Home made MFT table with extras

[sicd_steve]

Hey I am new here from Australia my name is Steve and I am a Festool Fan Boy and primarily I am a self employed pub designer for my real job. But I love designing and making things in wood especially after finding Festool tools. They are the best tools ever, I used to have a garage full of Blue Bosch and Makita which all sit in cupboards gathering dust.

Anyway I got to thinking I needed a bigger than standard MFT 3 style of work bench, but the Festool one is too small too low and not very sturdy for my workshop and doesn't have the space under well planned.
 I know it was designed for the contractor... but anyways lets get on to what I did.

My table is very inexpensive made from 140 x 19mm pine with mitered domino-ed corners but the design has made it very strong, I have it at 970mm high ( I am 6') so I like the higher top, it measures 1200 x 900 and I have MFT 3 V profile rails all round it worked perfect as the rails come in 2m lengths and I have a alumin blade in my Kapex 120 so cutting was easy. The profile has 2 standard T slots at the back of which 5/16" Hex head bolts work perfect to attached to pine edges ( see pic), it is on lockable HD castors to move around the shop easy, I had a 1200 x 900 x 18mm MDF top CNC routed by a real friendly guy here in Australia called ARTS & CRAFTS CNC ROUTING and he specialises in one offs ( nice service ) I had 2 done with 96mm hole centres and perfect 20mm holes all perfect and square for $80 each and that's cheap the small genuine FESTOOL ones are $160 each here in OZ. So now I added a lower shelf to house a 10" and 8" sliding Bosch mitre saws and a bunch of other stuff, I also made a solid mid shelf to collect dust and allows me to add a few low profile systainers. On the end I have made a clamp rack for Festool MFT clamps and I have made an adjustable support that holds your work piece instead of relying just on the side rail clamps and this can be adjusted accordingly. I used some old EUREKA ZONE alumin profiles I had hanging around.

Now the best part is I have already 2 /1400mm TS55 rails and the mitre gauge from my CS70 saw which is the same as the MFT# one, all I did was to get some spare parts to make up the swing up TS55 rail system with a 1400mm rail not the 1000mm rail Festool has on their system. So I can cut much wider boards add. and its a beauty...well it's a bit ugly but what the heck it all works perfect.

Here a are a few basic pics I took for anyone top get ideas, love to hear any comments to better it further...bring em on!!!

Also like to thank Anthony at Ideal Tools in Australia for helping me get the bits and pieces Anthony is a Festool Reseller and can be found at www.idealtools.com.au

[Peter Halle]

Steve,  Welcome to the FOG!  Very interesting project!

Peter

[Alan m]

welcome to the fog steve..
great bench
i like the adjustable shelf idea

[builderbob]

Nice job on the table Steve!  I did a similar idea with the clamps based off of another fog members design and it's really nice to have them close at all times!

The only issue I've run into having items stored on an open shelf below my MFT is that the items get fairly dirty quickly. I do most of my assemblies, cutting, routing, drilling, you name it on my MFT's. perhaps if all your leg corner brackets are the same height, you could rest a piece of material on those and save some cleaning!  Just a thought based on my own experiences!

Enjoy!

Bob

[sicd_steve]

Hey thanks for the welcome guys, ....hey Bob you are right thats why I did the shelf to collect the dust and still have enough space for the clamps to fit through so in reality I will be taking the systainers etc out of  area as you said the idea of the idea if this is to catch the dust, I think I will build some drawers under the top shelf to fit the systainers, but I built this in a rush in between jobs. The last one I made up had junk ever where on the things under the bench so hence the shelf....but to have a clean shop you have to keep vacuuming regularly well at least I like to and the shelf makes that easier, I am also going to put a lip around the back and 2 sides to help collect the dust.

[builderbob]

I totally missed the shelf in the first picture!  I must've thought the systainers were levitating!

Good call & really nice job!!!

Bob

[Alan W]

That thing is great!

I always thought the MFT looked a bit small for my uses, hadn't known you could get the edge rails and update the bench I made for myself. Thanks!

[sicd_steve]

That thing is great!

