Author Topic: preventing Kickback TS 55  (Read 5652 times)

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Offline Mrs C

  • Posts: 17
preventing Kickback TS 55
« on: November 05, 2015, 02:19 AM »
Help!  I am struggling with kickback ripping hardwood when using a saw blade with fewer teeth (18).  I don't have any problems with the fine blade that came with the saw (except that I get burn marks and it finds it hard work, hence the change in blade)

What am I doing wrong? I have turned the speed down, is that my problem?

Thanks

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Offline Bohdan

  • Posts: 991
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #1 on: November 05, 2015, 02:29 AM »
You will have to supply more information.

Describe exactly how you cut and what is happening.

Offline #Tee

  • Posts: 786
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #2 on: November 05, 2015, 02:36 AM »
full speed 6
When youre feeling depressed just treat yourself to a systainer even if its a mini systainer its ok.

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Offline Wuffles

  • Posts: 1313
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #3 on: November 05, 2015, 04:14 AM »
Make sure you have enough rail on the "starting side" to approach the wood rather than try and drop into it. Hope that makes sense.

You could also invest in a kickback stop 491582.
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Offline charley1968

  • Posts: 491
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #4 on: November 05, 2015, 04:36 AM »
Are you left-handed?
Just for today..

Offline ear3

  • Posts: 4183
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #5 on: November 05, 2015, 08:52 AM »
Not sure exactly what the issue might be without more specific info, but one possibility: sometimes when ripping a thick piece of wood, you may think you have left yourself enough clearance at the front of the cut/rail, but the blade plunges so far down that you actually bite into the wood at the start of the plunge, which will definitely cause kickback.  So make sure you leave plenty of clearance at the start of the cut, and do a test plunge without starting the motor to make sure the blade can get up to speed at full depth of plunge.
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Offline Untidy Shop

  • Posts: 2745
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2015, 09:35 AM »
Particularly with the ripping/Panther blade,  ensure the saw blade has reached the set full speed before you plunge. As suggested by Bohdan, reset speed at 6. Also you could purchase a stop attachment to insert in the rail.

http://www.festool.com.au/epages/tooltechnic.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/tooltechnic/Products/491582

Affixing to the rib, or guide on top of the Festool FS Guide Rail, the Limit Stop can be used to provide secure stop points for repetitive cutting and for routing with most Festool routers. With a seamless fit to the rear of the TS plunge cut saw's sole plate, the Limit Stop also helps reduce the risk of kickbacks for plunge cut starts.



@Mrs C @Bohdan
« Last Edit: November 05, 2015, 09:47 AM by Untidy Shop »
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Offline Peter Parfitt

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Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2015, 10:10 AM »
I am pretty sure that you are more likely to get kickback when the cutting part of the saw blade is closer to parallel with the stock as it starts to make contact as the force is then almost horizontal. When the blade is coming into contact with the stock at a greater angle the horizontal component of the force is much lower.

Part of the clue is in one of the posts above about having enough of the rail at the start to allow the saw to be fully seated on the rail and fully plunged before the actual cutting starts.

This is why plunging cuts can be tricky and the use of the anti kickback stop is important.

Peter

Offline Mrs C

  • Posts: 17
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2015, 01:34 PM »
I have a kickback stop - the whole lot moved!   Yes, I am left handed. 

Sounds like the distance before the cut starts is my problem, as well as perhaps the speed.

Next dim question -  (but I would rather ask dim questions than lose fingers that I cant replace  [unsure])  If you plunge the saw well in advance of where the cut starts, is there enough weight on the track to stop the whole thing moving? At what point do I need to start clamping stuff down?  I have got a stop at the end of the piece that I am cutting to stop it moving forward and a piece to the left and to the rear to support the track.

Many thanks

P.S. The TS55 is a fab piece of kit - it has already paid for itself in converting bits of wood into nice things that would have cost a small fortune to buy!

Offline ear3

  • Posts: 4183
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #9 on: November 05, 2015, 01:48 PM »
Yeah, it depends.  On stuff less than 1", usually you can start the saw with enough of the base on the workpiece such that movement is not an issue.  There is a suprising amount of friction hold created by the weight of the saw pressing the rubber strips onto the workpiece surface.  Once you get higher up in thickness, though, I think clamping is wise.  I tend to clamp more often than not for all thicknesses just to be safe. 

