are festool blades, all of them. double teeth for clean cuts and tight radius cutting.

Can you supply the part number so that we see the blade you are using? There's a chart at http://www.festoolusa.com/supplyimages/JigsawBladeCompChart.pdf to help you identify the blade.

And what speed have you got the saw set to?

Forrest

[Tom Bellemare]

Wayne:

The green control on the left-front is what Festool calls the "pendulum stroke switch". If you set the pendulum control to zero (all the way back), The blade travels straight up and down. That's the only way I would use it to scroll and with a scrolling blade, you can turn on a dime or more like a BB.

There's a FAQ on the Festool USA site about using that control optimally.

I'm guessing that's why your blades are breaking but perhaps it's something else.


Tom

[Festool USA]

I noticed that you mentioned that you were getting sparks when you first used the blade.  Brian and I shot a quick video that shows the proper process for setting the carbide jaws on the Trion jigsaw.  Here's a quick overview to go with the video.

- Unplug the power from the jigsaw, always follow the safety instructions in your product's manual
- Insert the jigsaw blade using the FastFix mechanism
- While holding the blade, carefully pull down on the blade to bring it to the lowest point in the pendulum action
- Move the pendulum setting to its #3 setting which is closest to the front of the saw
- Remove the wrench from the rear of the jigsaw base plate
- Using the wrench, tighten the hex nut in a clockwise direction until it is fully tightened against the blade
- While pushing gently against the blade with your thumb, use the wrench in a counter-clockwise direction to loosen the hex nut until the blade slips free from the carbide jaws

This will give set tension on the jaws which will minimize deflection and also minimize wear on the blade.

[Brice Burrell]

Shane and Brian thanks so much for putting together this video.  I know you can't make a video every time someone has a problem, but if you could make some videos that covers some of the most common problems that wold be greatly appreciated.

[Festool USA]

Thanks, Brice.  Hang in there.  Videos are in the works. 

[Brice Burrell]

Thanks, Brice.  Hang in there.  Videos are in the works. 

 

[Alex]

Great to see a video like this. I remember a while back there was a thread on here about training and a lot of people mentioned videos on YouTube.

Well, I think this one is exactly what people were talking about. We don't need big tutorials on how to build a cabinet with a Festool, just these little vids explaining these nifty little features of the tools. You don't know the tool nor do you get the best out of it until you've adjusted every little knob and screw on it to fit your own needs.

Surfmirrors, I'm sorry if I put this a bit too quick on user error. Seems these carbide jaws might have been the problem. I didn't know they were there and I fully blame my lack of knowledge on Shane for not posting this video earlier and on Festool for making the thing too darn pricey for me to buy   . After all, I already bought 5 Festools in 1 year and I'm just a no good guy with no proper job or source of income   , so the Trion is still out of my reach. I see all these subjects about all the tools come by here every day and I'd love to talk along and pretend to know something but unfortunately, this is not always the case. Again I blame Festool, because if these tools where 25 bucks each, I'd be able to offer the world an incredible wealth of knowledge about them.  . In other news, I live a lot in my own fantasy world too. 

[surfmirrors]

ok guys i will get the code numbers/blade model when in my workshop tomoz.

thanks for the speedy responses thus far tho'

i have been using it with the pendulum at the 0 setting mostly, forward 1 notch to 'experiment' a little.
dont call me stupid guys, do i assume that complete forward setting (3) is for straight cuts then ? setting 2 ? setting 1?

thanks once again..

[surfmirrors]

Shane,

I will check the vid tomoz, as footy has started on tv here, (soccer over there)

[Tom Bellemare]

The method that Shane and Brian are showing is one way to adjust the guides. The opposite way is more foolproof...

Do everything the same except where Brian tightens the guides on the blades with the blade back try this:

• Push the blade all the way forward.
• Tighten the guides until the blade is stuck in the forward position.
• Loosen the guides until the blade just moves backward.

It's the same principle but requires less finesse and no finger tension on the blade at all.


Tom

[jonny round boy]

Surf,

As I said earlier, I don't own a Trion. But, if the pendulum action on a Festool is the same as on any other jigsaw, then basically it allows for quicker cutting, at the expense of the quality of the cut. So, if you're doing fine, intricate work and want nice clean edges, then set it on 0. If you're cutting up scraps so that they'll fit in the bin better, put it on 3.