I always thought the MFT looked a bit small for my uses, hadn't known you could get the edge rails and update the bench I made for myself. Thanks!

No worries mate...I believe you can buy any seperate part for any Festool as for the rails I bought them from my supplier at his suggestion and as I said they are exactly 2m long and you get 2 rails in Australia for $331 and they are darn heavy really great quality...no beer can aluminium, here

[indonesiafoto]

thanks for the storage ide for festool clamp, i will try to used it for my cms table!
Nice table!

[sicd_steve]

Hey no worries...... I drilled a 12mm hole in 19mm pine and its a a firmish fit which is good as you don't want them rattling about when you use the table and the fact that the clamps
are slightly wider they are now creating a groove in the hole width which makes them easier...sort of like new leather shoes are a bit tight at first then they wear just nice, so goes with this.

I have had a friend make me some real nice steel bench dogs which first perfect with no fraction of a wobble you can almost feel the vacuum as they are pushed in he made them on his metal lathe and I left him a table top so he made em perfect, I am gonna make a some side holes to keep them in ready at hand, also because the legs are wide I am also going to use this to house my Festtol MFT horizontal clamps.

I like having everything ready to go next to me.

Happy Drilling my friend

[Kev]

Welcome brother fOztool fan 

[sicd_steve]

G'Day mate

[gms002]

Steve

Very smart.

Where did you get the Eurekazone profiles from?

George

[sicd_steve]

Hi George, thanks for your comments, you can get the aluminium tracking from  :


http://www.eurekazone.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SME

It is part of a woodworking system from a guy called Dino : The track that used is $10 US a foot and it's really strong stuff

The have  heaps of aluminium extrusions that woodworkers would use, take the time to check out all the things on his website. I originally bought his stuff for the saw track systems and table extrusions etc
but I ended up buying Festool later on and I have used all the stufff I bought form hi in other ways. In fact just this weekend I made a new Kapex saw side fences from the old track saw profiles I will upload that
this week and it works a treat, so it's all about recycling and the track he sells are very robust and has a variety of connection bars. To make my side rails I did cut the aluminium profile a bit so it worked better with the Festool railing. I can send more pics if that helps.

[TinyTiger]

Welcome to the group Steve!  Really great project and great execution.  I want to build my own too, and this gives me some good ideas for it.  Thanks!

[sicd_steve]

Hi Tiny Tiger,

I have to say it works perfect as I have been doing stuff all morning, my saw track set up is always dead accurate every time, its sturdy and doesn't wobble it was cheap to make, it's on lockable castors and the side adustable shelf unit works perfect for when....I was just fitting some cupboard door handles that are routed from the top of the door in a shallow rebate, And the side beam holds the doors level and takes the weight while you lock in the clamps on the side.  Makes it a delight to work with and its a bigger size than the Festool one, I bought some small Rockler track clamps for cheap and they work perfect.

I am going to add some drawers under next week as you can never have enough drawers and in a couple of weeks I am going to make another one, also I have some Festool crown stop unit from my Kapex saw I replaced those with the Sawhelper ones so I can add my Kapex wings. The crown stop units now are as extra table space on my MFT Homemadey to take a saw or sander on a tray or just about any use you like
I will [post a pic soon

[TinyTiger]

Excellent!  I'm looking forward to seeing it.

[Joel Harry]

Steve. I'm looking to make a similar table and trying to figure out which Festool parts I need to set up my TS55 and 1400 rail on the table. In other words, I want to get 2 MFT rails and the guide supports/stops. I plan to order through the EKAT site. Could you tell me which parts I need or send me some pics? I've seen a lot of pics of the MFT and watched too many review videos but they never zoom in on those parts. Also, the EKAT diagrams aren't great quality. One last question. Will the 1400 TS guide work? I know it's a bit long for a ~30" wide table, but I don't want to buy another guide. Might as well buy a whole MFT table if I have to do that. Thanks for any help!

[Joel Harry]

I admit, didn't read your original post all the way through before posting.  Sorry! So after reading it all now, I think what I'm planning is exactly what you have, especially with the 1400 guide. Any suggestions on the part list would be greatly appreciated!

