Author Topic: mitre saw station build (in progress)  (Read 1354 times)

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Offline gnlman

  • Posts: 203
mitre saw station build (in progress)
« on: May 03, 2019, 07:12 PM »
Finally getting around to building this..hopefully I use the mitre saw a bit more now....lol
Cabinets are made of 3/4 inch panolam. 24 inches ID. First cabinet with mid panel is going to have 2 vertical pullouts that will hold blue bins for fasteners. The rest will have drawers except for the mitre saw cabinet which will have doors. Still pondering what I'm going to store in drawers so have not decided on depth of all the drawers yet. This was my first attempt at edging with hardwood (maple) as the panolam edges would chip pretty easily. I used 5mm dominos to attach the maple to the edges and finished with varathane. It took me a long time to decide on a fence/stop system. As I have read here, mitre saw fences can be an issue if the wood being cut is warped and can hold it away from the mitre saw fence if not careful. I thought about putting a t track in the top the length of the left top and making a stop so there was no fence in the way, but had already bought the kreg fence stuff a couple of years ago...Decided to mount the fence on t track back to front which allows me to keep the fence back a bit from the mitre saw fence, or move it back even more if I need to slide the left fence on the saw, or all the way back if I need the surface space for other things. There are hoies at the front of the t track that allow enough room to get the t bolts out to remove the fence all together if I want. I used Lee Valley adjustable legs for the cabinets...not sure I'd do that again as trying to level the cabinets was a challenge...this was my first time installing that many cabinets in a row, further complicated by a not so level floor, and some fairly proud 2 x 4's in the wall of my 70's home owner build garage.....but I got there....lol
Still lots to do, and trying to decide whether to try and improve dust collection by adding some sort of shroud behind the saw. It's pretty good now I use a dust cobra for my small tool collection, and it has a lot of suction, but still considering running a line to a shroud from my 2hp bigger collector...just not sure the bigger collector has enough suction to actually be effective.
Thanks to all that posted builds on your mitre saw stations. I've been reading for a long time, and have probably "borrowed" some of everyone's ideas or thoughts!!
Greg






« Last Edit: May 03, 2019, 07:15 PM by gnlman »

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Online Mario Turcot

  • Posts: 951
Re: mitre saw station build (in progress)
« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2019, 06:28 PM »
Nicely done, I love it  [thumbs up]
Mario

Offline ear3

  • Posts: 3885
Re: mitre saw station build (in progress)
« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2019, 05:53 AM »
Excellent work!  And quite a lot of space for storage now.

Finally getting around to building this..hopefully I use the mitre saw a bit more now....lol
Cabinets are made of 3/4 inch panolam. 24 inches ID. First cabinet with mid panel is going to have 2 vertical pullouts that will hold blue bins for fasteners. The rest will have drawers except for the mitre saw cabinet which will have doors. Still pondering what I'm going to store in drawers so have not decided on depth of all the drawers yet. This was my first attempt at edging with hardwood (maple) as the panolam edges would chip pretty easily. I used 5mm dominos to attach the maple to the edges and finished with varathane. It took me a long time to decide on a fence/stop system. As I have read here, mitre saw fences can be an issue if the wood being cut is warped and can hold it away from the mitre saw fence if not careful. I thought about putting a t track in the top the length of the left top and making a stop so there was no fence in the way, but had already bought the kreg fence stuff a couple of years ago...Decided to mount the fence on t track back to front which allows me to keep the fence back a bit from the mitre saw fence, or move it back even more if I need to slide the left fence on the saw, or all the way back if I need the surface space for other things. There are hoies at the front of the t track that allow enough room to get the t bolts out to remove the fence all together if I want. I used Lee Valley adjustable legs for the cabinets...not sure I'd do that again as trying to level the cabinets was a challenge...this was my first time installing that many cabinets in a row, further complicated by a not so level floor, and some fairly proud 2 x 4's in the wall of my 70's home owner build garage.....but I got there....lol
Still lots to do, and trying to decide whether to try and improve dust collection by adding some sort of shroud behind the saw. It's pretty good now I use a dust cobra for my small tool collection, and it has a lot of suction, but still considering running a line to a shroud from my 2hp bigger collector...just not sure the bigger collector has enough suction to actually be effective.
Thanks to all that posted builds on your mitre saw stations. I've been reading for a long time, and have probably "borrowed" some of everyone's ideas or thoughts!!
Greg




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Offline Cheese

  • Posts: 6516
Re: mitre saw station build (in progress)
« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2019, 09:51 AM »
Nice job Greg...lots of room for Systainers.  [big grin]

I've used EZ-Level cabinet levelers. They aren't inexpensive but they work well.

http://www.ez-level.com/HowToOrder.html

How thick is the wood edge banding?

Offline gnlman

  • Posts: 203
Re: mitre saw station build (in progress)
« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2019, 01:25 PM »
@Mario Turcot  Thanks Mario!!

@ear3 Yes just have to finish figuring out what I'm going to put in all those drawers...

@Cheese  Yeeesh...wished I would have know about that levelling system. I did see a couple of videos that used that type of system produced by professional cabinet installers....just assumed they would be very costly for shop use never thought they would be that reasonable. I used the levellers from Lee Valley...about 4 bucks a piece. They work fine, but levelling the cabinets by myself took longer than making the boxes..lol...The other issue with the LV levellers was I was installing on concrete not finished floor or plywood so they did not turn easily with the weight of the box on them. Front levellers were easy to adjust, but the back ones (especially raising) proved difficult. There is a cross cut out on the bottom of the legs to fit a blade screwdriver thru and if you put too much force on them they break..After I broke a couple of them I added some thin grease which helped but also used a little air bag to lift them...doing that made it easier, and used a level with audible alarm so I could hear it was level with my head in the back of the cabinet....lol I will look at those levellers for my next project (systainer cabinet) in the front of my shop. The video the company put out was also very good.

Edge banding is 3/4 inch maple. I bought s4 1x4 and ripped it down in 3/4 inch widths. The maple was a true 3/4 as is the Panolam I used so they matched up quite well. This was  my first attempt at this, and my first time using the Panther blade. I should have spent some more time on the ripped edges, but they seemed pretty smooth...once lined up and glued with domino's I could see the odd gap...very minor, but learned it would be good to sand, or better yet run thru planer or jointer. I also learned about hydraulics with dominos.  I've heard others speak of....I was out of titebond 3 glue so didn't have  alot of open time. I glued the dominos into the maple first, let them set a bit then applied glue to mortises and edge of panolam...by the time I got to the last domino I was cranking pretty hard on bessey clamp, and there is still a bit of a gap at the back corner....
All in all very satisfying project so far, and makes using my saw much easier.

thanks for the encouraging words all! lol
Greg