1 and 2 are somewhere in between.

[fshanno]

Are you sure you want to cut those pieces out with a jigsaw?  Find someone with a CNC.  I don't think it's cheating if all you do is replace the jigsaw work.  Sounds like you could pay for someone to cut it with the savings in blades.

[Julian Tracy]

That is one reason why I sold my Trion and picked up the new Bosch jigsaw.

The blade thickness adjustment is automatic - a lot speedier if you are changing blade types often.

Yes - the Trion had better dust collection, but with the shroud attached, you could barely see the cutline all that well, so that negates the value of the dust collection.

Nice stuff!

JT

[surfmirrors]

Ok Guys,

Sorry for late response, been away for 4 days.

Ok, product code for Festool blades i have been using S 50/1,4 K   (T 101 AO)

Some great points made earlier, havent seen the vid yet, will check it tomoz.

JT, i am not changing the blades as i need a super clean cut on the bottom too as i dont want to start sanding the reverse side too.
I am surprised to hear someone got a Bosch instead of a Festool, i would imagine the more expensive machine being superior (not slagging Bosch, just assuming you get what you pay for ? i am from a sheet metal background, so woodworking tools are fairly new to me at this level.

fshanno, as for a cnc router to do my work, well i want all my work to be handcrafted, and i got a quote from a guy with a cnc router to do some simple blanks, no intricate work at all, soooo expensive i would of had to triple my price to make any dosh !!
Also i dont shift large numbers at all, and each one is different too.
I can start and finish ANY of my work so far in 1 day now.

Tom, i will check the vid, and then try your blade setup suggestion, i understand where your coming from.

Festool got back to me, possibility of a service engineer to come out to me when on his/her rounds maybe ??

Thanks again fella's so far.

[Forrest Anderson]

Ok, product code for Festool blades i have been using S 50/1,4 K   (T 101 AO)

Designed for scrolling and tight curves, this is probably the most delicate and easily-broken of the Festool selection of blades. I see that the brochure states "Work without orbiting action".





In other words, for this blade the pendulum action on this jigsaw should always be set to the rear-most position, marked "0". The following photo shows the rear-most "0" position clearly, because the lever is moved fully forward to the "3" position. You need to make sure that the green lever covers the "0".





So that people don't start worrying, can you confirm that you've always used the saw with the pendulum lever in the "0" position with that blade?

I am surprised to hear someone got a Bosch instead of a Festool,

The Bosch 1590EVS/1591EVS jigsaw with its "Precision Control System" for supporting the blade, is generally very highly regarded, and many members here prefer it to the Festool Trion.

However my own experience with the UK equivalent (the Bosch GST135) was bad, with vibration, ineffective soft-start, and damaged blades. I returned the machine, and since the Trion was too expensive for me at that time, I got the DeWalt DW331, with which I am very happy.

See I Need a Jigsaw (Pendulum Saw) and Jigsaw purchase -- please push me over the edge!! for just two threads on this much-discussed subject.

Forrest

[Charimon]

Forrest
thanks for the link to the blade guide  I like the fact that it has a column that references the Bosch blade reference #.
Craig

[surfmirrors]

Hi Guys,

Shane i watched the video just now, gonna set up my carbide guide tomoz.
Forrest, i can't say for sure what my pendulum settings where in the past, i think a bit of them all as i was sooo frustrated i tried em all !!!

Anyway, as i have taken on-board all the comments, i haven't broke a blade this week , hooray.

Anyboby else out there who would love a jigsaw that had it's blade right out front so you didn't have to crane your neck to follow the blade/pencil line ??
And has anyone else got a missus at home who thinks you are an anorak surfing 'tool sites' ?
Bless her, she thought i was surfing porn all the time !!

[surfmirrors]

Boo !

Broke another blade today, 12mm ply, pendulum at 0, straight cut...

[Festool USA]

Have you contacted Festool UK to see if they can offer assistance or advice?  They are in a far better position to help troubleshoot and diagnose the cause of the blade breaks.