[Locky]

Welcome Steve, that is one nice looking MFT I'm sure a lot of people here may soon have one like yours. Thanks for posting your idea

[sicd_steve]

I admit, didn't read your original post all the way through before posting.  Sorry! So after reading it all now, I think what I'm planning is exactly what you have, especially with the 1400 guide. Any suggestions on the part list would be greatly appreciated!

Yes mine is made from a 1400mm saw track and works perfect.

[Joel Harry]

Thanks Steve. Could you tell me what parts of the MFT you got to use with the 1400? I read the part about the 2m rails. Cheers!

[sicd_steve]

Thanks Steve. Could you tell me what parts of the MFT you got to use with the 1400? I read the part about the 2m rails. Cheers!

.

I HOPE YOU SITTING DOWN!!!  ......to buy the MFT3 Table setup with all the bells and whistles in the States is $625...man here in Australia it's $1,175 twice the price for the same item, so they sting us here and don't let me hear you guys from the States moan about Festool prices, those prices are double here.

This is why I made my own MFT and all up it still cost me $720 in parts and I already had the MITRE GUAGE and a spare 1400 rail, but for me I have a top that is 1200 x 900 and it stands 950High as I am tall. My table also comes on wheels and is very sturdy, so custom made was what I was after. For me it was customised at whatever the cost. But for you man I would just go and buy one and throw the legs away its probably cheaper than to build one.

The parts from EKAT USA  if you still want are as follows:

437377 - Feather Key ( need 2 ) Item #4 - @ $2.90 each ( this is the support stop inside the profile rail for alignment )
497022 - Support Unit Item ( Need only 1 ) #77 - @ $36.15 (this receives the rail as it swings down to level position )
497023 - Support Unit. Item ( Need only 1 ) #84 - @ $58.63 (this swings the saw rail off the profile rail )
474036 - Holding Plate Item ( suggest 2 ) #74 - @ $ 3.34 each ( I add extra's in the Supports as they grab the profile rail better the support currently has only one but you can easily replace the bolt and use this )
495541 - Additional Clamp  ( Need 1 ) #85 @ $ 62 AUD( this holds the stop profile rail at the side to prevent the rail moving back it locks in the side rail)
475217 - Stop Rail ( Need 1 ) #60 @ $28.07 ( This rail is what you fix to the mitre to act as the fence )
495542- Adjustable stop ( Need 1 or more ) #86 ( this is the length slip stop that fits on the Stop rail for repeat length cutting )

488451 - Complete Mitre Guage ( Need 1 ) this  is for the CS70 table saw but it is exactly the same as the MFT version and can be purchased as a unit $199 AUD
496824 - Table Profile Rails - ( 2 x 2m lengths ) this is the MFT railing and is $331 AUD

Plus a 1400mm saw rail.

The prices i showed are from internet sourcing and you may get the AUD price items for a lot less expensive but i couldn't find their prices in the states.


But that all said I am about to make a second table to match the one I made so I can join them to make better work spaces but I only have to add the side profiles
as I already have the other gear now. I did buy some joiner bars to lock them together that for the side rails.


I hope that all helps.


Cheers

From the Land Down Under

[Joel Harry]

Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a bunch! Probably won't spring for a miter gauge, to begin with at least. I've seen a lot of vids showing how the dog holes can make the table quite functional without the gauge. How often do you use yours?

[Michael Kellough]

Here is another extra...




Lee Valley has this 1/2" X 20 mm bushing for $6.50. Could be very handy.