Another solution is to tuck a scrap piece of equal thickness under the front of the rail so that it will not flex.

I have a kickback stop - the whole lot moved!   Yes, I am left handed. 

Sounds like the distance before the cut starts is my problem, as well as perhaps the speed.

Next dim question -  (but I would rather ask dim questions than lose fingers that I cant replace  [unsure])  If you plunge the saw well in advance of where the cut starts, is there enough weight on the track to stop the whole thing moving? At what point do I need to start clamping stuff down?  I have got a stop at the end of the piece that I am cutting to stop it moving forward and a piece to the left and to the rear to support the track.

Many thanks

P.S. The TS55 is a fab piece of kit - it has already paid for itself in converting bits of wood into nice things that would have cost a small fortune to buy!
Kapex KS 120 w/UG Cart and Extensions • CXS Set • T 18+3 w/Centrotec Installer's Set • PDC 18/4 • TID 18 • TS 75 • TSC 55 • HKC 55 w/250, 420 and 670 FSK rails • Carvex 420 w/Accessory Kit • Domino 500 Set • Domino 700 XL • OF 2200 w/Base Accessory Kit • OF 1400 • OF 1010 • MFK 700 EQ Set • LR 32 • MFS 400 w/2000, 1000, and 700 extensions • Rotex 90 • Rotex 150 • LS 130 • ETS-EC 150/5 • ETS-EC 150/3 • Pro 5 LTD • RTS 400 • RAS 115.04 • RS 2 • HL 850 • Vecturo OS 400 • AGC 18-115 • CT 26 w/BT module • CT Sys w/Long-Life Bag • MFT/3 • STM 1800

Offline charley1968

  • Posts: 491
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #10 on: November 05, 2015, 01:59 PM »
I'm left-handed myself and on occasion been pressing the blade towards the rail instead along it.
Might be a contributing factor..
Good luck!
Just for today..

Online jobsworth

  • Posts: 6461
  • Festool Baby.....
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #11 on: November 06, 2015, 05:42 PM »
Im a leftie and never had a problem

Offline CrazyLarry

  • Posts: 276
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #12 on: November 06, 2015, 06:52 PM »
Im a leftie and never had a problem

This is all very sinister!!!

Offline Holmz

  • Posts: 4010
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #13 on: November 06, 2015, 06:53 PM »
I have a kickback stop - the whole lot moved!   Yes, I am left handed. 

Sounds like the distance before the cut starts is my problem, as well as perhaps the speed.

Next dim question -  (but I would rather ask dim questions than lose fingers that I cant replace  [unsure])  If you plunge the saw well in advance of where the cut starts, is there enough weight on the track to stop the whole thing moving? At what point do I need to start clamping stuff down?  I have got a stop at the end of the piece that I am cutting to stop it moving forward and a piece to the left and to the rear to support the track.

Many thanks

P.S. The TS55 is a fab piece of kit - it has already paid for itself in converting bits of wood into nice things that would have cost a small fortune to buy!

I clamp almost all the time.

Now "plunging well in advance"... perplexes me.

The saw blade is like a car wheel going in reverse...
if you are headed forward and the wheels are spinning backwards (like in a cartoon), then saw is pretty much trying to squat onto the wood (or snow or mud) as the upwards motion of the blade is sucking the saw's chassis down.

If the same wheels are spinning in reverse and you try to be move in reverse then it is trying to climb on up and out and onto the top.

If we were driving cars we wan to stay on top of the snow and mud.
For a saw, you generally want to head forwards.

For saws and routers they call this a climb cut, because it is climbing.
On a table saw it looks like a spear launcher.

Offline glass1

  • Posts: 552
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #14 on: November 06, 2015, 07:17 PM »
Sell it. Save money. Buy the the makita. For some reason I get less kick with the mak.

Online jobsworth

  • Posts: 6461
  • Festool Baby.....
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #15 on: November 07, 2015, 04:49 AM »
Im a leftie and never had a problem

This is all very sinister!!!

 know huh? Something like a cheap monster flick you'd see on a indedepenant tv channel at 1am on  a Sat nite

Offline CrazyLarry

  • Posts: 276
Re: preventing Kickback TS 55
« Reply #16 on: November 07, 2015, 07:18 AM »
Im a leftie and never had a problem

This is all very sinister!!!

 know huh? Something like a cheap monster flick you'd see on a indedepenant tv channel at 1am on  a Sat nite

google sinister :)