[Slappy]

Wow , Just what I was looking for a Ho'made MTF  , I also need a larger table  BUt I think I'm gonna make mine jus as a table top  & then do  a set of  sturdy legs & frame  that I can swap out table tops  for a  cutting top , a MTF top ,  a plain  assembly & glue up top , then a thin paint up top .
 If you don't mind me shooting questions your way  , that list of parts you posted above Really helps me in planning out what I need

 A Big ThanX

Mike

[Joel Harry]

I plan to make my table with a torsion box type design and top it with a larger MFT top (so I can swap MFT top when needed without it being integral to the torsion box). This will create a total top thickness of 1.5" (1/2" ply+3/4" MDF). Anyone have thoughts on the dog hole depths? I've heard anything thicker than 3/4" won't work with the Festool clamps. Is that true and why? Thanks

[sicd_steve]

I plan to make my table with a torsion box type design and top it with a larger MFT top (so I can swap MFT top when needed without it being integral to the torsion box). This will create a total top thickness of 1.5" (1/2" ply+3/4" MDF). Anyone have thoughts on the dog hole depths? I've heard anything thicker than 3/4" won't work with the Festool clamps. Is that true and why? Thanks

The trouble is the Festool clamps can't hook down in the hole as the extra thickness prevents the 90° from scooping down, but it has no problem with the 19mm board

[sicd_steve]

Here is another extra...




Lee Valley has this 1/2" X 20 mm bushing for $6.50. Could be very handy.

thanks for the link on that one

[sicd_steve]

I plan to make my table with a torsion box type design and top it with a larger MFT top (so I can swap MFT top when needed without it being integral to the torsion box). This will create a total top thickness of 1.5" (1/2" ply+3/4" MDF). Anyone have thoughts on the dog hole depths? I've heard anything thicker than 3/4" won't work with the Festool clamps. Is that true and why? Thanks

[sicd_steve]

I plan to make my table with a torsion box type design and top it with a larger MFT top (so I can swap MFT top when needed without it being integral to the torsion box). This will create a total top thickness of 1.5" (1/2" ply+3/4" MDF). Anyone have thoughts on the dog hole depths? I've heard anything thicker than 3/4" won't work with the Festool clamps. Is that true and why? Thanks

That's a good idea to have different tops that can retro fit, therefore you should create a metal thread insert into the legs and use that to screw in different tops, for assembly or so I use some 6mm rubber sheeting cut to size that way things done fall through the holes and protects what ever I am working on. RUBBER is a nice surface to work on I just bought a new piece that's 10 mm thick that was designed to go into ute trays.

[Joel Harry]

Good idea on the rubber mat. I was planning to use some sort of threaded inserts as you said. I'm not sure how they work on the MFT, but I was thinking of having threaded inserts in both the table and MDF top. Maybe I just need one in the top and put a simple through hole in the MDF. Do you know about the thickness "issue"?  Not even sure if ill get any Festool clamps to begin with. Was looking more at kreg or bessey auto clamps. Veritas has a nice dog and clamp accessory pack in a cool systainer that I'm looking at:veritas clamping kit

[sicd_steve]

Good idea on the rubber mat. I was planning to use some sort of threaded inserts as you said. I'm not sure how they work on the MFT, but I was thinking of having threaded inserts in both the table and MDF top. Maybe I just need one in the top and put a simple through hole in the MDF. Do you know about the thickness "issue"?  Not even sure if ill get any Festool clamps to begin with. Was looking more at kreg or bessey auto clamps. Veritas has a nice dog and clamp accessory pack in a cool systainer that I'm looking at:veritas clamping kit

Cool Kit...

Good idea on the rubber mat. I was planning to use some sort of threaded inserts as you said. I'm not sure how they work on the MFT, but I was thinking of having threaded inserts in both the table and MDF top. Maybe I just need one in the top and put a simple through hole in the MDF. Do you know about the thickness "issue"?  Not even sure if ill get any Festool clamps to begin with. Was looking more at kreg or bessey auto clamps. Veritas has a nice dog and clamp accessory pack in a cool systainer that I'm looking at:veritas clamping kit

I have about 10 Festool clamps and I always use them in the MFT I also have the Bessey Auto Clamps are they too are very good, Check out the guys at
Seneca Woodworking they have these great Clamp Dog plates for the Bessey:

http://www.senecawoodworking.com/products/clamp-block

They would work fine, the only issue about having the board deeper is that the Festool Clamps can't scoop in the hole, and for me the 3/4" top is perfect
as I use the clamps both from top and underneath for different clamping issue.

As for the top just put the thread sleeve in the bench and holes in the top, I am going to use your idea myself and re do my top which ...mate is only screwed down with wood screws, nothing too rocket science about it. So I am going to take it off and add thread sleeve in the bench screw holes and....
 way to go a jharry endorsed improvement.

Also here is a real cheap way to make some doggy things, I bought some aluminium drawer handles for $3 at the DIY store and guess what they are 20mm diam and fit perfect in the Festool holes and they have a female thread so you can fit of all sorts of things, I use a thin piece of wood to join 2 together to span 2 holes for instance if I want a bench stop say for planing 1/2" stock I just make the joiner plate in 10mm. Anyways here is a picture and also the other dog I had made from a mate who has a metal lathe who made a bunch in steel for me, darn stronger than aluminium and you can use them as yacht anchors too...lol

[avanderhoorn]

The main photos don't seem to be available any more... any chance to get them reposted?

[Mr Heavy]

Here is another extra...
--------8X---------<snip>-----------X8-----------
Lee Valley has this 1/2" X 20 mm bushing for $6.50.[/url] Could be very handy.

I love this - much neater than my block with a 20mm dowel idea. Need to find a UK stockist of an appropriate bush now.

[myer84]

Also here is a real cheap way to make some doggy things, I bought some aluminium drawer handles for $3 at the DIY store and guess what they are 20mm diam and fit perfect in the Festool holes and they have a female thread so you can fit of all sorts of things, I use a thin piece of wood to join 2 together to span 2 holes for instance if I want a bench stop say for planing 1/2" stock I just make the joiner plate in 10mm. Anyways here is a picture and also the other dog I had made from a mate who has a metal lathe who made a bunch in steel for me, darn stronger than aluminium and you can use them as yacht anchors too...lol

I'm curious about these door handles and wanted to know if you can share the link of the site or place you bought them from. I Googled these knobs and my search shows them for $8. If I can grab them for $3 a piece, it would be nice....

[squarecut]

I'm curious about these door handles and wanted to know if you can share the link of the site or place you bought them from. I Googled these knobs and my search shows them for $8. If I can grab them for $3 a piece, it would be nice....
[/quote]

If you do a Google search for "Aluminum 20 mm Whistle Knob" you will get numerous hits, however most are confusing as they state diameter as 20mm , 3/4", 7/8" in same description - how to know if you are getting 20mm before ordering? Pricing is anywhere from $1.80 to +$4.00. All are the same brand - Liberty Hardware MFG #PN2814C-AL-C

[myer84]

I'm curious about these door handles and wanted to know if you can share the link of the site or place you bought them from. I Googled these knobs and my search shows them for $8. If I can grab them for $3 a piece, it would be nice....

If you do a Google search for "Aluminum 20 mm Whistle Knob" you will get numerous hits, however most are confusing as they state diameter as 20mm , 3/4", 7/8" in same description - how to know if you are getting 20mm before ordering? Pricing is anywhere from $1.80 to +$4.00. All are the same brand - Liberty Hardware MFG #PN2814C-AL-C
[/quote]

Thank you. I found for $1.79

[mvafog]

How do you open the photos??

Mark

[RustE]

The photos appear to have been lost in a forum change-over or deleted by the uploader.

[kitui]

The knobs are not square. I think it is important for accuracy that they are square. I am not talking about the screw hole squareness but the body of the knob itself. I checked with a square and they were off of at least 1/16 over a 1". Way too much. I was a great idea which I went for. After a few cut that did not square I figure out what was wrong. It is sad because they were perfect for what I needed.
I am still looking for rod like that because I need to align two surface with 20mm holes. One surface is a jig and the other is the MFT. I could not find any rod that has 20mm diameter in US. Only available in Uk

[neilc]

 A few alternatives -


Do you have access to a lathe to turn the knobs square?


OR


If you have a 20mm bit you could drill a hole in a piece of wood and insert the knob into it and hold in place with a machine screw as a 'set-screw' to capture the knob in a piece of wood.  Run that through a table saw or chop saw.  It's aluminum so it would cut and might give you a square cut you need.


OR


Similar to the second idea. capture the knob and touch it on a disc sander to square it up.

[kitui]

No, I do not have access to lathe. Thanks anyway